Thanks for sharing! These are great points to consider. On the Honda Odyssey, as many others, there is indeed a track width difference and it makes a minor difference in the alignment measurement. For DIYers, though, getting close measurement with basic tools makes a big difference without breaking the bank.

@@profsg Yes, i agree and you can DIY alignment. i mean that i embarked on it myself after all and developed the tools to do it. The thing is, even absolutely new wheels have enough runout to throw the toe alignment angles off, since the toe angles are so fine. So you have to compensate for that or the angles will be wrong. On wheels that have been used for tens of thousands of miles, its even more important since they can be out of round due to the effects of years of use. The expensive alignment machines that the shops use also do not align to the actual center point of the vehicle. They do align to the center point of the vehicle in their internal software model however... but it is not always the same. The roll forward and roll backwards during the runout compensation is when they gather the 3d data to do the calculation.

As you can see from the Bosch study (for some reason i cannot post the link here), even say .65 mm of runout on an 18" wheel would put you out of factory alignment specs. So it must be compensated for. i went down this rabbit hole about a year ago and developed prototype DIY tools to deal with these things, and to do things properly.

@@rvborgh It's looking like a rabbit hole! :) It's a lot for DIYers to take all these into account. The ultimate solution, without a professional alignment machine, would be some combination of multi-point measurements and a good "algorithm" (e.g. with a calculator or Google) to make a reliable prediction (for alignment check). Will look into this when I have a chance but appreciate your input!

This is a "classic" shortcut. :) However, I don't recommend doing so for the following reasons: 1) This method assumes a correct amount/level of existing fluid in your transmission. While it's safe to assume they did it correctly in the factory, there is always a risk someone may have touched the transmission and set it at an incorrect level. 2) Even if the above is correct, you will have to measure the amount accurately under the same temperature. Modern transmissions are sensitive to the fluid level so make sure you set the level correctly. Also, there is a budget-friendly OBD2 option ($30 or so) to measure the temperature accurately, check out this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r9qUlr1ivZ6plYU.html

Thanks for the reply!

You're very welcome! Glad it was helpful!

Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts! Excellent job on your tire maintenance with alignment! You are right on most of the points, though 1.1 mm is the tolerance for one side according to Honda spec and my calculation. As for adjusting it, it's another challenge and I've planned for another video to do it precisely and quickly with simple thread calculation. Yes, centering steering wheel is difficult. The good news is, what really matters is the overall toe-in of both wheel and, if it steers to one side, it's an inconvenience but not an issue for tires. Thanks again for the good comments!

I just checked it on my Lexus and, with Launch CRP129E, it's under Diagnosis (NOT OBD2), select your make and model, then System Selection, Powertrain, TCM, Read Data Stream, and AT Oil Temperature No. 1. If it goes directly into Health Report, you can still select TCM/Transmission once on the report screen. It should work the same with a Launch scanner on any Toyota or Lexus vehicle. Hope you find it!

Also make sure you run a software update to have the latest.

@@profsg thank you for the help works great!

Is it completely pink or tinted pink? I suspect it's either a connection/wiring issue or due to Carplay software (firmware). Contact the seller support and see what they'd suggest.

See the other thread. It might be due to wiring/connection or software/firmware. Contact seller.

De rien. Glad it helped! This sounds like a plan. Keep us posted.

Good point about the Idemitsu fluid! I do have a different perspective on a few points here: 1) You won't get 100% fresh fluid unless you flush it, which I strongly discourage. Even after 4 drain-and-fills, you will still have 20% old fluid in the system, which is in fact beneficial especially for the following reason (point #2). 2) What is the mileage on your 2014 RX350? I assume it's a high mileage and a bit late (or has been under more severe driving conditions) for the fluid change. And that explains the clogged up filter. Given the condition of your vehicle, it makes sense to replace the filter. I am not so sure though about the flush (replacing 4 times). It sounds like there is already a lot wear/tear on the clutch materials in the fluid... but hope for the best!

@@profsg I have 120k mileage on it. It’s a city driver stop and go. I purchased it at around 105k. It shifts and operates smoothly. The previous owner neglected service and bought in to the “lifetime” fluid. Thanks for the advice.

@@BigDipper79 No problem! This is what I suspected. City driving creates lots of wear and tear. Good to know it's still smooth after all these miles. Keep us posted.

See the other thread. It might be due to wiring/connection or software/firmware. Contact seller.

See the other thread. It might be due to wiring/connection or software/firmware. Contact seller.

Thanks for the trust! Sorry we don't have an affiliated shop but are happy to help if you've got questions.

You are welcome, and thanks for sharing! Yes, it's a different engine/generation and there are differences. But I am glad the video helped!

Thank you! Glad you found it helpful!

Thank you and welcome aboard! God bless!

Wow, thank you! Appreciate the support!

Most likely you overfilled the transmission. The same fluid at a lower temperature will expand when it gets hot. You can do another fluid check, i.e. to drain more at the correct/higher temperature.

On Toyota/Lexus vehicles, the ATF fill cap is generally the same 24mm and, if that's the case on yours, the torque should be the same 36 lb-ft. As for torques for overflow tube and drain, here is a related post: www.rav4world.com/threads/did-a-transmission-drain-and-fill.305457/

As for part numbers, double check but here is what I found: 1) Washer for the 24mm filler cap should be the same: #90430-A0003, amzn.to/4ebsQaR 2) For the overflow/drain plug, I believe you only have one drain washer (crush washer not rubber gasket): 90430-18008, amzn.to/3X6mYd5 Again, they should fit but please double check.

Yes, there are options on the PC but they can be expensive, e.g. TechStream for Toyota and ISTA+ for BMW. Understood the confusion especially if you don't have a smart phone. The main idea here, for people who have a smart phone, is to measure ATF temperature without breaking the bank by: 1) using a OBD2 scanner that plugs into your car to scan your car's computer system, which communicates to 2) an app ($5 Torque Pro) on your phone to show the temperature. Because the PID (i.e. instructions for your car's computer to send back the correct temperature data) is different on different make and models, that's another challenge many people encountered in this task. This video is to show those owning related Toyota or Lexus vehicle about this specific PID and the process to configure the app on a phone to get this done. Now that you don't have a smart phone, I'd suggest a less expensive OBD2 scanner that you can plug onto your car and has a screen to show you the ATF temperature. The following is a relatively budget-friendly OBD2 scanner option - LAUNCH Creader Elite 205 ($140): amzn.to/3PqcZKT It's still not that cheap, but still the cheapest I've found without the PID method in this video. Hope this makes sense!

@@profsg Thanks for the timely reply. I did research it and I am not comfortable in understanding how to use it. What about something simpler like paper clip in the OBD2? Most people are not techie.

@@dreid4760 Yes, that will work on a Toyota or Lexus vehicle. You can jump the OBD port with a wire or paper clip to turn on ATF temperature indication, which some people may find "technical" too. :) I don't have a video about this (hope to do one though) but here is one showing the procedure: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rMeEgrV-mLqWZKc.htmlsi=1s7YDjUUxtW2tsqW&t=522

Glad the video was helpful! I haven't encountered or heard about this issue, but suspect it might be a connection problem. However, it'd be useful to rule out other possibilities: 1) Have you tried both wired and wireless Carplay and got the same result? 2) Have you tried a different phone (perhaps an Android phone for Android Auto)? Does it also show a half screen? 3) When it's on the Carplay mode, and you shift to Reverse, does it change to full-screen reverse camera? Any glitch/blinking there? If you can access Roadtop/Carplay system settings with the half screen, there are Display/Screen related settings you can try. If your DIP settings are correct for your make/model/config and no issues with the connectors--some people have reported connection problems and you can use contact cleaner and reconnect to make sure--it might be a defective unit and/or requires software updates. As for Roadtop support, I know they are in China (a different time zone) so expect some delay in their response. The best is to shoot a video showing the problem and share that with them to figure out.

@@profsg Thanks much for taking the time to respond. I have disconnected the whole unit and connected it back with no luck. Still have same issue. I also messed with the CarPlay screen settings and it doesn’t give me the option to go full screen. And I know it’s not related to the phone or wireless either because the very first CarPlay logo that shows up when the system gets turned on is also on a split screen before I even try to connect my phone. I have been in touch with customer service but they just keep sending me different dial codes and nothing seems to resolve it so far. Thanks again for your support

You are very welcome! Glad you liked it!

No need to disconnect the battery for this job, unless it's part of electrical rewiring, charging/alternator-related work, or more involved jobs where electrical wiring/components can be affected.

Absolutely! And thanks for sharing the rear diff plug torque spec on Highlander.

Yes. Normally you'd bleed the brake manually to introduce flesh fluid into the system and then activate the ABS to exchange old fluid inside the unit. Hope this makes sense.

@@profsg I think so. I think you are saying that as long as I can turn on or off the ABS Pump, I can just bleed it. The thing is, it's raining out right now and I'm too lazy to just go and connect it to the car. LOL I do know that it can turn the ABS pump on or off as I've tested that. I just don't remember if it had the word "bleed" on that function. Thanks... I'm sure it will be ok.

Yes, good points! Thanks for sharing!

So you can take off the door lock and replace/repair it. Doesn't matter if your door lock is like new after 160,000 miles.

That sounds like a solution too! Not sure about super glue for cuts on the door though. I'd prefer something stronger, e.g. JB weld. Thanks for sharing!

I had a guy come into my shop and demo a broken valve cover. Aluminum that had a crack in it. Use baking soda and super glue and then hit it with a hammer. It's some pretty strong stuff. I've seen people add charcoal to the super glue. I've seen people add wood saw dust. Next time you have a broken headlight tab. Try some super glue and baking soda.

Very interesting! Will look into it.

Great! Hope it solves your problem.

Thank you! Glad you liked it!

Glad it helped! Good bless!

Assume you have the same model/transmission, did you run the engine until it's operating temperature (fans on), turn it OFF, and wait a minute or two to measure it? Honda's procedure is a bit different from other manufacturers.

And after the above procedure, you may still need to add more to see the mark. This transmission needs about 3 1/4 quarts or more.

What is the mileage? Does it burn/consume oil? Was it misfire in a specific cylinder and it stays with the same cylinder after spark plug and coil replacement? If it's over 100k miles, it makes sense to replace all spark plugs and only use OE plugs (NGK or Denso) for this replacement. If it burns oil, you will have to address it first. Two major culprits of oil burning: 1) PCV valve: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mK2GeaeqnK-Ummw.html 2) VCM on Honda V6: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sJaSgpxk15q9g3k.html

175,350 and I’ll have to check and see if it burns oil. It’s just shuttering / shakes while accelerating around 35-40 mph and cylinder 2 misfire . And yes I got GE parts from shop. Got the spark plugs and coil pack changed

I'd prefer Honda/NGK plugs over GE on a Honda engine. But if it's iridium, you are probably okay. For oil burning, check your engine oil level. It's very common on Honda engines with VCM so make sure you disable it for good. As the shuttering while accelerating, sounds like the transmission is having some difficulty. At 175k miles, unfortunately, it's late to start replacing transmission fluid if it has never been touched. Honda transmissions--except for ZF transmissions they used on some models--are not known to last a long time and regular fluid change could have helped extend their lives.

@@profsg I got a 2010 Nissan maxima

Then it's in a different territory. Hopefully oil burning isn't an issue but CVT transmission may need attention too.

So glad I could help! Made my day!

Yes, regular maintenance is key, and drain and fill is the way to do it!

Thanks, and good question! No, unfortunately! The engine continues to consume oil almost 1 quart every 1000 miles or so. My friend is too busy to deal with this problem so I asked him to at least monitor oil level and add oil whenever necessary. He now knows oil is cheap (especially from Costco:) but engine will be expensive. I knew about the situation when his car ran very low on oil and he told me about oil pressure light came on at low speed stops/accelerations. Hopefully will have a chance to investigate this further.

You're very welcome! Glad it helped!

It could be as bad as they suggested or something very minor with the transmission pan seal. It's irresponsible for them, however, to recommend a transmission replacement without knowing where exactly it's leaking! I am wondering where the leak source is, between transmission case and the pan, at 30 seconds: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/Y5-eg9Ril7vNYZs.htmlsi=sddCowqP8tx9Qbjt&t=30 Here are questions to help determine where the leak is and how much will cost: 1) Have you done any transmission work or experienced issues with the transmission? 2) Has transmission fluid been changed? If so, did the shop also drop the pan and replace the filter too? And if so, did they use OE parts, i.e. Toyota pan gasket AND filter? Aftermarket pan gaskets are prone to leak, and when they do, the oil can get onto transmission case and anywhere toward the rear of the car (because wind blows backward when you drive forward). I have seen this on Toyota/Lexus vehicles all because of the transmission oil plan seal and the fix is simply replace it with a Toyota gasket, which is a few hundred bucks even if you hire someone to do it. I discussed this problem in this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/o95dmbWBxtGspH0.html But again, it's important to know the service history of your vehicle to identify the culprit. Toyota / Lexus (Aisin) transmissions are very well built and they don't leak for no reason. If something has been serviced or replaced and then you experienced the leak, it's likely the leak is due to that reason. Even at 150,000 miles, it's unlikely to leak due to aged gasket seals (maybe engine oil/valve gaskets but don't think transmission seals will easily leak). By the way, Toyota transmission pan seals are not soft/rubber materials and AT 205 won't fix (rejuvenize) them.

@@profsg Thanks you for the detailed reply. I bought the car 1 year ago and the seller told me the transmission was replaced ed by Toyota! So I know that much. I personally did not do any fluid replacement etc. Also I have the full service history and I do not thing the transmission fluid was changed. SO what would be your best suggestion to me please sir? I do not want to go to Lexus dealership.!!

Yes, it's wise not to go bak to that dealership. I still don't understand how they can call for a transmission replacement just because of a leak and not knowing exactly where the leak is. I'd suggest find a honest local shop for another inspection and a second opinion. While they are there, check transmission fluid level and fill it to correct level if it's low. Very important for the health of your transmission! Now, regarding the oil leak, I do see on the video it's a bit of transmission (red) fluid at the bottom of the case (aluminum), which doesn't mean it's leaking from the case itself and could have come from the pan (black, see 1:10 of your video). Here are a couple of things you can investigate further: 1) If the transmission was indeed replaced by Toyota (or any shop), it should have come with some warranty and you may reach out to see if it's still under the (replaced) transmission warranty. In this case, it's reasonable to assume the transmission pan gasket and filter have been replaced, with new fluid filled. While I hope they used all OE/Toyota parts for this replacement, it's possible they used aftermarket gasket/filter, which can explain the leak. 2) Now this might be your fix but apparently I don't know without inspecting it in person. Right now the most urgent item is to make sure the transmission fluid is at the correct level and you will need to find a shop (and it doesn't have to be a Toyota/Lexus dealership) that you can trust to inspect/check that for you. So while they are there, if they see any potential leak in the transmission pan area, I'd spend a couple hundred more and ask them to drop the pan and replace the gasket (plus the filter and fluid). In this case, insist on using Toyota OE gasket, filter, fluid, and even new Toyota pan bolts. NOTHING aftermarket! Toyota parts are slightly more expensive than aftermarket counterparts but it's not worth for this job to test any aftermarket parts. And in your area, this dealership offers very competitive pricing (especially for online orders): parts.conicellitoyotaofconshohocken.com/ I just know them, not affiliation at all. I know yours is a Lexus (?) but all Lexus use Toyota parts and an honest shop can help you identify the correct parts. I hope it's just the transmission pan gasket seal/gasket and a few hundred bucks will do it. But again, find a honest shop to confirm and do the job for you. Best luck, and keep us posted.

@@profsg Thank you so sir for all you time and effort you put into my problem. I will go and search for one and keep you posted about it. Much appreciate all your hard work

Sure! I assume you have scanned your system with an OBD2 scanner and the code is P3400, which indicates a problem with the deactivation system specifically on bank 1. If it's a bank 2 problem, the code will be different, e.g. P3497. Hope this makes sense.

Is there oil/deposit on the #2 spark plug in only two weeks? If it's not bad fuel, likely oil burning due to worn piston rings, etc. Certainly keep up with oil change, and if there is oil burning I'd recommend: 1) Replace PCV: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mK2GeaeqnK-Ummw.html 2) Deactivate VCM: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/sJaSgpxk15q9g3k.html to mitigate the issue. Also, I assume you used OE spark plugs and coil packs.

@@profsg Thanks for your advise will try those things Thanks

@@chupie123456 Best luck! Keep us posted.

Thanks for the note! One preventive measure is to drive the vehicle regularly and check under the hood frequently. In my garage (and home), I also installed ultrasonic pest repellers which keep small animals away.

Yes, it does but depends on your make/model/year. There are transmission relearn/adaptation features on BMW and I've tested some of them. I'd suggest contact Kingbolen support to confirm its support of specific features on your vehicles.

No, I didn't. It's good enough to do it once every 30,000 miles. You could do this multiple times if you like to replace more fluid out, but only do so if you have done it regularly since the vehicle was on lower mileage. On a high mileage vehicle where this service hasn't been done before, do it once and see how it goes. Hope this makes sense.

You may check out this video: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jayBfcmT37valKs.html

For the previous V6 engine 2GR-FE on your 2012 RX350, it does require the removal of the cowl to access the spark plugs.

Yes, but you'd have to use the floor jack to raise the car onto the (second set of) ramps. I guess it can work and more stable than jack stands.

Thanks! The full capacity is a bit over 7 quarts, but you are right, this doesn't replace all the fluid. And so is a regular engine oil change. The idea is not necessarily to replace all fluid but to renew it with fresh fluid. If you do this regularly, every 30,000 miles, this will be sufficient to keep the transmission running smoothly. I have another video discussing the interval of doing this and the benefit of only drain and fill. Will add a link below.

This video doesn't address your question directly but may shed some light: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jp2ZhJuZvMmmj6s.html

It uses the same Toyota WS fluid but the procedure is different (easier drain and fill without having to monitor the ATF temperature).

Glad you liked it! I've thought about your situation and believe this is how you can make it work, though I haven't practiced it so feel free to criticize if I missed anything: If one side is higher, shim it so both sides are level. Do this for both the front and the rear. I think very thin vinyl flooring panels like 5mm can work? Doesn't matter if it's uneven front vs rear as I don't see it will affect toe or camber measurement.

@@profsg I went ahead and did this today and am happy with the results. The most difficult part was getting the laser line established down the side of the car. Just like a lot of things, persisting and sustaining is the key. Thanks again for the video and for your reply.

I have both but the compound works better! No kidding. I kept a package of this compound in my garage for this reason. It was a huge relief when you got it out without too much trouble!

Let's be HONEST! It WAS the valve grinding compound that helped remove the plug. The lighting wasn't good so I recorded how to apply this outdoors after I got the bolt.