Francesco, Well, I edited out the swearing and cursing so I could make it look like I knew what I was doing. :-)

Hi HoverbotFPV, It could be the plunger on the rear brake light switch that is catching on the side of the hole in the bracket it mounts on. Or maybe the foot pedal bushing is worn so the side the side of the pedal is rubbing on the frame. The above are just some hypotheses, not guaranteed reasons for the noise.

@@BrooksAirheadGarage Thanks! I thought it may be brake switch and not damaged piston as the bike is clean and brakes ok not crisp but ok. Bigger issue is my stock R60/5 power is out at headlight and everything except starter. I have power at main starter feed but none at bladed output to relay? Fuses ok. The diagrams are nothing like my BSA ones LOL! 30 year 441 rider retired to more? reliable BMW classics. Famous last words I know,

@@BrooksAirheadGarage My big bike channel is 441rider polaris silver r60 there.

@@hoverbotfpv1425 The starter relay is also the main path for all power to the bike. There is an internal connection that can break which means power from the battery does not exit the relay to the rest of the bike. You can see more about that circuit here: (/5 circuits)-brook.reams.me/bmw-airhead-motorcycle-electrical-systems/airhead-electrical-systems-5-series-circuits/ (/5 Components)-/5 Series Electrical Components

@@BrooksAirheadGarage Is the round relay/solinoid? mounted on top of starter? I will check the diagram but I de-cased the 3"2" metal box push button contact relay and no power entering it on any wire I suspect the red dual lead is coming from starter area. Glad it is stock no short when batt connected or V drop.

BIGGZ46, it's in the document about installing the electrical system: --> brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/61-bmw-1983-r100rs-rt-install-electrical-system/ This chapter: --> brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/61-bmw-1983-r100rs-rt-install-electrical-system/#Rear_Brake_Light_Switch_Sub-Harness

Hi Alan, These were unavailable for many years. I noticed that Continental brought them back using the latest rubber compounds, so I decided to try them out and see how I like them. I used Metzeler Pilot Activ on the 1977 RS, but mounting them is not very easy. The Conti's mounted very easily and the bead was easy to set, which is a plus. I'll get to see the difference in handling and longevity when I get the bike on the road.

@@BrooksAirheadGarage Yes I kind of remember that they got to were they were hard to find I had an R75/6 then. I think my RS came with Metzeler,the front tire had a chevron tire Patton that work well. On my /6 I always carried spar tubes with balance + in them I could change a flat in under 15 min. The my RS and K75 I ran tube-less tires and was lucky not to have had any tire trouble.

Brook's Airhead Garage Do you mean Michelin Pilot Activ ? Good tyres but mounting them on my R100CS snowflakes was a real challenge. Broke one tyre fitters machine and another blew a tube trying to seat them. Won’t be using the Michelins again.

@@lesleysmith5623 Yeap, they have a very stiff sidewall. You can not seat that bead on the side of the road if you have a flat.

Hi Chilly AK, Sorry, I don't have any recommendations for you.

No it should be solid Lars.

I adjust it by spinning the rear wheel and pressing the rear brake pedal. I want the brake to engage at about 1 inch of pedal movement

@@BrooksAirheadGarage Thanks for that. I’m a fan of your work.

Hi Kurt. I've been told that bleeding this brake can be a problem. I show the technique I was told should work which I show in the video. Clearly there is air in your system. But I don't have any techniques beyond what I show in this video.

For those with this problem, air entrapment is a problem. A suction brake bleeder is a good solution.

fostex fan, interesting. If you haven't already, be sure to read the complete assembly process using the link to the document on my web site in the summary of the video. I would verify that you can push the rear master cylinder plunger by hand without the brake pedal linkage attached to verify that the master cylinder piston is moving freely in the bore of the cylinder. I could also interpret your comment that the brake pedal linkage moves but does not move the plunger arm. Or, the plunder arm is moving but there is no movement of the brake pads. In the first case, the linkage adjustment is not tight enough, or the end of the plunger arm is on the edge of the master cylinder wall and not on the end of the piston. In the second, there is a leak in the system so brake fluid is not pressurized.

@@BrooksAirheadGarage I have studied your excellent documented process as provided in the link prior to disassembly and reassembly. The plunger is moving freely by hand and I also checked the movement with brake pedal attached with the spring holding firm against a part of the frame. The apply and release mechanism was functioning perfectly. Its when I come to assemble it back on the bike where the problem hits. I have to pull the pedal forward to reattach it and I'm assuming that by doing so I am pulling on the plunger thus allowing no further movement. So its a case of working out how much adjustment the linkage needs? I have tried six different positions along the thread which meant six different assembly's and reassembles. I have yet to put fluid in and bleed the brakes. But until I can see the plunger moving with pressing the brake pedal and returning because of the spring, I am rather stuck. How far along the threads would the best position be for the clevis pin?

@@fostexfan160 Well, I can't say exactly. I did not have the kind of problem you are having. I adjusted the linkage to just start to move the lever arm when the brake pedal was not depressed, then backed it off a couple turns. That seemed to give good rear brake action.

@@BrooksAirheadGarage A fresh approach I think Mr Brook. I'm going to assemble just the cylinder and plate to the bike and then attach the brake pedal to get a clear view of where the problem is. Thank you sir

Task completed. It would appear that the linkage needs only a few turns of the thread to allow correct reassembly and plunger movement. Its a little concerning but the locknut gives some reassurance. Bleeding is a nightmare on this cylinder. I will have to invest in a vacuum pump. Keep up the great work sir

Help air come to top

@BrooksAirheadGarage thank you. I've been fighting this setup for last 3days (off and on). I ended up buying the aurzapper just because of your videos. I tried your method and couldn't get it to work, there was always air trapped somewhere. What finally worked was to disconnect the caliper and let fluid make its way through the lines through gravity. Once I started to get fluid out of the line, I hooked up airzapper and ran it till only fluid was coming out. Then I quickly connected the caliper. Finally got a firm brake pedal now. Right now the caliper is still zip tied to the side of the bike, so real life testing will be later, but I think it'll work.

@@honzasgarage5125 Glad you got it finally bleed. 🙂