@@adesokanazeez3516 John Hughes dealer, WA, Perth.

@@Gadomaitis please, how can i get there contact, i don have any dealer around here

@@adesokanazeez3516 where are you from?

@@Gadomaitis Nigeria

@@adesokanazeez3516 I think it's better for you to luck for that part in Europe, continent looks much closer

Maybe if it started to oxidize, aliuminium needs a special treatment and the key might be that primer, as he commented. I will try to paint it this way

50% of 2'nd hand car market to Lithuania comes from Germany, personally, I haven't seen rust buckets arriving from Germany, like we do have here in Lithuania, people are choosing to buy 7 years old car from Germany rather same used car from Lithuania, because of the rust. I was wondering, what's the secret, no salt in street during winter, wax after buying it new? Appreciate your answer, I will paint it your way.

Hi, thanks. I would love to say, that I do, but not for bodywork. Mechanic- yes, my buddy runs a car service in Joniskis, I'm taking my T3 there if I have no time to do something by my self. If you are passing by Joniskis, I can share his contacts.

Hi again. Thanks for the answer. Is he doing all kinds of mechanical work on T3s.

Hi, on various cars, he is not working specifically with T3, he just never failed on me, even though I have asked to do not to much for my T3 of course :)

It just can't go into the gear, feels like there is no gear like, like a wall? Sounds like an internal shift control problem that is situated under the battery. Just a guess.

@@Gadomaitis that's right, my friend! in order to go down from fifth gear to third, I have to move the lever to the left in neutral and then put it in third... otherwise it doesn't click with anything. when the car is cold, I don't have any problem.I will put some grease on the outside of the mechanism under the battery

Hi, have you sorted it out? I'm thinking of a bad ground connection.

Hello, no I haven’t solved the problem yet. Do you think de should change the oil température probe and put a little stronger ?

@@lorenzocassar4525 Have you checked that engine oil pressure switch with multitester when revving up to 2000? It must work correctly, otherwise, you will have that buzzer buzzing. My advice not to delete it in any case. I remember I had such an issue when revving more than 2000 rpm, the buzzer started to buzz, but my problem was not a switch, it was the oil pump pickup screen half-clocked with silicon rubber from my rebuilds. Cleaning that screen in the oil sump solved the buzzer problem.

@@Gadomaitis ok merci, je vais approfondir mes recherches.

Hi, my self, I haven't faced such an issue, I am bad adviser in this matter.

I had few accidents already with this car, so it was not just a matter of rust repair. Thanks! I saw a video with pro spray painter having special light on the gun, I thought it must be expensive, so I have found my own solution. I must say, when I was spraying base, usually I was finishing with base earlier and only next day realizing that it's missing few coats. Yep, to avoid flies, wind and dust.

Thank you. Don't know about the app, but for sure you can always send sms to the device too cut off the relay, though Extra wires must be connected to the relay.

Hi, interesting, maybe, just a gues, missing any important fluid like brakes?

@@Gadomaitis no nothing is missing everything works as it should just red light do not drive steering defective. I done wheel aligment and next day this light come on my eletrician said sometimes after wheel aligment rack gets some vibration and thats how it becomes faulty.

@@mynde7275 very intriguing, have you tried spin the steering wheel to the left and then to the right end?

@@Gadomaitis yes i try everything. Checked all the fuses, disconnect battery for 10min, spin wheel both ends, checked all wiring cant see anything unusual. My mechanic saying i will have to change all rack but thats what they always say lazy to locate problem just change the whole thing. My only chance that there is some glitch in rack module or some wire is faulty 😔 my steerin wheel spinnig very light or easy just how it suppose to be or maybe even lighter.

@@mynde7275 the funny thing would be, if you would change the whole rack and it will throw same fault. those mechanics are, i would say- lazy cunt or lack experience :D

Hi, I think it's not supported.

@@Gadomaitis grazie , infatti non va .

Thank you!

Sy amigo!

Thanks! I believe it works

Thanks!

Can not agree with you more.

Ignition timing was off , after adjusting it got fixed

Doesn't see satellites but sends updates? It's 2G model, but if those sim cards support 2G it should send data.

@@Gadomaitis It says Sim Status: Ready, GPRS Status: Activated, Signal Level: Good Signal. It sends some data like 100b very low.

@@PejovicMilos so it's not 3g/4g card issues.

@@Gadomaitis I never expected it to need to have clear sky above in order to be visible. Thanks for help. I was on 10th floor next to window and it havent worked until device was bellow the sky directly.

@@PejovicMilos yes, for the very first start it needs open area. Cheers, G.

Yes!

Does it start fast? I would doubt it. What faults does diagnostic gives?

@@Gadomaitis yes it's start,but no have power

@@Gadomaitis i don't have faults

Car has no faults, or you haven't done diagnostic?

@@Gadomaitis i done diagnostic and no faults,the car 1.9 AFN 110

Hi, the problem was, that there where no refence ( not dedicated to anything) , that's why I have checked all of them. You can find Aprox fuse location in the video.

I didn't had problems. Return oil should return easily to the oil sump, I have heard, that otherwise you might have engine oil in exhaust pipes.

Hi, to be honest, I don't know. If I were you, I wouldn't bother myself if there is a little play, even though it ain't supposed to be. Secondhand pumps in Lithuania are cheap to buy and replacing the seals doesn't cost too much if I'm doing it by my self.

I do not use my T3 nowadays to much, but it still holds

Nickel plating would require a lot more time& knowledge. Maybe next time. It's not visible, but on the powder it was said, it can withstand up to 170 C°, I haven't checked, but I thought, standart bulb would not reach that high.

Hi, you can check at this video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jspgbJWam5avhoU.htmlsi=bthWixNmnLwHNRhp&t=451 , this bolt can bolt can be unscrewed on car

On the reflector? Yes road salt corrosion, white crystals

the glass had oxidation marks on the inner side of the glass, but it was enough to polish it from inside. No visible rock marks on the outer glass side. Are you sure salt blasting it would not damage the glass?

@@Gadomaitis I've learned from a powder painter (who use metal blasting and others) that I could get back to life and polish my old vanagon glass with salt blasting. I'm not at that point of the restauration yet of the t3 so I haven't tested it yet, since you have the materials to sandblast you should check it out

Interesting, I will give it a try, definitely not on T3 headlight in the beginning

Thanks, let me know, how did it go!

I think were lucky

Kai turiu visokių tai įrankių, taip ir norisi viską pilnai išnaudoti.

Just because it wasn't in the kit and i forgot to buy one.

@@Gadomaitis first time you will use a electric lift pump to feed vp37 properly for highed power levels... that seal will fail. If i would pull ot the pump and then seen i haven't all the seals needed for a complete job, i would let alone until i get that seal which missing. Just to not work twice for the same thing.

@@napraznicul Last time I used gravity feed to fill the pump, anyways this was my first attempt working on an injection pump and I can see that I'm fortunate, that it didn't fail from spinning completely dry after assembly. I wasn't to bothered about that seal, correct me if I'm wrong, the seal can be replaced without removing the injection pump from the engine? Not me, sometimes I need to redo my work three times, even though I do not want it and I would love not to come back.

@@Gadomaitis Yes, that seal could be replaced even with pump on position (on engine), before to fix pump gear. Your pump isn't feed by gravity, but by suction made by mechanical feed pump which is integrated in the front part of the vp37 pump. It make some 0.4bar of suction from the filter>fuel tank. at stock diameters of fuel lines. PS: using some thick grease and gravity (on lifters to incline car in the sense of keeping parts inside pump) you could reseal the pump easily ON THE ENGINE SUPPORT. Only for the front seal you have to pull out timming belt, obviously. You were lucky to choose correct position for that plate which can be put in two positions (0-180°). At my first try i wasn't very careful and assembled pump with plate in wrong position 🤣.. never start engine, just make nasty smoke - very wrong moment of injection.

@@napraznicul I meant last time I filled the pump with diesel from external bottle above the pump (gravity feed). Intresting, I was pretty sure you can't replace seals on the engine, just because of those lifters :D Good to know, I will keep it in mind. I can feel you, you know that ring on the shaft? The one that has a hole and into that hole you need to place the pump's head? I was watching my raw video to make sure, it's on the right side

Thanks! Strange, in Lithuania I found it as the best protection against against rusting of trapped water

@@Gadomaitis upol gravitex is really popular for protecting under body.

I see your point

Thanks buddy !!

Thank you

Thanks

Hello, 1. All the time I was using the same 3000 grit abrasive pad, except I didn't like the outcome and I was keep replying the procedure. Later I started to use a slower drill. 2. Cheap polishing compound for car, I have smashed the original package, can' tell exactly. 1 kg of it costs maybe 6 eur. or something. 3. Yes, plain sponge ant buff it with the same sponge. Black, the one I have was quite soft.

Drop me an email, what file you need

It might be, but honestly, I doub't it.

Hi, hard to understand what's the problem, oner CV is bolted, if they make cracking noise you can change only the CV joint

@@Gadomaitis ok the cup that is holding the inner cv it's also has a pley and another problem I have my clutch, to clutch it you have to press it to the floor to get it on gears

Remove the rubber cup with pick, under the cap you will find cirklip and washer. Maybe the washer is placed the loose way, you can try twist it the other way. Does it leaks oil there? Clutch is a complete different story. When I have placed my tdi clutch, I had same thing in the beginning.

@@Gadomaitis yes it does lick oil

Thank you so much for your kind words! I truly appreciate your support. I work hard to provide the best service possible!

Just top seals?

I did that just top seals cause it was leaking but now my car randomly just wants to run into full RPMs any ideas why? @@Gadomaitis

@@defaced6294 can it be something to do with injection quantity? Have you checked values, are they spot on?

I did top seals replacement (the two square ones) yesterday on a VP37 5 cylinder yesterday and same problem : engine runaway. The head must be out of alignement, I did not make any marks during dissasselby. Do you know how to correctly align it without marks ?

@@Morgan-hs9ey look closely to bolt marks, are they back to exactly same places? If you have diagnostic tool, check injection quantity( injection pump head location responsible for injection quantity) If you don't have, unscrew fourr bolts and try taping the head with hammer, you will notice the difference.

Sorry, not my field.

Good to know

Using same U clips