Great stuff

I fix campers for a living at a dealership. A few things I recommend: Proline PL wood adhesive. Just about the best wood glue you can get. Made by loctite if i remember correctly. Blue and yellow tube. Keep the roof vent. It will help get rid of a lot of excess heat when using the range. While this is stripped down this far you can run a power and ground wire for a 12v fan in one too. You also will want a vent in the bathroom as well and with a fan. If you’re putting in an RV fridge you will NEED an access in the side of the camper and a roof vent for the heat. You can run a cheap mini fridge and no vents or access too, but make sure it is screwed down properly. You will want a charger and fuse panel setup and plan where it will be before putting anything back in. You need to wire the camper before insulation and interior paneling. Generally, all hookups for utilities are on the left side of the camper, also known as the Off Door Side (ODS). These are usually shore power hookup, city water connection, water tank fill, grey and black water dump valve handles, sewer hose hookup, park cable (for the TV if you install one), telephone hookup. Honestly, that AC in the back window will be your best bet for an AC location, or install it in an overhead cabnet and have a vent to the outside, dont do the push out of that vent method. That vent may have been an old fridge access panel. Also, look up a camper called a little guy max, its layout would be a good one to mimic. Rear queen bed, front dinette that can convert to a bed, center bath on the ODS, kitchenette next to the door like on this one. Fridge next to bathroom. Also, if you do a rooftop AC unit, you can get one with a heat pump and then you dont need to worry about a furnace. Atwood and Suburban make good water heaters. I would recommend a 6 gallon unit that has a pilot light on it with a Unitrol control. Its the simplest to install. 1/2” pex for the water plumbing. You can put a fresh water tank under a dinette seat with the water pump next to it, just remember to drill the floor for a drain and seal it up. You can get a frosted window look sticker to go on the windows for the bathroom. Those style windows are called “jalousie” and they dont make new frames. If the frames are broken or bent, start finding salvage ones. They make panes, seals, and mechanisms though. Check the caulking every time the camper is moved and every couple of months when it isnt. Self leveling Dicor lap sealant for the mostly level surfaces on the roof to seal it, look for part number 501LSX, the X will be a different letter for a color; W for white, T for tan, etc. 551LSX is the part number for non leveling Dicor. Thats for roof edges and corners. Geocel ProFlex sealant is good for sealing in windows, doors, etc. Everything that is installed on the outside of the camper; moulding, doors, windows, rails for awning, appliances, etc gets putty tape/butyl tape to seal it good where the screws go through, and then seal it with the proper sealant. The sealants will come in a tube, so get a caulking gun. Also, the trailer has electric brakes. They probably have the style that the backing plate unbolts and a whole new backing plate with the brake shoes and hardware bolt back on. The magnets arent polarized so the wires dont matter how they get hooked back up. The drums or hubs can be bought as well. Any trailer store will have all those parts. Last tip I can think of right this minute, anywhere that you plan to screw something onto outside the camper, put wood on the inside of the siding now so that it has something solid to screw to. Things like lights, door grab handles, awning tracks, etc.

Thank you. Seriously so far the only video I could find on what to do first with step by step direction. Keep up the great work and thank you for your videos!!

What I would do is put the spring ontop of the axle

MAN! I wish I could weld... :-(

It looks really good so far

To think my dad traded this exact trailer for a 66 Ford Falcon. Yep, a 1964 Layton camper that was in great condition. Good work on yours

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Nice video

Nice video and project. Anxious to see the next installment. Did you ever consider using rectangular aluminum tubing for the floor joist. It would seem to be stronger and longer lasting.

Your doing an awesome job I just restored 1969 frolic pearl white with seafoam green gave it retro look. I'm not being rude but have someone that welds look or reweld to frame. Not sure that will hold. Other than that looking good.

Nice

Part 4 ?

How many man hours total did it take u to complete it Thx