Very true! There is a lot of working with what you got and upgrading it later 😄

Sorry for the confusion. My English is good when he wants to be. 😅 they are carbureted, but I do use an adjustable pressure fuel return apparatus. that are technically for MPI but as well multipurpose, but it works great for generators and my main engines too. I had All kinds of vapor lock issues and on the generator particulation on the pump until I installed this thing, from that point on never had vapor lock problems again. I don’t know if the link will work right here, but man this thing fixed so many problems amzn.to/3yFTokD

lol on those days, I was new into a relationship and kind of new to that boat so I was pushing some fuel through that baby 😅

Wow, that would be enough even to run the TV and everything right? because when I want to run the air conditioning and TV I turned on the generator.. hopefully a bigger boat soon that I can do all of this 😅

@@Cruisingthesouth The TV definitely. The AC, depends on how much power it uses I'd say on that size of a boat it uses around 200-300W but I might be wrong. If it is then you'll be good running it overnight.

😂😂😂 I think it’s a boater thing lol on the back of our mind, There is always that little voice “where can I fit another solar panel

She is a 330 express cruiser SeaRay

If thats all it is and you trust the diag probably a thousand. But heads dont blow on these lazy v-8's. It could have froze or your getting reversion from the manifolds or lots of other stuff. If it has like 500 hrs on it id probably get a new motor

I agree with mzimm ! Is the diag solid is the question really.. if is freshwater cooled maybe some options open but if the engine is raw water cooled then definitely a crate engine on my opinion

Thank you for watching my friend

There is horror stories of not running your blowers you are so right.. the sticker only calls for it to be ran on anything below cruising speed, but I just run mine all the time, if the engines are on, the blowers are on, I like the idea of the fresh air down there at all times. 😄 thank you for watching bud.

I know right.. thanks bud! I’m actually very happy how it came out and how it looks because even my neighbor had mentioned that it was probably going to look weird, that he doesn’t see boats like mine with solar panels but this solar panel fit just right and I actually love the way it looks. I almost didn’t do it because of his comment 😅

@@Cruisingthesouth I live in Miami, I studied pure electronics when I was in Cuba and still do it here, I have worked in boats like yours so, yes, you did a pretty clean job, I actually prefer 2 panels and always in the very top where nobody can see it, and your anchor light with a light sensor so it will turn on automatically…. But of course that’s up your you. Wish some day shake hands with you brother.

Great idea for the anchor light sensor, now I want to rig up something like that 😄 I live in Fort Lauderdale but I’m always going down to Miami, either down there or up here I’m sure we can link up somehow. Past couple of weeks I passed by coming back from Islamorada on the boat, last weekend, I went up to Hillsboro Inlet and dove some reefs around that area, but I kind of wanna go back to Miami again.

@@Cruisingthesouth I’m the one with the hat

I sub to your channel 👍 love Miami

My pleasure

Thank you for watching bud! Well I would say 80k will buy you something really close to turn key that you will be happy with it but 120k I would say is the sweet spot but one with all the bells and whistles missing even as low as 30k and under.

Hello my friend thank you for watching the video but the first set of butterflies is the automatic choke that opens and closes them so make sure that your choke is working properly. Of course they will only close back up when the engine is fully cold because the choke works as a heat element, when you turn the engine on, 12 V is introduced to the choke warming it up slowly and that triggers the opening effect and when you turn off the engine that will slowly close back up as the heat element cools down, but if your engine is fully cold and and the front butterflies are still open, you need to do a check on your choke assembly, make sure the wires are connected good and a little bit of WD-40 do wonders for these things, and that is assuming that your carburetor has a electric choke, but if not the same thing applies, the mechanical choke is also triggered by heat, I hope this helps. Let me know what you come up with.

@@Cruisingthesouth Tried your recommendation and issue seems to have worked. Can't thank you enough for your advice. Happy boating!!

@@clintperez905 outstanding my friend!! Awesome to hear that

Man, I just had one of those of something driving me crazy, I had the same exact thing that you are describing, only or high RPM the freaking engine flicking like a light switch on and off and I originally thought was my fuel pump so I went and replaced the fuel pump but guess what the problem did not go away just slightly differed, so guess what? I chased my tail for two weeks looking at things Thinking of internal intrusion or something, I couldn’t really figure out what was going on, turned out that the brand new fuel pump that I bought was already bad, brand new fuel pump defective, after chasing my tail for two weeks I put in a new new fuel pump and the problem simply disappeared. Go figure.

😄

Low power creeping up?

Check your exhaust elbows. I had it where inside of the tip of the elbows was blocked off enough because of rust that the engine wouldn’t go past 3100 RPMs because at low rpm the engine kind of pulsates back a little bit ingesting a little bit of water that eventually builds the wall inside of the exhaust elbow tip.

That would be sooo cool 😄 thank you for the comment, my friend

Hey my friend, thank you for the comment. I really appreciate it. If a Mercruiser 4.3 engine stalls when RPMs exceed 1200 and the carburetor has been cleaned, there are a few possible causes to consider, including a fuel pump issue or an ignition coil problem. Here's how to test these components to determine which one might be the issue.. Fuel pump test: To test the fuel pump, you'll need to check for fuel pressure. One way to do this is by using a fuel pressure gauge. Connect the gauge to the fuel rail or fuel filter and turn the key to the "on" position without starting the engine. The fuel pressure should read between 3-6 psi at idle and 6-8 psi at full throttle. If the fuel pressure is low, it could indicate a problem with the fuel pump. Another way to test the fuel pump is by listening for the sound of the pump when you turn the key to the "on" position. You should hear a strong, steady humming sound coming from the pump. If the sound is weak or intermittent, it might indicate a problem with the pump. Ignition coil test: To test the ignition coil, you'll need to check for spark at each cylinder. You can use a spark plug tester to do this. Remove the spark plugs, connect the tester to each plug, and crank the engine. The tester should produce a strong, consistent spark at each cylinder. If the spark is weak or intermittent, it might indicate a problem with the ignition coil. Another way to test the ignition coil is by checking for continuity. You can do this by using a multimeter to test the primary and secondary windings of the coil. The primary winding should have a resistance of 1-2 ohms, while the secondary winding should have a resistance of around 10,000 ohms. If the resistance is outside of these ranges, it might indicate a problem with the coil. Let me know what you find out my friend, also a couple other spots that could cause problems. I’ll give you an example no longer ago one of my engines started to lose power gradually to the point where one engine was way stronger than the other, and then all the sudden I started having high RPM issues, after chasing my tail for a very long time turned out that my exhaust elbows was partially clogged up by the very tip, I didn’t really think that it could clog up like that but it does. Also, a little trick that I use chasing down a fuel problems is a little glass filter that you can add before your fuel pump and after to see if you have air leaks anywhere., Remember that before the fuel pump is a vacuum Side of the pump after the pump is the pressure side of the pump so before the fuel pump issues, you will see bubbles in the line and after the fuel pump you would see fuel dripping Also, I know that this goes without saying because it’s usually the first thing that people will tell you to look for, but make sure that the vent for the fuel tank is not clogged up. Also, the fuel pick up tube inside of the tank are notorious to crack or develop small pinhole leaks or that screen on the very tip of it gets clogged up, I hope this helps at all my friend once again thank you for the question

@@Cruisingthesouth thanks for the tips, i will let u know once i found out the problem.

Hey bud, thanks for the comment, well, for as far as I understand it the only difference for the automotive is that the gases are rerouted to a charcoal chamber or filtration system because of emission regulations where the cruisers the gas is just get sucked up by the carburetor and it spit it out on the exhaust, I think the cars are just different because of emissions, but there could be more to it

What’s up bud!?

Hello my friend! What caused my cylinder intrusion was rust from the inside out. The cooling channel that passes by the exhaust port developed a pinhole, because my engines was raw water cooled before, and that won the battle. Now I have it fresh water cooled

I bet is so much better

@Cruisingthesouth it is and even much better they have their sniper efi 2 that just came that is a better than their first gen one that I have

@@eagle5720 I’m gonna look it to it

Did you ever find out the problem? Mine is now doing the same thing

How so my friend? I’m curious on your point of view, considering that it is a Marine Generator that has been working for 30 years. I wonder what makes you think that he would go south

@@Cruisingthesouth well the most obvious thing is a fuel tank venting down low in the bilge to start with , I would also bet that generator is not ignition protected , so once you add fuel into a bilge and spark things go bang

@@richardkaye2228 oh, OK I get it but that tank was only there for initial installation. The generator is hooked to the main fuel tanks of the boat, that red jug was just so I could get the generator going, but it runs out of the main fuel tanks of the boat now. But thank you for the input anyways my friend, one thing about this generator though is that it has safety shut off’s all over the place, that thing loves shutting itself off if there’s anything even a little off . 😅

@@Cruisingthesouth much safer now then with no fuel tank down below , is that an air cleaner on top some body has added or is that a flash back arrestor to stop spark exiting if engine misfires

@@richardkaye2228 thank you for looking out bud! Yeah, it is carbureted, that on top is the flame arrestor/filter

Best layout, I heard on the matter yet 😄

Probably from the electric water heater if equipt