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We're all trying to answer this backwards; the first question to ask is not, "could they have summited via the Couloir?" The first question to ask is, "what factors would have gone into Mallory choosing his route in 1924?" Every data point that goes into answering that question must come from no later than June 8, 1924. Since Norton believed the mountain could be summited by a route he saw from his highest point, I find no reason for Mallory to deviate from Norton's route before the point at which he believed he could improve upon it. Why would that point have come before the Couloir?

I support the theory that they took the zig zag route and so does Michael Tracy

Fascinating interview! However, I wouldn't say that Jake "all but blows the lid off the possibility that Mallory and Irvine took the Norton coloiur route". Messner's opinion is significant for sure,, however Messner has also changed his opinions on these matters from time to time so its leaves questions. As opposed to the modern ridge route theory,,, I believe Mallory would have taken some variation of Norton's route since norton/Summerville had just been there and mallory now had fresh intelligence on that route and Norton having made it to a world record elevation without even using oxygen. Considering M&I would be using oxygen,, this route would have been too compelling for Mallory not to take imho. This along with Odell's description of his sighting which seems to describe the third step compels me to believe M&I found some variation off Nortons route which worked for them yet still burned significant time as Odell saw them at 12.50pm nearing the summit pyramid moving strong. Probably it took Mallory considerable time to find the best line up and perhaps they even had to descend little to find a better line up like Messner...who knows. The one thing im 99% sure of is M&I did not attempt to climb the second step and if we are to analyze Odell's sighting he could not have seen them there. His own description of 5min for the figure climbing the step makes that impossible for the second step! Even with ladders in place its doubtful a modern climber could do it in 5 minutes! To even think this occured would put Mallory in a superhuman class and actually give even more support to the theory he made it to the summit! Then theres those who think they were seen at the first step. First, its doubtful Odell could even see the first step from his vantage point, second, if we accept he did see them at the first step,, then M&I took till 12.50pm to merely reach the first step which means there would have had to be some serious problem to be that far behind schedule (but certainly not a fall or injury because Odell saw them moving up strong) and they would have turned back and been back at camp early drinking tea and ending the expedition. There would have bene no point going on. They wouldnt have gone up any further. Mallory would not have wasted resources on what would for certain be a failed summit.

I know this sounds goofy, but I feel like you can know Thom is legit because his little chipmunk buddy comes up and says hello to the camera as Thom is speaking. That takes spirit.

If M&I traversed across to the couloir why didn't the 1933 climbers not find any physical evidence? The truth is, the highest piece of physical evidence was found before the First Step.

Noel O'Dell had excellent eyesight and didn't need glasses until he was into his 90's

I believe Messner traversed the couloir much lower than the hypothesized "zig-zag" route and there was minimal visibility that day (as seen on his summit photo) so I'm not certain how thoroughly he would have assessed the possible route. It would be terrific to see an expedition try to explore that area under similar snow conditions and assess possible routes and maybe even climb out through the zig-zag. I wonder if one reason it hasn't happened is that it would be an even more dangerous place to be than usual with a bunch of climbers overhead on the ridge.

If MALLORY can get to 8200+ metres in 1924....i dont think anything could have stopped him from making it to the top!!

At the end of the day..all we have is. Eye witness (odell)and a china climbing team that found Irvine...why would odell not be sure were he saw them ..this was a major deal at the time...2nd if Irvine was found by use of the ridge route then thats the route i must believe they took..and 3rd Mallory was one hell of a climber

I am a fan of both your channel and Michael Tracy's! Both channels are valuable resource for this Mallory Mystery!

A great discussion and meeting of minds. It's interesting how the idiom "opening up a can of worms" is used regarding the number of possibilities that have seemed to have increased about how Mallory and Irvine could have reached the summit. However, I wouldn't see it as "opening up a can of worms" as such, but rather "going further down that rabbit hole" as the complexity of this discussion makes this mystery even more surreal. Jake Norton's impression of Reinhold Messner is remarkable by the way!

Jake Norton played around at 28,000 feet. I just love this shit.

... as a German Biologist - this story is addictive - from the moment I saw the picture of Mallory lying down in a sort of “Crucifixion” pose. The remarks of Irvine about his condition - damages from high altitude, radiation, exhaustion. The super human work they were doing in relentless efforts of climbing. No rest, no regeneration. What was the physiological condition that Morning, when they got up - in disarray, what did they prepare for the climb? 8 hours or more of exhausting work - what were the resources - Water? Food? I am certain the goal was to reach the summit at all cost. Trying to find a Route that demanded still the least exhaustion possible. The turning back point must have been the Summit - not one Inch earlier. How did Irvine perform? To me- this is the crucial question leading to the “Crucifixion” event. The condition of the broken Ropes on Mallory. Did the ends point DOWN??? Was it Mallory on top - asking Irvine to get down as fast as possible - a short cut through the Yellow Band... Irvine too exhausted to go on... then Irvine slipped down, dragging Mallory to his final position - when he broke his leg in a sudden STOP on a Rock - the ropes broke - and Irvine fell over the Cliff. In my view - Irvine fell down and may never be found...

It's a shame that all parties interested in solving this mystery can't put aside their differences, their personal ambitions and try to communicate with each other to help possibly find the truth.

Always great to get multiple opinions on this topic. Great video.

Thank you for your work bringing this resource together & getting fascinating contributors to share their insight. I'm no climber but I can't put this mystery down.

Thom, you are a beast! Excellent job! Thank You!

Great video and thanks for posting. A couple of things - I think most of the "new evidence" that is mentioned has actually been available for a long time, such as the note from Mallory to John Noel. Also, I believe that Edward Norton turned around because of the time restraints, see Chapter 5, The Fight for Everest 1924. He notes that the going wasn't exactly difficult but, was dangerous for a solo climber. There was about 200 feet more of the terrain he was on before he reached what he describes as safety. Hence, from the description in the book, I think that it is fair to say that the Norton route would have been a viable route for Mallory, who was a superior climber to Norton. It is also worth noting that Norton set a height record without oxygen that was not broken until 1978 by Messner and Habeler and a solo height record without oxygen that was not broken until Messner in 1980, who coincidentally, pretty much went up the same route. Clearly, they were rock hard back in 1924! The Norton Couloir has been successfully snowboarded in descent as well, by an incredibly gifted young Frenchman.

It seems weird to not go the Norton route after the relative success without oxygen.