excellent. Thankyou!

I have been using this printer for almost four years since 2020. I printed a lot of miniatures but it's time to replace it with something newer.

Cones may not neccessarily give you the best detail, especially with some oddball resins (flexible, ultra durable...). It's just a measure of tensile strength of the resin - overexposed resin will have more tensile strength and will let the "fail" cones print. But so will a correctly exposed abnormally durable resin. I thought there was some gap between the fail cones and top that only fills when overexposed, but there isn't so it's just tensile strength.

My worry is the tilt motor, how long will it last? Is there a option to turn the tilt off if the motor fails?

Use a centrifuge

I haven't been watching you for a while, but due to a customer of mine needing some help and advice about castable resin, I need to get up speed with these things. So, I return to the man who can! (Thats you BTW VOG.)

metal temp was low, it was setting before it left the crucible

Note that the marketing hype claims "Optimal" temperatures of 25 degrees, and not a necessary temperature. It may very well work well enough at lower temperatures. (I'd like to see you do a print at your "room temperature".

Always love your reviews Vog, an Aussie product finally means no rediculous shipping costs for me finally but the price.. The burnaway product page is on their site under OUR RESINS menu -> Industrial Resins -> BurnAway Resin. You can see it at 3:12 as you leave the menu The 3d printer profiles are on their site under the LEARN menu -> Support -> 3D printer settings. You can see it at 3:18 as you open the LEARN menu. Honestly a pretty badly designed navigation system, the links themselves are not very obvious.

I use monocure Resins, I order them in from NSW takes 2 to 3 days from order to delivery to my Address in New Zealand. If I ordered the same product in new Zealand it can take up to a week to arrive.

Nice job! If I can find it I’m gonna give this a try. Thx!

Fecking fantastic Geoff! I have been on the Monocure3D mailing list for years, but I haven't been 3D printing anything during that time. Thanks to your review, I have ordered some of the Burnaway castable resin, as well as some of their Monocure3D Rapid TUFF Resin. I'm just about ready to get printing and casting again, so your timing is impeccable as always mate! Unfortunately, resins are somewhat expensive for the amateur hobbyist, who isn't going to sell the final product and therefore recoup the cost. This makes your reviews invaluable to a HUGE market, to help find what works, and to avoid wasting $$$. Also good to see an Aussie company stick it's 'head' up and put it's products to an unbiased and honest test. Plus, at the time of writing this, they do have the basic settings for my printer! Yay!

Very nice

Dear, dear, Geoff, may I suggest that perhaps adding vent sprues at the “east” and “west” locations of the medallion (imagining a compass face on it) would allow both gases and bronze to flow more easily, the porosity of the mold notwithstanding? But as usual, good stuff.

This is awesome. It might be me but I've had troubles getting casting resin in Oz. Definitely be giving this a shot

yeah from my experience monocure has really good resins at reasonable prices even for their more esoteric material property resins. As last I checked they where the only people selling a lower durometer flexible resin for not "contact for pricing".

I think what they are refering to is the STP (Standard Temperature and Pressure) which in chemistry is fixed at 25°C / 1013,25mbar. This at least in chemistry is often considered "Room Temperature" and "Room Pressure" (1atm)

I'm so glad to see you're making videos again. Thank you for more great info

Is there a fan less or electricity free version of this?

It is winter atm, and 25c is being hit during the day atm here in Australia :p

It was interesting to watch and see what this hobby has to offer. Thanks for sharing VogMan.

Thanks for the videos. Going to be jumping into the hobby soon to try casting some custom miniatures! As soon as I can figure out how to get the 800lb Craigslist kiln to my house...

I knew how all those other 3d printers work, ty for explaining this type!!!!

Which sites are good to print miniatures and diarama accessories very new to this 3d printing

Great videosir, Wich one is best resin printer? In current market with all latest features andof at good price?

I think it's got a good concept, but I think it's very limited by its price and timing. In today's resin market, for $2k you get a lot. I just preordered an ultra 4 for $450 w/heater. I could buy a new printer every 2-3 years at least twice more, getting some new technological improvements each time. And I see a lot of potential let down with WHAT you can actually upgrade. If tilting technology is actually that big of a deal, that's going to be hard and expensive to add to this printer. "AI" is being added to current printers, we have auto bed levelling and 'error detection'. The M7 Pro with its resin heating pump is a really great idea, and is better than chamber heating. I'm not knocking the team because I think this IS a great concept. I do unfortunately think they're 5/7 years late for most general users. In a world where Bambu brought FDM to novice users with their 'plug and play' we're getting closer to that with SLA, and this is a step backwards in that regard, made solely for those who either like to tinker, or...like to tinker. That's just my .02. As always I love your content VOG, you remain the single best source of resin printers, and I absolutely await your review on this when that time comes.

2:15 its ok on the back. Over all you need space for tilt case.

Great video. I'd love to see how this printer makes car trim parts. Every example I see is figures or props. I want one to make car interior parts

for my purpose and situation, the tilting tray really has to make a difference, otherwise the regular Saturn 3 is better (for me)

Great review, thank you! Which would you say is your favorite 14k printer?

Wowowowowowowowow! This foil upgrade for W&C so genius! :O Ill make it! So sad, but phrozen resin very expensive...

That was GREAT guide for me! I have alot of troubles with autosupporting. And now, I got nice exp. Many thx! :D

When I use speed mode it comes out with unwanted seam lines, want a good print then go for the low speed.

Thank you.

Thousand bucks? Really?

I had a Formlabs Form 1+. It was similar in that it utilized a tilt feature on the resin tray to “peel” the print from the bedplate. Over time, I noticed the constant peel to one side would throw off the bedplate leveling. In addition, sometimes, the tilt wasn’t “deep” enough to execute the peel. Meaning, the bedplate would twist and deflect over the entire resin tray tilt cycle. It would never actually peel and release. This would always result in failed prints. Do you anticipate these issues with the Saturn 4 Ultra?

Very interesting. Yeah. I have built a charcoal foundry, but I think a gas foundry is the way forward for me.

The "ridiculously short hose" is meant to be fully extended...

Could you gold plate a watch body for me? Since my dad passed away I have wanted to restore his watch, it’s a simple SEIKO watch. I have it all polished and ready to go. Sadly here in Switzerland they charge 800chf at my local gold store. I’m not ready to buy a kit for just the one watch. If you could help please let me know. Thanks, Ian.

Where can i find the settings for anycubic mono?

Love the video! I was thinking about reversing the polarity in my flex shaft rotary tool, and I guess the speed controller would be the foot pedal I suppose? Then, instead of metal shards going in my face, it would go out into the opposite direction. Not to worry, I think I might just hold it upside down for similar effect. But thanks for the knowledge. I also love your grillz videos BTW. Cheers mate

I noticed that you used a ultrasonic cleaner :) is there any one you can recommend, Mr. V? :)

I'm confused with mine, some of the holes are filled at the bottom, does that mean something is wrong with my bottom layer?

i hate that the M5s pro is $579 now, i jumped on it when i saw 399 in this video to be dissapointed

Good video But The maximum declared speed is always theoretical and for layers of a certain thickness. At best 0.10mm but some brands (including Elegoo) I assume imply 0.20/0.25mm layer to declare the maximum speed Only Anycubic explicitly declares the layer (which is 0.10mm) and says 10.5cm/hour (or 2.91s/layer with exposure 1.5-1.9 I suppose) for the M5s Pro and up to 17cm/hour (at 2.12s/layer with high-speed resin and with exposure unknown) for the M7 Pro I don't know if these speeds are truly achievable So you certainly can't use layer 0.05mm to measure the max printing speed in cm/hour In any case, I see that Lychee Slicer 6 for the Saturn 4 Ultra profile provides me with print estimates (I don't have the printer, I just did the simulations) of 9.03cm/hour using layers 0.1mm (at 3.99s/layer with exposure 2.0s) and 4.62cm /hour using 0.05mm (at 3.89s/layer with exposure 2.0s) Is this estimate too optimistic or will it be more or less correct?

You mention on a newer reviev of another resin printer something with needing heater, does the Marz ultra k9 have heater or room for heater. New to resin printers so might be the wrong question :)

1:21 - "easy one hand operation is not possible". Proceeds to open with one hand anyway. 🗿

You sound very much like the late great John Peel 😊

you make it look so simple. I have no problem with wax but resin just doesn't work, I do everything by the book. I even had bluecast expert help me. all the indents get filled with metal and the surface of the metal looks bad.

Do you recommend any color 3D printer?