Just these specifically in the video, at least at a higher voltage. Officially all of the chips are constant current but at 5v, there just isn't any headroom and they don't end up working that way.

I think this is very fair price for what you get. You must not understand cost of components used in

hi, I'm one of the boneIO founder, we haven't yet have all the paperwork ready to sell to US and we have to found a way to ship to USA. All the offers so far were 15% of the device so it's too much to be affordable. It'd be around 450$.

Someone on the discord server would be able to answer your question

Sure but it's quite simple. VCC goes into power output of the board, GND goes into GND and then DI goes to LED1 and BI (backup data input) goes into GND, that's it! Select ws2805 in WLED 0.v15-beta and it works fine with the boards.

​@@IntermitTechthank you.

I use the Aixen T3A and generally solder at 380c the station is 180w I believe, it's quite powerful but the tip used makes a lot of difference, you want a big tip thar has a lot of mass then you can deliver the power without needing a very high temp. Check it here quinled.info/2018/10/01/tools-and-equipment/#t3a

Yes, it's either too slow or way too fast. Too slow I should have been able to see on my thermal camera since it would heat up so too fast is likely the culprit but I've already slowed it down some in some attempts after the stream (when I fix it, but it breaks after every try). Probably still not enough though, I will be looking more into it. :) Thank you for the comment!

So today I slowed down the MOSFET and thus the 48v massively, I can see the MOSFET turning on slow with thermals but it doesn't exceed 60c or so still sometimes just die, the MOSFET turning on the timer for the 555 too, it's confusing.

@@IntermitTech MOSFET for 48V: Feel free to try this if you haven't already: Remove all capacitors between GND and 48V on the transmitter circuit board. Set your power supply's current limit to 1A. Try several times to connect the receiver. If the MOSFET works, try raising your power supply's current limit until it starts to break again. MOSFET for 555: Feel free to try this if you haven't already: Connect a diode "D1" between the MOSFET's gate and the rj45 connector, "D1's" cathode to the rj45, to protect against positive spikes from the cat 6 cable. Connect a diode "D2" between GND and "D1's" cathode, "D2's" cathode to "D1's" cathode, to attenuate negative spikes from the cat 6 cable. Connect decoupling capacitor in parallel with "D2" to dampen interference from the cat 6 cable, a long cat 6 cable is a "good" antenna. If you don't want this MOSFET to drop the 5 Volt when shorted, connect a suitable resistor between its gate and "D1's" anode.

Not yet! I am also thinking it's the signal to the p-channel turning on the main MOSFET but not sure yet if it's either too slow or too fast. 😅

For sure, check out this one, it will teach you how to actually calculate everything instead of random guessing or "I used this" which you indeed often see. quinled.info/the-ultimate-led-strip-power-injection-guide/

@@IntermitTech Thank you sir 🙏

@@IntermitTech This helped greatly. You personally like 18 gauge as per your site's comments. And this comment helped greatly too, assuming I understand it correctly, "If you are, for instance, single feeding a 100w LED strip which runs at 24v and needs 5 meters of cable this requires 4,16A of power and thus a wire thickness of 0.75mm2 to transfer it over those 5 meters. If you however double feed the cable (from both ends) the requirement per cable is only ~2A so thinner cables can be used!" So you're saying that if we power inject at both ends this can halve the wire gauge requirements, is that right? My system will be 13 meters of WS2812B LEDs. I have a 12V 25A 300W LED power bank and the system will appear to use 12V 22A 260W. Since 18 gauge wire can support up to 16A (according to Google) and I'm power injecting from start and end, I should be able to use 18 gauge wire at start and end to balance the load. What type of fuse would you suggest I use, 2 x 13A fuses for the start and end power injection sites?

So almost. If the total your strip needs is 4A, a single injection will be able to deliver it 4A and thus you calculate the cable length an diameter you need for the to stay under 10% drop. If you now however power front + end because of resistance on the strip it will automatically load balance between the two cables and thus each will only carry a maximum of 2A and thus you can again calculate cable diameter needed to stay below 10% drop for each given length. In your other example however if you need 22A total this means you will need front + middle + end for 4A + 8A + 4A for up to 16A you can inject and still won't be able to reach that 22A you calculated to need. Thus it becomes front + middle + Middle + end. That gives you the potential to do 4+8+8+4 and thus 24A in total covering the 22A you calculated you'd need. Then you take each injection and put the expected power number + length of that injection from the power supply in a voltage drop calculator, stay below 10% drop and that will give you the cable diameter required for it to work correctly. Although 18AWG might not melt from 16A, it might transport that with 0.2v voltage drop for a 10cm wire or 6v voltage drop for a 10m wire. It's a current + distance equation! Hope it helps! P.s you seem to be mixing 5v LEDs with a 12v power supply? And your numbers for current for those LEDs seem very high, did you calculate using 50% white as explained in my video?

@@IntermitTech Apologies, the LEDs are WS2815, 12V. Looking on your data sheet it has the white LEDs at 50% as 27.00 (watts?) So over 13 metres that's going to be 70.2 watts in total. So my LED power driver should be, say, 150 watts / 12V = 12.5A (in the event I want to increase the brightness % slightly) Full brightness seems to cap out around 51watts per strip for all red. At 13 metres that's 132.6 watts of red at 100% brightness. Is this right? Getting the power right is the hardest thing! 🤯

It kind of ended in a livestream where we built the whole setup and demonstrated it, try and look it up! It's been running like that for quite a while now! :)

Did you use a generic one or the one we provide? Ours has the Audio Reactive usermod compiled in.

@@IntermitTech the one you provided. Everything is OK but then when I update because I saw that there’s new version then the sound reactive not working.

Hmm, that's odd, the binaries we provide should have it included. If you can come to the Discord server we might be able to help out!

@@IntermitTech the sound settings features also missing so I tried to search on how to restore the original firmware because on version 14 & 15 that features is missing

If you flash the version on install.quinled.info it really should be there, try flashing using USB.

Thank you for the kind words! Yes with 12v a lot can be achieved, I have since this video also posted the following, it will help you figure things out: quinled.info/the-ultimate-led-strip-power-injection-guide/

That really depends, the best way is to have a fused distribution point like a Dig-Quad or Dig-Octa. You run the 60A into there and the split up the wires and calculate each wire diameter as needed. You then fuse for that wire diameter and everything is safe. There is no one size fits all. 18AWG might be fine for a 5A injection at 2m/6ft but it's horrible wrong for a 5A injection at 10m/32ft. Give this a watch and you'll understand and know how to do it perfectly safe: quinled.info/the-ultimate-led-strip-power-injection-guide/

@@IntermitTech Thanks. Appreciate the help.

Awesome to hear!