Dziękuję za pytanie. Na jednym uchwycie trudnoczytelny stempel H39, co odpowiada wydaniu z 1939 roku. Z poważaniem.

Thanks for the comment!

Thank you 😊

I completely agree with you. I just had a large diameter aluminum tube available, so I ground it off on one side to show the crimping work. Most likely the detonator cap was pushed inside the tool and the cable was inserted into it.

Yes, and it is advisable to apply the cold bluing fluid several times, so the coating will be more uniform.

Thank you very much for your comment! There is my email in the channel description, write to me there, I will provide you with the dimensions of the pattern and brass elements. When making leather scabbards, I only use original fittings; to make fittings from 0, you need to make mandrels, and you need to have the necessary material, and this is a problem. Unfortunately, I don’t make anything to order at the moment; all my time is spent on creating video content for my KZfaq channel. And so I constantly sew various copies of historical things from leather (frogs, pendants, holsters, and so on). In the summer I plan to release a video about how I will make a copy of a Luger Artillery holster from 0. If viewers are interested in the topic of making copies of leather equipment, write in the comments, I’ll try to please you with something!

Thank you very much!

Thank you 😊

Thank you

Спасибо за ваше мнение. У всех пряг была нарушена геометрия, некоторые были изъедены коррозией, оставлять в таком виде даже удалив механически рыхлые окислы для меня не приемлемо. Это дело вкуса. Это не редкие пряги, чтобы оставлять их без вмешательства. Пряжка артиллериста не подвергалась нагреву, рельеф не пострадал, со временем у нее появится кабинетная патина. Остальным пряжкам была нанесена искусственная патина, чтобы выделить рельеф и скрыть следы пайки.

Thank you! 😊

Thank you for your opinion.

This tool is a constrictor (Detonator Cap Crimping Pliers). It allows a crimping of aluminum caps on a detonating cord. Used by German sappers in World War II. Watch the full video on the channel!

Thank you!😊

Странно. При добавлении музыки, ее громкость была выставлена на уровень 100%. При прослушивании также музыка звучит громко, возможно у вас что-то с настройками.

Thanks for the question. Cold bluing can be applied to the outside, but for preservation it is better to boil the inside in waste oil. At temperature, hot oil penetrates the pores of the metal and prevents rust or preserves surface rust. In addition, according to the alkaline oxidation technology (real bluing), it is necessary to boil in oil, this is preservation.

There will be many projects on the First World War and the Second World War, and some projects will be shown on KZfaq for the first time.

Can't wait :) Thanks for the quick answer.

Thank you 👍

On one handle you can see the hard-to-read H39 stamp (at 14:16 in the video), which corresponds to similar Wehrmacht instruments. To make sure that this is a German instrument, you can look at the same instrument on the website fjm44.com/product/pioner-crimp-tool

Thank you very much. I tried to make the handles as similar to the original as possible.

Thank you very much for your kind words and useful advice! Will definitely use it in the future!

¡Muchas gracias por tus palabras de apoyo!

@@Restoration.LetsGetStarted omojomm

Thank you for your opinion

Nice video

Merci beaucoup!!!😀

Merci beaucoup. J'essaierai de restaurer des choses plus intéressantes à l'avenir.

@@Restoration.LetsGetStarted avec joie mais ceux ci l étaient déjà🙂

Unfortunately, there is very little information on this tool. Perhaps viewers from Germany can give us a hint. In German this thing is called Wűrgezange.

This tool is a constrictor (Detonator Cap Crimping Pliers). It allows a crimping of aluminum caps on a detonating cord. Used by German sappers in World War II.

Muchas gracias!

Thank You!

Thank You!

Thank You!