Now I need to know the end result I would had gone on with a care in the world but this comment makes me curious if it makes it or not so bro this guy just help u gain a subscription

💀

I dunno, I reached out to support last week and they replied pretty quick, within a few hours. First response went to my junk folder but they emailed a second time. So my customer support experience was different I guess.

@@Andy-vh2ue lucky

@@tjlqk3 maybe. It was a concern I had because I've heard about a lot of companies having crap customer service but I honestly can't complain

It's multicolor. It takes far longer to print multicolor. That thing would print in like 45 mins at 600mm/s in one color

@@ec7005 There's no printer on the market that can actually print 600 mm/s (48 mm³/s flow) at 0.2 mm layer height by 0.4 mm line width without significant upgrades. But yes, the problem is that the engineers working on color didn't understand that 20+ seconds to change color and purge when entire layer time would otherwise be 3s or less is utterly miserable user experience.

@@daliasprints9798 there are absolutely printers that can handle 600mm/s out of the box. Plenty of printers exaggerate their abilities, but speed has been increasing drastically. You can get a desktop printer with a flow rate of 90mm³/s for like $600

@@ec7005 Nope, that (the T1 I presume) is a lie. Actual tests show capping out at 35 mm³/s. Some reviewers with actual integrity analyzed FLSUN's race track gcode and found they had set accel down to 2000, accel to decel down to 1000, so that it takes the turns as slow as an original stock Ender 3 would do. The average flow is nowhere near what they claimed.

Actually getting over 50 mm³/s is really hard. You need a very long melt zone, at least 40 mm, a powerful heater (ideally 120+ W, and real cartridge, none of this ceramic PTC bs that drops in power at high temp), and either ideal thermistor placement or advanced (MPC) heater control if you want good prints (otherwise you have to crank block temp to 290+ to buffer enough heat for rapidly oscillating extrusion rate, then quality suffers seriously during slow parts).

About quality, fast , easy to use ? I'm about which one to buy and where I live the price 450€ Kobra 520€ Bambu is a difference

@@panagosbfh123 Yeah. Bambu does cost more depending on the model. I'd suggest either the a1 mini combo or a1 (full sized) because of how fast and good they are. The kobra is a great printer but any bambulab is exceptional. Also you should note that the a1 is around 300 without the ams.

@@crazyplanedude Thanks a lot!!

@@panagosbfh123 no problemo

@@crazyplanedude The big difference between Bambulab and Anycubic is Bambulab is closed source. You can use Bambulabs AMS only on Bambulabs printers. Anycubic already anounced the ACE is intended to be used on other printers in the future. The "buffers" are only used do sync the ACE-feeder to the printheats feeder. So basicly the printer only sends a signal to load filament from a spool. After the printer got the filament and uses it, due to the puffer the ACE delivers filament as needed, until the printer tells to retract the filament again and deliver the next. While on the AMS light the 4-tube adapter does the syncing, so you can not use it on other printers (on the X1C, P1S and P1P the syncer is on the side of the printer). So Bambulabs AMS only works with Bambulabs printers, while the ACE will eventually work with other printers also. And of course the ACE is also a filament dryer. Sunlus 4-spool filament dryer would cost 150$. So comparing prices should include this.

450$

It also dries it. This is the ace not the ams, it has a heater inside.

It dries it while it's printing, so technically it's still drys it

@@franciscolozada1059 it is also a dryer, it has an heater block

No

@@3dPrintrz ok thank you

I would much rather the a1. Bambu is just too much to compete

@@3D_AIRSOFT626 agreed

@@3dPrintrz ive read recently a couple of things about how people would have to grind on troubleshooting on anycubic printers just to get a somewhat decent print out of them an to never pre-order their printers

Fr like why does it poop and print the big ass tower wasting half the roll

⁠​⁠@@FloridaMan5363it does that to purge any remnants of the previous colour so when it starts the new colour it doesn’t have any artefacts in from the previous and makes the swap look clean

​@@FloridaMan5363 The tower is much lighter than a regular purge tower and it is not even mandatory to have one you can only let the printer poop.

Thank you and yes this is a bambu lab x1 carbon!!

@@PrintStart3D nice 👌

I believe the designer is fotismint on thangs.com!!