Awesome! Thank you!

Thank you!

I have never hit my prop hand launching. It's like jumping off a cliff into water, it looks scary but once you jump you realize, "that wasn't bad at all". The plane will fly right out of your hands even if you screw up the throw and aim down towards the ground. YOU GOT IT!!

Awesome Job!

you might double check that CG. always best to be nose heavy with fixed wing

Awesome! Thanks for leaving the positive feedback.

This is valuable info from @technicallyaddicted 🙏🍻especially the part about the support angle because the V2 Scimitar needs supports in a few places. The only thing I can add because I'm not good at 3d printing but good at FPV is to buy a radio with ELRS protocol instead of the Flysky I6X which has terrible range, I have one. But ELRS (Express LRS) is like TBS Crossfire but cheaper. It has INCREDIBLE range. It was tested out to over 100km on a wing. Flysky failsafes after only like 300m. I'd hate to failsafe after printing a plane for a week like me. So the Radiomaster Boxer or Radiomaster Zorro ELRS versions is what you want. If you want really cheap but decent the Jumper T Lite ELRS or Radiomaster Pocket ELRS are also good. No failsafes on these guys at a lower packet rate.

@@derelictfpv do you need ELRS if you’re not flying FPV? Does the i6x really have a max range of only 300m?!? I have my i6x tied to my freewing F22 which can do over 150 mph. You’re making me nervous that I’ll fly beyond my range. Should I get a different radio for my jets? What’s a good radio under $200? I need range, fidelity, and a minimum of 10 channels.

@@derelictfpv I’ve figured out the whole model. I’ll be flying it when weather permits. Lmk if you run into any more issues.

@@Technicallyaddicted Just saw this. Ya that i6x is good for only close range. I used to failsafe all the time and my quad would drop out of the sky. I've failsafed at like 85m only because I went too low and kind of behind a hill. That would never happen with ELRS. It's the main radio protocol now and you just never really have to worry about your radio link. I have a bunch of ELRS radio's. I have the Jumper T Lite ELRS version, Radiomaster Pocket Elrs, Radiomaster Zorro Elrs and a TBS Mambo with an ELRS module in the back. TBS Crossfire is just slightly older than ELRS but ELRS was reverse engineered off of Crossfire and is open source so it hurt Crossfire a lot. If I was getting a radio for planes now I would buy a Radiomaster Boxer. It's a full size radio but not massive. If you like gamepad style radio's then the Radiomaster Zorro ELRS is good. That's what I use for my planes. But the battery is small so you need to piggyback a battery to it. So in a nutshell, the radiomaster Boxer is a super popular radio these days with 1000mw ELRS built in. The Zorro has 250mw. The Radiomaster Pocket has 250mw. And the Jumper T lite has 100mw. Go with the Boxer.

@@Technicallyaddicted Ya Radiomaster and ELRS are the standard now for Radios and radio Protocol. ELRS is open source so you can use receivers from any manufacturer. There should be like 16 channels available. The Radiomaster Boxer ELRS has enough switches and has trim switches I'm pretty sure. Good for planes and quads. Make sure to get the ELRS version.

It's not too hard once you do it but my Twin Dolphin is still my best version of it. I have ordered another Dolphin (kit) and will be doing the twin setup again but with 2306 motors this time and a upgraded nacelle. Video coming soon.

I plan on doing a vtol with my Swordfish and this dolphin was the test for it.

This was printed with PLA+ NOT Light Weight PLA. Also, I disagree with it being "significantly more difficult than YT leads you to believe". I only had my 3d printer for 3 months before i printed this plane. It printed perfectly first try. I did however follow the instructions laid out by the designer. People are in a hurry these days and try to skip steps, you just got to follow the steps. My advice, DON"T USE LWPLA!

@@JeffDoesThis you just justified what I said lmao. Did you miss the part where I followed the instructions precisely and even went through a string test? There isn’t a mainline YT 3D channel that I have not already consulted.

@@Technicallyaddicted What problems are you having? I'm printing this exact plane and following Jeff and Olivers directions and using PLA+. So far things are turning out alright. And I'm definitely not great at 3d printing.

@@derelictfpv stringing and blistering mainly. All of this is with overture airpla which is prefoamed(I just learned that there is a stark difference between prefoamed and non prefoamed LWPla). I’ve been told it’s impossible to eliminate stringing with LWpla. I’m also getting blistering which I’ve been told is a zhop problem, but I have Zhop and surface mode off. I’ve tried optimizing the tool path, changing every setting related to retraction, I’ve run every print test imaginable, and now I think my nozzle is leaking because I’m getting this awful black liquid(I’m assuming it’s the byproduct of the foaming action. Despite being prefoamed, it still foams a little bit more). I switched to Pla+ and haven’t had any problems at all. There’s some weird Z seam artifacts but that’s not a big deal, I just attack it with a sander. I’m tempted to print this exact plane with the sunlu Pla+ I have, and also try to get it in LWPla for comparison sake. I’ve got about 6 months of experience with 3D printing and I wouldn’t call myself an expert, but I’m becoming increasingly confident in my abilities. I thank you for taking the time to even ask this. I’m always willing to help and learn and I appreciate people like you. Printer: flsun v400 klipper Filament sunlu Pla+\overture airPla Avg setting: 190nozzle, 60bed, minimal retraction, no surface mode, no clipping, no infill, walls as PDF requests. Printing LWpla exactly as eclipson says to does not provide a sufficient result, and I believe that due to the difference between prefoamed and not LWPla. Using my own custom settings using the eclipson pdf as a reference with basic Pla+ has made functional aircraft parts and successful prints, although they are kinda heavy. As you said earlier, I may just abandon LWPla altogether.

Ive been printing for a few years but almost exclusively TPU. It sounds like you know way more than I do about 3d printing. I calibrated my esteps with PLA but I didnt realize my flow was too much. So I ended up compensating by lowering my extruder value. Eventually I got it printing clean to print this plane. But I need to go back and set my flow to 100 and try it with my proper estep calibration. Im just afraid to change anything because its printing pretty nicely right now.

Thanks for the kind words.

No I still use a throw over pump. That would be quite a bit of money just to save a little bit of time

No problem 👍

Yes, I add a graphic overlay I made in Adobe Illustrator to cover up the DJI "?"'. Sorry but the font I use is top secret. It is something that I found to set my videos apart from the rest of the ever growing FPV KZfaqrs.

Thank you very much.

Thank you! I'm trying!