Hey there- yup, just 3/4 or1”( I forget which) styrofoam insulation board from the standard 4x8 sheets at Home Depot. Backing just just the way it comes...

@@ReefEco thanks for the reply. I’ve been worried that it needs something else due to the weight of the filled tank.

@@mikemorrison377 I wouldn't go less than 3/4", but you'd be surprised how little it compresses...

Hey there - it is a spiral up cut bit to just shave off the tiniest sliver...

Thanks so much! Good luck with the sump - its all about keeping things square and edge prep : )

@@ReefEco you are the best !

That may be another way to do it for sure - I've found the chip clearance is the more important mechanism of the bit orientation...

Haven't had time to make an update - been pretty busy with reefeco.com taking up my extra reefing time - but hope to put one together soon!

You are totally right - I am way overdue - just been incredibly busy with reefeco.com which seems to be taking up most of my extra reefing bandwidth I would otherwise use to make videos.

Thanks! Yup - check out the instruction vid here: reefeco.com/pages/instructions-and-faq

Hey Billy - for that size, 6mm thickness should be fine. Just make sure to add the top frame, which adds quite a bit of long term strength. Thanks, Peter

I think I used the same bit that I used in the table router - and upcut spiral bit. But, if you are not plunging into the material and drill a pilot hole first like I do in the video, you can likely use a straight bit as well. Spiral bit just give a little bit of a smoother edge. Thanks for the watch!

Hey there - there's a video on it earlier in the build series, but I've launched a much improved version called the CoralWall which incorporates many lessons from the first prototype- you can check it out here: reefeco.com/pages/what-is-coral-wall

Thanks Will - working on it! Just got 6 more garden eels, and will have an update as soon as they are done with QT : )

@@ReefEcoany updates?

@@nmarq005 Things are going well, acropora explosion - just haven't had time to make another video!

Thanks so much - appreciate the kind words and the watch!

Thanks! Available at www.reefeco.com : )

Thanks Mario - hope you are well!

Thanks Trevor!

I like that reaction : )

Thanks so much my friend, this truly made my day!

Thank you sir!

@@ReefEco 3D printed aquascape is needed next! :)

@@EDKsurly LOL - I have a 3D printer, but hope never get into 3D manufacturing! Managing a printer farm seems daunting for sure. I think the current mined Marco rocks type of options are really great, sustainable and pretty cheap in the scope of things. Marco rocks is actually now making live rock with their product in sea water systems - will be interesting to see how that works out. But, I could see how some 3D designs would be nice and light, etc.

I saw that you entered the contest on Reef2Reef - wishing you good luck to win! : )

Hey Kevin - you would need something to do the edge prep - and while you can do that by hand, the likelyhood of getting it right the first time is VERY remote. You would have to scrape it by hand, and keep the edges perfectly flat and square. As handy as I am, even I would never try this, LOL. If you don't already have the tools - table saw and router for square cuts and edge prep, you might not glean that much in cost savings. You might try something small first, to see how it goes - like a small dosing container or similar - to practice a bit first...

@@ReefEco thanks for the response, so I have a table saw for straight edges I just don’t have a router, would it still not be worth it?

@@kevinferreira3301 Tough call - trouble is that acrylic is not cheap, and if the edges aren't prepped correctly when you try to glue it up, you'll see the seems aren't good, and you can waste a lot of material. Then there goes the money you are trying to save. If you have a table saw, maybe try to make a small box or dosing container and see how it goes. There are probably some videos on KZfaq on hand prepping acrylic edges for solvent glueing too. First sump I made from acrylic 20 years ago popped a seam and leaked everywhere - and it was because the edges weren't prepped at all and the bod wasn't great...

@@ReefEco damn that’s scary to hear!! I was thinking of even taking the additional time to add the square rods to the corner just to make sure, I’ll see if I can think of something for those corners then. I’m trying to make a 29x21 sump for a Red Sea max s 500 I got for 100 bucks but I have no sump for it, I want to use up all the space I have on the right hand side of the cabinet.

@@kevinferreira3301 Yes, now you know why I add those rods to all the corners now, LOL! My edges and seams are much better now, but it is something I still do. That first sump I glued it together right off the table saw, so all the edges were total crapola. If you are looking to save money, you might not save all that much on that size of a sump - so make it because you want to and to have the satisfaction. Check out what a sheet of 1/4" cast acrylic runs in your area...

Thanks! You should have seen the first sump I made like 15 years ago - not pretty, LOL : )

Hey Trevor - I'm using some pretty chunky crushed coral in the 400, special grade in the eel tank. There has been a lot of calcification of it - so I might be starting to remove chunks of it soon...

LOL - you are totally right, it was way too much. I eventually built a calcium reactor which reduced 2-part to about 100ml a day, which I still dose mainly for the pH boost using sodium hydroxide...

Thanks Joe!

Hey Mike - absolutely - it can be retrofit very easily - and is designed to do so. It comes in sections to fit between any top braces.

Hey Ozzman - I'm not quite sure what you are asking?

@@ReefEco you said you can't quarantine past 6 weeks cause adding cleanup crew would reset the clock. But if you add cleanup crew from your DT, it won't reset the clock

@@ozzman31982 Ah, I see what you mean - yes you could do that, but then I wouldn't feel ok with putting that clean up crew back into the DT from the QT system afterwards, in case they pick up nasties on shells, which snail are notorious for doing. I don't keep the QT running all the time, so it would be a waste of some snails. But, a good thought.

Thanks so much Suresh! This made my day 😀

Thanks Michael!

@@ReefEco Please do a few minute video describing all the different corals. It could give everyone a good idea of what to do. I've never thought of growing zoas on a vertical surface before! Lol I've done GSP and that was fun but this is way way cooler.

@@NinjaSushi2 Hey Michael - that's a good idea. Really I haven't come across a coral that you can't grow on a vertical surface - especially encrusters. Zoas are a great candidate as well (and is the coral that inspired the concept of the CoralWall) because they grow great, and the wall also keeps them isolated from other corals that over time they can over-grow.

@@ReefEco ah. Double duty very nice. What

The lattice structure is attached with magnets to the aquarium, while legs rest on the bottom of the aquarium to take the weight.

Thanks! 👍

Thanks Mikko!

Thanks so much Trevor - this made my day!

Thanks Nicole - LOL, yes - safety first : )

@@ReefEco maybe a disclaimer at the beginning: No one was harmed in the making of this fish room, even if the reef gods demand, blood sweat and tears.

@@nicolewilson8891 If only that were true! I'm notorious for knicking up my hands in the shop - not on powertools, but just in general. The reef gods definitely got their pound of flesh in this build, LOL...

Hey Steve - basically I wanted some additional lower blue wavelengths (~400nm) and color adjustability - the 360we Kessils don't really have much color tweaking available other than white to blue(the new 360x's have more). Also, I had a ton of LED ballasts left over from another project, so it was the cheapest way to get some extra PAR. Ironically, the tank looks best with just the DIY leds on and the particular mix of blue it gives (plus warm whites, red/green, cyan, and "UV"), LOL - go figure.

@@ReefEco ahhh ok sounds nice. Kessils more for shimmer.

@@steevareno2002 Exactly - I really love the Kessil shimmer...

Hey Steve - main display is 72L x 40w x 31h. Eel tank is 31x33x24h...

@@ReefEco perfect!

Hey Agilis - yeah, the order form is extensive, but honestly I was at a loss at how else to do it since each of the layouts is custom, and everyone has different number of powerheads positions, different sand bed depths, want it taller or shorter, etc. It *should* only take about 2 minutes to fill out. What I am doing though is building a library of layouts that I will post for certain tank sizes that people can browse, which might be helpful for people. All ears if you have suggestions for making the order process better. Of course the holy grail would be a fully interactive web-based "builder" where all the components were pre-programmed in and customers could drag and drop and build it real-time... one can dream!

Thanks so much! And we can definitely handle 3/4" thickness, no problem...

LOL, I kind of noticed you were making your way through the series! Thanks Hunter - yes, working on an update soon for sure : )

@@ReefEco yeah, I currently have 3.5 hours of commute time a day, so that gives me quite a bit of time to knock out a podcast or video series.

Hey Mike -thanks. Yes, the early prototype was a permanent install with silicon, and the lack of adjustability and remove-ability was such a shortcoming. This solves all those issues, and yes - cords can go right behind the modules, and still easily removable for maintenance. The "other" company (LOL!) powerheads are even easier...

reefeco.com/pages/order-coral-wall : )

Thanks Hunter - yes, flex PVC is some good stuff, and especially useful for those awkward angles and connections to remove complicated multiple elbows. Plus, if you are in earthquake country like me, they are also useful for isolating elements such as sumps from tanks for that little bit of extra protection against the shaking.

Those are manufactured steel brackets that are attached to the studs and then drywalled in. I think it was video 1 in which he covered those.

@@elslice Hunter is right, it is a company called www.countertopbracket.com/ and they have a lot of great bracket solutions. Check out episode 1 on fishroom basics...

Thanks Fabio! We do ship internationally : )

guarda che ti basta usare qualche magnete per le pompe di movimento... non avevi mai visto?

Hey Hunter - thanks : ) I would probably say $15 in acrylic then maybe $15 for the bulkheads. So, a little savings over buying - but mainly I needed them a specific size, so had to build them. Plus, they match everything, LOL, so that satisfies the anal designer in me. I'm using a Sicce 3.5 on both QT system, so probably getting 5-600gph or so.

@@ReefEco they look very similar to the fiji cube overflows and I believe their 600 gpm model retails for around $110. So I would consider that a worthy savings.

@@elslice True - if I can save 50% or more and have the time, I will usually make it. I saved a TON on making the sumps, which was totally worth it.

@@ReefEco I agree. And often I will do the project myself even if it costs just as much as it would to buy it because I know the quality that I will produce. And as far as the reef tank goes, my favorite part is designing and setting up the system.

LOL - very true. Luckily I have upgraded my MeNC to a real one - much better! Thanks for the watch Hunter.

Hey Gary - I won't unfortunately, but look forwarding to exhibiting at a booth at one of the shows in the future once my catalogue of products is a little deeper : )

@@ReefEco there is another show in Daytona beach in November I believe. Good luck. Putting rock in a new tank right now and your product would really improve the back AIO wall.

@@garysteinert8040 Thanks Gary - I was thinking about coming to MACNA this year, but apparently it was cancelled. Perhaps next year. Drop me a line through the website and would love to get you a CoralWall! Best, Peter

Thanks Andrew!

Hi there - apologies for any confusion - the website is actually setup. The process starts with filling out the order form, since each CoralWall is customized. Once I receive the order form, I send you a layout document showing the components and dimensions, plus a payment link - both no obligation. Then you can purchase through checkout. Hope that clarifies things. I opted not to make all the many individual components of the CoralWall able to be purchased (though some are, like the powerhead module, replacement plates, magnets, etc.) so when ordering I ensure all the components are correct and work together for the specified layout and use.

Totally - I understand some people like the clean back, often black, to set off the corals in the foreground. I think if I didn't have the back of my peninsula covered I would be the same way. But, more room for corals and being able to isolate some encrusters like zoas and montipora long term from the rest of your rock work is pretty useful. Plus never having to scrape again : ) And this system can also be used to create some nice asymmetry, stepped walls, or even cover both the short side and part of the back of a tank in an "L" that is against the corner of a room. Endless possibilities!