Change the oil every 3 to 5 thousand. Get a white rodgers/stancor glow plug relay. a Donaldson blue oil filter, change the fuel filter every oil change with motocraft and air filters every 10 to 20. Pump the oil out of the high pressure box every oil change. Delete the ebpv valve and get a non solenoid pedestal. delete the air intake heater and get the high pressure oil crossover and fuel rail cross over. update the fuel manifold spring. Get a full exhaust wrap the manifolds up pipe collector turbine housing and downpipe with exhaust wrap. Change the exhaust back pressure tube and sensor. Upgrade your grounds from the alternator to the chassis battery to chassis frame to chassis run a wire from the alternator to the second battery with a 250 amp inline fuse. Get a voltmeter so you can wait unit the glow plug relay completely cycles off before you start your truck. Use hot shots stiction eliminator in the high pressure box when you pump it out. I use a hollowed out writing pen to stick down in there when I pump it out and it pulls about 17 ounces out. Use hotshots edt every fuel up it raises the cetane level and cleans and lubes your fuel system. Change the transmission oil every 25k with oem filter. Also Get a external transmission filter to suppliment. Get a coolant filter. Change the coolant out with elc. Rotate the tires every 10k keep up on the shocks ball joints swaybar bushings tie rods. Grease all the points on front end regularly. Grease your u joints. Change the rear differential fluid.

03:20 my elderly neighbor has a 2003 Town Car that he got new, he's a WWII vet, and his Town Car has 400,000 miles and started overheating. The Ford dealer put a new thermostat in it, new radiator cooling fan, new water pump, and all new hoses and a belt with a new tensioner. Then it was still overheating. I looked down between the radiator and the AC condenser and it was completely covered in road grim and debris. I cleaned it and and it has never overheated again. Great video!!

This guy is like a calm scotty Kilmer! Haha. Love it!

Great videos. I bought a 7.3 1995 a few weeks ago and navigating the things that have arisen has been much easier thanks to you!

I purchased a 2002 Ford E450 7.3L diesel shuttle bus that I'm converting to an RV. This video gives me great information on some preventive maintenance I need to do. Thanks!

For the 7.3 owners out there, if your coolant temp creeps up while towing up a grade, and or fan comes on and off rapidly, mine was fixed by installing a new beltt tensioner from Ford. Takes a lot of force to turn the fan and if belt tension is loose, she will slip. Very happy now after replacing. Fan comes on and off very firmly now, and coolant tempting just below half even after long grade pulls.

Thank You very Much For Posting this....Yah, sounds like a jet plane. Looks like I have some work to do on my 2001. First time I have seen anyone speak of that issue despite much searching and oil impregnated wiring issues which are the bane of my existence. The GEM module is confounding as well. Thank you

The one thing he did not mention is get rid of the stock starter and get a High Torque starter, it absolutely is like night and day, In cold weather if you can crank it faster it starts much easier, the one i got LITERALLY cranks three times as fast as the stock starter, We had a minus 20 night and i was not able to plug in my block heater, I cycled the glow plugs and cranked it and it started before I could count to three, They are not that expensive, I paid $160 for mine, ITS WORTH IT!!!!

Yes... My Wife is Committed to Burying me in my F-250 7.3 🤣😂😀😎 After 35 years of marriage I've broken a ton of parts but Never her Heart! 'Hey Honey, I'm on the Riff Raff site, again' :)

Absolutely love the humble 7.3! Over the years, the points you highlight in this brief video couldn't be more prescient. Been spinning wrenches over 35 years, and I have to chime in on one important point with the 7.3. There is no substitute for a proper scan tool. Usually, I'm tasked with the weird intermittent issues that have had parts thrown at the problem. The biggest issue with this is to NEVER assume that, just because a part was replaced, it can be ruled out. "Oh, that's been changed" can lead you down the wrong path. Equally important is maintenance. Take care of this workhorse! Yes, it costs money up front, but think about what happens when she quits at the wrong moment.

Well I jinxed myself doting on my great luck with my 7.3 over the last 25 yrs. It started with the radiator splitting the top tank on the casting line, 2 days later the water pump let go followed by the alternator pulsating from normal to pegged then the old girl just quit as though turning off the key, after 5 minutes or so it would start and run normally for 5 to 10 minutes and quit again. I found the pigtail going into the IPR valve was shorted and had melted the connector so I replaced the whole thing valve and pigtail, no change, started right up ran about 35 minutes in the driveway and shut off. I assumed a computer can`t handle the power requirements of a solenoid so there has to be some sort of relay in there. I can`t afford to throw parts at it so I had it scanned and it said IDM. (Injector Driver Module). $300! I hope this is the end, it sounds like the fix according to the customer comments that were on the scanner. Didn`t expect comments, recon that`s the difference between a $200 scanner and a $3000 scanner............so once more unto the breech I go.

Thanks for the info, I always tell my wife that my 2001 7.3 is my lifetime truck. Look forward to your battery video.

Got 11 years on the factory Motorcraft batteries in our 2011 6.7. Got rid of it and went back to the 7.3. My 1st truck with the 7.3 PS was a cab and chassis dually 4wd, bought it in the fall of 1994 Mechanic with a pipeline outfit, had a service body put on, loaded it with tools, welder, air compressor, and towed my 33 ft travel trailer with from job to job. It was a strong puller. I

XJ sitting in the garage at the end, this dude has good taste in vehicles

I'm really glad I found your channel just got a 2001 e450 box truck with the 7.3 diesel 150000 miles. It was a mobile dentist vehicle and records came with and it was maintained. Im auto body guy/ semi mechanic. Gonna use your channel to keep this running! Thanks!

Really good info I was a mastertech @ ford for 15 yrs I am a master on the 7.3 alone when you clean the radiator clean the air to air also if its clogged it will raise intake Temps and it's right there you already got pressure washer out Few other things to consider Change the oil in heui system from the top Put a upgraded fuel filter water separator on it from say Fass or Donaldson Better radatior from say mishmoto a 4 core all aluminum Proper maintenance and care these engines will go million miles before a rebuild

nice vid!! ive had nothing with of this on my 2000 F250! except the fuel tank filter failure! I tell everyone every 8 years

As an ex heavy equip mechanic I check oil every day, If I didnt I would get fired so it stuck with me after the job ended thankfully

I almost never comment on anything on the internet. But from watching a few of your videos I really feel that you are more than capable of providing great knowledge and your wording is also very helpful for someone like me. I have just started rebuilding a one of one 1996 F350 CCLB dually and have been searching for all the info I can gather before spring hits and I hit the ground running rebuilding her. I want to try to keep it as much as the original conversion company did with obviously upgrading under the hood as much and a little bit suspension as well. I would like to try to keep it with the original stock rims and such as well. Maybe a little bit bigger tires and maybe a little bit of a stance. You get the picture. Anyways what I'm basically getting at is that I'm not the best with these internets and was hoping I could touch base with you more on a one-on-one or personal level if you would. I'm not really big on this new age New world communication. I could definitely use like a big brother scenario on moving forward on my truck. I don't need anybody to build it for me or anything done like that but I definitely could use some assistance or opinions from time to time! I really appreciate the part where you highly advised against a certain product in the vehicle. It goes to show that you have done more than just read a book! I'm not sure how I could touch base more with you without leaving my personal info on here so I'm more or less just going to wait to see if you even reply to this comment.. best of luck to you and yours

Glad I found your channel. Using your knowledge and advice and that of a few other great channels I've found, I'm about to pull mine and rebuild it myself. Haven't done any serious mechanic work in many years but I'm damn sure gonna do this. Can't afford the 12-15k for the rebuild I want via a specialized outfit and don't trust the motors coming from the 4-7K rebuilders based on everything I've read. I'd rather put this thing on a stand in my garage and do it myself and do everything the way I want it and give it the attention to detail. Fortunately I have another truck to do my pulling with in the meantime.

Great info! Your videos are very helpful

The white image in the thumbnail is NOT a 7.3 powerstroke. It is a 7.3 IDI. Big difference.

Thanks for the quick review and some really good suggestion. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Regular maintenance, IE engine fluid changes. Oil testing is also a very good idea. I would also recommend that any time you service the radiator, change out the thermostat with the real deal OEM stat,

Really good video walkthrough. I've had my 7.3 Excursion for three years now and am on CPS #4. Currently engine intermittently surging and dying at low RPM. I have one of the black CPS's in my glove box since the original purchase. Should I throw the black OEM one in since the grey and purple ones seem to be pretty unreliable?

Bought my 7.3 new in 03 good stuff Thanks

This kats laugh, when ur trucks broke down... after this addictive he's pushing! Makes me wanna scratch my 👀out & feel ill! Other than that, he's simply amazing 👏 & wonderful 👏

Ive defense leaned something today. From you a nd your followers. This is the first diesel ive owned.

Very informative, thank you

Great Content! Thankyou

Thanks for sharing. You are appreciated.

Thanks , you are very informative on the 7.3 to me. I've always been a big cat guy and got myself a beautiful 2000 f250 7.3. I love this thing.

Thank you for this great information and video.

I was a lead mechanic for Weyerhaeuser for about 20 years (80’s and 90’s) we were Ford authorized warranty. We ran oil analysts on everything. I noticed that the 7.3s were coming back with high iron content. So started tracking them. They continued to gain iron. So I contacted Ford. At first they didn’t want to acknowledge that anything was going on but after persistent hounding I got them to admit they knew there was a manufacturing issue. Turned out the casting was too thin on number 8 cylinder and it would create hot spots on the cylinder wall so every time the piston went by these spots it scraped a little iron off. They said they didn’t plan on doing anything about the issue unless they did’t make it past warranty!🙄

I have a Kiwi Bluetooth OBDII scanner. works great and with the Car Gauge Pro app and I can run Buzz, KOEO, and KOER tests. Saved me from buying a hot mess a couple months ago.

Great video thanks!

I own a 7.3 and this is a really good information 👍

It’s camping season and so is watching 7.3 repair videos lol. I’ve been watching 7.3 videos for years so I can have tricks in up my sleeve incase I’m sidelined on the road (which has happened a few times over 1000 miles away from home). You’ve made some great points that I’ve haven’t heard of before and I will be looking forward to your videos in the future.

Good stuff!

I use Forscan and my laptop with a high speed USB adapter and I also have iCarsoft Pro which actually showed my IAT code that wasn’t showing with Forscan. I was able to do all the main tests like cylinder contribution with Forscan

Great vid thanks ! More 7.3 partic 1997 dusky

great video, thanks

What type of scanner is recommended only for 7.3 L trucks ? Hard to read what type it is in the video.

Thanks for the info

I’m interested in the fuel tank sump update you talked bout in tank please let me know thanks..

The diagram used as the thumbnail is a mechanically injected 7.3l IDI which shares only the bellhousing and displacement of the 7.3l PS

Great video.! Thank you. My 2000 7.3 has no power at take off however I manage to get to 60 mph steady no pry then I come to a stop ot light. And tuck feels rough. Changed the fuel filter and nothing. It even stalls when on nutral. Engine has 250k miles. Any suggestions gang???

Awesome video sir

My 1997 F250 diesel has been a pretty good truck, I still have it and I can`t talk myself into getting a new one. It runs flawlessly, I bought it new 25yrs ago and I think it`s part of my life now. Other than normal maintenance I`ve had a torque converter and water pump failure (repaired warrantee) two lift pumps, a set of glow plugs, one alternator, A/C compressor and a starter. I was able to fix it myself and it wasn`t that expensive so I can`t really complain other than it looks terrible, it was a work truck for many years. Everything still works except the dome light, works when ya open the door but not if you try to turn it on manually. Same way with my1986 F250. Oh yes the front end, ball joints, drag link, tie rod ends and U-joints on the half shafts

Excellent 😊

Say what you want about this engine I worked for UPS for 30 years and we used this engine in a large amount of our package cars and hands down these were the best engine we used they commonly would last for 350,000 miles I have retired some with more then 650,000 miles on with just standard service

Love this channel 🙌

Great video! I will say, as far as Bluetooth code readers, "Blue Driver" brand IS NOT compatible with 7.3. I plugged mine in to diagnose a crank no start and it said remove immediately, may cause damage to PCM. Just so nobody buys that brand for their 7.3

Thanks for this great channel. I heard what you said about being sure to use matching batteries. Did you ever make a video about the particular battery you have used with such good longevity? I'm unable to find it if you did so. Thanks again and keep on truckin'.

Thank you sir I've been having issues with it wanting to start and it seems to keep leaking down getting ready to redo the top end again and I thought I'd Refresh on where to look through on things it's been a while since I played with a 7-3 thank you for your knowledge happy New Year and merry Christmas God bless you and your family

I watch all your videos, learned, completed much of what you shared and am proud to own my 3rd 7.3 Now have an almost new inside and out 2001 F250 which I plan to keep forever. Could you now recommend a better code reader that you spoke of regarding being an upgrade from the typical basic P_code reader. Thanks again for all you do.

5:10 nice cavitation on the aluminum cover

Wonderful

Thank you so much. Also, love all the comments.

Thanks I have a 01 7.3 225,000 miles. It eats brake's and had to replace the tranny but this truck is reliable and I never put additives in her.

Hi, What’s is the best 5 spd transmission oil for an 89 f250? Thanks!

About the oil cooler. Is it possible to mount a remote oil cooler, like a oil cooler radiator on this engine?

What would be the part number for the upper wiring harness you mentioned when I reached out to my Ford parts representative he was somewhat dumbfounded which one to order could you possibly send message me the correct part number?

Great videos!! I have a problem that I have not found the fix for yet. I have a 7.3 excursion and it has a rough start and when coming off of the freeway on the deceleration at 40 rpms it dies. It takes a few seconds of cranking to get it started and when it starts it chugs for a couple of seconds but then it takes off and runs just fine. It has this rough start every time i start it. I have replaced the ICP, IPR and the CPS sensors. The forscan shows on starting the ICP psi going above 500 psi right away and the injector test is ok. What else can I test to find out what is causing this problem? Can I test the ECM to make sure it is functioning correctly. should I have the ECM reloaded? Thanks

Do you know if the 98' and 99' wiring harness and IDM are the same besides the intake heater and solenoid?

Thank you.

Did a lot of these fixes. Now I'm going to pull the motor and change the head gaskets.

My 99 7.3 has been smoking a lot while driving and accelerating, smoke looks more blueish, my oil level has been full for the last month, but truck is very sputtery during accelerating, check engine light will come on while acceleration. I have changed map sensor, exhaust back pressure sensor an cleaned tube, icp, ipr, an cleaned the in tank filter screens. It’s got slightly better but still smokes. Any suggestions? injector o rings?

I was warming up my 95 7.3 and it just died. Crank no start. I lost power to the IDM and the relay fir it and the GP solenoid were going crazy clicking. So I checked the wiring harness and the IDM but traced it back to the PCM and one of the grounding mosfets had a missing leg and corrosion creeping up the legs. Ordered replacement chips and fixed my problem. Ships wanted 1000$ for a new pcm. I fixed mine for 6$ and some soldering.

11 years on the same batteries!? Holy moly. I'm lucky to squeak by with two before I see a decline. It's 100% due to short driving, possibly a small parasitic draw somewhere that hasn't gotten bad enough for me to fix. I've got a new battery cable set just have to get it on there. Will be looking for that battery video next!

Thanks, great info. I'm a new guy to the 7.3. At time stamp 15:00 you say you have a dedicated scanner specifically for the 7.3. Can you tell me what the brand or name is. I don't want to buy one that is all cluttered up with, say, Subaru or Jeep software.

Your videos are great, I have recently have an issue with either cold or hot start the engine will surge until I lightly Rev the pedal a few times. Do you have an idea to check. Thanks

Very informative video. I hope you can solve my problem. I have a 96 F-350 with a 7.3 Powerstroke turbo. I recently put in two new fuel tanks and everything else that was needed to repair that issue. However, now when I drive my truck the transmission goes into overdrive out of nowhere. Do I need a new transmission or do you have any idea what I can do to fix this. Thanks in advance for your reply and help.

I love the 7.3..

My 1999 From NEW Never Back To Shop Or A Dealer ALL Service By Me & Son 300k+ Done Lot's Of The Work & Parts & You Said & More ! Gear Vender Over Drive & All The Gale Banks

Have you ever had a 7.3 that once it is heat soaked the starter won’t engage? I have replaced the starter and the clutch starter safety switch. But, after the engine is good and hot that starter doesn’t get the power., but it works fine cold. Could it be the starter relay or the fuse-able link?

Love watching your 7.3 videos but waiting for a injector video on it because I've got injectors knocking so i need help lol 😆

Thanks 👍

You forgot a big one under jerking and surging. Valve cover gaskets! They can cause some very strange problems, but all around very simple and easy to change.

Thanks for the info am new to the 7.3 it's been my dream truck since I was 8 years old now I was offered this 00 f350 it had a big oil leak Tru the bolt port by the high pressure pump next to the icp sensor some one dint installed back I found that lol now it start with hesitation plug my scanner and found 400 to 500 psi cranking and same in idle so no acceleration installed new icp same condition installed new pump now have good pressure it starts and accelerate but still hesitate did a buss test and 3 injectors sond different installed new injector it runs grate till I drive it lol then it shut of only start on starter fluid ok lower tank uuuuffff ooooglyyy rust dirt water diesel pickup parts lol you name it ok clean and fix that replace filter and chassis pump still no crank add injector cleaner no start keep it running on starter fluid for a little few different days and it started to stay running ruff again but every day was better now it hesitate cranking on itself but it cranks and idle but won't accelerate pass 2500rpm and when it warms up gets worse into it stalls wait to cool of and it cranks and same thing if spray start fluid it accelerates any suggestions

i cant get it back in , im getting the angle on the extension right but it’s not wanting to thread , any tips ? tried everything even a small bent alan key to fit the inner square . nothing .

Thank you

Great video! Why does my 2000 7.3 turn off when they hook up a scanner on it? This happens when I take it to get it smogged?

what scanner are you using, the dedicated one?

This was a great video. Thank you for making it. Please can you tell us where to get some of these parts eg. wire harness

Hey, well done - a lot of info in your video, and I learned a lot watching it. However, watching it was much like scanning the front index of a good book... I was left wanting to know more! Since you obviously have in-depth knowledge on the 7.3, may I humbly suggest that you'd expand on some of your points, perhaps a separate video for the ones that you will find people querying in the comments? For me, I'd like to hear more about the accelerator pedal problem... what specifically is the issue with it and how does it present itself? Also, I appreciate you don't want to knock down or "endorse" any specific brand of engine code readers, but what is wrong with the little "Walmart" code readers, and what unit is the one you are using? Overall a top-notch video!

Clint do you have a video that covers the IDM

HELP!!!! Great video...thank you it helped a lot... I took off the I.c.p. to check hpop pressure...3 second crank and it just oozes...but the truck will run🤦...i don't understand...it chugs at idle....new ipr valve....rebuilt ipr....and still...it ran fine with a few hiccups before I rebuilt the ipr....and fuel bowl.... I have no computer only volt meter...12.5v and reversed 12.8v on the ipr.. 8omms ipr.... New icp...great continuity... Not sure of volts...i will check tomorrow but I don't think that matters right now... Any ideas...i have done my research...ive posted on Facebook for help....all I get is get a regular job and pay a mechanic...i own my own company but the truck is broke😭....thank you

Thank You

I watched "project farms" review of AT205 and got some hoping it would get me through the winter with my oil cooler o-ring leak. Pause for your laughter...... Anyway, I followed the recommended usage of 1 bottle per 6 quarts of oil. The leak didn't stop but improved. Then I saw this video yesterday and immediately dumped my coolant and engine oil and changed the oil cooler O-rings. I maybe put 2 miles on the truck with the AT205 in it. Anything I can do to prevent seal harm?

Need help! 2002 350 7.3 I have replaced, fuel injectors, glow plugs, glow plug relay, low pressure oil pump and oil pressure temperature sensor. Truck is still hard to start in morning and smokes terribly. Can you help me?

What about putting a qt of Lucas oil treatment in the engine?

please advise us on the best obd app for the 7.3 please

Brother I don’t even know where to begin saying thanks first I was just , just about to put the AT-205 in my 7.3 I had been looking and looking for information on the use of it with the 7.3 so thank you for saving my rookie A:& haha also I have been having problems with my truck about six months ago I had replaced my fuel relay switch inside the dash just below the stereo and I just did it again but this time it didn’t fix the issue so I looked and listened to the pump under my drivers side that seems to be turning on but still sounds like I’m not getting fuel so again thanks for the tips on the fuel system I’m trying to research putting a sump just have to find a good rated one also if you can answer a question for me do I need to remove the guts of the original one the straw feed or can it stay I do plan on dropping the tank to clean it out I figured I’d just do myself and the truck a favor and clean it out but thanks again and I so hope you keep putting out info David

Great video! What is that code reader that you use? Where can it be bought? Thanks!

What's the name of the OBD reader you're using?

What was your ACK P.... reader you had? I have an 02' 7.3 w/ 255K. It was my grandpa/dads ranch truck and I'm slowly taking care of it. It runs great, I appreciate your knowledge and suggestions.

These sensors are cheap I recommend getting things like the cam sensor and keep it in the truck. It’s so easy to replace. You can do it in less than 5 minutes on the side of the road with a wrench if you needed to. And yes they fail. I only buy the factory Ford sensors because the aftermarket a junk.

Bought a harness from. Riffraff on the weight of your recommendation

Why on all my 7.3 trucks over time I have to connect my trucks to keep it heated so that it will turn on in the morning. Even when it's hot out🤷‍♂️please help thanks