Very thin gold wire. It is usually known as laser wire and comes in all the different metals.

If I weld platinum or palladium the electrode will go rounded on the end quite soon. With other metals it lasts a lot longer . After sharpening, I put a very slight flat on the end which helps a bit. Lampert recommends doing that.

Yes

@@tribletman thanks a lot I’ll try hay one.

It's welding so only metal, no solder.

The wire is usually about 0.25 or 0.3mm and I buy it from a tool/bullion supplier. It is known as Laser Wire. If the ultrasonic doesn't remove the soot, I use one of those electric dental flossing devices that pulses a high pressure water jet. It cost about 35 pounds.

@@tribletman many thanks

Best to Google lampert PUK and the name of your country.

@@tribletman hindi

Lampert PUK 3

Lower carat gold doesn't weld as nicely as 18ct but it works and the process is tha same. The only stones you can weld without worrying are diamonds. All other stones need a lot of caution. I regularly weld next to sapphire,ruby, emerald,topaz etc but I am VERY careful.

Thanks for that, they are difficult to film because the camera gets in the way of your hands, being so close up but it seemed to work.

It is a great piece of kit. Was well worth the risk of buying it, even though I struggled to use it at first. I use it on most jobs I work on, it adds metal where you wouldn't normally be able to and avoids having to un/reset stones etc.

You will need to take the design to a jewellery retail store

tribletman I want to pay you to do it. I want the whole thing tapped just like this. Please

@@gplock1626 Sorry but I only do work for my existing customers

Спасибо

Thanks. I just used cellotape. The scorper was what we have always call a spitstick. It is pointed, so it goes through the cellotape without puckering it too much.

@@tribletman where can i find one?

@@christianjakovceski4712 Any jewellers tool suppliers in your country will sell them. They might call them by a different name. There are gravers that are similar. Lozenge shaped gravers are probably ok. You could grind it into shape if needed.

Thank you. It is not easy to use at first but it is worth buying.

@@tribletman sir what is the cost of the machine

@@MrSathish30 Sorry I don't know

Hi, the PUK 5 is the one I use and has 5 modes for each type of metal. That gives a good range of different types of weld and I find it very controllable. The PUK 3 is the one I had first and was much more basic but still very good.

Thank you, the machine is called a Lampert PUK 5

Hi, I leave the argon on overnight and over the weekend but turn it off if I go on holiday. The local supplier said it's ok to do that. I mainly do that because it seems to lose less argon than if I close the valve on it. Maybe my valve leaks when in the OFF position and doesn't leak in the ON position. It's best to do what leaks less. I turn the puk off each night, both on the unit and at the mains.

Thank you very much indeed. I just purchased a puk3s pro+ and training with your video. That’s very helpful.

Thank you. The electrode is made of tungsten. They come with the welding machine.

@@tribletman thanks for the information. I have Lambert puk welder. Trying to weld beyond cocr or stainless steel. I just need to develope skill to weld Ti and other type of metals. Do you have a link to welding Ti. Thank you.

@@myunghong9004 I don't weld metals other than gold, platinum and palladium so unfortunately I can't help with those. It's best just to feel your way and treat it as a new adventure !

Sorry, I can only help with using them not buying them !

It is a Lampert PUK. www.lampert.info/en/products/jewellery-106/puk5-1-welding-technology-for-goldsmiths

Hi Sam, good to hear you are making progress. Hollow stuff is best avoided as you can get in real trouble with it. If it is thick enough gold, then it's ok to weld but if it's a cheap, thin item, it's very easy to blow a hole in it and once that happens, it's very difficult to salvage it back to a decent condition. In the past, I have repaired such holes only to blow another one next to it and have struggled. Best avoided altogether if the item looks like it is thin.

tribletman I have adopted that approach, it’s good to hear it from an experienced guy such as yourself.

Thank you.

Great to know they are of help. Thank you.

Which Orion unit did you get and how is it compared to PUK?

@@allenl9214 I got the Orion 150s. I have never used a Puk so I can't be of help there but I will say I purchased a LaserStar laser welder and have only use my Orion for some tipping on color stone jobs. I am so new with the laser my aim is not what ot should be yet and it is safer to use the pulse ark welder for me. If you are torn between a laser and a pulse ark welder I would go for the laser even if it is a low power laser. Most of the problems I had with the Orion was porosity and I am using argon. I have none of those problems with the laser.

@@Yubber2127 can you use a laser without argon? I was very close to go with the 150s because of price and I think its safer around stones but might consider a laser like the Orotig Midi

@@allenl9214 Yes I only use argon for white metals. With the pulse ark I have to use it with all metals.

The settings are always in the description. The equivalent of GAP mode on a puk5 is the middle one of the five at the bottom of the screen but the one on the right hand end is gentler on the stone. Be VERY careful around coloured stones. With the argon flow setting, I always have it set at the lowest flow rate I can get away with that doesn't give the "gas error" message. That way I am not wasting argon.

Hi Sam. There are 2 situations where I get a lot of soot. One is when the argon is about to run out and the cylinder needs to be refilled, but that only happens for the last few welds before running out completely. The other is when the gold I am welding has properties that cause it (I really don't know what causes that, maybe some alloy that is only in some castings). I have had that mainly in 9Y and some foreign 18W. The only other thing I can think might be causing it is that your argon is not the correct grade. The PUK requires pure argon (99 point something percent anyway). I would guess that lower than that would cause soot.

Hi, the presets are in the description. For most retipping I use about 25% power. Less power for smaller claws and up to 35% for thicker claws.

thank you! I didnt notice them I will check all videos one again)) Your welding skill is very impressive? please keep making videos they are very helpful? sometimes just to see the potential of welding. Thank you one again!!!!

@@TheDrMoroz Thank you. I will try to make some more if I can show different welding situations to what I've already shown.

Hi, I have never used the Orion so can't make a comparison. I have owned the puk3 and the puk5 and they are both fantastic. Very reliable.

@@tribletman Thanks. Puk5 Maybe

I used the PUK3S in this video. It's all in the description.

Really sorry but I only ever do work for the jewellery shops I regularly deal with in the UK. I'm sure there are shops that will be able to help you as some have access to welders.