@richardhand2685 thank you for sharing! I'll definitely check them out and see about ordering a pair. Much appreciated!

Links are in the description.

@jasonsteiner8445 P0451 is your fuel tank pressure sensor. It's possible that it was damaged or unseated from the grommet during the fuel pump replacement, not plugged back in, or it has just failed due to age. The tank will likely need to be dropped to inspect it. If the CEL came on immediately after getting your truck back, I'd call the shop and see if they'll work with you on fixing it.

It's a ranch rig, man...every single one of them are busted. 🤣

@@AllThingsMech Yup sos my dads, that’s why I was watching this video lol

Lift pump $130

@@shovel5180 nope. No juice to the shut off solenoid.

1) This was over 3 years ago when a 23/32" sheet of plywood was $90 at Home Depot. I used what I had lying around. 2) Welcome to the world of cattle ranching, where ranchers don't care about doing the job perfectly - they just want the job done. "It's good enough for who it's for." 3) The trailer is still doing fine. Thanks for watching!

It's possible. I've found that these trucks are pretty sensitive to fuel flow rate - they'll run ok with a slight restriction, but will throw a code pretty easily. It's possible that you have a partially clogged pump sock in the tank; that would make sense if it only gets angry with you when you're pulling the trailer and are constantly needing higher flow rates to keep up with engine load. Are you noticing drivability issues/extended cranking times, or is it just throwing the code? It's also possible that it could have something to do with the active grille shutters if your truck has them...why those stupid things are on the same circuit as the fuel pump is a total mystery to me, but they are. Makes diagnosis a real pain. If you don't have a bidirectional scan tool that can check all of those components, I'd just take it to a shop for a diagnosis. It's pretty easy to get stuck firing the parts cannon at these things without finding the actual problem - it even took my dealership several attempts.

Cranking time when the light is on is longer then when the light is off. Drivability has no issue even when the light is on only issue with the light is on once I get around a 1/4 tank it wants to sputter and die when the light is on. I just got the truck a few weeks ago and the car fax shows that 2 fuel pumps have already been put in the truck over the last year. Could it be a evap leak that could cause any problems with the fuel demand?

They asked me for a receipt, I provided my Amazon order info as proof of purchase. Lady on the phone straight up told me that they wouldn't honor the warranty because amazon wasn't an authorized distributor. Bear in mind this was several years ago. I've heard from multiple people that they may have changed their policy since then.

They asked for a receipt? I don't even have receipts for tools I buy from home Depot lol

@TheTuneAce Home Depot wasn't involved at all here since I bought the tool on Amazon. I was talking directly to the Milwaukee CS rep on the phone.

Ha, I guess it's an easier mistake to make than I thought! If the Ford guys can screw it up in technical documents, then I guess I don't feel quite so bad. 😂

Good timing on this comment, haha. I actually just changed the coolant filter for the first time since the install and initial swap (I changed the smaller filter out after about two weeks just to let it catch any junk that may have been in the coolant, so the bigger filter I just changed had been on there for about 2 1/2 years). Zero issues - the valves worked perfectly, no leaks anywhere, lines are in great shape, coolant still looks brand new. Two thumbs up!

@AllThingsMech sweet. I have a small Crack on my overflow tank and a little play in my water pump, so I wanted to do as much as possible the first time. Any other recommendations 🤔 and how did you settle on a filter bypass pressure

Not much additional to add, sounds like you've got it covered if you're replacing the pump and the overflow tank. You may want to flush the rad while you're at it depending on age/mileage and how much gunk there is in the coolant, but that's about it. I can't take credit for the filter choice, I just took the internet's recommendation and ran with it, lol. These are coolant specific filters though, so there's no bypass or anti-drainback diaphragm or anything like that - just a straight in and out design to maximize flow and help avoid pressure spikes. Once the install was complete and the engine was up to temp, I made sure to check that the hoses on both the input and output sides were hot just to verify that I had good flow and no obstructions, and it was fine. It's been a solid setup ever since. I will say that it looks like I've got a crack developing near one of the bolt holes I drilled to mount the filter, but that was probably because of the rough roads out at the ranch beating that thin sheet metal to death. Now that I'm living near pavement again it hasn't gotten any worse, so I'll probably let it ride for now...even though I should probably stop-drill the crack and weld it up. 😂 Good luck, give me a holler if you have any other questions.

@AllThingsMech so I've figured out what I'm gonna do... the upper radiator hose gets an inline coolant filter with the clear housing, and the lower radiator hose gets the filter to collect everything and to not be as hot at the inlet side. With gravity working for the filter but against changing it, the shut-off valves will come in handy. Thanks, dude. I'll even try to record it as my first youtube video for people to critique and advise.

Not if there isn't any damage to it. If it's just an over-lubrication issue, this fix is free. There's no need to spend money on parts if it isn't required.

It's a pretty forgiving system. We used Chevron THF1000 since we had it on hand for all of our other equipment, but any universal tractor hydraulic fluid should work just fine.

Great question. I don't own a Snap On ratchet so I can't speak for how they are made; all I know is what the service information from Milwaukee says, and it shows no lubrication points in the head of this model. My guess (and this is total speculation) is that Snap On uses a different type of friction mechanism that exerts more drag on the pawl, which allows it to still function properly when packed full of grease. I'd love to get my hands on one to tear it down and look at the differences, but that's an investment I won't make any time soon since I'm not turning wrenches full time anymore.

No worries, always happy to answer questions. In most cases the code will clear itself out after 2 or 3 drive cycles as long as the problem has been fixed and the computer isn't detecting that same issue anymore. However, it's always faster with a scan tool, and it also helps you see if you have multiple codes. If thats the case, even if you fix one problem, the light still wont go out and you could end up chasing your tail trying to figure out what's really going on (been there, done that 😆). Even a cheap $30 unit off of Amazon is handy to have around just so you can pull your own codes and clear out CELs, so I highly recommend them to anyone, even the home shop folks.