Guma

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@G.A_Media 3 күн бұрын

Just when I thought I was the only one who captured the 2024 eclipse on 16mm. Bravo! I think the cloud coverage adds a neat look and feel to your film/video. Great job on capturing, cheers!

@Gumaamug Күн бұрын

Right on! Congrats on your excellent footage. Looks like it was a beautiful day where you were.

@andygriffiths8647 21 күн бұрын

Thank your for sharing, only just found your videos, but great clear info 🙂

@Gumaamug 20 күн бұрын

Better late than never. Glad you found this helpful.

@smattc Ай бұрын

This is very cool. Reminds me of the Joe Frank shows I used to listen to. Thanks for being so hip.

@jasonstraits1980 Ай бұрын

cb750 wiring video is great,as a fellow musician i decided to check out your work. I enjoyed this song. I like the acoustic finger picking

@TheFelt13 Ай бұрын

This is amazing thank you!

@KyleRossetti-zx8zu Ай бұрын

Donyou happen to have a link to the pdf for the wiring diagram in this video its exact diagram i need for my bike.

@Gumaamug Ай бұрын

Hey Kyle, it's not easy to share files on KZfaq but if you google "1980 CB750 wiring diagram" this diagram is very easy to locate online.

@KyleRossetti-zx8zu Ай бұрын

I found it thank you so much I was able to get it in color as well. So I'm rewatching this again and something you had mentioned was getting the upgraded regulator/rectifier do you have a recommended brand for that. As I am going to be getting a newer battery for the bike

@yasineorion9264 2 ай бұрын

I’ve owned and wrenched on a dohc for years and I still reference this video at least once a week just for a refresher. It’s been a life saver.

@Gumaamug 2 ай бұрын

Cheers, I've been thinking of doing an updated one for a while now but I'm glad to hear that this one is still so helpful!

@dadybad08 2 ай бұрын

“I’m not an electrical engineer”

@FilterYT 2 ай бұрын

You did an excellent job on these motorcycle videos, thank you very much!

@Gumaamug 2 ай бұрын

I'm glad to hear it, I hope they were able to help you in some way

@FilterYT 2 ай бұрын

Well done, thanks!

@murderousmushroom254 2 ай бұрын

Great video! One thing you did leave out that is really important is that there are actually two lock nuts on the intake chain tensioner, the one on the bottom that you did, and one uptop that you missed. Loosen them both off then do the top one first, bottom one second

@Gumaamug 2 ай бұрын

It's been more than a few years since I rebuilt that engine, but my memory is that the top bolt is only connected to the mounting bracket of the tensioner inside, and the bottom bolt is connected through the bracket to the spring assembly. It wouldn't certainly wouldn't hurt to do both.

@murderousmushroom254 2 ай бұрын

Awesome video though man, helped me learn a ton

@stevie764 2 ай бұрын

Fantastic presentation on the nitty gritty stuff. well done

@Gumaamug 2 ай бұрын

Thanks stevie!

@pipersall6761 2 ай бұрын

That was a wonderful excellent video! I am pretty intimidated when it comes to a bikes electrical system and that was the clearest easiest to understand explanation I have yet to see. Thank you very much!! Btw, love the shirt. Namaste.

@pipersall6761 2 ай бұрын

Nice.

@christ3831 2 ай бұрын

13:17 was that a lil toot?😂

@grandflash1347 2 ай бұрын

Well done Guma that's a hard capture. The contrast between partial and total is a whole bunch of f stops. Nice one. Great stuff on 16 mm.

@Gumaamug 2 ай бұрын

Cheers! I had no expectations. Studied a lot of different exposure tables beforehand. Disappointed in the cloud cover and was anxiously stopping/starting the camera every time the sun disappeared because I didn't want to burn too much film. In retrospect I wish I had just let it roll a little bit, but I'm happy

@grandflash1347 2 ай бұрын

@Gumaamug Dude I am so glad you attempted this. What were your exposure tables saying for F stops and film speed ? What kind of film stock and camera were you running? What length run time did you have on your magazine. Again a real epic effort here. Better than what I got on my android phone. Lol. Yours is a monument !!! partial or otherwise ...💪 Effort.

@jackmckimm4651 3 ай бұрын

Very solid video as a new 750 owner this is gold, just wondering what the background slapping noise is at 23:36. Mine is making a similar noise after first start in a year and I'm just in the process of diagnosing.

@Gumaamug 3 ай бұрын

Hey Jack, I'm glad you find this video helpful. The sound that you're referring to is just the transmission rolling around in neutral. There is a lot of force in these engines and the primary drive is capable of turning those gears even at idle speeds. You'll notice as soon as you put the bike in gear that the sound goes away. This is because putting it in gear meshes the drive gears with your front sprocket, and if the bike is standing still then the inertia from the back wheel, transferred to the back sprocket, through the chain, and to the front sprocket stops the transmission from turning around inside the case.

@jackmckimm4651 3 ай бұрын

@@Gumaamug ah ok thanks for the detailed answer, I was kind of terrified I had spun a bearing or something as it's been sitting a while. I'll follow your tune up video before getting it on the road. Thanks again!

@_.Wolf._ 3 ай бұрын

Your video saved my life. I work on aircraft avionics and couldn't figure out why the harness in my buddies 80 CB750 wasn't giving any power anywhere. Was especially concerned that it wouldn't activate the starter solenoid. After beating my eyes on the same wiring diagram, and knowing I was right, your video made me 100% sure. Went right back to the battery with a test light, worked my way around, found that I had a loose connection to my ignition and the ground wasn't good for the neutral safety switch. Cranking good, coils got power, and lights work!

@Gumaamug 3 ай бұрын

Ride on!

@1ofThemRangers 3 ай бұрын

HELP ME I’m not getting spark at all on my right side spark plugs. I’ve narrowed it down to this area. What do I need to fix? Do I need to replace the whole piece?

@TheLee4646 4 ай бұрын

Wow who knew?! Thanks, super helpful!!

@TheLee4646 4 ай бұрын

Wow dude, great video! Thanks so much for putting this together. I’m new to all of this, and search and search for good info. Yours is the best i have found. Thoughtful, pragmatic, clear and good images. So appreciative! And i hope you did take that big road trip! Thank you!

@sthildas4857 4 ай бұрын

You are the first to explain that the whole frame is the earth..back to the battery. For those challenged earths you can use a jumper wire from the negative- side. Although my battery was charged the low V at start up was a key record that the battery was old...2011 it was changed I later found out so 12 years old. I checked my starter to 12v IV it worked, the stop/start switch had continuity so worked. The starter relay was not working correctly. Thx for your help that was excellent.

@_fredoo.m 4 ай бұрын

Hey, thank you for the video it’s a big help. So my 1982 Honda CB650 nighthawk has a charging problem. Before watching your video I replaced the stator and magneto hoping it would fix the issue but it didn’t. After watching your video, when doing the test at time mark 13:24, I found continuity on the black wire. What exactly does this mean and what should I do from here?? I would greatly appreciate the help, thank you.

@_fredoo.m 4 ай бұрын

Also am I supposed to test the connector that is coming from the stator windings

@Gumaamug 4 ай бұрын

Hi, it's hard to give a definitive answer without being there with you and seeing exactly what you mean, but if you have continuity between the one of the lines in that connector and your battery ground, it could mean that the cable coming from your regulator/rectifier is pinched or damaged and is somehow making contact with the frame. Could also mean that something inside the reg/rec is damaged and is making contact with the body of the reg/rec, which is mounted the frame, i.e. the ground. In any case, I would look at replacing the reg/rec. Charging issues are more likely to come from that component than the stator + rotor, but it certainly doesn't hurt that you've replaced those things.

@_fredoo.m 4 ай бұрын

I’m getting continuity from the copper windings when I put one lead on the negative terminal and the other on the connector terminal I’m testing. Could that be that the stator is making contact with the frame somehow??

@Gumaamug 4 ай бұрын

@@_fredoo.mShould not be getting continuity between stator and frame. Don't know exactly what the mount looks like on the CB650 but make sure none of the windings are exposed (usually they're coated in clear epoxy) and especially look at where the bolts mount it to the engine as I guess something could be pinched or making contact there. You said you replaced it - did you buy a new one or a used one?

@vladimirmoravec 4 ай бұрын

Thanks this is gold I just bought my first honda cb750 same age as me 44 years old and that is my first task with this bike of mine

@Gumaamug 4 ай бұрын

Good luck and have fun with it! I've got a couple other videos about this bike on my channel you may find useful.

@omegaman4153 7 ай бұрын

Excellent.

@ekspatriat 7 ай бұрын

If you do a complete rebuild then a Motogadgett control box is the way to go. It simplifies wiring hugely.

@ekspatriat 7 ай бұрын

That looks like you could tap a thread and make up a metal grub screw.

@user-cb7xk1ch9u 8 ай бұрын

Great video, learned a lot!! I have a 1980 Honda 750f for 43 years now...got it on my 18th birthday..., great bike, but now I am about to give it up.. When I turned the key ALL lit up as usual, and as I tried to start the bike ALL went dark (NO power). I checked the fuses and they are all good, so I tried to test the solenoid and did not spark so I check the battery and it was bad. I replaced with a new solenoid and a new battery and still NO power at all. I decided to get a new ignition and still NO power. The engine does turn when I put the screw driver in the solenoid. I checked the ground connection and I cannot see anything wrong with it. At this point I have no idea what else could be wrong. I really need help

@Gumaamug 8 ай бұрын

Hi - engine turning over when you bridge the solenoid is a good sign! Have you checked all the fuses with the ring/continuity mode on a multimeter or just inspected them by eye? It's possible that one or more is blown but doesn't look that way. They should ring out when you touch the probes to either end. So you've replaced battery, solenoid, and ignition switch. Next I would look at the right side handlebar switch where the killswitch and starter button are. Take it apart and make sure it's not full of spiderwebs or corrosion or anything like that. Clean the contacts inside with spray contact cleaner. Without looking at the bike, I suspect this switch as you mentioned that everything was fine when you turned the key and then went bad when you tried the button.

@vlratcliffe1 9 ай бұрын

Hi will this cover the cb750fn 96 reg .

@ClassicRider 9 ай бұрын

Hi TJ - Help Help - About a month ago, I got a 1981 CB750 Custom that has stacks and no airbox - Engine worked fine. I got it for my wife, and have done a number of repairs. Mater Cylinder, Turn Signal Switch, electrical shorts, etc. Similar to how the 750s' loose power when needing to go to reserve, suddenly "Babe' would loose power then jerk forward in full power. I assumed it was a dirty tank. Babe has a dirty tank, but does not seem to be the cause. The fuel regulator diagram that is mounted on top of carb 4 - the over flow tube would drip. I plugged it, and also found a replacement. Problem went away until I refilled the tank. So I added some gum out like before hoping that and spraying carb cleaner into the fuel hose going to the regulator diaphragm from the tank could correct issue like last time. Suddenly no fuel is getting to the carbs, but plenty going to the regulator diaphragm which has a vacuum hose coming from carb 2. I tried draining No 4's fuel bowl which appeared empty. Consider that Babe behave is running out of fuel, than that this regulator diaphragm might have an issue in letting fuel thru, I replaced it - Still no fuel to the carbs - Before doing a rebuild on carbs that normally run incredibly well, and even better than my original Limited's Carbs with an airbox, I am reticent to proceed any further with car rebuilds etc without your opinion Thanks for reading this - I hope I can get your thoughts on this -

@Gumaamug 9 ай бұрын

If I understand you correctly, your carbs still have the vacuum-activated regulator sitting on top. This is the disc-shaped valve (I think it looks like the Millennium Falcon from Star Wars) that accepts the fuel line from the tank and then feeds it into the carbs... These are notorious for being finicky and causing issues just like you described, and the good news is that the bike works just fine without it. Its only function is to stop fuel flow to the carbs when there is no vacuum, i.e. when the bike is off. You can remove it and run fuel line directly from the tank to the brass carb inlet that sticks up between carbs 1 and 2. You can put a rubber cap on the vacuum nipple that comes from carb 2. If you remove this regulator, you MUST treat the bike like an older model and turn off the fuel from the petcock whenever you're not running it. Otherwise you risk flooding the engine or dumping all your gas out through the carb overflow depending on how well your carb floats/float valves seal. This is an easy habit to get into and a small price to pay for not having to deal with this poorly designed part of the carbs.

@ClassicRider 9 ай бұрын

Thanks so much for your reply, your help and your suggestions - I will follow your suggestion after one more attempt on a repaired Millennium falcon. Last night after the failure of the Ebay swap, I took apart the original. Two theories were confirmed. A- Its a vacuum controlled fuel regulator ( try finding anything about it in repair books - best of luck ) , and B- that it had ruptured. The Rubber diaphragm has a factory hole , and then a small torn hole that I figure would cause it to fail. Eventually I chose a tiny dab of hot glue to seal the rupture. I rubbed gasoline on it after to see if it would breakdown. It appears to be doing its job, but just a littler stiffer diaphragm - If this fails then I go to your solution - Per your solution you noted to make sure not to over flow the carbs when parked by turning off the petcock valve. That to me is best practice - Question - is your concern that the floats in the fuel bowls are not reliable? I will follow best practice then - Again thanks for the informative help -

@Gumaamug 9 ай бұрын

Floats and needle valves are as reliable as they can be, but you'd never want to find out the hard way that something had failed by waking up to five gallons of gasoline on the garage floor. Easier to just turn the petcock off every time you park the bike.

@ClassicRider 9 ай бұрын

@@Gumaamug After lunch im going with your recommendation as 1- Im not Sisyphus, and 2- My wife ( its her new 750) learned from the MSF to always turn off the petcock valve when not in use - Thanks again !

@ClassicRider 9 ай бұрын

@@Gumaamug Well Babe is running , but with dirt in the carbs - Ill vinegar the tank next week, and since I can get directly into the fuel line to the carbs now, ill use some carb cleaner to see about clearing the jets out ( I hope ) . I can get up to road speeds, but almost sounds like missing a cylinder - ( in power ) Wife wanted to know if ready yet? I explained besides dead stalls ( idle jets block) , that Babe could suddenly for a second or two be under full power and then run again in the dirty mode - She waited a month for me to get it road ready and she got to use it for a week until I refilled the tank - ((*&!^%)*@&^)$&) She rides well - kzfaq.info/get/bejne/oNenjax4ta2tdac.htmlsi=T5AdFoaKGXQpbDMs

@hilossrt4 9 ай бұрын

One of the best maintenance videos I have seen so far

@rosew1ther 9 ай бұрын

youtube recommended treating me good today

@ClassicRider 9 ай бұрын

Mr. Masters - I appreciate your review of the CB750 Honda Electrical System. Thanks - I have two 750s. My 79 is fine. The 81 is a Custom for my wife that we just got. Although the turn signals work correctly, The Right Turn Signal ( Blue wire side ) [ will lite up and stay lit if the Running Light ( tail light ) Fuze is okay ] unless used normally as a turn signal. In other words, the Turn Signals work regardless. After about a minute or so, the running light fuse blows, and the right signal side is no longer lit up but is off unless the turn signal is selected. In reviewing the schematic I concluded that the turn signal switch is leaking a positive from the run light brown wire to the blue wire side of the switch. Observations: When the run light fuse blows, the run light does not receive power otherwise. The Turn signal fuse which is adjacent to the Run Light Fuse has not blown - turn signals work normally - Your opinion is most welcomed - thanks !

@Gumaamug 9 ай бұрын

Hi, nice to hear from you. My gut says there's a pinched wire (somewhere in the headlight bucket perhaps? Or maybe under the seat where the harness for the tail light and running lights clip to the fender).

@ClassicRider 9 ай бұрын

@@Gumaamug Thanks Ill check them out -

@ClassicRider 9 ай бұрын

@@Gumaamug Hi I checked under the seat and the connectors looked undisturbed since 1981. Ill have to check the headlight bucket, as having ordered a replacement switch. The blue line is the only hot as expected. Will see what happens - You video's are excellent - I just cant wait to tune two sets of 750 valves some day. This weekend Im going to use a new timing light - btw: in reviewing the schematic , the blown fuse in question also is for the instrument lights and front run lights which don't work. The front run lights share the same switch vicinity as the turn signal switch. When the fuse is not blown, the right turn signal lights stay on unless the turn signal is selected - this I figure shorts the run light fuse path to ground thereby blowing the fuse. Hence, the turn signals can now operate without the intrusion of the run light power source shorting over to the blue wire. If in the headlamp bucket, will review first, but I got a switch on order - Oh- something else -no where is there documentation of the vacuum fuel regulator that sits on top of carb 4 - please explain its operation in a separate video - thanks !

@thomaseliopulos1762 10 ай бұрын

I have watched many videos and this was the most informative video that I have seen

@Gumaamug 10 ай бұрын

Thanks for the compliment! I'm glad to have helped

@edgarsotomayor6692 10 ай бұрын

Thanks a lot for your input. It’s really been helpful to me. I have a question or two. Maybe you can help me if you are kind enough. I have a 1980 Honda CB 750 F super sport which I just bought. I brought it home. It was working just fine. After I started working on it remove the gas tank replaced the spark plugs and the headlight. I went to go ahead and try to start after all that and it wouldn’t. It just give me a click out of the solenoid any idea what that could be why? I sure would appreciate your input thank you and I love your videos.

@Gumaamug 10 ай бұрын

Hi Edgar, you can find on my channel another video about testing the electrical system. It sounds like there's no power getting to your starter motor if the solenoid is clicking but the bike is not cranking. Definitely check your battery voltage with a meter while you have the starter button pressed. If the battery does not have over 12v with the bike off, it will not have enough juice to crank the motor. If the bike is new to you, I wouldn't be surprised if it needs a new battery. Otherwise you can check your ground connection from the battery (-) terminal, check your main 30A fuse in the solenoid. The electrical path to the starter motor is very direct from the battery through the solenoid. Good luck!

@user-bf7vy3ub9c 10 ай бұрын

For the first time I understood the purpose of each component of the ES on this bike. Thank you very much!

@Gumaamug 10 ай бұрын

I'm glad this was helpful

@cissne22 11 ай бұрын

I have an 82 CB750C- bought with a charging system issue (battery wasn't recharging itself after running for about half an hour). I replaced the battery, rectifier, stator and starter solenoid. Now the bike has no power whatsoever, but I did discover that the 30amp main fuse continues to blow. Any suggestions of where else to look?

@rchilton3 11 ай бұрын

Watching your video leads me to believe I have a bad battery. I have a new solenoid and when I try to start the bike my voltage drops to 10 and doesn't come back up. Starter doesn't spin but solenoid clicks

@johnerganian7768 11 ай бұрын

I love this song so much

@user-li5ry6rj2y 11 ай бұрын

I bought a 1980 by the way. It was an excellent video I have a 1980 CB750K when I bought it. The battery was bad, and then the guy hooked up in a car battery to it, but he hooked it up backwards. And before that, all the lights were working on, then after I noticed that he had it on backwards none of the lights would work and then I replaced the 30th fuse. I was born if you knew something else that could have went bad or what could have happened.

@Gumaamug 11 ай бұрын

You replaced the 30A fuse in the starter solenoid? Did you also check the fuses in the handlebar fusebox?

@user-fs6bg5wx3b 11 ай бұрын

Where is the fusebox located

@Gumaamug 11 ай бұрын

On the handlebars under the plastic plate that says "Honda" on it

@hurstshiftin9873 Жыл бұрын

Any idea what wire in my head light would cause bike to die when put in gear. Runs fine in neutral. Only thing i did was remove some wiring in head light. I eliminated the left switch and wires low beam direct white and blue wire. Either something there almost like a kick stand safety but doesnt have one 81' or clutch just went..... no clue.

@Gumaamug Жыл бұрын

There is a dead man's switch in the clutch handle that will allow the bike to start in neutral with the clutch out, or if the bike is in gear, only with the clutch pulled in. If you took that out, this explains why shifting into gear causes the bike to die.

@Gumaamug Жыл бұрын

I looked at the wiring diagram and the clutch switch is just a part of the starter solenoid circuit, meaning it prevents the starter from turning at all if the bike is in gear without the clutch pulled in. It doesn't look like it would cause the symptom you're describing.

@Gumaamug Жыл бұрын

Just thinking out loud at this point... the only thing that changes electrically when you shift into gear is the contact with the neutral switch. The symptoms you're describing sound like the ignition circuit is somehow grounding out. The neutral switch cabling runs up to the headlight to feed the neutral light in the dash. I would check all wires in the headlight bucket and compare them with the diagram. Make sure the neutral switch wires (Light Green/Red) are correct and not going anywhere they shouldn't be.

@hurstshiftin9873 Жыл бұрын

@@Gumaamug think i found it ... the orange wires were grounding to the inside head light frame sound right?

@TheGREEKfull Жыл бұрын

This bike does not have CDI but MDI ignition system which is completely different

@joshuadulaney5559 Жыл бұрын

X cellent my dude sweet bikes they r. Very awsome video work as well.

@user-ue8qi1vf5z Жыл бұрын

What a Stud! Thank you!

@Chrizke22 Жыл бұрын

this video is a life save

@markstabrawasr.1343 Жыл бұрын

My rear amber lights are only going on when the turn signal is activated. Is this normal for my 1972 CB750 K. The front amber lights are lit when the headlight goes on but not the rear. All the bulbs are good. What could be causing this?

@Gumaamug Жыл бұрын

Hi Mark, this video is specifically about the DOHC 750s, not the early SOHC models. But I know that on my bike, the rear lights are not dual filament; they do not act as running lights the way the front ones do, only as blinkers. Hope this helps.

@markstabrawasr.1343 Жыл бұрын

@@Gumaamug Thank you, very much! I was thinking that I might have an electrical issue, but this brings me relief! Thanks again.

@milmex317th Жыл бұрын

Thank you good class.

@cycleclinic Жыл бұрын

Just a heads up. Synthetic oil Is 100% great with wet clutch. Almost all bikes have wet clutch and sport bikes need Synthetic oil. Honda,yamaha,suzuki, ktm,etc...... all offer thier own Synthetic oils. Motul 300v Ester Synthetic is absolutely the best oil for bikes. Even super anti wear additives won't affect wet clutches as they are designed to eliminate friction between metal on metal friction. The clutches are a fiber material on metal and the additives don't affect that friction that is what makes them work as they are designed to operate in oil. So everything else on your video I loved but your info on Synthetic is misguided

@Johnny2Bags47 Жыл бұрын

I'm not going to skip ahead. So far so good. UPDATE AT THE END OF THIS VIDEO: HOLY crud I'm glad I did watch the entire video. If he didn't break it down i would be lost. Actually i would be shit out of luck if it was an engineer explaining all this crap. Thank you for explaining it the way you did.

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