sent you the link by email.

@@michaelprzewrocki4195 I know that, but it doesn't answer my question?

Sorry, Sergey, I do not understand your question. Please ask again with different words. The word "shed" is not the right English word. I don't understand the phrase "on the outside a little shed".

I wanted to say that the shutter curtain is not new

It does not matter if it is not new, provided it is in good condition, is correctly lubricated (not something for the user to do!!) and was adjusted when serviced, if necessary, to give the correct speeds.

If 1/125 sec does not work, the cause is almost always hardened lubricant. The camera needs a routine service with the old lubricant being cleaned out and then relubrication & adjustment of shutter speeds (if necessary). It will then work like new for years.

John Thanks for the feedback. I'll do another video (or more!) whenever I can persuade someone to shoot the video for me!

Hello This is not a common problem, but the cause is well-known and easy for a camera technician familiar with these cameras to fix. After many years, the lubricants in the camera harden, and if the camera has been stored in a very hot place (like the attic of a house in the summer!) some of the lubricants in the camera body and in the lens may "migrate" from where they should be to where they shouldn't be. With the camera body, the first indication of this problem is that the shutter speed 1/125 stops working. (With the lens, focussing may be stiff, and if the lubricant has got onto the aperture blades, they are likely to stick, and not close down or open up properly.) The solution is a full normal service ("overhaul"): partially disassemble the camera (and the lens, if necessary), clean out the old lubricant, clean the components as may be necessary (for instance, the aperture blades in the lens), apply the correct new lubricant in the appropriate places, reassemble, test and re-adjust the shutter speeds, if necessary. So your camera is not "broken"; it just requires a service. This is worth doing. If the camera is used regularly thereafter (and not left in very hot places!), it should work faultlessly for years, possibly for decades.

Pentacon Six Expert that's great! I've talked to the guys at the camera store where they services the lens and he said that it's not something he enjoys doing since it takes a lot of work to. He said I should put the camera whiteout the lens and light meter on a radiator and see if that loosens up the lubricants. It helped a bit but the shutter is jamming. I've tried using the camera and avoiding 1/125 but in most cases my light meter gives me 1/125 at the chosen appeture. what does the average services cost and for how much it it worth doing? I love the camera though and I've already taken a couple of beautiful images with it.

Mo The advice that the guy at the camera store gave you is ABSOLUTELY WRONG. It will not fix the problem but only cause additional problems. Any lubricant that softens up is likely to run to parts of the camera where it should not be, causing further, new problems. It is clear that you should not let this technician get anywhere near your camera. He is almost certain to damage it (unintentionally), and then blame the camera. A standard clean including removing old, hardened lubricants, application of new lubricant and adjustment is not "a lot of work" ; it is absolutely routine, standard and normal when servicing ANY mechanical camera from any manufacturer. There are many repairers who will do an excellent job, without any complaints. I recommend Foto-Service Olbrich, Görlitz and Baierfoto, for instance, both in Germany, and other repairers in other countries. I believe that there are expert repairers of this camera in the Netherlands. See some contact details here: pentaconsix.com/repairers.htm However, I cannot be sure that all repairers listed there are still in business, and of course there are many good repairers who do not appear on that page.

Glad you liked it. Thank you! (When I can get someone to hold a camera I will make some more videos.)

No, multiple exposures are not possible with the Pentacon Six. They are possible with the Norita 66, but the procedure is a little complicated.

Oh, then there is a video here with wrong information... Thank you

Thank you for the information. It's not a video by me. Do you have the link to it?

We have a whole generation of new picture-takers growing up who know nothing about classic cameras and lenses. When they notice the limitations of their phone or their small digital camera, they try to go for something better. But there is a lot of learning to do -- about apertures, focal lengths, depth-of-field, focus, shutter speeds, etc. Much of the vocabulary is new to them. I try to help some of those people through the explanations on my website, and through these videos.

Hello You tube has only today notified me of your query. I apologise for the long delay in replying. It is always better to e-mail me via my website, www.pentaconsix.com The lens needs to be serviced. The lubricant has hardened and needs to be replaced. This is a standard procedure for a lens technician -- not a job for the amateur, as the lens needs to be taken apart, cleaned, relubricated and then reassembled.

If the camera and the lens are in good cosmetic and working condition, US$150 is a good price, from a buyer's point of view, even if the prism is a plain (non-metering) prism. If it is a TTL metering prism, the price is a bargain, assuming that everything works. However, when I buy a Pentacon Six that has probably not been used for years, I always send it and the lens for a full service (clean, re-lubrication and adjustment), before using it to take pictures. Even allowing for that, the price sounds very good, from the buyer's point of view.

Thank you for a quick response. it has dials on top. i think it's TTL prism metering . in mint, almost looks like unused condition. thank you again sir. more power & God bless.

For general information on the prisms, see here: www.pentaconsix.com/Prisms.htm You can see more on the metering prism here: www.pentaconsix.com/metering.htm That page also has links to my KZfaq videos on how to operate the prism. God bless you.

Hello Sergey Thank you for writing. You are of course correct that it is not possible to buy a new Pentacon Six -- although it is surprising how many of them are offered for sale that seem never to have been used. However, the newest Pentacon Six will have been made 26 years ago, in 1990, and if it has not been used for years -- or at all! -- it almost certainly WILL need a service, in which the old lubricants will be removed, the camera cleaned, and new lubricants added, followed by a full check and adjustment if necessary. However, the repairer does not need to be in the same city, and after a service like this, the camera should work well for years, probably decades, if used regularly. I speak on the basis of my own experience over a period of 39 years (since 1977). Best wishes from "Mr Pentacon Six" -- still getting great results with a Pentacon Six

+Kimberly Ceralde Glad you found it helpful.

Hello As you can see, this lens was not made in East Germany, which, I believe, never made zoom lenses for any of its cameras. In the late 1980s, Pentacon started marketing zoom lenses for its "B" (bayonet) series 35mm cameras, but these lenses were all made in the Far East and are not Zeiss nor Meyer-Optik Görlitz lenses. I have never owned this lens, and sold my Praktica B series cameras years ago, so I am not an expert on this lens. It is for 35mm cameras and my speciality is the medium format Pentacon Six. f/4.5 is its maximum aperture, and like almost all lenses, it has a range of aperture settings. I would suggest that you normally aim to use it at an aperture of f/8 or f/11, depending on the film used (or chosen sensor speed), the ambient lighting and the shutter speed required. I would encourage you to read this: www.pentaconsix.com/focus.htm Even though it uses Pentacon Six lenses to explain focus and depth of field, the principles apply to any lens, including yours. You will also find the following link helpful: www.pentaconsix.com/exposure.htm The numbers on the macro side of your lens indicate how large items that you photograph will be on your film (or sensor, if you use it via an adapter on a digital camera). 1:9 means that the image will be recorded one-ninth of its original size. Obviously in a photographic print or on a screen this recorded image will be enlarged, possibly even up to life-size or more. 1:6 means one-sixth, etc. With a macro lens, the closer one can get to 1:1 (life-size on the film or sensor), the better, as this will enable enlargements to (much) larger than life-size that still retain detail and even show detail that is unlikely to be visible with the naked eye. Hope this helps! Mr Pentacon Six

+Péter Várnai I am glad that it has helped you. Enjoy using the camera to produce great pictures!

MarcS4R No one has ever paid me to say that the Pentacon Six is a great camera. I have a Hasselblad 500 cm, but I really prefer the Pentacon Six. It is easy to use and it never lets me down.

Prodan Giovani No; differences are merely cosmetic (slight differences of style). Older lenses are likely to be single-coated and newer ones may be multi-coated, but if they are, the letters "MC" should appear on the lens.

Pentacon Six Expert thank you for the information; i have a nikon d3300 and have successfully used it with a Meyer Orestor 135mm f2.8, the adaptor has an optical element but the IQ really is good, no loss in IQ. I want to get a Pentacon 300 mm for bird watching, it's a really awesome piece of equipment, do you consider it sharper than a Tair 3S 300mm ? I tried the Tair, and I was pretty impressed

Prodan Giovani I haven't done side-by-side tests with these two lenses. The Tair 3S is a version for 35mm-format cameras of the Tair 33, a lens for medium format cameras which famously won a gold medal in the Brussels EXPO in 1958. The 300mm Meyer is probably a slightly older design, but I have obtained excellent results with it. I have done several detailed tests with the 500mm Meyer-Optik, Görlitz lens (also known as "Pentacon") and the results have been superb. It is one of the best 500mm lenses. It is only because I also have the 300mm Carl Zeiss Jena Sonnar that I haven't used the Meyer/Pentacon 300mm lens so much, but I would expect outstanding results with it. Both the Meyer and the Tair lenses have a manual aperture, even on medium format cameras like the Pentacon Six -- but most lenses, even those that have an auto aperture, end up as manual when mounted via an adapter on a 35mm (or smaller) camera, regardless whether film-based or digital. The Tair has 4 elements in 3 groups, the Pentacon has 5 elements in 4 groups. However, with the longer focal lengths it is too simple to suppose that the more elements, the better the lens. Many 4-element lenses deliver superb results. The 500mm Pentacon/Meyer is an example of this.

Pentacon Six Expert Thank you for the information, I'll see what I can afford to buy and if I'll get the pentacon 300 mm I'll post some results ! Thanks again, very informative and professional.