I snapped that same curl cylinder shaft. Snapped right in my face. Fun times. I went to get it replaced, I was dressed in my business attire with a mask on . They quoted 1400$ for the new cylinder. I didn't get it. A month later I went in dressed like a farmer, no mask, faking being a Trumper, and they sold it to me for 600$. Nice guys. I work my tractor a lot harder than it is meant for. Pushing burning fires around, fallen tree cleanup. Ripping out bushes and stumps. Its a real workhorse. Air intake hold down is currently busted and broke the metal manifold cover it mounts to all apart when it broke. Off to Pape for parts, dressed in my dirtiest good ole boy clothes. I love my Deere. Not too happy with Pape Machinery though.

A real guy with real life actions .Its good to see someone who isn't rolling in the dough so to speak, I just got a new 1025r and I have been watching owners put them thru the paces and I think im going to really enjoy mine the tractor seems to take some abuse and come out the other end in good shape ...Thank you for your honest reviews

Good video. Nice to see someone else using their tractor to it's potential and not just babying it. I have replaced a few hydraulic valves and removed some paint from the brush guard myself at 600 hours on the clock.

Sure nice to see someone on you tube that's close to home. I live 45 miles east of Fargo. I like your show

Wow, thank you for taking the time to do this video. Really good quality information from hands on experience! So helpful to new tractor owners like myself. I’d have to recheck, but I’m guessing maybe 20 hours on mine and surely will experience some of the same things eventually. Thanks to you though, it will cause less freaking out on my part. Kinda feel like, I’ve been there done that, thanks to great videos like yours. Awesome! I greatly appreciate you sharing your learned knowledge!🌟🌟👍

Good job Dash...I live just across the Canada boarder...I have a new 1025r coming this week..looking forward to seeing more videos! Thanks

Thanks for sharing your experiences with your JD. I enjoy your videos and honesty. Keep up the great work and enjoy working with your JD. Have a blessed Christmas and 2021 year.

Good video and really overall very minimal issues. I just passed 200hrs with my 2025r and similar scuffs, dings, scratches.. these tractors are so powerful for their size i get into a lot of brushy areas and probably push it too far. But lots of fun working the land with the green tool!

You made a very nice video that I'm sure will help a lot of 1025R (& S) owners. I realize that most of the repairs were for minor breakages but some put you out of commission for a time. I bought a Kubota L3901 compact - which is larger than the JD "1" series but after 380 hours of very hard use in the woods and food plots I have yet to have even the slightest broken part or break down. I don't baby my tractor at all and may have been totally lucky but I've come to think of that L3901 as bullet proof! I have hauled max loads with the bucket, sunk it to the frame in clay-mud, rototilled some of the rockiest, root-infested fields, pushed trees over/yanked the roots out, plowed tons of snow every winter, raked/gathered/hauled massive amounts of brush with the grapple and even used an over-sized snow-pusher. None of these things are easy on the Kubota but it handled it all and asked for more. That said - I think JD makes a great machine also. I've had 2 JD garden tractors (LX277 & X485) that have operated nearly flawlessly for years. I wouldn't hesitate to buy a 1025R (or "S") but my loyalty tends ever so slightly toward Kubota.

Honey Locust and Hawthorn trees have thorns that will take out tractor tires. I think Mesquite as well . . . but that doesn't grow around here in NY.

Great Video, thanks. I have almost 200 hours on my 1025r, love it. I use if for so much more then I ever expected. Bring home a new refrigerator. No problem, grab the tractor, slip off the loader and attach the forklift attachment, and in a few minutes I can take the fridge out of my truck without having to wait for someone to help me. I use it for dozens of things every month that I had not thought of when I bought it. The design is very well thought out. I'm like you, when I need something done, I'm going to use what I have, even when it pushes it to the limit. I don't think of it as abusing my tractor, but as getting my money's worth.

Thank you for your time. Enjoyed video! Doing my homework before buying. 👍 😎

Glad I’m not the only one who bent my top. Thank God for tractor supply store I’ve gone through three already

Another good video, Dash. Like RVJimD and others, I moved my lights to the inside on my JD 4110+46 backhoe. No issues other than be careful not to overtighten the bolts, as the nuts are embedded in the plastic lamp housing and are easy to twist loose. Just past 600 hours and still going strong.

Had mine since last May and have had no problems with it at all save for the fender lights never working. Took it to my dealer and they fixed them a month ago. Then I tried doing the 50 hr. maintenance thing and found the zerks on the main drive shaft were facing so I couldn't get a grease gun on them no matter what rotational position they were in. Stopped by the dealer and asked what it would cost to get the U joints flipped so I could grease them - $240! Mechanic claimed two and a half hours to do it! I'm 76, but maybe I'll take this job on myself. You've a great dealer - be thankful!!!

I am looking at buying a used 09 jd 2305. It's the model before your 1025. Your garage and video are outstanding. Keep them coming. AL

Great and honest review. Thanks

Well constructed video, I have a 94 Honda 22H.P. diesel with numerous attachments. I have a 5 ft snowblower that hooks up to the 3pt also(haven't used it yet) but I noticed when buying it two Months ago the bottom sway links were bent so bad it was hard to get the clevis pins out. These are tempered steel, simple squeeze in the vice, good as new. I'm positive the owner before did this running in reverse, hitting 5-6ft snow piles, plus they were not set right(I could swing implements almost 6-8" L-R which is way too loose. Make sure to have a little sway when in lower position(3pt sway 2"- 3" when pushed left to right), too tight and hydraulics will bend them during pivot from H-L, too loose and they will bend from pushing force into snow. Check them throughout the stroke and adjust till you get them just right. I Also have a top link identical from Cal Ranch Stores, take that damn cross pin out before it finds the back of your body panels if you lift up to max position to clear something! My immaculate 30 year old machine now sports a rear body panel crushed by that 'leverage pin' in a fluke position, turned inward and did not slip/slide on raising a implement. Btw, how do you like the blower being on the rear? I think My neck will suffer even with mirrors! It makes sense to have front loader capability plus snowblower together. The 3pts were designed to 'Pull' not push therefore the stress on the bottom sway buckles. The 'Ol Boy that had this brand new used it for snow removal only and garage parked it every night, I'm told this Honda setup was supreme even to todays standards having 'Power Shift', 3-range trans, 9 Fwd & 3 Rev. 4x4, plus 3 PTO's. A snow slinging Monster for it's subcompact design. A must if one lives in the Sierra Nevada Mountains where it can really snow. Is most your hobby/part time work Snow Removal? I haven't found anything mine can't handle with the exception of raising the Loader high enough to fill a Larger stye Dump Truck. Bottom pin lift is 5'-2" which is just fine as a 4 ft Wide, 12 ft long loader when the bucket is full! Last question, is the PTO driveshaft slip-joint on yours pivot, connect and run smooth in operation? I just 'unseized ' mine from sticky grease that was used plus the 'old guy said it was hell connecting? Something's not set up right so I'm working the bug's out one step at a time. Maintenance is very high on these machines, I don't know what all these new kubota owner's are going to do when their warranty runs out? All new equipment turns to older equipment faster than anyone can flip the calendar pages! Lol.

Good video. I have a JD 2305. DO NOT bend/break the kick stand for the bucket. I was attaching the bucket in the dark and I misaligned the bucket arm and bent the kick stand. Took it off and tried to bend it back and SNAP...it broke. About $400.00 for a new one. Be careful with branches etc. hitting the front light assembly. About $150. to replace that. Every now and then mine will just quit running. Found out there is a diode in the dash that burns out. Not expensive to replace ($20. part) and you can replace it yourself...expensive if you bring it to John Deere (trust me). Wheel cylinders leak but I was told "they all leak over time". Great tractor!

Greetings from South Texas! Loved your video. I only 3 hours on my 1025R but I’m loving it.

It seems to be holding up well considering how hard you use the tractor vs. the minor repairs you needed to do. The only repair that scared me was covered by Deere.

Good information, curious as to what type of side hustle you are doing with the tractor. Trying to determine if I should buy used/new and use to mow grass and take care of my 2 acre lot, plus maybe do some general stuff for people to cover cost if I want. Or just use for my own property, tons it can do. Thinking about a mower deck and loader to start.

Looks like you got yours same time I got mine. 250 hrs. at this point, similar minor problems. That 3 point turnbuckle break was probably due to not having both turned tight to prevent sway, anyways that's what busted mine, same side too. Mines in the shop now getting the 250 hr. service. The brake adjustment going to cost me about $500.00 though because my mechanic fears it was driven while engaged and may have caused further damage within the clutch system that engages the differential lock. Thanks for the video.

It’s really nice when your dealer has your back on most situations. But it seems that little JD has held up considerably well anyways. If I were in the market, I wouldn’t hesitate on buying one of those 1025R’s. I’ve Heard and read a lot of reviews on those sub compact tractors over the years and they are a quite stout little tractor. I know power wise they’re top notch. I attended an equipment expo a couple years ago at a Kubota’s dealership. I found out first hand about how underpowered the hydraulics were on most of the sub compact machines. (Loader lifting capabilities mainly)

I moved my lights to the inside of the rop. They are sort of in the way visually when I use the box blade now,but I don’t worry about busting them off on a tree now! It is a pretty easy job flipping them to the inside, you do need to clip a couple wires and then re-Attach them, but they bolt right back in the same holes.

Things break man, thats all part of the ownership. The good news is it is still running! My Mahindra Max has had a few issues itself. Good or bad my tractor will start in gear :).The good news is it sounds like you have a great dealer support network as do I in eastern iowa. Take care, happy holidays and stay warm further up north!

Same issue wi the neutral in cold weather. My guess is a frozen part of a safety switch. I have made a habit to leave in neutral, with brake locked, when shut down for night. I haven’t had the issue again. Maybe I will look to get some dry silicone on the switch someday.

Hey mani have a 2013 JD 1026R. And never had any trouble with it. Oil and filters and I use it a lot . Great machine

I have 1026r with about 1300 hard hrs. It was used for landscaping, commercial snow plowing, some logging for personal use and have had really no problems. At about 250hrs I think the return to neutral shock for the pedals, the end broke so the pedals wouldn’t return to neutral and at about 1000 hrs the transmission started to have a small leak when running. Been a awesome tractor. Have regularly exceeded what the machine was built for. Heaviest load was probably a 4’x5’ flagstone and 5”thick. Had a 54” box blade on the back for counter weight and I had bounce in the seat to get the back tires to touch the ground to steer. Otherwise the backend would swing when I steered. Lol. Good times!!! Last couple years it hasn’t been worked as hard

On the tire/flat issue. When I got my zero turn the very first thing I did was slime all 4 tires. In the year and a half I have run it(in nasty brush,thorns and mesquite in South Texas) no flats so far. On you hi/lo shift lever not wanting to let the unit start in cold weather, check the switch on the lever. Work at a jd dealership in South TX and the switches are a known failure point. Beats the hell outta a mechanical failure though.

I had the same issues with those R4 tires. I switched to the carlisle versa turfs with a sealer fluid inside. No problems since. Also, I have broken flashing lights twice. The loader pins rip out all the time. I keep 5 or 6 in stock. It is primarily the little cable that connects the pin. My mower deck has also taken a beating. The wheels are slightly bent. The pins that hold them get bent and ripped out all the time. I get replacements at harbor freight cheap. My seat support also broke, but that was covered under warranty. I also have the same issue with the neutral in cold weather.

Great video Dash 👍🏻, my neighbor has a 1025R and he’s had it 4 years now with 206hrs and he hasn’t had any major issues. Stay safe.

Very good information

Very good video, thank you.

Got 22 hours on mine....Picked up a small 4X8 tin roof section with the forks and after moving to it's new destination realized I scratched the paint off the top of the brush guard all over....That's why I took all the pictures I wanted of it looking new the day they unloaded it off the delivery truck because I knew it was going to be down hill from there....LOL...I baby it as much as possible, most jobs I don't even have to turn the throttle up from minimum position but I'm also not going to shy away from doing a job (using common sense) for fear of messing something up....

The three point is an easy fix also, you can remove that cover and its only minor linkage that presses against the two up down valves

Ur nuetrual problem is the sensor mounted under the transmission in the front, its to the left of the filter, you will loose fluid when you remove it, its a roller ball on the tip of the sensor, seems as they wear they sometimes fail

Fyi you could have welded the turn buckle. They are not aluminum. They are just coated steel. You could have just ground the coating off. Can check with a magnet since aluminum is non ferrous and would not stick to the magnet. Great video all around! Just wanted to clear this up.

Things happen. One thing I did with my brush guard was to remove it and get some spray on bedliner and it is holding up really well. Thanks for the info

Nice tractor, I'm still debating on wether to get the 738x or the 1025. The 1025 seem to be much more of a machine for about the same price as the 738x.

You really should buy or make heavy-duty grill guards for the front, so you don't destroy more than your paint job. Branches, sticks & other debris can easily go through the factory mesh.

Those are great tractors. I have a 2038r and 250 hours on it and like yours no major problems. I have broken the lights off TWICE lol so I guess I’m a slow learner

the issue with your shift lever not realizing its in neutral is your shift sensor. pretty simple to change with a socket wrench and a new sensor.

If you haven't installed the air cleaner relocation kit, do it asap. The original design mounted the air cleaner to the top of the engine. Vibration would cause the backet to break, every one of them. The first solution was to make the bracket thicker but that moved the failure point to the manifold on top of the engine. Parts would fall down inside and ruin the motor. The new solution moves the air cleaner mount to the radiator support.

Bismark ND! Holy cow, that is the coldest place I've ever been. Negative 38 degrees Fahrenheit. That will get your attention!

I have a Kioti cs2210 and I put 284 hours on it in 1 year and 3 months most of it pushing brush and cultivating crops when they're small and I have lost the little rubber pedal for the reverse not a small hole in the grill of the tractor through the little black plastic and knocked a light of the rops but no break downs satisfied with it so far really tough for its size

Great video!

Slime works real good as long a you clean it up because it's self vulcanizing rubber, so when you change tires make sure you clean it up really good. It reacts with co2 to vulcanize

That neutral shifter problem is also common with Kioti and TYM

Has anyone a solution for a better operating handle for the parking brake on the JD 1025R, I have broken two of what I call fragile orange plastic type ones. Always in cold weather, it seems that get real brittle. Would love to have a more stronger fix as it is a safety issue.

The ears for the top link on the rockshaft housing on our 1023 and 1025 have broken off. Unbelievable!!!

That’s hilarious, I did the exact same thing to my top link the first couple days I had it 🤦🏻‍♂️. Ended up with the same replacement one too!

Good job

Brush can be nasty, older tractors didn’t seem to have as much going on under the deck.

I caught my rear light on a mailbox while blowing snow, so I installed them inside the rops.

My #JohnDeer has about 54 hours on it,. The hydraulic hoses were replaced(under warranty). I was really surprised. It was leaking where the hoses connect(1025R 2020) by the right foot. Really surprised! The Parking Break had to be adjusted too. The transmission and any attachments all use the same fluid! Check it! Had to buy transmission fluid the first 5 months of 1025R. Thank goodness I took the time to load it and take it for the first service of a warranty! Now u showing me another Transmission line that could fail! bONKERS.

My parking stand looks the same. Its like a second bumper..LOL

Bro, we have Locust Trees on North Texas too. They’re horrible and have massive thorns!

Honey locust (long hard woody) thorns/Black locust short thorns .....Nasty Nasty stuff. They look like steel black jacks that law enforcement uses to flatten tires to stop fleeing vehicles. They will impale even the largest /toughest tires, your boots and your body.

0:26 "When you doodoo... " 😄

Hey there young man, here is the fix so you don`t knock your ROP lights off ever again. Remove them, swap sides with them. Install them on the inside of the ROPS instead of the outside. I can see you`re a little rough on your tractor. I would ask that dealer for a couple extra of those ROPS lights, lol.

Overall, pretty good IMHO for using it commercially.

Did you own a different tractor before and if so which one? How is the deere running? Do you have more than one tractor?

ayyyy Bismarck gang!

✳️🟢I purchased A 2022 / 3046r and absolutely LOVE it.!!!🟢✳️

Thanks for sharing. I had (have?) the same problem with the neutral sensor on my 2013 1025R. I eventually convinced myself that it was the sensor at the bottom of the transmission, or the wires connecting it. I ordered a new one, but before I picked it up, I got in the habit of sifting it into neutral before shutting off the engine. I have not had the trouble since, so I never bothered to change the sensor. Rgds.

I think JD dropped the ball when they changed the ROPS design in 2017. On my 2013, the top link pushed the rops back when lowered,with no risk of bending. This worked great until I replaced their low profile tool box with a taller ammo can. It prevented the rops from swinging all the way back, out of the way. I didn't bend the top link, but it bunged up the threads. I fixed them with a small triangle file, and now only lower the ROPS to the half way (head banging) position when I park it in the garage. BTW, I mounted the old tool box where TTWT mounted his on his first Johnny. I recommend it highly,unless you think you can have too many toolboxes on a tractor.

Black locust that is the tree that 100 percent of all the fence post were made from back in the 1800”s all the way into the late 70”s a lot of areas in the USA it’s a rare tree to find

Bent my top link right off the bat too

Thanks for the walk around! Hey, what fuel additive do you use? Getting cold here in Iowa, I probably better start using something?.

Really pretty good considering the amount and way you used it. I pound on mine too. I cant believe I haven't broke or bent more stuff.

A little common sense will go a long ways!! I’ve had my tractor on three wheels and still running harder than a Deere. Yes it is a Deere 1025r!!

Normal wear and tear. Decent tractor but too narrow for it's height which tends to lead to possibility of roll-over. Double wheels helps. Center link mount on 3pt hitch system is pot metal and tends to break off after normal use which leads to a real conundrum in that the molding is part of the entire trans housing and is not separately replaceable. I had to mount an aftermarket bolt on right above on the large flat plate. It works that way, but for the money they certainly could have improved that design. Tire size is way too small. Flat repair such as replacement of the valve stem is near impossible without damaging the tire. I had to replace the wheel/tire together with aftermarket one's on Amazon. Would I buy one of these again. Not if I could get a Kioti in the same hp rating and price range. It's a compact tractor and for what it is will certainly do the job, but there are better choices.

For the price JD charges for their tractors they could have made the turnbuckles out of stainless steel.

Your 3 point turnbuckle is not aluminum nor is the bolt that goes thru the arm. They are galvanized or coated but definitely not aluminum. I bought a adjustable lift arm for the left side so I can increase or decrease my lift height. I hate those turnbuckles as well but haven’t figured out anything to replace it with because it’s so short

Hey Dash, Great video! Can you do a video on tractor insurance? Thx Man!

What's an "issue"?

Enjoyed your video, a couple of comments from a guy who is on his third 1025R. Yes, I put about 100 hours on a year and sold my last one when it had 400 hours. Just put it on craigslist and it sold. They have great resale value. The cylinder problem may have been from pushing dirt with the bucket cylinder fully extended putting a lot of pressure on the cylinder. I let my neighbor borrow my tractor and then saw him trying to dig a ditch with the loader, bucket cylinder fully extended front wheels off the ground. I stopped him before he tore it up. I noticed on your hitch turn buckle the spring clip is missing through the end of the bolt. This keeps the burn buckle from coming loose. May have caused your problem. The safety switch may be sticking on your high/low neutral shifter. It will not start with out being in neutral, and that switch must be all the way in, may just need adjustment. I am getting ready to retire, my 2020 model 1025R has only 38 hours on it now and so this will probably be the one I keep. They are awesome tractors, love the twin touch pedals. Plus Deere has the best dealer organization it the business. I have lived in three states and all the dealers I had were great.

If you want it to look good and not break down , DON'T use it , Just admire it in your garage . It's a working piece of equipment , get use to it .

Very good video, he is mechanically at the same level a lot of us guys are at. Seeing all these 1025R videos it seems they have a lot of problems, I'm gonna shy away from getting one of these.

Don’t leave the parking break on or over tighten like my dealer did caused a $4,000 repair estimate to fix brakes. So I have a 1025 with no brakes and 3 months out of warranty and the dealer won’t do anything for me. John Deere says nothing they can do.I would not buy John Deere again.

I believe the 1025R is the best in its class.

Is the hood plastic?

Get you some Marks Stabilzers and be done with them

Yep, thats what friends are for, breaking your stuff. Had that done on first tractor. 5 tractors later, only my ass sits in the seat.

200 hours and a hydraulic coupling is failing along with the aluminum 3 point adjuster is just cheap product. The turnbuckles on my Case are cast iron and what you do is grease them to keep them from rusting

I think the Kubota BX is a little stronger tractor. The light! Reminds I want to make some guards for my tractor!

They are called black locus and slime is only cure

Your scratches are call pinstriping.. My 1025r has only 5 hours.. Thanks for your experience

LOL. I just went to a Deere dealer where someone did the same thing with the top link.

Good presentation BUT ! every failure you described are OPERATOR ERROR. NOT a fault of the tractor . Work safer and smarter ⚠️

You must be hard on equipment. I have a 14 and 16 mine looks no where near that bad . I do lawns and snow as well as other odd jobs. The turnbuckle you broke is steel at least mine are steel not aluminum . Because steel and aluminum are dissimilar metals they will corrode don t know why manufactures don t never sieze the threads. Any time you have a wire rubbing on steel you are going to short something. Because manufactures never debut any drilled holes. To those of you who say things happen don t care about equipment. Have drivers at my job that have the same attitude and I write over 70 estimates a year for wrecked equipment.

Omg a zip tie broke.....what next🤦😖😬😳🤷 I would've been on the phone in an instant wanting to know why.🤬 Those zip ties were probably made during the trump era. Now I'm gonna have to find all the zip ties I used in those 4 years. Just my luck you know they don't have made dates on them.🤦 I can expect all the zip ties during that era to just give way. Oh the humanity. 😬

the neutral switch is bad u can bypass

Try not to kill your friend or employee by letting them operate a dangerous machine without TRAINING them first 💥⚠️👎

Not a construction equipment use it wrong itll break not tractor fault everyone is buying them and trying to use them as a piece of heavy duty construction equipment rite tool for the rite job you would not go to mechanic for pulling a tooth or root canal

You are either a bad operator or the tractor has a lot of small but annoying issues for a new tractor - especially John Deere brand. You keep saying not a big deal or issue, but to me it is.