You're not driving an original TR6, you're driving some bastardized version.

I guess the rain adds a bit of trepidation not knowing the true grip, but then having to believe that you can achieve a good time gets the desired result in tricky conditions. Nice driving 👍

Love the steel wheels!

The dash layout can be very different on early TR6s, like a friends 1970 model. Mostly the same controls, but in different places. In his car, the left hand stalk is off, side lights, then headlamps. The dip/mainbeam is a floor switch, just to the left of the clutch. It also doesn't have a volt-meter, it has an amp-meter. Wiper switches are different too and a number of other details.

Thank you !

I fitted a supercharger to my 1098cc A series Engine in my Morris Minor. Before then i owned a MG Midget many years ago. 11.7 to 1 compression. 1275cc fast road race prepared engine. 4.5inch rampipes etc. Roller Rockers, pil cooler and thermostat. Adjustable oil pressure etc etc. Americana head etc. George

`One of the best tutorials on here well done that man Thanks

Great information. Is there originally a strap from the long stud on the overdrive casing to the gear selector linkage?

Just rebuilt my 1275 gearbox. These videos were great. Top man, Thanks.

Nice presentation: the drive shaft issue is similar to the stag..One of the stag owners solved the issue using CV joints. I am trying to recall details from a quarter century old solution however I think the man used Toyota cv joints however, I suspect that anything from any vehicle with similar torque and BHP would suffice.

How did everything work out with the extra venting and oil catch can? Were you still getting a lot of blowby venting into the atmosphere?

1969 TR6. Purchased used in 1979. Drove it until 1985. Garaged until 2020 and did a full frame off restoration. Not concours, more restomod with some extras and quite the nice driver too. Finished in Group 44 livery sans numbers.

Loved my TR6 … but I love my BMW Z4 more BTW, that is a beautifully sorted TR6

Thanks for being a mine of information. Not being a mechanic, it is very useful to get a heads up before you take the plunge. Didnt realise that there is not much room to move in the drivers seat

Hi nice video. When you said you got the flywheel balance did you have all 3 done together crankshaft flywheel and clutch all as one unit, sorry for asking maybe I missed it??

Have to do mine, jumping out of gear.😢

Hi, what amp ring connectors did you use to connect the three cables together.

My thrust washer is pinned, aka Racetorations mod, so even harder to change! But still the best british sports car ever made! had it now since 1983.

Great looking from every angle😊

Clean work start mg frogeye weld up soon.

Haha this feels like the comment has ended up in the wrong video 😂. Dunno if you remember a few years back I asked you to do an engine out video as my gearbox had blown up and I wasn't sure the best way to go about removing... The replacement went well and the cars at shows in the midlands I'm tempted do look into hill climbing but no idea where to start

Hi how much did it cost for the work Remington did to it and the rolling road?

well done. Cheers

Good driving technique. Thanks for posting.

What does it look like to rebuild one of these, just replace the o-rings and springs?

I also prefer fan switch in the bottom hose as stated below fan is to control radiator temperature, thermostat is to control engine temperature. Looks like fine workmanship, impressive.

Door frames opening up and scuttles moving as much as 4 inches were evident from new, the chassis are floppy. I had a 1973 mimosa yellow with unique brown trim in 1973, 6 months old. Took it round the test track at work and it topped out at 60mph. It then spent 3 weeks at lucas to get P.I sorted. Only lasted a vew weeks. Set out with my Hayes manual, and set the P.I myself. I had the car 7 years, took it all round europe in the blistering hot summer of 76 and nevef had any problem with the Lucas P.I system. The worst issue was scuttle shake and door frame flexing in Paris and other French cities. Car was kept in concourse condition but the joins between the panels were a nighmare, constantly having to replace sealistic. Good car at the time but after all these years I wouldnt buy another. Body too floppy.

what would that cost in a shop mg car needs a diff?

Great series of videos and thanks especially for the honest conclusion. „Can‘t take your money with you“ - so true. That‘s why my US spec TR6, modified already to deliver 130 HP, will get triple Webers next winter, also hoping to find another 20 HP or so. Looking forward to your next video. Cheers 👍

found your video after searching for painting car in cellulose. question if I may. how soon after painting did you flatten and polish the MG

thanks. especially the tip for the overdrive. I've seen several with a Toyota 5 speed. As a Yank, its perfect for cruising. I had sa TR 250 (TR 5 in the UK). Miss the car but switched to a 1990 Defender 110. now selling that one. I could see myself getting another TR. Your video needs editing. too many long driving segments with a Jerky camera

Surprised you are using this blue sealing material. My experience with it it is quite mediocre to put it mildly.

The fact that in less than 3 mins, your video revealed that you owned a hydraulic lift, told me all I needed to know.

👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

Great video, brings back many memories of my trips to the Classic although slightly longer than you from the Highlands of Scotland! 2,000 miles round trip including a couple of laps of the circuit!

Hi, A good honest video. I have '73 CP which I enjoy but starting is sluggish and it can be a pig in traffic, so as you say up grading the power may be a mixed bag. The downgrading in power was an attempt to make a more drivable car. I think an upgraded starter motor would be a good investment if you upgrade although as you care for your car you may already have one.

This guy is obviously going after someone or something, and is contrary to everything I read about the TR6. No idiot espects it to ride like a Subaru.

I had a TR six and I put in enormous amount of modifications to every part of the car. Mostly bits and pieces that came from TR Revington spares. She also was running on three side draft Webbers, which took me quite some time to dial in, but the finished product was like fuel injection! I miss that car.

£1500 all in, new cam, new oversized pistons and rings, , throttle bodies, rebore, metering unit and injectors, Revington labour and rolling road, sounds like a bargain, I’d have thought twice that easily. I’d have thought the Revington work would have been near £1000.

Thanks for posting the vid. As you suggest, the job looks to be pretty straight forward. I'm aware that the oil is shared with the overdrive unit (confirmed by the difference in fill quantities with/without) but have read on one of the forums that the overdrive unit harbours some oil (about 1/2 pint) when the box is drained, so to change that the OD has to be drained separately. Is this indeed the case or just hearsay? Thank you.

Where did you buy the heater tap by-pass

„TR6, a member of family… - this sounds very familiar 👍

This guy is truly an idiot! I couldn't finish watching the video! Maybe he needs to get a Honda or Kia or something! TR6 is Rule!

Nice work. Surprised that your sanctioning body allows FRP panels on the car. Here in the States I am not allowed to replace the steel boot or bonnet with FRP panels on my vintage racing Spitfire as they were not original parts. I need to find other areas to reduce weight, then add blocks in the appropriate areas to get the weight back up to the minimum limit. Where were you able to purchase these panels? Thanks for posting the video.

If you could lose the backing track this would be a better tutorial.

Hi. I know im commenting ages after the video was posted, but im hoping you can help anyway :). We have a mk2 2.5PI that runs beautifully. However if we turn the air screw to set the idle to anything below 1100 the car will try to stall when throttle is applied so is a meance around town for example - other than that the car is perfect. Any ideas? Cheers.

Great video thanks

I'm on my 4th TR6, and I love it, but it's a 1976, 48 years old, and always needs something...

All the reasons in this video and the crappy workmanship on ALL British cars from the end of the 60's to now are good reasons NOT to buy one. On the other hand, it looks gorgeous and sounds even better. I want one! :) Seriously, if you aren't mechanically minded and know nothing about cars you shouldn't buy any classic car. It will end up in an endless money pit.

Close, but no cigar. You're doing it wrong. If you want to use the vacuum method you hold the revs at close to 1000 rpm, then you advance the distributor to get your highest vacuum reading, then back it off 1" of Hg. Still never precise. The manufacturers knew what they were doing, had performed exhaustive testing to arrive at the final product and had to guarantee their products. To pretend that some bloke in a garage knows better than all those clever blokes is a pisstake.. That said, Aston Martin, in the 1950's gave workshop advice regarding ignition timing, with no actual figures. They deemed that after having set the ignition points gaps and spark plug gaps to specifications, to advance the ignition timing and then road test the car. On the road test they said to load up the engine/lug it in low revs in top gear and listen for "pinging/pinking" whereby the timing should be retarded so that pinging was just no longer present if driven similarly. Those cars have no ignition timing marks from factory. Every engine is different. You have been reading too many forums and their un/mis informed old wives tales.