Dude, used this video 2 years ago to do my first one. Doing again on a different truck today. Thank you so much for making this, couldn't do it without it!

Nice.. can I use my truck intake on the 4.8 stock - will it fit under the stock hood of my 89 Formula?

Tried and True

Hope I can get mine running this good

With the 470 ohms resistor inline it shouldn't matter much if it was straight to the battery because at 12v off or 14v running its sub 30 ma that can flow but switched it ideal

I see lots of comments of people not knowing this but the info has been available on the internet for several years before this

My turbos are loud AF on my 18 during acceleration. Surprisingly. I feel like its louder than any one ive heard lol. I havent even pulled the pipe or anything to check if the swirls are gone or not. But did do a VTA plug on the lower hose

Ty ty ty. Hope u get this, been trying to wire a LS in my airboat. Not many people willing to give up free help. Ty ty ty. Any thoughts does a msd 6014 need a fuse/circuit breakerand if so what size? Does a starter need need same. Any help greatly appreciated

Did this today was able to get my hands in there but I have extremely long fingers lmao

Great video. thanks for showing all the real issues and not just an assembly video.

Just for y'all's info: P: Pulse (or Stator Pulse). This terminal is used for tachometers, which measure engine RPM. It's like the alternator's way of saying, "Hey, look how fast I'm spinning!" L: Lamp (or Warning Lamp). This terminal connects to the warning lamp on your dashboard. When the alternator isn't doing its job, this lamp lights up to say, "Hey, something's not right!" F: Field (or Rotor). This terminal controls the alternator's field coil, which helps regulate the alternator's output voltage. It's like the alternator's way of saying, "I've got this under control!" S: Sense (or Battery Voltage Sense). This terminal is used to sense the battery voltage. It's like the alternator's way of saying, "Let me check the battery's level before I give it a boost!"

Is that a sniper 2 model?

I have a 93 camaro. l just did a 5.3 4l60e swap,had the factory truck computer deleted,the biggest mistake l made was using a BMR tubular subframe, was absolutely garbage sent it back twice for alignment issues and still isn't right,can't wait to see yours up and running

What cage is that? Summit kit?

Couldn’t you run the L wire with the 470ohm right to the main lug on the back and then only one wire to the battery. Then it wouldn’t burn it up. Or would that eventually drain your battery

As soon as you said “run the exciter wire to a key switch 12v source” I knew I had it wrong. Just did what you said and now it works. Thank you!! 🔥🔥

Nice I was the 666th like on this vid lol ok thanks for info

Mines still have 12 v even with in resistor

Do you know what the part number is for the passenger side?

Does your connector by any chance almost touch the mounting bolt hole were the fender attaches to , Im going to cut the bolt threads so it tightens the fender down

We’re should I connect the yellow coil input and and the purple and green wires

We’re did u connect the yellow coil input and the green and purple wires ?

What did u connect the yellow coil input to from the holley sniper and the purple and green wires

These aftermarket self contained efi throttle bodies are a modern form of the old chevy TBI deals. They took a 4150 style throttle body and added injectors to the sides where some even look like holley style fuel bowls. And instead of hosing down into the intake these things use annular rings with a bunch of little holes in them which gives good atomization and gets the injectors out of the air stream. And the injectors are based on the LS3 units as far as how long and wide they are and like dude said they run stupid amounts of fuel per hour and if you want to you can get the injectors from the bigger aka more expensive sniper system and install them into your deal (cfm on the throttle bodies are the same until you get into the terminator series) and after a little reprogramming your TB can support 800 instead of 650h👍. And self tune will work as advertised for everything but full throttle you need a wide band and log your data

How many big brains have given you all the many reasons that using the tbi setup is wrong?

You like spending money you don’t need to boy

What year is that z28 next to the truck..btw. I also have 2018 F150 and gonna do the samething

Why did Ford go to the studs instead of the bolts

Thanks for explaining everything. I can't find anything about snipers on ls motors, I've been winging it for awhile lol

Well, damn, I’ve got a leak on the rear of the engine.

Did you have to turn the strut 180 or did you just swap the driver and passenger struts

I'm curious about the "F" wire. It seems the field wire would need to be attached also, but you say no, so I'm gonna try it your way. Thanks. Good video

Flexplate that works and needs no mods or kit to make it work. It's the ATP Z-270 Flexplate LQ4 LQ9 LS Swap With TH400 4L80E Automatic Transmission 168T.

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My 2018 F150 with the 3.5L just blew all the coolant out of nowhere driving down the highway. The first warning I received was the blinking "ENGINE OVERHEATING" light in the dash. I immediately stopped, refilled the coolant/water but then the engine wouldn't start. I have all kinds of warning signals going off and the truck is acting like the battery is dead. Tried unplugging the battery and reseting the computer but it didn't work. Tried jumping the battery still didn't work. I actually think the leak came from the hose right up top in the driver's side because it sprayed fluid all over the wiring harnesses by the brake box. I'm at a loss now. Any ideas? I also tested the alternator and it's good but the truck won't start. I'm afraid it seized up but it only ran two miles overheating. Oh and I paid $3800 for an extended warranty to cover everything up to 75,000 miles but I just passed 87,000 and now this🤬

You dont prime after you add your new oil?

I ordered a 100 pack of 470ohm 1/2w resistors, and wired it just like you explained in the video. Didnt work I can take a peice of wire straighr from a battery, hook the resistor to 1 end of the wire and test voltage on the other side of the resistor and its still 12v, i ordered a 100 pack, none of them make it go down to 5v I ended up cutting the unused map sensor pigtail and used the 5v reference wire Holley should give you a 5v spaee on the harness somewhere

Wow‼️🤷🏾 Love it‼️🤟🏾

911 or 2 gallon of kerosene

For the msd are you running the map hose

When wiring them together I see it’s just the one rpm wire from the msd 6ls. Box. I just hook my msd box is like it states to do on the instructions correct? And then for my rpm on my gauges I just take that from the sniper harness ?

How much power you planning on making that sniper is probably going to limit you on power ?

I hear you on the oil for your 3.5, but for some reason FoMoCo decided to replace the oil pump chain with a kevlar belt on the 2.7s so I decided to go with high mileage Pennzoil Platinum full synthetic in hopes that seal conditioners will keep the belt young. As an aside, I have the same hood graphic on my truck except the red isn't pin striped. Looks great, did it come that way? Is it 1/2" on the outline? I am thinking about picking up some black 3M tape now so thanks for giving me an extra project /s

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So I installed the sniper and ls1 msd box hooked the yellow wire from the sniper to the grey wire on msd box the truck will prime but the setup wizard will not work keeps giving me a error code

Do you have a link to the mounts? Only ones I can find say it’s for a c10 truck

Would using AN fittings and flexible coolant line make this easier? Im thinking of buying a kit from Full race.

The brown wire right takes the resistor ?

part number in this intake ?? and what heads do you have.

What do you do with the field wire