@stephencarr7173 it depends on heads and cam. FK7's and W110's are about the biggest cams we've run with it and they run great

We can ship international Priority Mail as an option on our site: www.red-emotorsports.com/shop/Spraybar-Cooling-assist-p625289860

@@red-emotorsports1212 i speek about the injection EFI kit with trottle body (40) ....

Our other video with the installation on the blue Beetle shows our "CLT" sensor mounting location. We do not recommend it reading off oil temperature since heads can be fully warmed up while oil is still cold causing the cold start enrichment to run longer, or indefinitely in cold enough weather causing poor fuel consumption and washing out the cylinders from the excess fuel

@@red-emotorsports1212 thank you

If equal CFM as a carb, it would not be any more power than a properly tuned set of carbs. The throttle bodies to flow about 10% more cfm than the same size carburetor so you can get gains there if the engine can use it. The real gain is the constantly tuned state of being on the engine, regardless of elevation changes, no more plugged jets, etc.

We have all of our EFI kits listed here: www.red-emotorsports.com/shop/Aircooled-VW-Fuel-Injection-c157866091/

@@red-emotorsports1212oh wow it cost as much as an engine engine.

We've run this on our shop truck for 3 years now, no issues thus far in that regard.

Due to the lack of manifold heat we don't offer a Sniper system for the Type4, but we do offer a dual IDF system with the same self learn Holley software: www.red-emotorsports.com/shop/Type-4-&-914-dual-IDF-style-c157944817

ok cool, how does this effect fuel economy? @@red-emotorsports1212

That's what comes with the Redline manifold.

Empi's manifold doesn't have preheat all the way up to the base of the flange. Manifold heat is key for peak performance in our opinion

@@red-emotorsports1212 Thanks for sharing. So for a large displacement motor that doesn’t have heat risers, would you recommend against this kit? I’m planning to put a 2180 in my beetle with a Gilmore a/c kit. Dual carbs makes an already tight fit even worse in that case. Would love a center mount option.

It's more hp based than displacement, but we would venture naturally aspirated through stock end castings to be limited somewhere around 130-140hp?

Thank you, next tested would be to find a consistently available turbo header so make a complete turbo kit

We have both 12mm and 14mm thermocouple options! www.red-emotorsports.com/shop/Spraybar-Cooling-assist-p625289860

@@red-emotorsports1212 how long until you start shipping if I pre-order now

@superveganwhat I just got a few more boards in stock so I can have a few ready to go by end of this week

@@red-emotorsports1212 OK cool I’m gonna order one now. wish I knew about these before I set my compression! But anyway living in Northern Nevada I think this is an awesome idea

Yes!

The top of the throttle body is slightly larger than a 34pict carb. You can fit a rubber based air filter meant for a Solex but not steel. Plastic housing may fit if you carefully heat with a heat gun and open it up a bit but we haven't tried. There's enough meat on the throttle body casting to possibly have a competent machinist cut it down to the proper size

Tach signal, either off the negative side of the ignition coil, or if you have a CDI it would have to be on the tach output of the CDI box

Exactly! Easy to go overboard with water on a hot cylinder head. We have the nozzles dialed in on this one

@@red-emotorsports1212 excellent video! What are your starting prices looking to be like?

@@JamesDavis-jo9tk at the end of the video we have a link to our "shop" on the screen to purchase. We are about to make another batch of them in the next week or two www.red-emotorsports.com/shop/

You can look around in the car, all the way around. Click and drag your way around the car

It doesn't. It takes a surprisingly small amount of water to make a big difference. It's pretty effective and pretty efficient.

If a local has us install one we definitely will

I do not see anything on my end. We are looking to have more kits as soon as more circuit boards show up (expected date Feb 8 - 11)

@@red-emotorsports1212 I just followed the link again and this time it took me to another page for payment and such. I unfortunately was unable to order as it said $33.00+ for shipping. I can send a type one flywheel from San Diego to NY for that! Sorry, that is just nuts shipping charges to San Diego. Great product though.

@@benkanobe7500 We can make it fit Priority Flat Rate, but with insurance that still comes to $23. Message us on FB or email if you'd like us to find other shipping options. KZfaq comment section is a inconvenient place for us to keep up on.

​ @benkanobe7500 I still get $30.09 from UPS to ship to San Diego going through it manually rather than having our website calculate so it's not too far off. Sorry shipping companies are too much, it's really out of our hands.

@@desertsasquatchxploration1568 When he was talking about different fans and shrouds not helping the heads I assumed that his mister system would be at the heads. For hot head problems I'm guessing it would need one for each cylinder, or at least one centrally located at each end to get increased head cooling without over cooling the cylinders. I've never run into temp problems on a VW so I never gave it much thought.

Nope. Dead wrong. It isn't the water cooling the heads. It is the latent heat of evaporation. The same reason your body sweats. The same reason your refrigerator/freezer cools. Its physics 101. When the water hits the heads it evaporates. When a liquid like water changes state from liquid to gas it requires heat (endothermic reaction) that heat has to come from somewhere. In the case of this water injection system, that heat comes from the heads and some from the cylinder fins. Unless the rules of the universe change, this system will work perfectly 100% of the time as long as the cylinder/heads are hot enough to evaporate the water. Before you were born cars used to have bags hung in front of the radiator when crossing the desert or climbing the mountains. These bags had small holes in them allowing a small amount of water to leak out and be blown back on the hot radiator and engine. When that water evaporated it took a ton of heat from the radiator and engine keeping the engine cool under very harsh conditions. The exact same science as the water spray injection in this KZfaq.

@@desertsasquatchxploration1568 Where does the air in the shroud come from? The fan of course. Spraying into the fan puts it directly into the shroud.

@@benkanobe7500 I know the mechanism behind water's cooling effect, and note that I stated "making the air cooler" not 'wetting the engine'. And you're wrong about the heads needing to be hot enough to evaporate the water, as long as the air can evaporate the water it will have a cooling effect even if the heads are dead cold.

@@DonziGT230 Thank you for correcting me. I was considering the readership and your comment about how to wet the engine. You are really smart. We all should have figured it out by your well written technical explanation of endothermic reactions.

Do you add a Version with porsche cooling?

I have had different results myself. I did a block off plate to eliminate the stock cooler completely, and head temps were the same on the same test drive before and after. Head Temps mirrored the previous drive on each hill and downhill. I've honestly never been able to make pil affect my head temps my any significant amount. I have found same for same synthetic oil dropped oil temps 15-iah degrees without affecting head temps, and during these tests with the oil cooling removed completely I observed head temp was directly affected by engine load while oil temps were affected with rpm. I.e. floored uphill with lower rpms oil temp goes down, head temp climbs, and going downhill with light throttle head temps dropped and oil temps actually climbed. 20 years later I still consider the two mostly unrelated to eachother. That's just what I observe anyway. Individual results may vary

@@red-emotorsports1212 Yes. I would imagine that that did not change much. You need to increase flow to the heads significantly. Think "modified" Hoover mods or thereabouts. So like I mentioned, it is not something you just do. That has to be thought into the project from the beginning. Oil galley, lifter supply, lifters, pushrods etc. everything needs to be designed to move more oil. Then the temperature decrease at the heads become visible as does the increase in oil temps. This is why I noted that the oil cooling system needs to have a little over capacity. But that mist system is an easy way of taking the edge out of the temps under load.

I think it would evaporate almost instantly maybe!

Boosted would require the standard throttle bodies (Heritage are not sealed shafts). We can add an external MAP sensor for boost as well as configure crank trigger so you have full timing control through boost as well if needed. Systems like that we recommend getting ahold of us via email to put together something

I'm Germany? Where? You should see my t2 I drive every day with it 😁

We ate working on becoming a Holley dealer to offer it complete, but for now you have to purchase the Sniper 1100 and send it to us for mods, etc. www.red-emotorsports.com/shop?store-page=Holley-Sniper-1100-c157871615