@@joshuawilson371 looks like link to the portal is gone. SLFU is usually not bad with a phone call if you want to check status, but I have yet to hear back from anyone with a cert in hand. I submitted mine in November and no news here.

@@user-og5ff4rj7c someone clued me in that you can usually find bugouts a little cheaper locally than online, I got mine for $120. The iridium is a great buy, and the blade on mine was ground significantly better than the bugout from the factory. I am starting to experience some vibration in the bearings though, might switch it with a set of washers instead. I'm just now getting to know some of Benchmade's offerings and like what I see. Kershaw has some great foreign-made options for much cheaper and their USA blades are usually great as well. I need to get my hands on a Bel Air and see how that stacks up.

@@cadedavis2188 rearden recommends rocksett and 15-25 ft*lb torque between the muzzle device and the barrel. Once the adapter is mounted into the suppressor, just hand tighten the can onto the mount and it'll stick plenty. I've taken mine out a few times, including one class, and it has always been a deliberate action to remove the can from the seat on the muzzle device.

Also, I used a tiny bit of rocksett between the adapter and my suppressor body. Probably not necessary, but it's added peace of mind.

@@2657296 everything's a compromise. Keymo is definitely quicker, but for my intended use, I don't think rapid attachment or detachment of a suppressor is going to win the day.

The hole on the barrel lug end is oversized. Thankfully when it's assembled there's no way for the link to come out in the gun and hasn't caused an issue with function. There are a few ways to shrink the ID of the hole in the lugs to get a tighter fit, I might do that some day just so I don't lose the pin as easily when I'm tearing the gun down.

@@rjg02005 Brownell's and Midway sell oversized link pins.

@@fnjay24 I rocksett all of my muzzle devices to the barrel and put a tiny bit of rocksett in the mount-to-can threads. The threads on the can side probably won't need it if you torque the mount down properly, but I did it for added peace of mind because I don't really plan on swapping mounts that often going forward.

Misspoke. The fillet tool in solidworks is what I'd use to make a breakedge feature, so that's where my brain went. These links do not have machined chamfers.

@@jquint57 I don't claim to be an expert.

That's the answer a Redcoat would give.

It shoots better though. If I cared more about the looks I would have paid more than zero dollars. To each their own.

If you've got a suppressor mounted, I don't think it matters much either way. I'd choose more based on the shooting you plan to do when you don't have a can on the rifle. If there is a possibility of indoors or in proximity to other people (within about 6' or so) I'd recommend a flash hider. If it's a range-toy only, then a brake is great for that extra bit of recoil reduction.

@@rjg02005 hey I appreciate the response!! I do plan to keep it on there most of the time and then I didn’t know if the muzzle break disperse the gas in the suppressor better or not! Thank you!

@@WantDaSmoke a direct mount will give you the most internal volume. People say a brake will act as a "sacrificial baffle" and prolong your suppressor life but I don't think that's very realistic for what most shooters are able to put through their guns in a lifetime.

It's literally sold by HK as the "Law Enforcement Modification."

@@rjg02005 it seems too light like a drawstring could or shirtail could discharge it and no way are any police depts using that mod, that being said its your gun and mod it as you will and those HK are the most dependable durable polymer duty gun ever made , I have a few HK . .

This is my safety 👉

The only time I noticed the issue was when I took the video, and the circle went away after swapping the battery. My best guess is that a very narrow range of voltages does something funky with the circuit board. Hope you don't need a replacement. Let me know how it turns out, if you don't mind.

Changed out battery and I still have the circle dot. Not sure whether to return it or see if I like the circle dot reticle

Thanks again! Stance was the first thing I noticed from this video. I didn't feel particularly stable shooting that drill. I'll definitely be practicing!

My next can is likely to be a Polonium K. I did a class this past weekend and the can came off the flash hider without an issue at the end.

@@rjg02005 any opinion on if polonium or polonium k would be better on 11.5”?

@@msquared9605 I don't have experience with either the full size polonium or the K. I will say that in the class I just attended, two guys had surefire suppressors, one was a full size and the other was a mini. The full size suppressed both flash and sound much better than the mini, but the mini did a pretty solid job of taking the edge off the concussion, despite the gas flame that ejected from the front of the can with each trigger pull. Both were on sub-16" barreled uppers. (My Enticer S suppressed better than both, btw.) That said, 5.56 is still plenty loud, even with the best suppressors available. Therefore I'm mostly concerned with taking the edge off so I don't entirely blow out my hearing if I have to rip off a handful of rounds indoors without earpro.

@@rjg02005 good points. I’m still waiting to decide between polonium and rc2 but one being under half the price is a pretty good selling point lol my 30cal trash panda suppresses my 16” 5.56 well under hearing safe so I’m not all that worried about trying to get every bit of performance out of a 5.56 dedicated can. Especially for the money, I don’t think it’s possible to be dissatisfied with anything from Otter Creek

Every instructor I've taken classes from has been very understanding of physical limitations of students, and one instructor had a handicap himself. I personally learn so much better in classes than at the range. Besides, if running away from a fight is less of an option for you...

100% I'm definitely bending around the rifle and not shooting from a natural body position.

Can confirm the range in the first few minutes was Blue Trail. It's a great public range and I've only had good experiences with the staff. Second range one was a private one at an undisclosed location.

Because tolerance stacking. This frame started its life as an 80% and I drilled the slide release hole and cut the rails. On top of that, both the barrel and slide were not drop-in parts, so there was quite a bit of fitting that needed to take place before I got to the barrel link. Proper lock-up and barrel centering to the breach face is much more important than avoiding having to cut the barrel feed ramp. Did the work years ago and it's been flawless since. I even had this gun at the range this past weekend and posted a short on my channel. Let me know if you see anything in the slow-mo that concerns you.

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Not as much as I should. That day I did a drill where I'm walking perpendicular to the target, and then draw from concealment and shoot one round (without stopping movement). First time I tried shooting on the move my fundamentals fell apart. What you can do in an unstressed environment while concentrating is the very best you can hope for while working on more advanced skills.

Solid list!

Nope. Just used in the video as a size comparison to the Readen and DeadAir flash hiders.

Do you know which one works? I have the enticer s and an a2 flash hider

Thanks for the video, too! These things can be very confusing 😕

@@deanmicheljunioralexis2817 i have an FHD and R2S (flash hiders) and a SPB (brake), all by rearden mfg, all mating to the Rearden Atlas in titanium. Anything marketed as being compatible with the "Plan B" mount should work.

Thank you, and wishing you the best with your suppressor(s). Are you currently waiting on paperwork? I feel fortunate that mine was turned around as quickly as it was, but I hear times are shrinking even more.

⁠@@rjg02005paperwork submitted Tuesday, just got the email it was approved today

The instructions for the distribution of the four copies of the DPS-3-c are on the bottom of the form itself: portal.ct.gov/-/media/despp/slfu/firearms/dps-3-c-1.pdf

That's my takeaway as well. The KeyMo has a place, and is definitely more "quick" than the Atlas (which uses the Plan B). I am guessing a lot of the misalignment issues people have noted come from people either not gingerly cranking the suppressor into place or from the collar not being in the correct starting position prior to starting the process. Regarding cost, I can sell my KeyMo adapter second-hand (keeping the muzzle devices) and use the funds to buy both a rearden muzzle device and Atlas new. Haven't sold my KeyMo yet as I might want to use it on a K can down the line, but it's a substantial difference. But the biggest complaint I had was simply weight differences between the two.

It's a good idea to know the condition of your firearm all the time, I think we agree there. That said, I can't think of any case where I'd leave a spent shell in the chamber; seems like a mistake waiting to happen. Every range I've visited required you to show an empty chamber at cease-fire for that reason, shotguns included. I don't mind leaving the gun with a (verified) empty chamber and in cruiser-ready. What I think is dangerous is someone being inconsistent about using the safety. Even worse is when people are teaching the practice of pulling the trigger for the purpose of opening the bolt (rather than for the purpose of firing the gun) when there is a dedicated lever for that task.