If I go with the rock solid how should I prep the garage floor considering that it is a new home/new garage floor?

Is there a sealer for concrete condensation before applying an epoxy coating?

Seems like anything I've tried lifts with standing water on it....just like zip strip

Great vid. Liked and subscribed. I have used the Epoxyshield every 4-5 yrs on my garage floor. It’s due now and I cleaned my current floor with a pressure washer floor attachment which really brought up the loose covering. I have “pockets” of uneven concrete now. Should I be filling them in with something, or just let the next application fill them in. Budget is note a huge concern, so I’d be willing to use a totally different product if you recommend it.

Hi, what type of coating do you recommend for a basement concrete floor? Thank you

Thank you for a great video. I would like to coat a newly built home garage and wondering about the prep. The usual to clean it up as best possible, blow, vacuum, soap and or degreaser (although no grease on the concrete yet since new). My question is whether a primer should be put down before using the Rocksolid product? You mention the concrete can be porous so is priming not recommended because the Rocksolid product is made to bond to the concrete? Any advice would be appreciated, thanks

So if i bought the Rust-Oleum 317284 RockSolid Polycuramine 2.5 Car Garage Floor Coating Kit. I want to add the anti skid. Do i just mix it in the bag it comes with? Or should i buy the clear finished top coat after the polycuramine cures then mix the anti skid with the clear finish top coat?

If i have brand new concrete from a new build home in garage. Do i need to degrease and etch floor still?

I don't see a link for the discounts?

Quick question I’m doing this by myself and my garage is quite full. Can I do this application half-and-half prep work paint or epoxy clearcoat wait they recommended drying time shift everything over and do the other half?

Can u recommend what would adhere best and last longest for my enclosed cargo trailers wood floors??

Thank you for your amazing video, now I'm clear that what i want to buy for my garage. 👍😎

show the clear please

Thanks for the long term review! I’m trying decide what floor to go with, my biggest concern with tiles is liquid spills. With the fall through floor and the solid top tiles it seems like I would need to rip up tiles and wipe dry every time I have a spill… kind of a pain no? Our use case is a little unique, we use are garage as an art studio and a home brewery, so sticky liquid spills are a constant threat. Not to mention turn the toddlers. Would you still recommend recedeck or swisstrax for our needs?? Thanks!

Can you add an acrylic tint to acrylic clear coat?

So, we already had purchased the EpoxyShield kit for our floor (tinted so non-returnable). What would be the best way to try and improve on the issues this one has, either in prior prep or after? I already heard elsewhere to use muriatic acid to etch instead of what is in the kit. And while the epoxy clear coat won’t help much, could we use the polycuramine clear coat later on with additional prep somehow? Or whatever else you would recommend, because we WILL have cars in that garage.

So what could help with hot tire marks for 1 part epoxy paint? Does such a concept and product exist yet to resolve this issue???

Great video, very informative and lots of details. Would it make sense to use an ExpoxyShield as the "base" and then a RockSolid clear topcoat, would it make it more durable or are the 2 products not compatible? Would you recommend another layer of clear topcoat every few years (5-10 years maybe?) thanks

Rustoleum has a new primer product that can be used over any surface to prep it for either of these finish products. If this primer is used first, it will help with coverage of the final epoxy / polycuramine.

I applied Epoxy Shield 15+ years ago. South facing garage with LOTS of sun on the garage floor. Zero yellowing of the product, which is now just needing to be redone. Has been a very good product overall. They should put more color chips in the kit. One pound for a two car garage is insufficient. I did have minimal hot tire pickup.

Im really looking for indoor floors

After 3 months looking for garage tiles, I found your video that make finally my decision. Thank you!!!!!!!!!!

Helped my decision to purchase racedeck thanks 😊

How long should you wait to coat a brand new cement floor

Great review. I'm not a pro floor guy, just a DIYer that has done both epoxy/flake floors and Racedeck. Our brand new home in Texas I did a grind prep and put in a high quality polyaspartic epoxy floor with flake and a double top coat - that floor was awesome, but it was a lot of work and I didn't do any patterns or accents because I just didn't have the time for all the taping - plus it's hard enough to do an epoxy floor single handed without all the taping and small epoxy areas. As it it was a project that spanned 4 days with the cure times (but not 4 full days of work). I did both 100% solo. Fast forward five years and we were buying a 40 year old home in Minnesota with a 40 year old spanned garage floor (meaning a a heavy, structural floor with rebar and a void below, that was the way they did them in the 80s and 90s with full foundations in Minnesota). Those spanned floors tend to sag at the front where the floor is tied to the foundation creating a transverse puddle. The remedy is a few holes in the floor, functional but unsightly. The floor had deep oil staining, some sag spots. Also we had already moved in so I needed to be able to move things around in the garage during the project. I did Racedeck. Due to being in Minnesota with "road buggers" all winter I did a checkerboard but with free flow panels across the front and around both car locations - the goal was to be able to set things around the margin and have the outside 3' of floor stay dry. I don't do work like pulling transmissions - but I do a lot of home wood working and things like breaks and basic repairs and other home projects. We're 4 years in and the Racedeck is holding up very well. I usually clean the main floor with cleaner once a year in the spring to get the winter grit off and spot clean and rinse mid-winter if temps allow. All things being equal I prefer a high quality epoxy floor...but I'm happy with the Racedeck. Also now with 3 winters in Minnesota I'm not sure I'd do epoxy in Minnesota just because of the ice melt and water issues that the Racedeck is soooo helpful with (no sarcasm). it has been a huge value with the Racedeck to not have snow melt puddling going to the stub walls and otherwise making a mess. There is also an unintended consequence of having as much free flow tile as I do. It's easy to clean the road grit out from under the floor. I poke a couple of long pieces of conduit (1 1/4" PVC) under the floor and then I'm able to blow out the crud from underneath very effectively with a backpack blower through the free flow areas. When it's really warm (>90-95F outside or so, about 85-90 in the garage) the floor will pop just a bit in the middle (3/8"-1/2" or so). As I'm moving things around I plan to trim a bit more around the edges and that should address the problem. People in most climates shouldn't have an issue but in Minnesota the unheated garage can swing over 100F from high to low in a season. I keep a set of 4 18" 3/4" plywood squares handy for things like jack, stands and ramps (and honestly this is a good practice with epoxy too). My advice...if you love the look of epoxy, have a floor in good shape and the time, go epoxy. But... If you have any of these factors: - have a floor with concrete issues - stains, efflorescence (dried salt like crystal residue), degradation from salt, pyrrhotite (NE problem) or inadequate fly ash (Texas problem) - plan to replace the floor in the future due to any of the preceding issues but want to preserve your investment - have a floor that doesn't stay dry enough for epoxy (slab on grade with wet soils) - need to get the project done in a day - need to get the project done and can't get enough days of good cure temps (not too hot or too cold). - you want below surface drainage - want bright, bold colors and/or patterns like checkerboards and lines without spending hours and hours of taping and hand rolling - Are just more comfortable with the simplicity of snap together without dealing with epoxy systems and all the steps of epoxy floors - You can't clear the garage 100% for days and need to be able to move stuff around and _on_ the new floor to create working room. - Do the kind of work where you will damage the floor at some point and want an easy repair that can be done in minimal time (replacing tiles) Then Racedeck is a great option. Advice... Like Racedeck says - work garage door back, you need the tiles to line up with the trim pieces and garage door. I didn't get a trick guillitine cutter. I was able to cut the tile just fine with a fine crosscut blade on a table saw. You will want the rip fence to have at least ~5-6" of material between the fence and the blade to avoid chatter which means you might be working with the rip fence left or right of the blade depending on cut size. If you have less than 3" of space at side walls or the back I suggest using the trim pieces vs trying to have that narrow a piece. Measure your overall width to see if you need to start with less than a full tile to have enough width on the last tile of a row. If you live in a climate like Minnesota with a lot of temperature swings be generous on borders. I did 1/2" to 3/4" - but 3/4"-1" would have been better and probably resolved the warm weather floor pop. Dont try to cut around the garage door rails if they interfer. Juust use a grinder or cutoff to clip the bottom ~" of the rails if there's not clearance. Anything below the bottom roller and bracket is extraneous. This will also let the floor and garage door rails able to independently expand and contract. Keep a rubber mallet handy...as you hit hot or cold the first year there will be a tendency of some tiles to pop a little on edges or corners. Just hit them back down with a rubber mallet. After the first year or so once things are stretched and set it will quit happening. - The odds are almost 100% that your garage floor is not perfectly rectangular. You will likely have to adjust your trim as you progress back and on the last row against the rear stub wall (my back wall had almost 2" of variance over 20' - I'm glad I didn't pre-trim the whole row or I would have had a lot of gap by the back corner. - You don't have to apply row by row - depending on layout and other things it can be helpful to presnap 2x2 or 2x3 sections and then pop them in. If you're 50+ solo like me that can safe a lot of up and down back strain. - Besides around the cars I put 2x3 section of free flow tile by the stoop into the house - it's great to be able to shuck wet/snowy boots, umbrella, etc on the drain tile and not have a puddle later. - If you bring muddy vehicles into the garage avoid the free flow tile. If you get mud under the floor it will be a mess - and not dry out letting nasty microbes grow. But for snow/sand/salt the free flow tile is great. Note that the floor pop has mostly gone away - I don't think I had any in year 4. My guess is over time the overall floor takes a bit of a set - stretching and compressing a bit to find equilibrium.

Some people say you have to take your tracks up to clean under them is that true?

LOL, "dont buy tiles made in china!" buy the same cheap tiles made in USA for twice the price instead.

So I have a 3 car garage. We do not and have never parked cars in the garage in 3 years and never plan too. We use the garage as a gym/ workshop area. Sometimes some sort of degreasers and oils will drip or spill but get cleaned up. What is best?

Very informative and helpful. Thank you!

Do you have any data on applying either product to plywood, such as a floor in an enclosed cargo trailer?

Thx

Appreciate you getting back to me. So i would have to sand the cheap epoxy in order for the new 2 part to stick or just leave solid black?

I am doing my garage floor soon with highend epoxy and polyaspartic. I have 16” tall walls along my garage that I painted with behr 1 part epoxy 2 yrs ago. I am doing a full flake on floor and want to do the same on perimeter 16” walls. The kit I bought is only enough for the floor can I do a second coat of behr now and cover in flake? If so what product should I use as top coat. Thanks

Shane, what coating or product would you put on your own garage floor?

Which one of the 3 Rust-Oleum products do you recommend for exterior patio?

Do you recommend any of these if Half of my garage is a gym?

I like the Swisstrax also I’m going to use my garage to wash my cars which one will be the best for me

I'm going with Legacy Industrial Original PolyUrea. Their topcoat is a whopping 10-12 mil and UV resistant. I will be getting a commercial grade floor covering, and a better bang for my buck too at $169.00. Thanks for the great advice and the links to point me in the right direction..

This video is worth thousands of dollars 😁👍

Have been looking for a "middle ground" floor coating for my garage. It seems there is a wide gap between paint, rust-o-leum DIY products, and the higher end stuff like armor epoxy. I believe this dura grade coating my fit my needs: turning my garage into a mancave but still may be used for minor things like oil changes, etc. Thank you for the video!

My floor never dried and still sticky. What should i do

What exactly does a rolling weight limit of 44,000 pounds mean? Is that the amount of weight that a tile can support if pressed down with a square flat plate the size of the full tile? So would that then translate to a weight limit of 305 pounds using a one inch square peg, if the tile was 1 square foot?

🥱

QQQ… are they slippery when wet? I was thinking of doing for a shed, and I ride / store my motorcycle in the shed

I’ve used both kits and the Epoxy Shield didn’t last but a few years. Hot tire pick up was the biggest problem. Sanded it all off and went with Rock Solid. It’s been on for about fifteen years. The problem I had with Rock Solid was a few batches never dried. I contacted the company and they were aware of certain batches being defective and replaced it. Recoated the sticky areas but it still picked up dirt over the years. I have had zero problems with hot tire problems with Rock Solid. Now the clear is pealing off in front of the garage door and assuming it’s from the UV rays.

I have a year and half old home. The garage floor is pretty clean other than some dirt tracked in from other homes being built on the block. I have a couple hairline cracks here and there. It's a two car garage with a 4 foot wide extension. I figure maybe 450 sf and I have some 4" cement boarders before the sheetrocked walls. Puddles form from rain off my vehicles so I believe I'd have to etch the floor first, would you agree? I think the 500sf full broadcast option would suffice. Do you agree?

@allgaragefloors How long should I wait after the EpoxyShield color coat to apply the clear coat?

Can polycuramine be patched? Or can I put a new coat over the old coat. I have a 3 year old coat and my offroad truck tire pulled some off. Im willing to buy from you.

I just went with the TrueLock Diamond Tile, bought it from Amazon and showed up 3 days later. I did just the walking area in the back of my garage to test it out (where the tools, ahem...beer fridge is, etc). This may have been the easiest thing I've ever done. I didn't need a rubber mallet to lock the tiles, just needed my foot to press down and lock them in. I locked about 15 tiles together and didn't like the noise they were making so I went to Home Depot and bought a 2mm underlayment for concrete and it reduced the walking noise significantly. Roughly 130 sq foot for tiles laid down in roughly 90 minutes. That includes cutting 9 tiles to fit the area and moving all my stuff back into place (including the beer fridge). I cut the tiles with a dremell which will slightly melt the tile edges along the cut but then I took a knife and quickly cut the melted shavings off. I absolutely plan to put this product on the rest of the garage where the cars park. Great video which ended up being my decision maker. 2 thumbs up!

Will water run under it