🤣🤣

Or ways to improve the bike

haha

1/8. Did you not watch the video he crafted for us?

Interesting information, thanks for sharing!

@@zhe_shean for you. TRAINING FOR TRACK RACING Racing season was summer (N/June-Oct S/ Nov-April) Road bike training for track racing- A fixed gear of 68" - 72"(48 x 18 is 72" with 700x23C) should be used. If possible use 165 cranks. Std road cranks were 170 and track cranks 165. Remember on the road we often used 27" wheels with 1" high pressure tyres. Which were a bit bigger than the 700C - the gear size was slightly bigger. Racing on track was with tubular tyres (we called them singles) which were always the 700C size. But trained and warm up on high pressures because it was cheaper. Later a 49T front chainring became std for track bikes. Today 53T is often used. Most times if you buy a new track bike you can order what you want. Sprinters - front chainring 48/47/46 x 1/8" rear cogs 14/15/16/17/19 (don’t use 12). Add in order 13/18/21/20. To change track gears first go up/down the front chainring then up/down rear cog etc. For some reason my dad had a 24x1/8" rear cog? So today I have one. Endurance - front chainring 52/51/50 x 3/32" Rear cogs had to be 3/32". So I just used 3/32" for both types of racing. I used 52T x 3/32" chainring for all track racing. New track bikes came with 52T front. Our road bikes had a 52/42 x 3/32" std double front chainring as std. Today I would recommend 49/50/51/52 front chainrings and buy as many rear cogs as you can afford 13/14/15/16/17/18/19/20/21. Start 51/50/49 front and 14/15/17/19 rear. Buy a 52 if you already have the 49. Today if you buy a new track bike it usually has a 49T front and a 16T rear. Add cogs in this order- 18/13/21. Nobody develops into a top rider any length of time that trains in a high gear. 63" (42x18) & 72" (48x18) are good training gears. Closer to track season 84" (48x15). By regulation juniors (under 17yo) had a race gear max of 88" (52x16/ 49x15) - watch out for tyre profile sizes. Its difficult to ride a banked velodrome with a gear less than 78". In winter races local clubs had a max gear of 85" (47x15). Our road bikes had 52/42 x 3/32" double front chainring as std. My road bike and track bike had same size 52Tx3/32" chainring. Therefore they had the same chain size but different lengths. The track cog, road freewheel and the centre bracket lock ring were the same size. The British std dominated and god bless the Japanese for copying them. So I could swap components from one bike to the other. The cog (sprocket) diameter and thread size was the same as the diameter and thread size of the crankset cups and road bike freewheel. Remove freewheel. Use a spacer or 1 maybe 2 centre bkt lock rings. Put on the track cog. Then use a centre bkt lockring against the cog as a lockring. Tighten them against each other. Remember to line the cog up with front chain ring/s. After riding the bike around for a while there is no need for a lockring. The cog will stay on. The easier way was to put the track wheel straight onto the road bike. Then shorten the road chain. If you got the adjustments right it wasn’t necessary to shorten the chain. Also a double sided rear hub meant the rear road wheel could go straight onto the track bike. Alternatively a double sided rear track hub could have different cogs either side. Simply turn the wheel for different gear sizes during training or racing - today this is banned. When I was young I was poor - broke poor. Back then anyone could afford the sport. This system made it a lot cheaper to get into the sport. Cyclists who had money had all the gear. But battlers like me had to get by as best we could. Today its cheaper to play golf than ride on the track. Road TT - front set up was 52/51, 51/50 or 50/49 chainings for a flat open course. Std racing rear freewheel was 13-17T. It paid to have a range of them. Also I had 13/14/15/17/19 and 14/15/17/19/21. Senior men used a front range of 52-54 teeth. Usually a single 53 was used. Very strong rider could use a range of 54 - 55. Hillclimb TTs - go by the hills and how far things are apart etc. Std front setup was 52/42. I had 15/17/19/21/24, 14/17/20/24/28 and 14/17/22/27/32 freewheels. It was possible to build exactly what you needed for that course. But I just swapped freewheels over as needed. Masters (over 45yo) and women used a single 50T front chainring and 13-19 freewheel. Juniors had to follow local restrictions max gear of 88" on their road bike. Ten Week Endurance Program: Week1: 3days x 25miles. Week2: 3d x 25-30 mile. Week3: 3d x 20mile + 1d x 30mile. Week4: 3d x 20mile + 1d x 40mile. Week5: 1d x 20mile + 1d x 30mile + 1d x 40mile. Week6: 1d x 4x2minutes + 2d x 30mile + 1d x 10x1minute/1min recovery + 1d x 40mile. Week7: 1d x 20mile + 1d x 5x2min + 1d x 40mile + 1d x 12x1 min/1min recovery + 1d x 50mile. Week8: 2d x 35mile + 1d x 2x3min/3x2min + 1 x 55mile + 1d x 10x1min/1recovery&3x2min/2recovery. Week9: 2d x 20mile + 1d x 3x3min/1x5min + 1d x 40mile + 1d x 2sets10x1min/1min recovery + 1d x 60mile. Week10: 2d x 25mile + 1d x 40mile. Pre Season Track Program: Road bike/fixed gear 46x18 on flattish roads @ 25kph Week1: Tue 30km; Wed 40km; Thur 30km; Sat 30km; Sun 35km Week2: Tue 40km; Wed 50km; Thur 35km; Sat 35km; Sun 40km Road bike/fixed gear 47x18 undulating roads @ 28kph. Week3: Tue 40km; Wed 60km; Thur 40km; Sat 40km; Sun 50km Week4: Tue 40km; Wed 70km; Thur 40km; Sat 50km; Sun 50km Road bike/fixed gear (am) 48x19 flat/undulating roads @ 30kmh. 5: Tue 40km; Wed 60km; Thur 40km; Sat am:40km+pm:track; Sun am:50km+pm track 6: Tue 40km; Wed 70km; Thur 40km; Sat am:50km+pm:track; Sun am:50km+pm track Road bike/fixed gear 48x18 flat/undulating roads @ 30kph. Track bike now 48x15. 7: Tue 50km; Wed 70km; Thur 50km; Sat am:50km/pm:track 8: Tue 60km; Wed 70km; Thur 50km; Sat am:50km/pm:track Afternoon at the track 47x15. Lap track slowly. Then 8km at 3/4 effort. Last lap hard finishing with sprint. If rider has slow start: Ride around track shoulder to shoulder. At prearranged marks sprint all out for 60m. If rider lacks jump in sprints: practice flat out sprints over 100-200m from rolling start. Recover completely then repeat. If rider can jump but dies before finishing: practise long sprints over 220-250m from standing, rolling and flying starts. I started with an all-round training approach focusing on the 1 km TT. 1000m TT: 52x15, 49x15, 50x14 This is roughly a minute long. So in track running this roughly matches the 400m/800m race. The cycle sprint roughly matches the 100m running race. The 4000m pursuit matches the 1500m/mile running race. So a comparison can be made between the programs for running and cycle programs based on time or distance of reps and sets. There are lots of excellent running programs but "no" track cycling programs. For a cycling workout, double the time or distance from the workout of the running program. Basic sprint workouts: 1. Running- 2x30m, 4x60m, 4x30m, 2x30m Cycling- becomes 2x60m, 4x120m, 4x60, 2x60m. 2. Run-100+100+100m, 100+200+100+100m, 100+100+200+200m, 100+200+100+100m, 100+100+100m. Cycle-200+200+200m, 200+400 +200+200m, 200+200+400+400m, 200+400+200+200m, 200+200+200m. Slow 200m cycle between sets. 3. Run-30m max 6-8 reps, 50m max 5-6 reps, 60m max 4-6 reps, 80m near max 3-4reps. Cycle-60m max 6-8reps, 100m max 5-6reps, 120m 4-6reps, 160m near max 3-4reps. Slow cycle between reps start with 2min then 1min then to 30secs. Get full rest between sets. SPRINTER Different track sizes 250m, 333.3m, 400m or 500m with different bankings. My local track was 480m. Today tracks are nearly always 250m. We used 46/47/48 (49 for v strong rider) front chainring and 14T rear cog. 36 spoke wheels. Sprinter needs to develop speed and strength. Warm up 46x14. Sprints on Tuesday 48x14. Sprints on Thursday 46x14. Start racing season with 88" (49x15) and work up to 92" for the championships. 92" (51x15) is basic gear for match sprinting. 94" (52x15) gear size was used on very fast tracks. 94" was also the gear size used for single speed road time trials Track Match Sprint: Racing early season 52x16 88" Racing late season 50x15 90". Std gear was 51x15(92 inches). Most people used tubulars (23mm) on bitumen but I didn’t. 27inch wheels (not 700C) with 1 inch (25mm) high pressure tyres have a bit higher gear size. Note 22mm/19mm tyres have less gear size. 200m time trial: Top Sprinters use say 112" - 120" (53x13 110" 52x13 108", 51x13 106", 52x14 100" 51x14 98", 50x14 96", 52x15 94"). 12.0s on bitumen is a world class time. Today on boards they do under 10sec. On my local bitumen track I used: 200m TT 52x13 108", 52x14 100" or 52x15 94" 14sec is 31.95mph 13.5s is 33-13mph 13-0s is 34.4mph 12.5s is 35.8mph 12.0s is 37.3mph 11.5s is 38.9mph 11s is 40.67mph 10.5s is 42.6mph 10.0s is 44.73mph 9.5s is 47.09mph Work out what time you want? Then for a cadence of 140 what gear is needed? Count how many pedal strokes in 10 secs and multiply by 6 or in 10 secs and multiply by 6. I used a watch (with a second hand) mounted on the head stem bolt. Watching the sweep of the second hand is easier than looking at a digital watch. Watch the sweep for 10 secs. 18 pedal turns is 108 cadence, 17 is 102 cadence and 16 is 96 cadence etc. Rursuiter: Used 48/49/50/51 front chainring and 15T rear cog. Most commonly used gear was 50x15. They used 28 spoke wheels. Souplesse is very important. Its how fluid the pedal stroke is. Smooth, smooth, smooth. Not push, push, push. 4000m individual or team pursuit: 50x15 90", 49x15 88", 51x15 92" very fast track or 48x14 93" world class rarely used.

@@raymondmenz522 Appreciate the additional info! I concur that cycling can be made much more available to everyone. Wish you a great day.

I used to be dyslexic but God thank never more am I any.

how did it go, im curious

Beginners must wear straps in fixed gear And keep one front brake

O r i j u n o 6KU shouldn’t be that heavy maybe 25 lb or less. That’s fine, especially for getting to be a stronger rider, which you should and if you keep riding you will. You should be able to make it up all the bridges and hills in the city with 46/16. I’ve done it on 49/14 which is my race gear not my city gear, my city gear is 49/16 right now but I prefer something spinnier like 48/17. Anyway the bottom line is just ride your bike a hell of a lot and you will get stronger and faster and then you can do upgrades as you learn more about what the upgrades will do in terms of comfort, performance and looks

My Pure Cycles Premium has 46/16 and for hills I learned riding off the saddle and standing upright gets my body weight into it. Also getting a good fast start before the hill helps. Starting up a hill from stationery is hard. I also use tacking, criss crossing (if there's no traffic)

yomamadeathz ride quality describes how the bike feels in terms of vibration and road feel. As in bigger tires with less air in them have a higher ride quality than narrow tires at super high pressures. Also steel frames usually feels smoother than aluminum because they are more impact absorbing. The longer the cranks the more leverage you have to pedal so it is easier in theory to pedal all other things being equal (I have never experimented with cranks longer than 165 because when you’re going fast and turning you want to have maximum clearance and the shorter the cranks the more you can lean the bike over as you turn without risking your pedals striking the ground). Soooo 48/15 on 165 cranks might feel slightly harder to pedal than on 170s. 48/14 will be harder and faster still. I have a feeling you don’t race your bike, is this correct? If you are just riding around the city for fun i would recommend 48/17... stop and go it easier to get up to speed quickly and it is a hell of a lot easier to slow down. When I race at the velodrome or a Crit I typically use 49/14 or heavier. However when I race alleycats in the city I use 49/17... leg speed is important and the stop and go environment of a street race means you need to be able to slow down and speed up basically the whole race