I liked the eagerness to get it together putting something on early that ends up making more work. Man who hasn’t been there. And resisting to put the body work on is so hard. The bike is looking amazing when you can look at one not fully assembled and appreciate it you know it’s going right.

I've been enjoying your Slabbie 7/12 resto series very much. I love the frames on these, the very first, GSX-R bikes. They were engineered to be so slim and light. The fact that you decided to do this with a really beaten up example is hugely to your credit. And has made the restauration infinitely more interesting. For bleeding sports bike brakes, where the handlebars are angled down, it's impossible to bleed the air out of the angle. I have had success turning the bars fully to the left, on the side stand, loosening the master cylinder clamp bolts and rotating the assembly until it is horizontal. That way, air can work it's way out just by riding to the highest point. Gently pulsing the brake lever a few millimeters seems to encourage it too. I see fine streams of air bubbles rising from the little hole inside the reservoir nearest the brake hose fitting. Good luck with the rest of the restoration.

Bleeding the front brakes can be be a real pain, I have found the pumping the brake until it builds up pressure, then crack the top banjo bolt clears the trapped air in the master, or you can get a banjo bolt with a built in bleed nipple, great resto!

Hi from the UK. I have a 1990 GSX750F. In the US it was badged as a Katana. Almost too nice to ride.. Full service history, and only 29k miles. It has as stock, the pre 88 GSXR motor, tuned to produce 20 bhp more than the Slab. It's a heavier bike with a steel frame so it makes similar performance numbers to the R. Very rare over here now, gotta love em.

Another great video. You gave me inspiration to start doing the small things on mine.......I now have the whole front end off the bike, the exaust and fairings. Small turned into massive. I ordered parts from all over the world to get it back to as much as possible to original looks. When I started, I thought it would be a week project, that was about a month ago and still parts all over the garage. LOL

Giving my fuel to start my own 86 gsxr 750 build

@true-moto-resto For locating the electronics, back when we raced 1st Gens, we used to add a 1/4" aluminum plate between the frame rails (where the airbox used to poke through) using rivnuts. This added additional rigidity to the loosey goosey 1st Gen frame, but also gave you a surface to mount all the electronics, where they would get better air flow.

Waiting for parts for older no- more- in- production bikes can cause nervousness , worrying if the correct parts will be delivered ....

Impresionante video como siempre, poco a poco va cogiendo forma nuestra querida Gsxr, ya queda poco para oír ese motorazo de la Bandit y la verdad es que los colores de Skoal Bandit también le quedan muy bien y están menos vistos, pero por favor ponle un par de adhesivos con los colores clásicos de Suzuki y asi los nostálgicos dormiremos tranquilos jjjj. Deseoso de ver el siguiente video. Gracias

Very nicely done! You are the Master I don't think the exhaust is titanium though, it doesn't corrode

Hey mate I’ve just played catch up and binge watched all your videos, great to see you restoring a GSXR. I’m 80% through a full nut and bolt restoration myself of an 87 GSXR750 with an original 8000 miles. Just a heads up on the exhaust, you mentioned it was a Yoshimura? Yoshimura headers are 4-1 and if you do some googling you’ll find a lot of photos of GSXR’s with Yoshi exhausts on them with no lower fairing… this is because the header pipes won’t fit with out modification to the lower fairing, and I know you’ve already painted them… I bought a full Hindle 4-2-1 exhaust system from Ripple Rock Racers in Canada which fitted with no mods and sounds great if you want to spend the extra bucks. Also if you’re going to run pod air filters don’t expect the bike to run properly without a heap of dyno time as they don’t like all the extra air sucking in and run lean down low, they spent 10 hours on mine on the dyno to get it running…. Keep up the good work.

Those pipes are definitely stainless and the collars are mild steel. You'll need to make sure they're fully welded or you'll have a leak down the collar. In general, a weldable stainless is 300 series which is Austinetic SS and isn't magnetic. 400 series are hardenable and can't be welded and are magnetic.

I wonder if brazing would be a good fix for that exhaust flange dissimilar metal joint? I do know when fitting aftermarket exhaust from gen one to gen two you may run into oil pan depth issues. Definitely dry fit everything and make sure the oil pan clears. You'll be swapping the oil pan and pick up unit if you run into issues. Large header can also be a problem with body work. I had to separate my belly fairing on gen two to run SS2-r pipe.

The 750 master cyls are quite angled, you need to take it off the handlebar and hold it level so any air trapped in the high spot between the piston and banjo fitting can bubble back through the bleed hole in the reservoir. Tap the lines, calipers and master cylinder with a wooden dowel (6" from your Mrs broom handle does the job) always helps move bubbles. btw, you're not leaving the caliper bolts painted gold are you?

if you like a challenge and doing fairings that will defo be bust then look for a Kawasaki GPX 750R or they might also call then Ninja

It`s always the small fiddly jobs that take the time, keep pressing on and it`s compulsive viewing for me. KTM build sounds interesting.

check kijiji . thers a guy in owen sound with parts