If everything is in working order, fan clutch starts engaging around 217.

Is yours 2013 or 2014 +? Thise have different suspensions than the 2010-2012.

I think if I had 37x1250s mine would not rub at all with the control arms I have. Otherwise you will probably need wheel spacers.

@@Ears82 does it just rub at full lock?

@ericestep9880 yes. It could be mainly due to them being mud terrains. I'm not sure if on the next set I'm going with a 12.50 or 13.50 AT.

@@Ears82 I’m thinking about the toyo rt trail. They seem nice looking. 75 pounds each. Not bad. The factory 17’s are 25 pounds each

No problems at all with the firment to the wheels.

Yeah. It's hard to get to sometimes though. This way is more time consuming but easier for me.

Took the words out of my mouth

Sitting in traffic it helps the A/C. It's nice and cold. It's small though. So I think it would need to be a lot bigger to make anymore of a difference.

Fo sho!

37x13.50 on Factory Laramie 17s kzfaq.info/get/bejne/b9yGdteKqrXag6M.html

Whatever the factory wheels are. That's another reason I had to do the control arms. If I went with aftermarket wheels I could have changed the offset some to keep them from rubbing.

Clean truck by the way!!

Just looked at the sway bar and it does have a little bit of a rub mark. They hit the control arms first though. Also, since the control arms are squared off, the tires catch them a little bit more.

I don't think it helped. I've narrowed it down to a problem with the TIPM. I may try to an update video one day. Still looking into it.

3.73. I'm getting about 15mpg average. Its pretty hilly where I'm at. If I was somewhere more flat, fuel mileage would probably be a little bit better.

@@Ears82 thanks for the data.

Its still there. Lol. I've learned to work around it.

rubbing on control arms? was it worth even changing out the arms??@@Ears82

@dirtsky lol! It was definitely worth it. Even if I go down to 12.50s there will be no rub at all unlike if I had the factory control arms. And if I had the factory control arms with these 13.50s I may not be able to even drive it much.

Alpharex Pro-Series G2

I don't believe so. I'm leaning towards an issue with the TIPM now. Its the only problem I have with the whole truck and I don't see anything on the TIPM causing headlight issues in the 11-12 models. So I'm a little hesitant to swap it out until I get some more info or diag done.

Its definitely rough for me without the steps. I have them off right now while I make some plates to reinforce the mounts.

I'm not familiar with that year. Sorry.

Turn one section while holding the other section.

Ive got a 98 and a 99 ram, its the same steps. Use the brake adjustment access window for easy access without removing everything

If its rubbing the back side of the fender liner this will help. I still had a little bit of rubbing on the fender liner itself after doing the control arms. Nothing a heat gun and a bungie hooked to the frame pulling the liner back couldn't fix.

What did you end up doing I have the exact set up as you same problem

@@natejones1502 I trimmed more of wheel liner plastic and ground down pinch weld

could using 1/2" wheel spacers helped?@@DaltonP2156

The one in the center console is my phone charging cable. If thats what you're talking about.

Sometimes it takes a good bit of persuasion for a big hammer. Especially if you live up North.

Swing that hammer like a man.

If it’s rust holding it on, heating and beating it will always work. If the parking break shoes hang on to the rotor, first back the adjuster all the way off from the backside, then the shoes should clear the rusty lip inside the rotor. Or grind the heads off of the two brake shoe retaining pins on the backside of the backing plate, or, swing a big hammer at it until the rotor is in pieces. 👊

I'm pretty sure the ac was on. Its kinda always on for me right now. But I will check maybe tonight if it does it with the ac off.

Mine does it with the AC on or off.