14 minutes on how and where George Mallory gave up his 1924 Everest summit attempt

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Ай бұрын

This presentation illustrates George Mallory and Andrew Irvine's 8th June 1924 Everest attempt. The video will take you away from the often repeated narrative and hopefully persuasively show what they actually planned, where they climbed, how and why they had to give up, the accident that crippled Mallory, why they each took a separate route back, how Mallory's tenacity shines through, and how they sadly lost their lives.
Sources of note to explore further include:
KZfaq- 'Lost on Everest- 'The Search for Mallory and Irvine'- particularly section 4/5 where he is located and the rope around his waist is visable .
Jake Norton website (jakenorton.com)- including a response to a question about Mallory's route.
KZfaq- Jake Norton interview with Thom Pollard regarding a possible zig-zag route to the ridge
Michael Tracy and his KZfaq channel
Malloryandirvine.com
Everest1924.com
KZfaq- 'Epic of Everest' 1924 expedition film by John Noel
Everestnews.com (before the Mallory and Irvine content was moved) who interviewed Xu Jing
www.alpklubspb.ru/everest/everest52.htm for Wang Fu-chou's account of sighting Irvine
www.merton.ox.ac.uk/node/3214 for Ruth's condolence letter to Irvine's family
Photos of 1924 Expedition- Bentley Beetham, 1924 (bentleybeetham.org)
'Ghosts of Everest'- 2000- Jochen Hemmleb
'Detectives on Everest'- 2002- Jochen Hemmleb
'The Crystal Horizon'- 1989- Reinhold Messner
'White Limbo'- 1987- Lincoln Hall
Colnel Edward Norton dispatches in The Alpine Journal 1924
The Mount Everest Expedition of 1933 by Hugh Ruttledge in the Himalayan Journal

Пікірлер: 25

@opowqte 14 күн бұрын

From information that Michael Tracy has put together, and very well I might add, I 'd bet they made it, and the fall was on the way down.

@danamos4621 12 күн бұрын

If we could only find that equipment, we could all have another really interesting debate.

@stewartjohnking 13 күн бұрын

Excellent video. Not sure why Irvine would have abandoned Mallory when he (Mallory) was able to traverse all the way to the point at which he fell. And you will be aware that there are different views on how far Mallory might have fallen. You have made a case for disregarding Odell's sighting but it's a big call. Michael Tracy's theory, which includes a successful summit, is very persuasive but does rely on Mallory taking the zigzag route which no-one has identified, let alone climbed. So who knows?

@danamos4621 12 күн бұрын

Not many disagree with Odell, but as you say, I did. Thanks.

@davidashton9749 11 күн бұрын

Sorry ,I’m with M Tracy on this one.

@WWIIPacificHistory 13 күн бұрын

That’s a very reasonable theory. I think that Mallory getting injured and then traversing that far back before the final death fall is fairly implausible.

@martinwebb969 22 күн бұрын

Interesting and well argued theories presented in a non-sensationalist way. We'll never know the truth, but the suggestions in this video are at least plausible.

@danamos4621 19 күн бұрын

Thank you.

@wreckanchor 12 күн бұрын

An interesting take on this event. thanks

@danamos4621 12 күн бұрын

Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it

@bekmos 28 күн бұрын

Very interesting!

@keithfletcher5024 4 күн бұрын

Thanks for this video,always interesting to see alternative views on what happened,the second step was always put there to say they couldn't have climbed it ,but like say and Michael Tracey says they could have used the zig zag route.

@danamos4621 2 күн бұрын

Glad you enjoyed it

@johndefenderfer5946 2 күн бұрын

I am just glad that the narrative of the ridge route wasn't used in this story. Also, George's body was partially stripped by the team that discovered him. Given they took his pants off, any orientation of the position his legs may not be accurate. Btw, personally, I believe that they made it and perished on the way down, but that's only my opinion.

@am2sweet2 2 күн бұрын

This video is utter BS. This tool says that Mallory made it just as far back as Irvin with a hole through his forehead into his brain!

@sparkykitty6870 3 күн бұрын

Hate reading all this on the phone!

@danamos4621 2 күн бұрын

I know. Getting narration was too difficult

@eduardoprestes1663 12 күн бұрын

Too many "ifs" in that theory of Mallory taking two subsequent falls. It seems to me more a piece of fiction, sometimes without support on real facts. But one question is crucial: where are the oxygen equipaments (bottles and back-carrier) ? That would proof the route they choosed and position reached as clearly as the camera. If one of the bottles happen to be found around the third step, then the suspicious of Mallory summiting , maybe with Irvine, will be almost confirmed. The fact that no bottle was found on the ridge, above first step, suggest that the climbers traverse the yellow band, under the ridge. And I don't think that they would throw the empty bottles down on the slopes. They knew the discarded bottles would signal the route and proof their positions for future climbers. I think the equipaments are there, waiting for someone to be discovered. If they did the traverse, it almost sure that they reached the couloir. From there, nobody could know what happened. The bottles would tell us an important part of the history, if they could be found someday.

@danamos4621 12 күн бұрын

I agree that any equipment should still be in the couloir, on rocks/ledges but above where Messner and others climbed onto the pyramid face.

@eduardoprestes1663 11 күн бұрын

@@danamos4621This is my bet too, that there would be empty oxygen bottles in the so called zig zag area, on the top of Great Couloir. If Mallory and Irvine had taken the Ridge Route, climbers would had discovered more 2 or 3 oxygen bottles above first step. Well, .maybe the chinese throwed them down the Easr Face, in 1960 or 1975., who knows.. The only bottle discovered, as long as I know, was way below the first step.

@czarcastic1458 13 күн бұрын

Everyone thinks they got it figured out. The only tangible evidence is E of the first step and with those facts one could surmise they never even got to the first step before they fell.

@carolescutt2257 12 күн бұрын

Iam a keyboard voyeur climber and as such have no practical experience or knowledge. I have been fascinated by Everest and her lethal 'Siren Call' i WANT to believe that they made it to summit........but....... wonderful presentation and i await your channel gifts... are you a climber snd or have you climbed the Big E xx

@danamos4621 12 күн бұрын

Have done a little climbing, but not an Everest climber. Too expensive I am afraid.