Gracias shif

If that didn't fix the problem why did you replace it?

How long did it take you to swap transmissions?

Transmission control selenoid actual part name which is the part the makes the gears shift not the shifting selenoid part in Transmission next to filter no no as all secret I'll give for now

That’s what I’m talking about, good job… I’m doing one now 👏👏👍

hello my friend, Great video, I have a concern I plan on putting a used transmission on mine, will I need to reprogram if I put a used transmission on mine? If I don't reprogram could I have issues with it?

Do you know what years this will work for? I am think of buying a mid nineties 4 stroke.

You’re a psycho, how the hell do you get your hands in there to even get the starter?

Little confused, you show removing the subframe, but when you show the driveshaft and transfer case being removed, the subframe is back up?

Thanks for making this I have this model and this is the first I’ve seen some work on it 🙏 although I think it’s the 6f35 in the 2011 3.0 litre?

I watched a video that said most times when you get the oil stick caught it damages the main drive gear I believe it said. Don’t feel bad I’m dealing with the same thing got my oil dip stick caught in my 2004 Honda Shadow 750 it’s running just fine but is making more noise I think in the clutch. It’s shifting and running fine just making more noise. I’m getting ready to change the clutch and see if it helps any with the noise. Sorry it didn’t work out better for you wish me luck.

I may need to replace the subframe in my 2015 Edge, 3.5L V6. Fairly sure its similar stuff under the hood as this Explorer. I've been trying to figure out how to support the engine+trans and remove the steering rack and sway bar from the subframe. The ford tech manual I got my hands on says to support the engine with an engine hoist and only shows how to remove the subframe with the steering rack, sway bar attached. Seems to me the steering rack and sway bar are just a few extra bolts and they can stay up there. Though I'm still stuck on the engine. From some other vids I've seen, it looks like the engine is suspended from supports on top. So I might not need the support? (prob should just cause) The manual also says to dispose of a number of the bolts and replace. Doesn't say it explicitly, but I assume that means they are to be torqued to yield? Is that the case or is the manual just being extra cautious?

Definitely subscribed. Did this in my driveway on a 2013 Altima. This video was super helpful, pointing out the bigger things. Question about the programming. I got a reman’d unit straight from Nissan. It came with a disc for programming. I know I can’t do the programming on my own, but I’m wondering if attempting to run the car with the new unit in will damage anything? Like am I going to have to just tow it to the shop, or get a mobile guy out?

So I can just let the steering gear and sway bar hang from above? I usually drop it all together on the subframe

Damn good video doing the job right now

yes that my problem

Hey mate, very insightful watching someone else pull a tranny out of a Pathfinder. I too am the R&R guy at a transmission shop here in Australia. I’ve done 3-4 now (one of which was a Murano) I too found the RH axle seized in the carrier bearing. I don’t have an air hammer, so proceeded to unbolt the carrier bearing with the axle. I left the rear exhaust manifold attached and just dropped the cat beneath it. I also have removed the battery and ECU/TCM each time, which I won’t be doing next time. Thank you again for the insight and tips!

Yessah!!

Grateful for this video. I wrote out the steps. Hope this helps someone: 0:00 (disconnect your battery first) 0:31 Remove airbox 0:45 Shifter cable 0:55 16mm Transfer bracket 1:15 18mm top Bell housing 6:50 Remove the top bolt on the top mount 18mm (do this before raising vehicle) 1:45 Supports the motor 2:50 raises vehicle 2:55 wheels off 3:08 axle nuts off 3:30 remove all 16mm nuts and bolts on exhaust and subframe 3:45 remove left shield 3:52 Remove 16mm bolts from Transmission Mount (left side) 3:57 Remove exhaust Hanger 13mm 4:01 remove rear exhaust nuts 13mm 4:05 remove front exhaust assembly 4:10 remove ball joint bolts 18mm 4:17 remove lower ball joint 4:25 remove lower shield plastic (under bumper) 4:59 remove lines and such from cross member 10mm 5:10 remove rack bolts 21mm 5:16 Hang Rack from strut 5:24 Remove rear mount bolts 16mm 5:33 Remove rear sway bar bolts and Loosen front sway bar bolts 16mm 6:00 Remove rear mount bracket bolts 16mm 6:20 Remove engine mount bolt 18mm 6:43 Remove subframe bolts 21mm 6:50 Remove the top bolt on the top mount 18mm (if you didn’t before) 7:40 Remove vacuum hose from mount 7:55 Remove hose from top of rear mount 8:20 remove subframe 8:34 Remove motor mount bracket if you need to heat axel for removal (skip if possible…unnecessary for Infinity JX35) 8:58 Remove carrier bearing bolts 13mm 11:24 remove axle 12:02 Remove Driver Side Axle 12:18 unplug bottom O2 sensor 12:35 unplug top O2 sensor 12:48 remove exhaust shield 10mm 13:42 remove manifold bolts and exhaust manifold 14mm 14:12 Remove drive shaft bolts 13mm 14:18 Remove top transfer bracket 16mm 14:50 Remove rear mount top nut 18mm 15:45 Lower the rack a little on the right side to make room 15:55 remove rear mount 16:18 remove rear mount bracket 16mm 16:40 Remove Transfer Case Bolts 13mm 17:30 Remove Transfer Case 17:48 Remove Converter Shield 10mm 18:00 Remove 4 Converter Nuts 14mm (turn Engine with 19mm) 18:43 Remove front motor mount bracket 16mm 18:59 Remove starter 14mm 20:04 remove coolant line bolted to the transmission 13mm 20:16 remove electrical plug from transmission 20:35 remove ground wire from transmission 13mm 20:42 plug behind starter 21:00 remove coolant lines from transmission 23:08 rear plug off transmission 23:52 Remove top dipstick 10mm 24:07 Loosen chains and let transmission rest on jack 24:33 pull off vent on top of transmission 24:35 Plug on top rear of transmission 24:38 unplug PRNDL switch 24:52 remove lower dipstick bolt 10mm 24:55 bellhousing bolt inside starter hole + 4 more - 16mm 25:27 remove last two bellhousing bolts 26:15 pry transmission free from engine and lower it 27:58 marry up the new transmission to the engine and flywheel 29:00 “you saw how I got it out, just rewind it” 29:11 Where to fill CVT Fluid

I have a 2014 Nissan Sentra. It had a transmission replaced due to an accident the first year of the car and a second transmission in 2021. It recently broke down with the following codes: a P0746- pressure control solenoid and P276- turbine speed sensor. I am told I need a new transmission. Financially it is the only thing I can afford. Is this a terrible decision? Is there advise you can give?

Isn't there a stand pipe in the transmission pan? Remove the plug, fill from top and run car till around 114ish fluid temp and when the pan fluid is trickling out of plug hole reinstall drain plug and ship it...after programing of course

thank you for your video you made it look easy, but of coarse with out a hoist it maybe tough. what should i check to make sure the transmission needs changed before i change it. any response would be appreciated .

Id have the customer pay for the replacement axle. Great video though

I see Nissan is making Junk They are number one in the worst tranmission in all the car companies!!

Who the heck doesnt have a knife 🙄

How did you charge the client??

How to contact you

How many hours was this job?

I’m currently having the same issue. Was driving between 65-70 and all of sudden I started to lose acceleration and I’d get the same exact codes on the cluster (hill descent, etc.) I’d pull over turn it off then on and it’s back to normal.

About to do mine in the driveway this weekend, made it 205,000 miles on the original trans. Cheapest rebuilt one I could find was 2700$ before tax and shipping with 1 year warranty. Hoping it works out

Nice job! My mechanic is charging $300 labor for this.... I have the OEM VW part got it for $109.00 amazon

I have a 2019 Nissan Sentra at 119k it’s horrible had a extended warranty and still they wouldn’t fix it

The CVT transmission in my 2014 Rogue SL AWD just went down. Exactly 140,014 miles on it. Car in great condition for its age but it will cost me $6,560.53 to get it running again. The new transmission will come with a 2 year / 24,000 miles warranty on parts and labor. I have no choice but to get it done. However, next time I will get either Toyota or Honda.

I am NOT a mechanic.... having said that I came to your video to see where this metal plate goes under my wife's car..... "I removed this plate" wasn't helpful 😂😂😂😂

What Engine size what that Malibu? 2.0 or 1.5L

What do you do when your transmission is in park ,but on the dashboard it’s saying to put in park and it’s not starting?

I was reading forums and someone said that the module may need flashed. Did you need to get it flashed, it did you just install it and it worked?

Did you have to remove the exhaust? Also great video

That was AWESOME! Did you used to work at a Ford dealer? My daughter has a 2018 Escape and had the engine replaced for coolant intrusion and 3 months later the flex plate broke. Any correlation? Thanks.

Great video man

At 12:30, that cover on the T-case doesn't need to come off. The T-case comes out fine with the cover on it. Thanks for posting, was a great help!

Very nice video. Maybe it does not matter as it pertains to transmission R&R, but do you recall if that Edge had the 2.0 L "Ecoboost" engine, or maybe one of the other engine options?

What tools were you using like exactly

Great video dude very informative 👍 🦘

How long did it take you and do you know if a 2012 Subaru Impreza is similar? Im debating on trying to do this myself

6/21/24 and i have a 2013 ford explorer thats needs a new transfercase looks like i found my shop

Does engine need to be supported from top?

Did you need programming for the new transmission?

This will get a lot of views. It's a common problem with Subaru's.

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