Nice video. Thanks

Hey sir! I hope you're convalescing nicely. I hope life is moderating and things are getting back to normal for you. We are all awaiting your wisdom.

HEY! I shot some sprockets in a yashi 44 too. I may have watched this vid before back when I tried doing this. The results were pretty cool. my favorite thing was that the 44 I had could do double exposures real easy. Kinda wish I hadn't sold the 44. So itsy bitsy and shooting sprockets in the bigger 124G is kind of a pain. Hey if you want a quick laugh check out the short I just posted doing yashica sprocket shots. At least this time I shot verticals so it wasn't too tough lol

Tried it and worked great, HC-110 (1:15) for 6:30s, regular C-41 with extra 15s, so far they look good. Extra blix time as well. Wondering, if I was pushing slide film - have some old stuff I want to test out - how would I adjust my times? Would I develop longer on HC-110 as well as my C41?

Question, what sort of agitation would I use for the first developer? 10s constant than 4 inversions every 30 OR do I treat it like BW film, use ilford method? Thanks!

Is it possible to put an empty 35mm cassette in place of the 127 reel on the take up side? That would make the reloading process much easier.

What sort of agitation would you use for the first developer? Same as what I would use for my BW development - I use usually constant for first 30s followed by 10s every minute? Thanks :)

So would this work if I shoot a normal roll of Kodak Gold say at its native box speed, use the same development for HC-110 times, and same C-41 times OR do I need to do the two stops over? Thanks

Still hanging with you, sir. I know life gets in the way but we're here for you.

Great camera.

I did it with the original box iso at the first time and was a suces but then i pull 2 stops in another roll as youre video sasys but just get a transparent film😂. Im stil trying by the way, is a really good tutorial video👍🏽.

This is for negative films?

hi! nice video and new suscriber here. i want to start innto reversal world, but wanna use ilford B&W paper, did you know if the proportion are the same?

One question: how do you rewind the film?

You are referring to standard C41, but there is no blix, but separate bleach and fixer in the standard process. These are simplified home processing kits, which are compromising the results with the advertised "ease to use". Also, your process does not include conditioner, which should be used for E6 film in order to preserve the colors. This in not done by a standard C41 final rinse. C41 film has stabilizer in emulsion, but E6 film does not. Also, your claim that this is not cross processing is false, because the developing agent used in C41 is different from the one used in E6, CD-4 and CD-3 namely. This will lead to minor color shift. In reality, if the film stock is an expired film manufactured more than 10 years ago, or even more, this probably is the least of your problems.

Will there still be 36 exposures?

You said the hydrogen peroxide + vinegar is resuable, how many times can you use it?

Hello there, Hope you are well. How many percentage was the hydrogen peroxide you used? Thanks.

I have the Zenit-3M (later model) which is very nice. The view finder is not all that dim just not as bright as some more modern Japanese cameras. The Helios-44 58mm f/2 is worth the price of admission alone.

I think you'd get rid of much of the remaining "warm cast" if you did this with one of Cinestill's tungsten-balanced converted Vision3 films. Those are designed to get a little bluer when printed to offset the yellow cast of tungsten light, and might come close to offsetting the orange base when reversed. The 800T would have the additional advantage of giving you a "medium" speed even when pulled two stops. And of course this exact process (without the two stop pull) will produce nice B&W slides if you start with XP2 Super, which has only a faint magenta base tint.

I liked the 1/100] rear shutter tho, & wouldn't the lens 1/1000 be limited to lens used ? Can the regular Speed Graphic sync 5008or 250 w/ electronic strive directly off lens? Using PC flash sync on your favorite auto thyrostor flash gun?

3 years late for the comments section.....something possibly to look at using would be a LCD screen from a Resin 3D printer. you can get 8K and 12K Mono LCD screens spares for 3D printers which dont cost an arm an a leg, if they could be rigged up to display a photo they could be used to create a digital enlarger.

Whoa, this is cool.

Dude, this is awesome. I’ll have to try this. Thanks for the info.

ITS ALL GOING FAST! WERE CLOSEING,!!! COME GET IT

Believe it or not, there was a time when no one had a dichroic colorhead, where you could just dial in the color of your light source for color printing. Home printing did not significantly exist prior to the 1960s, primarily because the color negative printing processes were so terrible that no one wanted to use them. Agfa had one process system used in Europe. Kodak had its different and incompatible system in the US. The rest of the world picked one. Enlargers made from around the mid-60s usually had some sort of slot in the light head to allow insertion of filters, but these were initially intended for use of variable contract filters in B&W printing. As color printing came home, these thin, plastic or gelatin filters were introduced to print color in the same types of filter drawer heads. These filters came in two types. CC filters were for color correction on the camera lens. If physically large enough to cover the film negative, they could be used in printing too. CP filters were for color printing. They were larger, and they were not closely color calibrated like the CC filters, making them cheaper yet adequate for printing. They are also physically tougher to take the handling printing required. Apart from having to shuffle a pack of filters to print color, the additional issue is that they fade with extended use, exposure to bright light. So if you buy these filters to use, try to get them new and unopened, or if opened, pay very little for them. (Pennies, not dollars) Then, some enlarger makers created colorheads which used adjustable color filters built-in. Omega in the US was a leader in this, but those heads also suffered from filter fade over time and were very expensive. In the early 1970s, dichroic color filers came into use. Their unique advantage is that they do not fade. Durst started making these for consumer and higher end enlargers in the early-1970s, and there we are. The under-lens filter holder shown in the video was sold to allow use of filters on enlargers with no filter slot in the light source, but their popularity was that they allowed the use of the smallest filters, which were much less costly than the medium or larger format sized filters required in a filter drawer. The knock on them is that they put the filters under the lens and may degrade the projected image. Tests published at the time showed that this was no problem if the filters were kept clean.

Hi there, thanks for great video, I am processing Ektachrome 8mm film as reversal black and white and using D-76 for developer instead of HC110 , and was wondering how long you recommend to leave it in developer for first stage and second stage which is the positive reversal stage? I have seen some people leave it for 12 minutes like you, some for 15 minutes and some people for 7 minutes, could you please advise? Thanks

Would have been clearer to film the process with just plain paper so the steps could have been demonstrated in the light and just emphasize the need to do it in the dark when using photo paper.

very enlightening, cheers.

Promo SM

I followed link here from Filmboy24, who just today posted a video doing Super 8 E100D (old Ektachrome, not the current stock) with FPP-110 and his homebrew ECN-2 process. I see my own comment below from three years ago. :) My current plan for the several rolls of new E100 (120 size) that I have is to process first dev in Xtol or Parodinal, color dev in Cinestill self-reversing E-6 color dev, and finish with Flexicolor bleach and fix. This should give me more correct colors than C-41 color dev (CD-3 vs. CD-4, some color shifts are expected with C-41), but still wind up costing a LOT less than a full E-6 kit. The big downside is the poor keeping of the E-6 color dev, so I'll probably try a roll with C-41 color dev, too. All this to be sure I have a reliable process that gives good color before I try the ten sheets of 4x5 E100G sitting on my shelf...

Hello, how do we make the bleaching standards sufficient for 1 liter for a Russian tank to develop 16, 8 mm film, is there an increase in the standards of peroxide, vinegar, or just increase the water to the standard in the video, so that it becomes 1 liter, waiting for your reply, thanks,

Actually the Mamiya 6 folding camera moved the film plane back and forth and was coupled with its rangefinder. I have that camera and it is really nice. It also was chunkier and heaving than other folders at the time. I also have the Contax AX and like you, I enjoy it and thought it was a "cool" approach. Big cameras don't bother me as I also shoot a Mamiya RB67 and a couple of 4x5 cameras. When compared to those the Contax AX is small. 🙂

Neat! It's bigger than I thought I would be. There's also a lot more traffic than I imagined.

Well, I've been practicing with a lot of user grade films. I moved up to Rollei infrared with great success. I have a bunch of Kodak HIE and Efke Aura, and have high hopes for the results. Seriously, thank you for this tutorial.

Another BS video where the "tutor" did not get it himself but considers to teach others.

Ok so I tried it and it didn’t really work out for me… so I used the first developer (the B&W) and it came out of the tank looking normal. I could see the negatives and the film was light grey, so I moved onto the color developer and the Blix.. I developed the film for 3:30 and the Blix for 13 min (it’s usually 6:30 but I doubled it) however after rinsing the film and taking it out I saw no positives or anything at all all I see is the blank emulsion and on the other side it seems to be blue? I have the “Unicolor” c-41 kit btw, Any thoughts on why this is happening?

Now hold on a second, I used literally just a flash gun for my contact prints and it came out with far far better contrast than you have in yours there. Do you have any idea why that's happening? Cuz I think you can get a lot better out of your contact prints than you just did

I tried to use it my overhead lights to do a contact print with a normal negative once and I only did it for like a quarter of a second then it still completely blew out the entire print

I was thinking since your most recent post now that you're back in your home territory a tour of the Big trees might be in order. I nearly went there once but turned the other direction. Just a thought if you have any interest.

Welcome back! Glad to see you again.

I have some Monobath B/W and c41 (both from cinestill), do you think this combination will work?

I have ISO 100 film. Should I reduce the Dev. time? My kit has separate Bleach & Fix. Should I just use them normally like with regular C-41 film?

Is HC-110 just black & white developer? I have arista b&w developer and I was wondering if that works too

Substitute “Soviet” for “Russian” and you’re on the money.

Big fan of this turbine

Hey, i am kinda new to flm developing and was wondering, if it was possible to use another Black and white Developer in the first step or if the HC 110 is needed. I still have some Atomal and rodinal at home. Thanks for the Video tho!

This is really fascinating. How do a set my film cameras to 6 ISO? None have a setting that low.

it is much more easy to make contact prints, and use a big LCD , with a oled 8k or even more they will look great.

My 4's meter died a looong time ago. Cover must've been left open for a while.