I appreciate that!

@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD your welcome look forward to seeing some more i love these engines i love learning about them. so thank you

HotShot is worth every penny. Started using it 10 years ago. 2001 with 450K and never replaced injectors, did replace all O-rings at 300K.

Thanks for watching!

Glad it was helpful!

I have never seen the baro go bad in a post 99 that is so rare But that being said I have found voltage issues in the pcm's (Rare) I'm surprised it took so long to find A good quality scanner would alert to voltage differences.

@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD PS. On you advice I bit the bullet and ordered a new wiring harness.

Excellent!

No doubt

Your dad rocks

Right on!

We have been testing products that are affordable and have yet to find one that works the current conclusion is scanners that are at the 6 to 700 dollar range so far

@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD well in that case looking forward to hearing the verdict on what you recommend!

Thank you too

I'm listed in the SEMA Diesel Customize rs Guide But I'm booked a little over 2 years out now The Guide also shows several of our creations

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kLBldbZz09q4qnU.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/a7SGZbl91bu-kas.html The first will apply to your situation the 2nd gives you in touch info of sensors also suggest forscan pro app for android and this obd amzn.to/3zaBBzh

standard injectors do the trick I use stage 2 injector rebuild for our heavy haul trucks but there pulling up to 22k pds with a in house tune

Thank you.

THANK YOU VERY MUCH

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m7CVoJNix9_Kcn0.html

get this for your phone app amzn.to/46KIvu9 and get the app for your phone in the ggogle play store its free or for like 5 bucks you can get the upgraded forscan forscan.org/home.html With both of these you can get codes and do tests

There is no look here kind of answer, It is a step by step diagnosis, it could be the injector solenoid bad or grounding out, the under the valve cover harness or the engine wire harness or computer wire harness, All wires need to be checked and tested along with connectors also the IDM and ECM need to have a function test done to see if anything is bad or fried. Start at the IDM and confirm thats working you will need a bid p1219 bidirectional scanner for that like this one amzn.to/44Ivsbg and you will need to down load the diesel app (real easy) Then you can check the ECM or take to a diesel shop who can perform the test or send out the IDM ECM for testing just look on line for someone close Next each wire and connector needs to be check disconnect both sides of the wire harness and run a 12 volt test through each wire to a light 12v ground the light then bend and jiggle each wire to see if broke and check for rub through

Reasons for hot long cranks,, Low or old oil - failing fuel pump- failing ICP - plugged EBP ///// highest probability Failing IPR there is no real way of testing this with out plugging into the pcm then the 2nd is a injector has a failing oil seal this can be visually checked by pulling the valve covers and watching the base of the injectors for oil spray when hot and a extra person is cranking the engine since its just starting it will be hard to spot

@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Thank you Clint, that gives me somewhere to start. The oil was last changed last year but only 1500 miles put on it. It set most of the winter months with ocasional running. The 1500 was mostly hard pulling. There's no diesel mechanics here in the middle of nowhere so I have to learn to do it myself..thanks again, Alan

@@alanwilson2897 with that added info try this first Hot Shot's Secret Pick-Up Prevention Pack 48 Fluid Ounces (PUPP) here is the link so you know which package amzn.to/3Q4ADug after adding run the truck regularly after 300 to 500 miles if it doesnt clear up go to plan A

Yes the injector tip can break on any injector yet its so rare If it hasn't happen it won't

remove the valve cover harness connection make sure that isn't baked , check the outer pins for glow plug ohms each should be around 1 ohm and check the under valve cover harness start with these tests and checks first / fuel pressure and batteries and starter are also the cause of this issue getting the engine hot from plugging in makes it easier to start

7.3 POWERSTROKE COMMON AND RARE OIL LEAKS IN VALLEY

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/m7CVoJNix9_Kcn0.html

remove the hpop reserve tank clean it all out install new seals and below is probable where the leak is coming from get that sealed up The fresher oil vs old oil is not a rare phenomena on a PSD of that year the seal leaks on a new oil change and later seals up

This is where I am

@@justicebruno5249 I rarely have time to work on my truck but last week I found out my LPOP wasn’t getting oil up into the HPOP, might wanna go that route

up grade to the garrett ball bearing turbo then your done with the turbo forever

@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Thanks Clint, will do.

We ran a test many years ago on 3 powerstrokes in my fleet Ran them for 1 year 97 OBS 2000 and 2002 after that year we removed and cut them apart only the 2002 had tiny minimal metal flakes in it So that left me with the fact its unnecessary unless you never flush and refill with new fluid every few years or had a rebuild

Not with out being able to be there So do your basics- codes , fuses, fuel pump, fuel getting to bowl, oil in hpop , sensors connected, pull connector off ICP try start, remove ICP see if oil shoots out when cranking if you dont have oil pressure gauge to hook to head , inject air pressure into head to see if a o ring went out on a injector Go back to the videos that cover the no start or where to start . One of the components that are attached to the engine gave up now its just a matter of elimination

We are working on a scanner video coming soon

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qM1nZZieubLTZo0.html /// SOLDER IN ONE SIDE TO POS OTHER SIDE TO NEG AND USE MARINE HEAT SHRINK THEN TIE OFF TO ANOUTHE PART OF THE HARNESS

Ford/Donaldson AIS Severe Duty Intake System 99-03 7.3L Powerstroke FA-1759 GET THIS ! We have tried them all this is the winner

@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD will this work on obs trucks?

vacuum to the MAP is out of range to the other sensors The computer has no clue fuel pressure is low so it can't compensate the other sensors

Yes, Mine did.

yes ////I seen one only once that had a sock it was so clogged the tube was trying to suck it in

@@biobob52 Thanks for the reply, I don't suppose you have looked into an auxiliary tank for your Ambo? There seems to be plenty of room between the frame rails.

Find a actual diesel mechanic first, even if its a further drive and ask questions like have they worked on 7.3's 6.0's and CAT engines Then if the engine runs good no issues, Have new injector O rings installed just the exterior O rings not a rebuild and new under valve cover harness these are what connect the external engine harness to the under valve cover harness This will be the most expensive pre maintenance work to be done and the most important That way if there ever is a running issue in the future there is no guess work and it would be a external of engine issue, later on if the ICP, CAM sensor and IPR are original have those replaced new FORD OEM ONLY and you have the top potential issues handled and should be able to care free drive 100 k's of enjoyment

Fuel bowl heater fuse is the same as pcm ////// kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kLBldbZz09q4qnU.html kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bNyBbK2ZlbDcmJc.html

?

hot simply green or purple power , warm engine up so the temp gauge just starts to move turn off then pour with a flower water r the one with the big water head let soak and rinse water hose

@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD ok, for future,(to late on starting it up this time😁 already tore it apart )

@@andrewdurfee2891 get a 55 gallon metal drum pour 5 gallons of previously mentioned and fill 2/3 water get a lp tank and heater for under it use bricks to elevate

@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD great! Thank you 🤗 I didn't see where your located , but i live in Northern Mich. 😖& The Brine substance they spread on the road is just a mess to work on vehicles, everything is rusted BAD , already had to replace the fuel neck/& am currently trying to replace the oil pan 😖 The1st thing i noticed when i looked @ the turbo is the nipple on the top right side is completely rusted off & line was just laying in there,( I'm not very familiar with these yet as i mentioned) i tried to tap where the nipple was previously so i could rethread a nipple & opoxy it back on there , but my tap broke🙄so i have to take it to a shop to see if they have a ³/16 tap removal tool , it's a mess/ my friend that owns a shop said i probably need to change out the "rear main seal" as well while I'm trying to fix all the leaks?

Same here man. Like ½ thick on bottom. Poor truck. I put filter in. Fired right up.

fluid,blocked radiator,cooling fan.thermostat, w pump, blocked oil cooler, blown head gasket, injector cups, computer codes ?

Assuming 99.5 to 2003 Cruise control module? On your truck, that's the PCM. The VSS sensor on the differential has nothing to do with ignition and fueling. It just measures the speed of the rear axle and reports that to the ABS module, which then sends that info to the speedometer. Don't look there. Here are the items that will affect the cruise control The switches on the steering wheel - They're on different circuits than the air bag, so the air bag light isn't a good indicator. The horn also uses a different circuit. The brake pedal position switch The brake pressure switch on the nose of the master cylinder The parking brake switch - Is the brake light on when you push the pedal down? If not the switch may be hanging up and the circuit is always hot but the bulb is burnt out. That would deactivate the cruise function. The Digital Transmission Range Switch on the auto tranny, or the clutch pedal position switch on a manual tranny truck. If you can get hold of a scan tool that is PowerStroke compatible, you can run the KOER switch test, activating all the switches during the test cycle - the cruise buttons, mash the brake pedal, clutch pedal, accelerator pedal, parking brake, etc. It will report back if a switch fails to change state. The clock spring in the steering wheel could be at fault, but the KOER switch test will point you at that if it is.

I have seen O.D. issues that turned out the be wiring short or broken wires in the two leads going through the handle the overdrive switch is in, on the steering column.

@@orcoastgreenman I found the problem… pissed me off when I found it. I swapped the brake switch a year ago, with a crap autozone one just to get the break lights working because I had to pull a trailer right away. Swapped it for a motorcraft one last week abs boom! Worked right away 🤦🏽‍♂️ So, yes, as always, only buy motorcraft.

@@StrongBodyandMind33 - glad you found it! Hopefully between our various comments this thread will help more people track down their 7.3 issues. 😊

@@orcoastgreenman always helpful! Thanks!

If you are using the factory air get a WIX it tests top quality. See one of the many tests kzfaq.info/get/bejne/qbBjf5B2ktvKiaM.html This guy does a excellent job testing My recommendation didn't come from here just years of in truck results but his video confirms what I've learned through experience

@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD Thank ya sir. I'm an old gasser mechanic. I bought my beast almost two years ago now and I've been watching your videos on what I need to do to it to keep it sound. Thanks for taking the time to make these!

@@CUSTOMWORKS7.3PSD wix makes the 46637. But adding this massive air filter means you're now pulling in hot engine bay air. Would you pass on this large filter on a 7.3?

Working on a stand alone video for this just waiting on some companies to get back to me on stock and guarantee's

Haven't seen this issue ever before in a SD but GM is real good for this usually find the problem in a bad connector loose or corroded or fuse box connection or fuse connection got loose and burned or ground loose or corroded

No Worries You bet Don't forget the tread lock

Can you tell me which lock thread PLEASE NOT TO SURE WHICH TO USE

@@davidgallegos5323 Loctite 638 Retaining Compound - Loctite 638 green retaining compound with a 24 hr cure time. Has a high retaining strength. Delivers great performance with a shear strength of 4500 psi.

@@davidgallegos5323 This also is good if you can't find the otherLoctite 620 442-62040 50ml Retaining Compound, High Temperature, Green Color

Good day brother again I’m up the creek apparently sales associates have no idea what I’m asking so I can’t find the green retaining compound any other suggestions thanks again ROOKIE MISTAKE LOL

We have to follow You Tube guide lines and can't share that at this point and we are booked almost 2 years out Our bread n butter is direct technical to auto mfg's When they can't figure out a issue we do We developed the fix for instance on the Ford 8 speed trans shutter

Not yet we are working on a quick ref guide

no ,, follow these 2 kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kLBldbZz09q4qnU.html or kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bNyBbK2ZlbDcmJc.html

Start here:First question is: Do your Brake lights work? And, your Parking Brake Light on the dash. Either should disable the fast idle. Second, try disconnecting both the EVB Tube Sensor and EBPV Plug. Third, check your MAP hose for a loose connection or hole. Lastly, monitor Sensor Voltage rather than values. BARO: 5 Volt Reference Circuit, @ 4.6 volts / 14.7 psig at sea level, decreasing as altitude increases. EBP: 5.0 volts Reference Circuit, 0.8-1.0 vdc / 14.7 psig EOT: 5 Volt Reference Circuit, 4.37 vdc @ 32°F, 1.37volts @ 176°F, 0.96volts @ 205°F. IAT: 5 Volt Reference Circuit, 3.897 vdc @ 32°F, 3.09 @ 68°F, 1.72 @ 122°F. check electrical shorts or broke wires

what year and any tuners

This is what I do in our fleet when we add a new truck. high volume lpop and hpop valve cover gaskets and wires sump at tank and filter between that and pump new sensors new gaskets at exhaust manifold new up pipes ball bearing turbo new boots and upgrade electrical wires from alternator and batteries n starter , dual ccv like in my other video If you want more power the above still needs to be done you can install larger injectors, there are many larger turbo options on the market and tuners But I look for longevity and the more HP you add in parts mean more issues later on keep in mind

Been there and that sucks Hey

Just a note - 1/2" doesn't keep mice out.

Like any other scanner some need to be updated or a program added to access all ECM PIDS Snap On updates and upgrades are usually free