take a look at the Hazmat Solid and Scorpion Strike video with the chart and try to pick balls that are pretty far from one another for diversity!

@@BowlingBuckosh alright thank you. I’m considering getting the arctic vibe + hammer effect

oh what we could accomplish with more free time!

In that situation it depends on what the Mezmerize is doing. If it is hitting flat because it is starting to roll forward, not be continuous enough, the Hazmat solid may be a good option since it is symmetric and will have more continuation. If the Mezmerize is starting to hook too early, that's when the Vaporize would come in.

Lots of situations that all require their own assessment, but I see the Hazmat Solid as more of a compliment, and Vaporize as more of a ball down. I see the Hazmat doing well on fresh conditions that hook more than Mesmerize is useful on. If you want to blend over-under and have more moderate launch angles, that's the go-to. Vaporize will be better from steeper launch angles and early transition of longer patterns.

@@andrewweltlich9065 thanks, that’s helpful info

@@BowlingBuckosh thanks for the info. what does it mean if a ball is a compliment?

@@surfboardshack3327 might be in play on similar lane conditions but has a much different motion shape to do something different when the other ball is not the right shape.

Unfortunately no, but you can get a relative feel by looking at the charts across my recent videos

@BowlingBuckosh I respect that as I doubt you guys can do that. But, also nice job on getting me to come back for more videos.

I love my original Brunswick Infinity and my Perfect Mindset. My Rhino red, black, and gold is cool, too. I have a solid Mindset waiting to be drilled. I definitely want to eventually get the Intense Mindset, Mesmerize, Vaporize, and Beyond Infinity. I need to get a Track Archetype Hybrid for my waiting to be drilled solid and Hammer Effect first, though. Possibly the Track Stealth series, too. This is getting to be a very expensive addiction. 😂

@@GrumpaBaggins try to make purchases based on shapes you do not have or want to replace. you don't need every new ball, even if it's tempting!

@@BowlingBuckosh very good point! I'll have to remind myself of that.

I think that's a nice step up! I would go with the new black/gold Messenger (which I think is what you are saying). There was an older blue/red pearl as well, but there is a better cover on this new one!

Mesmerize is both earlier reading and more overall hook. Motion shapes are similar, but Mezmerize is just more of it!

In terms of oil volume and strength I would put Envy Tour between Hazmat Solid and Scorpion Low Flare. I would put the red/black Raw just barely left of the new pearl, at the same height. An Axe is effectivity a spare ball with just a slight amount of hook potential.

@@BowlingBuckosh thank you I appreciate it

​@BowlingBuckosh scared me not putting the Envy Tour on there. Great video can't wait to see the rest you're always a great help keep up the good work

hey there! the manufactured pin-CG distance has little to no effect on the ball performance. This is not to be confused with the Pin-PAP distance, which would be measured by your pro shop when he drills the ball. Either ball should work just fine for either of you!

@@BowlingBuckosh that's a relief! Thank you for your reply.

😅

Love the core and physics talk. You need to get on Sweep the rack and nerd out with those guys. Would love to see a video from you on MB placement.. Mb angle, and an explanation on how the MB placement affects ball roll and reaction. Still think a lot of PSOs have no idea how to get the most out of asymmetrical balls or not turn them into turds.

yea, so one of the weaknesses of shiny finishes is that they can blow past the breakpoint without slowing down enough to change direction in the late midlane. With covers that have HK, and even moreso with covers that have the Cohesion additive, we are finding the balls are slowing down much more predictably and securely in the midlane, and offer predictable midlane traction. hope that helps.

@@BowlingBuckosh got it. Thanks for the explanation

This is true to some extent. This spreadsheet is set up for Symmetricals, so the drilling angle (1st angle) will automatically point the CG toward the CoG. Just draw your dual angles like normal. The 1st angle will be from CG, up to DOT/Pin, and over to PAP, as normal. There is no need to know where the CoG is located ahead of time. The calculated angles do that for you. IF you are drilling an Asym, you can ignore the 1st angle output and choose your own for the PSA/MB location. The output pin-PAP distance and VAL angle will be the same as the spreadsheet! Feel free to reach out here or message Bowling Buckosh on Facebook with any other questions.

@@BowlingBuckosh oh ok I see. So if I’m understanding correctly, we rotate the ball so the center of grip (CoG) falls on the line through the Pin/DOT to the center of gravity (CG)? And for an asym, we could just use the mass bias instead of the CG as normal for drawing the first line and your CoG will fall on that line (or we could move the MB as we wish)? Please correct me if I’m wrong, but that does make sense to me. I’m not a driller and I’m fairly new to the concept of layouts, but it’s super interesting to me! Thank you for your patience and help.

That's pretty much it! We made a choice on our end that we wanted the CG mark on the line from the pin(DOT) through the grip center (CoG) for syms for core design purposes. It's not required but it's recommended, and it's easy since we calculate it for you. For asyms, you are correct, if you use the calculated drilling angle, the MB will be in line with the pin and the CoG, but that is often a long first angle, so that would be the max first angle depending on the bowler's PAP. For a normal layout range, we recommend picking your own first angle, which will often be less. That's just on asyms. We will have more info for Asyms in the future.

Tough call. They are close. I think at 3k surface the wicked has the potential to read earlier, but the Effect has the potential to cover more dowlane. The differences are subtle.

i could see the Strike in place of the EvT Pearl as a mid-diff option as well. I like 3 sym 3 asym for matched players, but a spare ball really makes it a 5 ball arsenal. 😊

I see this as more midlane secure and a little rounder than theorem. theorem is a little naturally cleaner with more backend. categorically they are similar. 20mph 500+ is getting after it!

Theorem is a small step up, with a sharper downlane motion. with a similar pin height, i think there is enough room for both. you can always separate them more with surfaces.

not doing a combined chart, but the charts are relative to one another to give you a good idea of how they compare

Only one year of releases on this chart.

​@@BowlingBuckoshStill, that's my benchmark and still something that plenty of people are likely still purchasing

Definitely an option! Since NU is so early and smooth, it's likely that you'd take a step in with reactive when you change. If the shot has a lot in the middle you might even consider balling up when you step in.

not sure the exact question, you threw a lot of info out there at once. the original Web black/purple/blue is a sanded hybrid from 2018. it will be much much rounder with slightly less overall hook than the shiny widow 2.0 hybrid with HK-22. Mesmerize is HK-22 with the Cohesion additive from the Hammer Effect. It's a sanded solid that will be much earlier and stronger overall than the Atlas Pearl. The Atlas pearl will not have Cohesion, and is much longer and sharper.

This is it

Yea, since (and including) the last Bowl Expo 2023. I would place the Envy Tour directly between the Hazmat Solid and the Low Flare on the chart, but there are differences in shape since the EvT has asymmetry.

if there were more space between balls i would place it in the narrow gap between the Effect and the Hazmat (o.g. hybrid). The Effect is stronger in the late-midlane than Widow 2.0 Hyb, but Widow 2.0 Hyb has more backend that Hazmat hybrid.

@@BowlingBuckoshawesome thank you! Was thinking about picking up the sting but wanted to make sure it fit in well with what I had

no. since you are not drilling through the nugget, the drilled numbers scale like normal. the nugget only lowers the RGs of the undrilled ball relative to the same core that does not have a nugget prior to drilling.

@@BowlingBuckosh got ya I just thought maybe it would lower the RG a little cause I’m removing weight from the outside but it definitely makes sense it would change them like normal.

without knowing your tilt, rotation or PAP, it's a bit difficult to advise. sounds like it's either a layout mismatch or a ball strength mismatch. if you are using a particularly strong core or cover, you need something longer, and if you are using a ball on the weaker side, the reverse is probably true. if multiple balls are leaving corners, then i would say your layouts are an issue.

knowing nothing about your game or your house shot, it's very difficult to advise. for higher pattern volumes, higher speeds or lower rev rates, i like the Hitter. For more friction, lower speed bowlers, or higher rev rates i would say something like the Breakaway.

5" pin-PAP should be sufficient; without your PAP i don't know how far from the grip center (CoG) the pin is with a 30 VAL angle. the pin-CoG distance is the critical distance to control flare potential for no-thumb bowlers. 30 VAL is usually a medium-high pin-CoG number, but it varies PAP to PAP. we recommend the range of 1.5" (absolute weakest) to 5.5" (absolute strongest) pin-CoG distances.

My Pap is 6” straight over when I’m up the back, and 5.5” over by 1/2” up when I get around it. I tend to prefer around 4-5” COG distances. 5x4x5 is my favorite 2LS layout for reactive solids.

then 30 is a good VAL approximator for 4.5" 👍. on syms i would go with a long drill angle like 85 to get the CG in line with the CoG for our designs.

if you are leaving it at box finish, try Hammer Clear Magic foam and a microfiber towel. as soon as you're done bowling, pump it onto the ball surface, lighty wipe to spread it evenly, let it sit for an extra 30 seconds to work, then scrub the dirt and cleaner off. If you sanded the surface, then my favorite product is PowerHouse Clean N Dull, same instructions.

NU cover has some pearl in it but it is NOT a standard reactive base. it's built on a completely different chemistry platform.

your best bet is to be engaged with your local pro shop and local staffers. there are very few staff positions available at a regional/national level.

Radical doesn’t do a lot of staff positions from what I understand. They talk about it on the weekly podcast occasionally.

Max Bias is a really strong candidate for this. Any of the stronger sanded asyms such as Hitter or og Outer Limits would also be ok depending on the strength you are looking for.

you can drill Rattler NU stronger and more use surface for a step up if you choose!

@@BowlingBuckosh very tempting 😂

cool, keep us posted about how it goes!

@@BowlingBuckosh @BowlingBuckosh I ended up going with a more control layout. 5" pin to pap, 2" pin to COG (per the Troublemaker layout tool), which was 100x5x64. Tried it out today, and did well with it. Had to play straighter that expected, mostly due to the house shot being wrecked by open play. Once I got outside enough to find a little friction, the ball picked up earlier than my Xray and Pathogen Plague Solid urethane. The Xray was useless on the carry down. The Rattler NU was a few feet earlier, and what I would call aggressively smooth than the PPSU.... meaning it doesn't make as fast of a move, but covers more boards than you would expect from how smooth it comes off the spot. Can't wait to try it on the actual fresh league shot. I expect it'll let me play about 5 boards deeper than my PPSU... so I can switch to the NU when that ball gets into flat 7 territory. If I were to give layout advice, I'd say use the Troublemaker layout tool, and treat the NU like a reactive ball. It took well to a weaker layout, when a normal urethane would've puked with the layout I used. No need to slap the standard strong urethane layout on the NU to get it to react correctly. Use the layout to fine tune the reaction like you would on a reactive ball.

@@deadpolymers3416 for most players i would recommend a neutral-to-strong pin-CoG for NU covers, but i'm glad this motion is working for you. i know your rev rate and lack of oil volume are a unique situation.

@@BowlingBuckosh 2 weeks of league (throwing it 5 of 6 games), as well as maybe 5 or 6 full games of practice and I'm loving the ball reaction so far. The 5x2 layout I used was a bit too smooth out of the box, but as it lane shines it's getting better and better. Like NU Blue, the Rattle NU with lane shine is a bit more clean and a little stronger off the back end. If I drilled it again, I might go with a shorter pin to pap, to get more flare out of it, but I really like the shorter Pin to COG. This is a must have ball for those high rev bowlers who want a smoother alternative to reactive balls.

the original Crypto (solid) or the Boom? Break Away will be a nice step down from the original Crypto with more length but a familiar motion shape. Boom is longer and stronger downlane than Break Away.

Sweet I can't wait to get it ordered

a nice little bump up in strength from the entry level Rhino line.

Fireball similar, but stronger than a Tundra Fire, and Arctic Vibe is a bit earlier and rounder than both. If Tundra Fire is too much, I would look to a Nu Blue Hammer. You can smooth the box surface to help give it a bit more length.

@@BowlingBuckosh excellent idea! Thank you!!

12.5mph at the pins is still medium-slow off your hand, so you are definitely rev dominant. pin-down is a good option for you for a smooth motion front-to-back. we RARELY recommend pin-down syms, but your style would be an exception. with your high rev rate you should get a controlled benchmark motion, (or one step more controlled than benchmark), on fairly fresh medium conditions.

@@BowlingBuckosh you described my Squatch Solid precisely. It's pin down. I'm going from 16 lbs to 14 lbs (age). I drilled my first 14 lb ball this past weekend. Widow 3.0, 70x 5x 30. I had to lane shine it out to keep it on the right side. I beleive these modern covers are too strong for me. My selections will have to be lower differential, or pin down to add extra feet in length.

a full 9 pts more diff in those Raw cores - a great value!

no issues on my end. try going to the original trouble maker landing page and scrolling to the bottom. if you are still having issues let me know. dv8bowling.com/products/balls/retired/trouble-maker

@@BowlingBuckosh got it! Thanks!