Hello thanks for your question. So the grit I chosen by where I want the ball to read. Simplistic version is to think of the lane front to back. If I want the ball to start hooking sooner I will use more surface (lower grit pad) so it’ll hook sooner. If I want the ball to go further down the lane or get through the heads and midlanes easier, then I would use polish. Also, polish can create a skid-flip reaction where the ball where skid and then when it sees friction or the dry part of the lane it will immediately move left (for a right hander). Again, thats a very simple concept but should get you moving in the right direction. If your ball is going too long before hooking, you need to add some surface. Who mentioned we were near each other? Thanks for the question! I appreciate you watching!

@@TrueHouseBowler That makes a lot of sense, thank you for the information. I ordered the pads and resurfaced some of mine and they had a little better shape tonight in league. It defiantly helped with the hammer new blue. A guy that I recently met told me to look you up. I spoke to a lady at the bowling alley tonight that had your logo on her bad and she told me to send you a Facebook request, so you should have one. Thanks!

Throwing this ball will keep my ION the prize 😆

Yes sir!! Thanks for watching!!!

Thanks for watching!

I would say medium to heavy oil. The more volume, you could use more surface. Looks good on transition too. Not the best for dry lanes. Thanks for your question and I appreciate you watching!

Thank you! I certainly could. I have that ball and it’s good but seems to be a niche ball to me. If that makes sense lol. I appreciate you watching!

Thanks man! Yeah it was really too fresh to move really deep! I appreciate you watching!

Thanks for your question! Of those two based on what you have, I would get the DNA coil. It’s a really ball and more versatile than the VEBO. If you like the nuclear cell, you should look At the excell coming out. It’s more geared towards the bowlers who like the nuclear cell line. Thanks again and thanks for watching!

@TrueHouseBowler That ball is nice, but I want a pearl the X-Cell is kind of like a less stronger proton in my opinion, I hope the X-Cell Sells good, so they come out with a pearl. And then I can get that, But all look into more of the DNA coil, And all keep an eye out for if they release more stuff for the expo

I always try to put 1000 under 2000 just to give it some teeth and won’t lane shine so fast. I’ve noticed if I just put 2000 on it, it’ll only last a few frames or one game at most before lane shine takes over. I only use light pressure for about 10 seconds until the entire surface looks consistent. Thanks for watching!

I use any all purpose cleaner with it. You don’t have too, but it helps to keep the life of the pad and also clean any residue off the ball as well. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for your question! You definitely need a asym solid such as a harsh reality. Then if you want something a step down from the phaze two either a VEBO or dna coil when the lanes transition. Thanks again!

Where would a DV8 trouble maker peral fall in the mix? Im a low rev throw between 16 to 18mph

Thanks! Depending on the grit is how often I would do it. Higher grits I do more often since they don’t scratch as deep. But with 2000 I would probably do it every 6-12 games. If you’re having a problem with the ball going to far, I would definitely try it on your primal shock. Thanks for watching!

With the new Venom EJ coming out now I am torn. 🤣 they might be a good compliment to each other .

The Ruby will not flare as much as the VEBO. The Ruby is more of a control ball where the VEBO has more backend. Both could be in an arsenal since they create different shapes. Thanks for watching!!

I don’t think I said it was a bad ball…but they don’t discontinue good balls either 🤷🏽‍♂️ 😆 Thanks for watching!

Thank you! Good luck to you as well!!

They are in fact still there 😆…Thanks for watching!

It definitely is not lol..Hard to replace or replicate the original purple! thanks for watching!

@TrueHouseBowler I had to take the surface down to 500 on mine . That thing came to life. I don't have the over and under, like I did with the box surface on it.

They make scuff pads all the way up to 5k. Look up 3m fine finish pads. Thanks for watching!

@@TrueHouseBowlerjust wonder if looked up 3m pads but the highest it goes is to a 1000 grit or am i stupid?

I have. Usually between blocks or after a tournament out of town. It does work good. Obviously takes a bit longer than on a spinner but you get great results either way. Thanks for watching!

Lol. Yep. People go crazy thinking it’ll hook more. If the serial number isn’t visible, it’s illegal to throw. Saw a guy at nationals have his been taken for no serial number. 😂

What I’m saying is that’s it’s creating fine scratches and not removing the peaks of the surface. Obviously anytime an abrasive object is used it will take away from it and the surface it’s rubbing against. And of course you could put a lot of pressure and really abrade the surface. But with light consistent pressure, it’s creates a nice finish. After significant testing, Abralon smoothes the coverstock where scuff pads create microscopic scratches. While it’s true it removes coverstock, it’s far less than sanding pads. Why do you use these for paint? My guess is because it creates less dust and gives a better surface for the next coat to stick to. Thanks for watching!

@@TrueHouseBowler thx for explaining further. Yes, the new paint needs a rougher surface to stick to. Softer surface of the pad makes it easier to not create flat spots in the paint, much like foam abralon pads or your pads on bowling balls.

Lol..if that theory holds you should invest in the sublime and get an 802 😂 Thanks for watching!

Nice. What did you think of them?

💯 imagine thinking sandpaper is the same 😂 Thanks for watching

I use the 100 scuff pad works great

The black one

Lmao! That’s the largest one

Nope. I have no stock in the company. Doesn’t matter to me if you use these or overpriced sandpaper. But the fact is, Abralon degrades the surface and makes the peaks valleys even. Scuff pads maintain the ratio. Data proves that. Use whatever floats your boat. Doesn’t matter to me ✌🏾

Thank you!

They do make scuff pads all the way up to 5k. The link I put in is just a good starter pack. 3k is what I use as well on most of my stuff to test it. Thanks for watching!

Correct, but with scuff pads it maintains the ratio between the peaks and valleys which is the Ra and Rs values respectively. Abralon or any sanding pad evens the peaks and valleys out. Think of it microscopically like a tire. The racing slick (Abralon) is grippy except in rain or snow. You need tread (scuff pads) to dig in. So while Abralon does create “surface”, it does it by evening out the treads per se. Thanks for watching!!

@@TrueHouseBowler Can't possibly be preserving peak to valley ratio. It still has to take away material in order to change the surface. The vast majority of which is going to be from the peaks, and probably almost exclusively from the peaks, which will reduce the ratio of peak to valley. If surfaced properly and taken down to 500 grit or less, you would be creating brand new peaks and valleys (the way you are supposed to). The factory does EXACTLY this when they produce bowling ball finish. When you are finished bringing the surface up to say 2000, properly, you will have a mixture of peak to valley ratios on the surface. Some original 500 grit, some 1000 grit, most at 2000 grit, but a mixture of them. This is exactly what CTD has talked about as well. You cannot get this type of surface unless you use an abrasive hard enough to cut new material, like Silicon Carbide, otherwise you are just rounding and flattening the peaks. I completely disagree with your premise that you are maintaining the peak to valley ratio with scuff pads. You are simply cleaning the valleys and potentially flattening the peaks. Since you are not removing much material with a scuff pad (the material is not hard enough to cut the cover stock), you are most likely doing little more than cleaning the valleys. After a ball gets "lane shine" it is imperative that you cut new "scratches" into the surface in order to regain those peaks and valleys again. To do this you must remove material, a fair amount of material in fact (again, surfacing all the way down to 500 grit or below and rising up to preferred finish). Modern manufacturers state these specs right on their packaging and data sheets. For example, for a Radical Innovator ball, the manufacturer surface specs are 500, 1000, 1500 Siaair / Crown Factory Compound. They are using specifically Siaair abrasives, but those are calibrated to the same grit specifications as Abralon abrasives (there is a standard for this). This is exactly the process I use when I refinish mine, just as the manufacturer did when they produced the ball. I try to mimic the process as closely as I can, and have been pretty darned successful doing so.

I’m sorry but you’re wrong. You need scratches to maintain the ratio not Abralon sanding pads that smooths the surface. If you invest in a laser surface scanner that shows the Ra and Rs values, you’ll see a difference. But ultimately you can use whatever you’d like. I have no stake in either company. I’m only trying to give people an alternative to the overpriced CTD pads and abralon pads on Amazon. If you don’t like scuff pads or trust the results, don’t use them ✌🏾

@@TrueHouseBowler - not wrong. And I absolutely agree with you about CTD .. everything they have is extremely over priced. That's why I even manufacture my own cleaning solutions, better than what they have and protect the plasticizer in my bowling balls, at a tiny fraction of the cost. But the premise of what I have described is 100% correct and sound. FYI, I have ordered some scuff pads to test, they could produced a desirable surface, but as far as actual surface texture (as I have described), I am definitely not wrong.

Do you have data to back your premise? I do. After numerous tests and multiple studies Abralon abrades the peaks and coverstock. I don’t say or film anything without some kind of proof I assure you of that. I am curious about your cleaner though as we’ve been experimenting with different methods and testing different oils to see the relationship between them. Do you have a link or a website I could purchase some at?

I go up to 3000. Then use polish on a 3000 pad, then a cloth and polish of choice to the desired grit. Thank you!

Thank you! Yes a huge difference between the two. Thanks for watching!

That all depends upon what level of grit your are using. Use a courser grit and you will have much deep valleys and higher peaks, I guarantee it. All of the manufacturers use exactly the same Silicon Carbide particles used for Abralon pads for surfacing the balls at the factory, no different than using a sanding pads with the same grit compound (several abrasive manufacturers have the same thing). What is equally important is the METHOD used to surface the ball, how much you sand it, at what grit to you begin (ie; do you take it down to 500 and build up? .. if so, how many cycles with each grit .. what incremental grit steps? .. these things make a HUGE difference in the final result). I personally have a very strict method I use for mine, taking them down to 500 grit to begin, then specific step increments from there to final box finish with calculated grit steps between each, with very precise cycles of sanding (ie; direction, duration, etc). I can get my bowling balls nearly perfectly back to manufactured "box" finish specs using Abralon pads, a ball spinner and my particular process.

Thank you so much! I appreciate you sharing!

Exactly, you cannot change the surface without removing material .. impossible.

I’m not sure people understand. There’s no doubt coverstock is removed to create surface…but these remove far less than Abralon or the sandpaper ctd sells. Peaks and valleys are key, not excessive material removal

@@TrueHouseBowler what defines excessive material removal? An abralon pad used by hand removes less than 0.0002" of material. You clearly can afford an 8"-9" micrometer and measure how much material an abralon pad removes vs a 3m pad using the same cutting pressure and grit rating. Abralon/siaar/trucut/etc pads produce a uniform surface. 3m pads, while effective at creating a surface, are not. This can't be compared with a ctd scanner but would need to be compared optically with a comparator. While 3m pads can be effectively used, to say they are superior to what manufacturers use is incredibly misleading.

@travishanson166 The last thing you want is a uniform surface. Peaks and valleys are what makes a coverstock grip. It’s true that Abralon or overpriced CTD sandpaper produces an even surface which is good if that’s what you want. But I do have access to an optical laser scanner which microscopically shows the true picture of what each one does. And I assure you that the scuff pads produce a true surface of peaks and valleys to what is considered “standard” in the industry. So to say I’m misleading people is completely false. I give information based on my findings. People can either accept them or not or dispute with their own findings using the same instrumentation. But again, I have no stock in either brand. Only giving people a different option at a better value than what’s on the market. Even in the video I say, if you prefer Abralon then use Abralon. I don’t care either way. Thanks for watching

@@TrueHouseBowler it would make a great video to show the photos of each type of surface compared side by side.