Awesome. Thanks for watching and subscribing, I really appreciate it. I might see you at Grand Bend later this summer! Good luck with the repairs!

@@landry555 Thank you! Sounds good, see you out there!

Hey! Glad the video was helpful for you. I’ve repaired my fairings on my 2 R6 a few times and if you are not in a rush, it’s relatively easy to repair. Ive messed up once but only because the temperature was too low… My advice is to make sure that you have a hot area (> 65 Fahrenheit) to let the fibreglass cure properly overnight. Good luck!

@@landry555 true, I'll keep my garage warmed up! The first time it took me a couple of tries to get the correct primer-hardner ratio, but I like your idea of using those cups and marking them. Thanks!

Thanks for watching and for taking some time to share your feedback. The process isn’t very difficult and very rewarding. You are absolutely correct, planning is key to having a successful project. Good luck and thanks for watching. 🙏

Glad it was helpful! Thank you for sharing your feedback. Much appreciated! Cheers!

Thank you so much!!!! Appreciate the feedback Matthew. Cheers!

Hey Andrew, Thanks for reaching out. I am definitely not the expert when it comes to plastic/ABS/PVC. However, here are a few random thoughts to get your started: - If you only have a cracked fairing, JB Weld Plastic Weld might be sufficient. - For slightly larger repairs, I had some great success with G/Flex and drywall fiberglass mesh tape. - If you are trying to repair a plastic retaining tab, then I'd recommend the yellow ABS cement (i.e. plumber glue), once dried, you can sand it down, reinforce with a layer of fiberglass (or Kevlar cloth) and apply some G/Flex or ABS cement as the final coat. - For large areas, you could consider using epoxy adhesive to "bond" your fiberglass cloth to the platic (make sure your plastic fairing is well scuffed up and drill some holes to have maximum grip. Then you can use epoxy resin to "shape" and reinforce the cloth. Hopefully that will give you a few ideas... Let me know if you have more questions and I'll do my best to help. Cheers, /Marco

@@landry555 Cheers. I saved the abs seat and simply used the layers of fibreglass/resign, with a mold in place to help me shape it. It appears to be a good result. We'll see how it lasts. Thanks. Have a great Christmas

Awesome! Thanks for taking the time to post back. Keep me posted! Happy holidays Andrew.

Thank you! Glad it was helpful. Good luck and keep me posted on your progress. Cheers!

Yeah, my paint shop normally does the last bit of sanding for me so I left this part out. Sorry for the confusion. If you have a lot of ridges after you apply the Bondo, you can knock it off with 80 grit sandpaper, then you can switch to 140 then 180. If you need to apply a 2nd coat of Bondo, only use 80 grit since you’ll want the Bondo to grip to the surface. Thanks for watching and good luck!!! LMK if you have more questions… Cheers, /Marco

@@landry555 thanks man for the help. For filling small fairing bolt holes could you get away with a fiberglass filler only, and then sand it after it dries, or would say I should stick to fiberglass? I guess whats confusing me about the fiberglass is if after it dries and you sand it down to flush with the original surface, wont that remove the fiberglass and expose the hole again? Unless the fiberglass sits down into the hole or something. Maybe I'm overthinking it lol. Thanks for your time. This is on a new set of armor bodies fairings on my R1. And I hope I can match that primer gray after the repair is done, as the fairings aren't wrapped or painted yet

Hi! I got the table from Apex Manufacturing in the US. Here’s the link to the product page: www.apexmfg.com/all-products/category/view/1 Let me know if you need more details. Cheers! /Marco

@@landry555 Yea thats what I thought it was. Apex Mfg quite expensive to buy and ship, might have to pick one up next time im in Michigan.

I hear you! I did the same since Apex doesn’t (or didn’t at the time) ship to Canada. So I had to pick it up in the US and bring it back in. Great purchase tho. I really like the quality and convenience.

Is it cracking at the junction or where you added the new mat/cloth? How many layers do you have?

@@landry555 usually cracks at junctions or at tight bends. Usually i add 3 layers of mat,not cloth. It's really frustrating because it doesn't affect the rigidity, it cracks on the surface and fucking up color and clear coat.

hmmm. Hard to determine what the problem is. If your mat thickness is the same as the rest of your bodywork, I’d probably try to finish the outside section with a thin layer of epoxy and make sure that you have thin and even layers of glass with no trapped air bubbles. I’ve crashed one of my R6 a few times and with the UV, heat and constant flexing / vibrations, I always end up with stress fractures at the end of the year. I also had some issues with thicker paint jobs / gel coats… I thought it would be more resistant but it turned out that the fibreglass was fine and it was the gel coat that was cracking. Good luck! Keep me posted… Curious to hear more about your experiences.