@@KenKlassen-q9u if you’re saying the pedal hole in the crankarm was stripped (some cranks can strip too), then I would guess that that pedal came loose, wobbled in its hole under the force of pedaling and stripped the threads Ken.

I'm happy to hear it solved the problem Samuel, thanks a lot for watching, letting me know and the great comment, appreciate it 🙏

Thanks a lot for watching and the great comment Michael, appreciate it!

I'm happy to hear that my tip helped you find and fix the noise solidsneakie, thanks for watching and letting me know!

Thanks for watching and the great comment Opala, appreciate it and I agree with you.

Ive got some spoke for you to repair if you find it easy jahahha

I'm so happy the toolkit brought back such happy memories Scott, those were great time in the bike shop for me too, both throughout the 70s and 80s. Thanks a lot for watching and the awesome comment.

Thanks for watching and commenting Scott - it can definitely be messy 😊- I still have tubulars on my road race bike: awesome ride and significantly lighter than tubeless too!

@@JimLangley1 Jim, Thanks for sharing the update on tubeless tires. The tech keeps getting better. Who knows? I may have to try them at some point.😉 Just curious. Can you suggest a good source for Campy small parts? I need to service my Ergopower levers this winter. I am anticipating needing to replace the return springs and possibly other small parts. I have done the service work before. It is an easy job if you take the time to do it the right way. Going to source my parts and plan out the job this fall. Happy riding. Scott

@@Scott-ph2yk you're welcome Scott. I think these guys might have the parts you need - you can call them too and a real person usually pick up the phone: www.universalcycles.com/search.php?q=Campagnolo+ergopower

@@jamesgreen2858 my pleasure James, thanks for watching and commenting!

@@andrewford9974 great job Andrew! Thanks for letting me know. Enjoy that custom wheel!!

@@jackrenders8937 if the chain was really worn out it could definitely be worn cassette cogs causing the skipping. The worn teeth don’t mesh with the new chain so it rides up and skips over the teeth. Usually it’s only the worn out cogs that skip. But to fix it you would replace the whole cassette. If the new chain skips on every gear, cog, then it might be a stiff link in the chain causing it, but that’s what I explained in the video so you probably already checked for that. Hope this helps.

@@JimLangley1 I will see if it skips at every gear or just a few, Thanks. If that is the issue I will just get entirely new rear wheel assembly, since my rear wheel is more on ellipse shape than round lol. I think and my derailler hanger is slightly bent aswell. Geuss thats what happens when I never did any mantiance on it, poor thing has been abused.

@@jackrenders8937 that’s a good plan Jack, a little TLC and you’ll enjoy that bike for a long time to come!🚴

@@bronoueharaaaa my pleasure bronoueharaaaa - thanks for watching and commenting!

@@OldTaima thanks for watching and the interesting idea OldTaima. But the length of the spoke is determined by the distance between the hub and rim hole so a broken spoke will be too short to reach. Now you could try bending it around spokes closer to the rim hole but tensioning it to true the wheel might prove problematic. And you’d need to secure it so that it wouldn’t move.

@@koolfy thanks very much koolfy, appreciate it!!

@@MrFrateTrane you’re very welcome MrFrateTrane, glad to hear it fixed your creak!

Thanks for watching and the question Sun! This noise can happen on smooth (not threaded w/a nut) Presta valves that are slightly smaller diameter than the valve hole in the rim. When I notice this situation I tape the valve. You could use heat shrink tubing too. Hope this is helpful and thanks again!

@@ga__briel thanks for the great tip Gabriel! Here are those cleats if anyone’s looking: amzn.to/4cSHLG3

@@mario.221 I know you’re joking but just so no one gets the wrong idea - that high pressure could blow off tires and put someone in the hospital - so don’t even try it.

The information you give is excellent. Nice simple advice. Nothing too complicated.

@@longdongplatin2231 thanks for watching and the question. It’s actually critical to get that spoke in the correct hole. If you do it exactly as explained in the video you’ll get it right. You just (flip the spoke over) to orient the spoke heads-in or heads-out in the hole to deal with the hub hole depression i.e. countersunk holes. I hope this helps and happy wheel building!

@@monkmchorning thanks for watching and the tip monk, appreciate it. That tip’s actually in my other video about wheel noises that I link to in my pinned comment at the top here too. Thanks again!

@@jc10747 yes that’s true Jason and I explain the issue of long bolts in the video. You can shorten the bolts (cut or file them) or buy ones the right length. They’re usually 5mm bolts. You can buy them online, at bike shops and good hardware stores. If the cleats require special bolts, the pedal maker should sell different lengths too. Hope this helps.

@@UKBROOKLYN thanks for sharing a fix for pedal noises, appreciate it!

@@BufordDuckworth thanks for watching and commenting- yes, that’s a good one - things in the seatbag often hit the seatpost making noise and shoes can brush the crankarms making noise and other simple things too. But Phil’s exaggerating - bottom brackets can definitely make noise especially press fit ones. Thanks!!

@@bern6108 thanks so much Bern! Appreciate it ❤️🙏

@@theflubbybear thanks for watching and commenting with how you like dial indicators bear. Some people like them some people feel they make the job harder. But I’m happy they work so well for you!

@@ianhill4585 thanks for watching and the excellent question ian. The wheel noises in this video are nuisances more than dangers but a click or tick or creak etc from a bike could be a frame about to break so you always want to try to figure out if it’s just an annoying noise or something serious about to fail. Thanks for the great question!!

@@JimLangley1 And thanks for the great advice you wrote back with Jim.

@@PancakeManOFC thanks for watching and the great comment. If you have a bike with gears you can usually get the chain back on by very gently pedaling on flat ground and gently shifting the front derailleur as you pedal. The chain will usually go right back on - no need to even stop. But if your chain breaks it won’t go back on until you put it back together again because it’s broken and not a loop anymore. For that you need a chain tool to fix the chain. Thanks again!

@@JimLangley1 ahhh ok ok .I will definitely use that❤️ tysm❤️keep up the great work❤️

Thanks for watching and letting me know it worked, appreciate it.

You’re welcome MrPatto, thanks for watching and letting me know it worked!

Thanks for watching and the question Michael. There’s a pinned comment right at the top here with a link to my video on other noises from wheels to check for other problems. But clicking ticking from the spoke crosses is either dry rubbing spokes or spokes that need to be slightly tightened. Hope this helps and thanks again.

@@JimLangley1 I'm bringing them in to have tension checked. I wish I had the equipment

@@michaelviglianco6121 ​​⁠that’s a good idea Michael, that way you’ll know they’re good to go for the long haul.

@JimLangley1 Tensions were all good. The mechanic lubed the crosses and had some recommendations of things to clean and check though I'm almost certain it was spokes pinging. Good to know the tension is all good. On a related note, I would much prefer brass nipples but I got these at a great price almost new and they came with alloy nipples that dt swiss provides with their rims that use nipple washers. I've seen your video about applying Tri Flow to nipple / eyelet interfaces. Would it be worth doing the same to inhibit any possible corrosion to my alloy nipples? What about Boeshield vs the Tri Flow? I have both on hand.

@@michaelviglianco6121 glad the tensions were good. Spoke pinging is a really unique sound usually heard most when climbing seated, a recurring noise almost like spokes are just brushing the rear derailleur. Lubing should fix it until the lube dries up. On aluminum nipples, if they’re going to corrode it usually happens due to moisture or salt (ocean air / salted roads in winter / sweat). Some believe sealants cause corrosion but I believe it’s the water in the sealant. The nipples likely had some lube on them when the wheel was built. It can’t hurt to add some right between the nipples and rim and both Tri-Flow and Boeshield will work. Just be sure to clean off any excess so it doesn’t travel where you don’t want it and attract grit and grime. Corrosion looks like white powder on aluminum. With any luck yours will stay the way they looked when new. Hope this is helpful. Thanks for the great comments!!

Thanks for watching and the question conner. The pedals are attached to the crankarms. There are a few different types of crankarms. Each type is removed a different way. Can you tell me what brand and model of bike you’re working on? With that info I should be able to look at your bike to learn what type crank you have.

Thanks for watching and sharing your tip Ron, appreciate it!