For everyone watching this in 2021, free-all is the best rust eater and penatrant oil to use. Its expensive, but trust me it works. This is the best video out there for this vehicle.

Five stars dude!!! Iv looked through forums, posts, and other videos. I saw yours, sat down, took notes, and im ready. Thanks a ton bro you saved me a 500 dollar bill!

Great tutorial! Really helped me a lot. I'm not sure why the suspension fork needs to be disconnected. I ripped a bolt head off trying to free it, but it turns out I could do the entire job without getting it loose at all. Also, some have commented about how difficult it is to get that ball joint out. I second that! I was ready to give up with the ball joint's bolt ending up all smashed and misshapen after repeatedly banging. I found I REALLY had to brace the entire assembly tightly against my feet, put a hammer or something metal below the ball joint bolt to kinda hold it in place, then WAIL as hard as I could with a sledge hammer... then it finally BUDGED! It was a happy moment. After that i just kept wailing and eventually got it to pop out. So DON'T GIVE UP... just keep whacking away with force... it really does take a lot of effort. Also I had trouble getting ball joint nuts back on cuz the ball joints kept spinning. Be sure to clean up your nuts and bolts well, WD-40 them, and use a large (4") C-clamp to squeeze them tightly while you tighten down the nuts. It's tricky. Car's driving much better now - no more scary clunking from my suspension! All thanks to this guy. :D

This is is a great video. I have one tip on the ABS sensor: You can gently tap on the back side of the sensor(side opposite bolt) and remove it. I figured this out after breaking the passenger side trying to "wiggle" it out. The cost for a new one is $28 at local Autozone and one hr. of my time anyway.

Helpful and informative video, Good. clear explanations, as you go, and not too much Camera movement, which I found difficult on another guys video I watched recently. Your work was clear and systematic. Left me confident enough to do the job. Thanks

This video will hopefully help me replace my lower ball joint on my 91 Honda accord. This will b the second time I've had to replace it but the first doing it myself.

Thanks for the video. I feel much more comfortable doing it myself after watching.

Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and expertise. High quality video. Clear and detailed explanation. You are very meticulous. The video is very informative. Watching you do it is like having a tour of the procedure. Thanks a great deal again.

Lovely video mate. Good instructions.

Good frame of reference. We will let you know how it goes... Thank you!

Great work! I appreciated the detail and explanation.Thank you!

The upper ball joint is also replaceable , the old one is pressed out with a hammer , the new can be knocked in with a hammer or use a socket and vice . The new one comes with a circlip to secure into the groove .As it is a large circlip , after fitting I use stainless locking wire through the eyes of the clip for added security. I have 2 Accord V6 Coupes in the UK . When breaking all the taper joints ,use a 2 lb + ball pean hammer ( not a 16oz chippies hammer ) and strike the casting firmly at the end .You are separating a taper joint that is not corroded . One blow properly directed is usually sufficient , if your not replacing the top joint , use a drift and hammer as the striking area is smaller . A 'C' clamp is not necessary simply gently tap the base of the joint until the taper locks in or place a jack underneath for the same purpose and just re tighten . Use old ATF and not WD40 . WD40 means 'water displacement formula 40 ' its not a penetrating fluid . ATF does a great job on corroded parts as it has both higher lubricity and better ' creep' ( the ability to get between parts ,hence all the special gaskets and seals in an automatic transmission gearbox) . If you mix it with a little pump petrol you get the same formula as the old ' Plusgas' penetrating fluid . I used the same mix to undo the engine bearer to bulkhead bolts on a P51D 'Mustang' that had been at the bottom of the North Sea since April 1945 . The bearer and bulkhead behind the firewall being aluminium is not a good place to apply heat but the old ATF out of my Honda CRV with petrol did a great job on those and many other seized bolts .

@ LongTimeTTFan - detail is a good and bad thing. Some criticize for me talking way too much with too much detail but here is my thought - if you're going to show and tell then you might as well explain what the part/component does and how to PROPERLY repair something. Some vids I see online just show how to pull it out without explaining anything and I've always believed that knowledge is POWER. Its your car - safety is paramount no matter how insignificant a part might seem.

I thought the whole point of this video was to show HOW to remove the ball joint. You start explaining at 12:30, turn off the camera to do the actual work to break it loose and then at 12:35 it's out!. Then at 13:48 you explain how yo are going to put it in, turn off the camera, do the work and 11 seconds later it's done. You missed the whole part of the video!

@Dongha- The upper joint was still very tight so there was no need to replace the upper joint. Upper ball joints can be quite pricey when purchased from Honda. I tend to use genuine Honda parts as I find their quality to be considerably higher quality (and more expensive) and if I'm going through the troubles of removing major parts on my car that I'd rather put in high quality parts once than to replace it over and over and over again.

@ Scott Duty - I knew the joints were loose when the car needed a wheel alignment and the stealership said the lower joints were getting a little loose. This Accord is a V6 model so the front end is quite heavy putting and the roads here have many bumps and potholes leading to premature wear. I've had a 91 Civic that was on the original ball joints at 500, 000 kms! YMMV

Hey buddy. I thought the video was informative and pretty straightforward. While some viewers found it lacked info and other thought there was more than enough, there are several ways to do any job. That being said, everyone wants their "work" to shine and criticism is hard to swallow. My advice to you is to thank others for their comments, good or bad, learn from each one and make yourself better. I have been behind the camera for many years and I produced stinkers. great job on the editing and audio. If you aren't comfortable showing your face on KZfaq get some close shots using a tripod and show a few action shots. Don't say seven words when four will do. Good luck.

Is there any chance of looking at the base of the lower ball joint for the "B" without taking things apart? I'd like to have my parts ready before starting. It's sad that this can be either $50 for two lower ball joints or $380 for both arms. Great video! Love the detail and tips.

I appreciate your good work here in clearly explaining how to do it. I had forgotten what a pain it is dealing with rust. How do you know a lower ball joint is bad? Does the handling suffer or do you just look for tire wear or looseness?

Nice video, it helped a lot. thanks!

Few pointers. Wasn't necessary to loosen the fork. Always use a center punch to remove the axle shaft.to prevent the risk of damage to the end. Ball joint separation tool can also be use to loosen top arm ball. joint . If using a hammer you should pound closer to the ball joint.

Only suggestion I got is there is a wonderful tool called a pickle fork, it works wonderfully to separate balljoints and tierod ends.

Nice work

Great video....How did you determine you needed to replace both ball joints?

Excellent instructional video. Well produced. Thanks

@ deeerkila4life - yes you're right that you can use a pry bar! I should've stated that before. I just coincidentally went for an alignment and they said it is loose. Great tip for all!

Great video.Thank you very much.

Thank you buddy

good video, thanks, you sound really Canadian...would also explain all that corrosion...damn road salt!

Great detailed video ;)

greetings friend! I would like to know what number is the largest socket you used to loosen the nut in the center of the brake disc. I want to do the same job for my 2000 Honda Accord, thank you!

great video!

11:45 Bro I thought you were gonna say "grind off the B on the bottom" 🤣🤣🤣🤣

You do great videos.....do you have one that covers replacing 2005 lower balljoints?

was planing to change mine , but it looks to complex. ill have to see more video . or see this one again

thanks for the video.

you're welcome!

good video

Very good video. What would you estimate the cost would be to have it done at a shop? Thanks!

Hey I know this is old, but do you remember when you order the oem ball joint, did it come with the nut and pins to help lock it in place?

Just curious why you not changing the upper joint while you're at it?

if you have the ball joint tool... why did you use it for the upper control arm ball joint or the outer tie rod ?

Was just wondering how much time this takes from start to finish for both lower ball joints?

Is the steering knuckle assembly layout the same for 4-cyl variant of the 02 accord?

Also how do we know the top of the ball joint is not replacable, i need some tip to understand whether it is replacable or not..

i have a question i changed my cv axels off my 98 honda accord ex 4 cylynder just time for people that see this u have to bang i mean bang the bottom nuckle and try not to famage the balljoint but like i was saying i have a clicking sound not realy clickbut like a thump when i hit a bump is that cus the cv axels aren ew or could that be my lower ball joint

Excellent video....thank you for sharing. :)

I see a 24 mm socket on the old ballj oint stud. Does it fit over the stud for you to hammer the old joint out?

How long did it take you to do both ball joints from start to finish?

Hi. Why did you detach the upper control arm castle nut again?

i mean new or did i install it wrong or is it because something els pleas let me know i dont wont my weel to fall off or any of hat

im going to take a look sound like something is loos every time i hit a bump under neeth in the right area to the cv axel all the way to the weel s sound like a hourse foot step every time i hit a bump but thank u if you do have a feeling or come up with what that mite be please let me know you do the most best discribe videos of how to do thank u again

What purpose did it serve to detach the upper control arm?

hi, what is the sledge hammer pounds that u are using. 4 pounds or so.

Why do you have to hang the brake calipers on a wire?

What size socket you used to push the ball joint out?

What size was the ball joint separator?

what size is the axle castle nut?

Control arm and ball joint are not single assembly

How do you tell the ball joint is bad?

Why turn off camera while actually removing ball joint?

Just replaced ball joint two weeks ago and it broke...been here for an hour and it won’t come out 😂

that steering knuckle is so cracked tho

Turn the castle nut upside down. Don't beat your components, use a fork, they're stupid cheap.

why are u beating the crap out of the nut just hit the spindle 😂😂😂😂😯😴

You lost me when you started pounding on the ball joints to break the connection. You have a ball joint separator, why didn't you use it on the tie rod/ UCA and save the whole process lots of unneeded hammering and cussing...? That tool is one of the most used of my general suspension tools, and not too pricey. Every DIYer should have one. Also, as per Honda shop manual, only use a rubber/ plastic mallet on the drive axle end so as not to potentially damage the wheel bearing from impact force. Otherwise, a good video.

you explain things but don't actually show doing them, that really makes it less clear

owning a 2001 accord r u s t

no point watching this guy skipping a lot of steps cant learn anything

Worse teacher in my life

you talk a lot and do not teach anything

you talk lot not teach anything

greetings friend! I would like to know what number is the largest socket you used to loosen the nut in the center of the brake disc. I want to do the same job for my 2000 Honda Accord, thank you!