Absolutely, and as it should be!

You're very welcome. I try to be as detailed and informative as possible so that you can get the job done correctly the first time. A calm and composed approach helps others receive instructions easier!

Yes Sir, the more you know 💪🏻

Good deal, glad to hear it's running as it should!

💥💥💪🏻

Thank you so much!! Don't worry. You'll get more than just Saturn Sky videos! 😉

I ran over a dead dear at the cressant of a hill, and it knocked off my original o2, got a cheap one off of rock auto and it's already giving me issues, electronics are already cheap and finicky on these cobalt/g5's and I fear I just made it worse... 😅All I did was unplug the connector and plug it back in, so far so good, haven't tested it much yet... Anyways, good reliable cars, just, for anyone thinking of getting one, get as little electrical implaments as possible, they will not last, I have a base model g5, other than the auto transmission, and I've had the guages decide to do what they want all at once, and the front speakers stop working, which is really annoying because there is now no chime for flashers or the key being left in the ignission, anyways, good reliable simple cars, but get ones with little to no options

It's good to hear it's popping up for the other makes, I've been meaning to add the Pontiac G4s, G5s, and Pursuits to the descriptions since they're the same cars. But time has gotten away from me, too much to do and too little time. Maybe this weekend. I'm glad to hear you got the sensor replaced, and yeah, I always recommend using OEM whenever possible unless it's something with higher standards or else they'll give you issues. This one's been really good to us. We've had it for years and have only replaced a few things on it, like the Lower Control Arms, PCV Hose, and Thermostat. Not too shabby if you ask me. I agree with trying not to add any electrical implementations, or else you start to get dodgy. But then again, that's what modding is all about! Especially if you have the 2.0L. You just HAVE to! Definitely recommended getting that speaker replaced though, need to have those chimes for safety reasons!

Currently, I do not, no. I am planning on remaking this video and even started filming to help the viewer get a better layout of how the front of the engine looks so they know what to remove, whats in the way, or which side is best to start on. This video is old, and I no longer do things this way, so I apologize for any inconvenience that may have brought you. When I do upload the rendition, I will personally tag you here. I will say, just to give some pointers to and help you out a bit, if you have a Redline/GXP start on the drivers side and remove the drivers side intercooler. This will open a giant hole for you to reach the belt and tensioner. The P/S belt will have to be done through the passenger side. If you have the Redline/GXP, remove the black rubber hose to get you some room. I hope this helps!

@@Kaswells_Kappa to me it seems like this would be 10 times easier from underneath. But it doesn't look like there's anything you can remove that would open any access. I have a 2009 Sky Redline.

It might be doable to try from underneath, but I believe you would have much less room in the end. You can ease access to the drive belt tensioner by removing the driver side intercooler and the P/S tensioner by removing the black turbo hose. With both removed, you should have a little more breathing room.

It really is interesting, isn't it, and there's almost always a debate over the topic. Is there research that shows it's both negligible or beneficial? Absolutely, yes to both. Would it change anything if I chose not to? Probably not. I would like to think an engine doesn't need it done. But at the same time, I would like to think that it wouldn't hurt, and maybe it helps a little. In the end, it's all personal preference, and I would like to believe I did everything in my ability to help my vehicles last as long as I could!

THE best statement right here! Thank you for the great laugh, I couldn't agree more.

@@Kaswells_Kappa I'm just kidding. I don't own a Sentra, but i do own a Versa & by contrast the Versa is the easiest car to oil change i've ever owned.

A versa, huh? Boy, did I get the short straw. The newer sentra's have by far been the most tedious oil change I have ever done. I think the smoothest one I've done was on my Saturn Sky. Everything's up top except the drain plug.

Or take it off and don't install it back

That's another option, yes. It's not like they had them in the first place. But with how finicky and fragile vehicles are nowadays, I wouldn't be surprised if a small rock punched through something.

You are so welcome, and thank you!

Absolutely, you are very welcome!

I'm happy to hear you got the help you needed! 🙏

Absolutely! Thank you for the kind words. Would I say it's possible to do? Yes, absolutely. Anyone can do it with the right instructions. BUT, if you aren't quite comfortable yet with handling certain work, I would take it to a mechanic.

It can be one solution, yes. A faulty O2 Sensor can cause a slew of codes like P0137 or even P2A01 (an upcoming video). But there can also be other problems that would flag this code such as faulty electrical equipment, worn wiring, faulty modules, or a bad computer. The simplest way to go is to replace whatever the code is associated with. Which, in this case, is the O2 Sensor. If that doesn't solve the problem, the next place to look would be the O2 Connector and then Wiring. Hope this helps!

@@Kaswells_Kappa Okay thank you very much for your help

Absolutely, good luck!

Thank you so much!

You are correct. They don't allow for a flush fit. But if there's any moment you use a tight cup, it won't come out with the cup. I prefer the screw believe it or not. Also, it keeps the console from moving or shifting. So there's a give and take.

You can buy it from the link I'll provide below. It's from DDMWorks. Be aware that they are out of stock and on a heavy back order. They took several months to get me my order. Link: www.ddmworks.com/Center-Console-with-cup-holders-for-Solstice-Sky-by-DDMWorks_p_901.html

An Air Intake install. I'll have to put it on the list.

I couldn't agree more! Not only is it ridiculous, but it's most likely not even needed. I get it may have some benefits in certain aspects like protection for debris or cooling/airflow for underneath the engine. But goodness, they could've made that panel smaller! An aftermarket panel would be a great idea. I'll have to check myself and see if there are any available.

@@Kaswells_Kappa I think I might get a second one and cut a hole in it, haven’t been able to find an aftermarket solution

That may be the best route to go. I see a bunch of covers with slots for the Oil Filter and drain plug. The only problem is they're either for the 2010 - 2019 Sentras or they're for the current year Altima's. Doesn't look like it would be too difficult to fabricate something with holes, though.

I had my cover ripped off going somewhere I shouldn’t have. 5 years later no issues for a ‘12 civic coupe.

Ouch, well, there's always a risk when going on an adventure. Honestly, in my opinion, most vehicles don't need them, and they really just started adding them to these newer ones (newer as in 2010 to present). But, with how delicate these newer cars are, I'd almost be afraid to leave it off. Ain't what they used to be, that's for sure.

Yeah, lol. I figure some things don't need to be shown. If someone can see how to take something apart, they can easily reverse the process and put it back together

Thank you so much!

You are absolutely correct. A vacuum fill would save a great deal of time. But for us folks without one, we have to use other methods like the static fill to get the job done.

You got it, man! Thank you so much!

Thank you! That's my whole drive for making these videos, to help others get the job done right the first time. Glad to hear I gave you a shot of esteem and saved you some cash, that's something we could all use! Once again, thank you so much!

Yes, it absolutely can. The MAP Sensor, along with other sensors such as an MAF/IAT Sensors or Throttle Body, helps the system calculate the air to fuel ratio for your car. Without this, the vehicle could run rough or have a tough time keeping the engine from stuttering or dying. Hope this helps!

Absolutely! It's always my pleasure to help!

I apologize for the delayed response. You are correct in removing the Oil Cap first to provide better ventilation and flow when draining the oil. For a while now, I've been wanting to update old videos such as this one and add in details I may have missed, like removing the Oil Cap or reiterating details already discussed. As for prefilling, as I stated in the video, there is much controversy on the subject, so I tend to stay away from discussions that could bring them up. But in the end, I believe if you could prevent some engine wear just by doing that small action whether it actually does help or not, then why not. It sure as heck won't hurt anything, you know? Thanks for commenting!

Absolutely! Good luck!

@@Kaswells_Kappa came out very well! Didn’t take long either.

Awesome! Glad to hear it came out well and didn't take too long!

Awesome! It is pretty easy besides getting all of the wiring out of the way. Make sure you got the correct one with the spacers for the 2.4L NA engine!

Possible with age and use, though it is normal for a spark plug to have a "brown to grayish-tan" appearance due to "combustion by-products from fuel with additives" according to the Service Manual.

@@Kaswells_Kappa I like all your vids, and so does my Sky !!

Well, I'm glad both you and your Sky enjoy the content! Thank you so very much!

I apologize for the late response. It's been a busy weekend. So the airbox doesn't have to be removed. It may help a tad, but not much. You would still have the same amount of clearance with the radiator fan sitting there. Removing the charge tubes wouldn't really be needed as well, BUT they do make more of a difference and definitely give you more access to the Tensioners and Belts. This video is a little outdated, and I do plan on updating it with a better version with more details. The only reason there was such a good view of everything was because I had the camera shoved into the engine bay to get the best view. All in all, removing the charge pipes, though the service manual doesn't mention it, does help with access, but it's still a tad of a squeeze with how compact this engine bay is. If you have anymore questions be sure to let me know. Once again, I apologize for the late response!

So what I would do is start with the simple things, then move on to the more complicated repairs. First check to make sure it's not the bulb. If it's not the bulb, then I would check the bulb socket. The turn bulb sockets are notorious for breaking. There are little copper springs inside that will bend or snap and prevent a bulb from going in all the way. Carefully check the socket and make sure there are no deformities. If you've ruled out the socket, move onto fuses. If you can't find a fuse for turn signal or park lamps, then try the BCM fuses. The BCM can be found behind the passenger side footboard. Find the fuse and make sure it isn't blown, then make sure the prongs aren't burned up. A slight discoloration is normal. I'm away from the service manual at the moment, so the best I can do for you is a process of elimination. If it's just one turn signal, I would check the bulb socket. If it's both, then it would sound like a fuse, as you stated, unless there are some wiring issues present.

Absolutely, anytime! Alright, so according to the Service Manual, the coolant system should be changed every 5 years or every 150,000 miles. The manual also does state to visually inspect the system to make sure it doesn't need to be changed earlier or to add fluid. I'll provide catalogs for scheduled maintenance below as well. I hope this helps! Link: drive.google.com/drive/folders/1bl6KJBnQVujQK3FPFd7TN_RfNspv68Eu

Very Nice ¡ as usual 👍👍👍

Thank you so much!

I would've changed the heater hoses as well, but as the saying goes. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I can probably get a few extra miles out of them and replace them when the budget allows for it.

@@Kaswells_Kappa😂I understand. You’re at great mechanic, so save that $$$. Enjoy the Kappa

Well, thank you! I sure will!

Thank you so much! It sure would be nice to work on another Kappa, maybe one day. You're so right. It would have been a great time to do so! The only problem is it'd probably be just as dirty in about a week. No garage to keep the dust away, and parking under a tree always leaves me with a dusty car. 🤧

Maybe I can schedule the water pump and timing service.👌🏾 I bought a $60 car cover from Walmart and it does the trick, when I don’t keep it in the garage. Hmmmm but it will not hurt to detail the beautiful turbo engine…😎

I do have a cover, but it only seemed to do so much. Dust always found its way into the engine in no time. I guess it wouldn't hurt to do it again..

Haven't had any issues with mine. I would imagine it would take a little more force to break the mounts for the airbox with how thick the plastic is. But I guess you never know.

The Power Steering Pump can be removed through the top of the engine according to the service manual. Albeit you'll need to move a few things. You may also be able to remove it through the bottom, as another individual stated in the comment section.

@@Kaswells_Kappa mines draining now. shouldent be a issue pulling through top. but if I ever need to do my gxp ill do down on it.... removing front wheel makes things easy too.no fender liners on mine yet so that also helps.I can axsess the bolts right under the frame with extension. what really sucks is the morons that package the wrench sets dont give you the 18 mm most of the time. nor 18 mm socket... effing morons. they should of left out the 19 mm as its' about the same as 3/4"

Yes, I also had to go through the wheel well to remove the whole assembly since the pulley flange was bent. But removing just the pump bolts should let be too difficult if the pulley is removed with no issues. I agree with wrench sets. There is a set I own that doesn't have a certain socket. I can't remember what size, but it's annoying still.

You are correct. The pulley should be flush, but being 1/16 too far will not hurt. You are also correct. The High Pressure Lube should go on the threads of the installer and, or, puller. But, being this was my second video some time ago, I was still figuring things out. I didn't get it all over me, though!

If I ever get a Pontiac with some messed up Emblems, I'll be sure to make a video! In the meantime, I do have pages from the Service Manual in my Google drive, which detail installing the front and side Emblems. They can be found in Section 2: Body Hardware & Trim --> Exterior Trim --> Pages 2-3 to 2-5. Sorry to hear about your cap! Did you manage to find a replacement?

Yes! This is all completely true. The 2008 year model Kappas were shipped with a faulty code that would forget accessories programmed to the RCDL / TPMS Module when the battery died. This included Key Fobs and the Tire Pressure Sensors. Now, GM did release a service bulletin on this matter. However, it was not one covered by GM but the consumer. As for getting it all fixed, this is where the bad news is. The only way to fix this remedy is with a Tech2 obd device. With the Tech2, the RCDL Module has to be "updated with a new software calibration," according to the bulletin. The only problem is that Tech2's are expensive unless you get a China clone. If not, your only other option is to go to a dealership to get this fixed and present them with this TSB, IF they are willing to even work on it. If they do, I've heard a range of charges presented to different Kappa owners ranging from $80 to $360. This is why I haven't done mine yet. I'll provide the link to the TSB below for ya. I hope this information helps, and if you have any more questions, be sure to let me know. Kaswell TSB: 08-03-16-001B Link: drive.google.com/file/d/1eaXebhRhZdtP_oSpPgtvpc79MxPlRM8F/view?usp=drivesdk

​@@Kaswells_Kappa Man i appreciate you! 2 year old video and still answering comments! I really do Appreciate it.

Absolutely, man, thank you! It's always been my priority. I do apologize for the late reply, though. Thank you again!

Things were much simpler and designed for the consumer to do their own maintenance back then. Nowadays, they don't want anyone doing anything. Even the thermostat on the Cobalt wasn't this complicated.

Thank you so much, sorry to hear about the motor, sounds like a lot of work! Thank you but I am happily married. Kaswell

Unfortunately, there is a bit of work to do before removing the silver piece, also known as the front "Console Front Cover." I'll provide a link down below to a folder that will have step by step pages according to the Service Manual. I did include removing the shift Lever just in case but, if you have a manual, you should just be able to lift the boot trim and slide it through the hole. That should be everything, though. If you need help or if I've forgotten anything, just let me know. Good luck! Link: drive.google.com/drive/folders/16biQlBvWA3IDP96aSDYMe3S2eQlS4J4X

@@Kaswells_Kappa Yep, mine's a manual and already have the boot, knob and airbag warning panel removed. Entire cover is loose enough to run fingers all around it. thx

Awesome, I'm glad to hear you got those taken care of. You're very welcome!

Thank you so much. These comments are just as essential, and I really appreciate it, mate! Also glad to hear you got an Opel fixed up. Don't hear about too many of those! I've thought about upgrading the radiator as well but haven't committed to it yet. Maybe in the future. Once again, thank you so much!

Awesome, I'm glad to hear you found what you were looking for. Can't wait to hear how it goes!

Might be a dumb question, but this is the same process and location for the Solstice GXP correct?

There are no dumb questions around here, just new things to learn! Yes, that is correct. The Solstice GXP has the same fit, location, and function as the Sky Redline. Even the base models use this same fashion. Albeit some Solstices do not have an AC Compressor and, because of this, a different Drive Belt. But other than that everything is the same on these cars!

@@Kaswells_Kappa thank you! which belt part # did you use? im looking at the autozone website and there seems to be different belt sizes and numbers for the power steering belt and serpentine belt. what would be the difference between these and the ac belt/ alternator belt? thanks for the help! 😁

Absolutely! I always prefer to go OEM with everything, which would be ACDelco or, if you need an aftermarket belt, I usually prefer Duralast. I'll provide you the part numbers below so you know what to look for. As far as the different names you're seeing, such as the AC Belt, Serpentine Belt, Drive Belt and Alternator Belt, they all are the same belt. Our Drive Belt connects to all these components so it can technically be called any one of those. The Power Steering Belt is a separate and much smaller belt. I'll provide the number for it too. I hope this helps and clears some things for you! ACDelco: Drive Belt- 12634321 or 5K405 Power Steering- 12585310 Duralast: Drive Belt- 405K5 Power Steering- 310K3 I believe the Aftermarket Power Steering number could be wrong so be sure to do your own research to make sure it fits.

Absolutely, we don't need debris getting into the combustion chamber.

I have! If I could do the process over and give a tutorial, I absolutely would. But, with the different variables that seem to be present from Kappa to Kappa, I'll have to wait until I get another to showcase all the possible outcomes associated with switching it over.

Thank you so much! I try to put as much information as I can for everyone's benefit. As for your overheating issue. It could possibly be due to air in the system, as in a very small amount which sits under the thermostat and keeps it from opening for a time. But usually, if air is prominent, there are more consistent times of overheating. There is a way of possibly removing all the air without flushing, but it involves an air compressor. I believe there's another video on KZfaq that showcases this, but I always prefer a static fill. I'll provide the link to the video below. I hope this helps you! Once again, thank you so very much! Link: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r96FdN2px83GZIE.htmlsi=T8cpXwwQ-aFEmIlm