Thanks for being truthful about this lift. I have been considering installing one on my 1996 K1500 for years now, but this video just convinced me not too. I think for me leaving it stock will be best. I’m excited to see more on those Kryptonite front end parts you got.

My 2001 GMC 3500 Dually for years looked like a wedge going down the street. The front end was always sitting on the bump stop, so my son and I cranked those bars and now the truck rides level and feels better. I have put 3 ton of wet sand in the 8 foot bed and didn't even hit the overload springs.

Great job Jimmy! Honest, thoroughly tested review. Glad I didn't rush out to get one for my Suburban.

Your first video and this one was the deciding factor on whether I got this kit or not. Thank you so much for making it. Saved me a bunch of headache

I did the same lift kit to my 1999 suburban a little bit after you posted your video of doing it. yeah i've had a hard time aligning mine also. I just had it aligned for the third time and it is still a little off. I've just decided that its good enough and im going to keep it how it is. Im really happy with the tires I have under it though. They are 33" Maxxis razrs MT. I would highly recommend them to anyone. I get insane amount of grip in all surfaces, even deep snow. Ive even crossed through a stream with them no problem. If I could do it all again though I would not do the lift and just trim the fenders a little bit to fit the tires.

Everyone I know always chops off those bump stops for the control arms when they lift it- Obviously it was put there for a reason but in the 3 years I have had my listed truck I haven't experienced a single problem with chopping it off- actually I've noticed the opposite! As far as off roading it has given me so much more travel in the front. I don't know about your suburban but I'm my Silverado has another bump stop on the lower control arm which does a good job of still giving you some support. Appreciate the video though! There's a lot you hit on that I would have loved to know 3 years ago haha

I don’t know who you are but you respectfully annihilated Rough Country.. lol. I love it, your truth and honesty. Yes they need to make a bracket like a shock extension but for the control arms in the opposite direction obviously.. and quit being cheap. Great Video - after this I said heck no and put the 285’s on my 16 x 10’s and called it good for this season at least 😂.. My 2DR is pulling strong here in Michigan - I love when the snow comes, we just had some this past weekend and my transfer case went out… 😊 I’m from Brooklyn New York this weather is different. Got home safe no issues! Great Video and please do some more of other projects! We’d love to see. Chevy Tahoe!!

I used lift keys and Kryptonite upper control arms on my silverado 2500hd. No issues after 50,000 miles.

Watching this trying to decide if I want to use this lift kit on our 1993 632 big block Suburban build...your burb is insanely clean

Have a RC lift kit on my 97 silverado 1500 for 7 years now and man it's worth every penny.

That amount of lift is just right for that vehicle.

I have a 94 k1500, I did the 2 inch blocks and also used the Rc keys, I did about the minimum crank on the keys and got about an inch and 3/4 lift in the front. I think maybe if you just would have done the keys only in the front it would have been way easier and maybe closer to the results you wanted.

I love this video ❤. Excellent review Sir. By what you said in totality, I think performance was a big deal for the project and the purchase was not the right one for the performance needs. Totally get it and I appreciate the honest feedback. I was going to be having it installed but I will prob do a lot of it myself. I don’t desire the performance of towing, rock crawling and such. My truck is a daily driver and may be used for hauling not so heavy stuff anyway. Thanks for taking the time to do the video. 👍🏼

There are 2 reasons why the front lift is more than the back. 1. these vehicles almost always come from the factory with more height in the rear than the front and, 2. when off roading, since you have a fwd bias weight balance because of the engine, you potentially compress the front springs more when you hit a large bump or dip so you need a bit more suspension travel there. The front modestly higher is NOT an engineering problem with the lift kit. You can buy a larger block for the rear if desired, make sure you get appropriate U bolts with it.

Don’t get me started about those spacer tabs 🤦🏼‍♀️ I remember all of this. The phone calls and working on it and talking about it to me for days and days hahahah Love you babe! Great video.

This has added to my research. Thank you for posting the "long term review"!

You're completely right. I have a 92 1500 Silverado 4x2 ( springs inted but basically the same problem ) I had the exact same problem with down travel and alignment and when the wheel moves up the alignment changes really bad giving you an unsafe feeling ( probably it is ) all this issues are gone in my case when I add an extra cross member ( Rancho kit) . This holds the lower control arm giving it more space between both control arms and the right angle . Of course you will need a kit with longer links and probably in your case, spindles. The rear suspension is very easy to fix . Give it a chance before you take it off . One more thing , the kit will probably move the " offset" out (that happened in my case )and will look better in my opinion . And some spacers in the back :)

I have a 1995 C3500 and love it. Your videos are absolutely setting the bar.......really high.

Thanks Jimmy! I have a 1999 Tahoe and everyone is telling me to lift it. Mine has low mileage and needed some general work done to it. Figured it smart to get the Tahoe 100% safe and reliable before I start messing with lifts (which I am almost at that point of deciding on a lift) and was looking at this Rough County lift but like you couldn't get over the torsion bars being used to lift the truck. I follow another guy on KZfaq and he brought up the same issue you addressed here with this kind of lift. Thanks for saving me the headache and hassle if I were to have gone down this road.

Part of a suspension lift is that the lower control arm is replaced with a modified lower control arm to combat the excessive positive camber by giving a slightly more negative angle so when the lift happens your camber will be close to the factory spec of camber.

Thank you for being truthful in this video about this lift cause now I'm deciding to go with another lift just wish there where more reviews like yours about other lift kits.

I have a very similar lift, I did the ebay one that are the same components. I don't have the same issues. I kept my stock shocks, I also kept the stock control arms. I used the keys from the lift. I have a good alignment, The front is exactly 1 inch lower than the back. Once you replace the control arms with the stock ones. Try keeping the RC keys and adjust them so the front is 1 inch lower than the back. I also switched to a coil over front shock. This allowed for less tension on the torsion bars. Did not need the shocks for the alignment to work. I hope it all works out. Let us know what happens after removing the RC control arms but leaving the RC keys. Keep'em coming, stay on the road!

I hate to bash on anyone's products, but I've had your same experience with RC. Put a 4" on my Toyota tundra, yeah that was not smart on part - but after three years,I did the same thing, pulled it off and put on a quality lift that returned my ride quality and didnt need an alignment every year.

The reason the rear is lower in your case is because it’s a suburban. The rear half of your truck is MUCH heavier than your standard ext cab K1500 pickup. Like you said these are average/guesstimating measurements for different cab configurations. Glad to see you’re still working on this ole girl!

I actually love this kit because I actually put it on my 98 Tahoe.And it worked amazingly And all I did was just take it off-road a couple of times and to some trails and some off road sections near my home. The truck actually performed a lot better than a dead stock And I barely lost any fuel economy.I went with Falken wildpeak at3w LT265/75/r16 I can't wait to try this on my 1999 tahoe 4x4 I was actually really stupid for selling my last one On this next one i'm going to do a HT383E GM create engine with a 4L80E auto transmission Next time i'm using AT4W Falken wild peak

You're the man! I was considering doing a little 2-in lift to try to fit bigger tires under my 96 Yukon but I honestly I'm not a huge fan of the look... Because then you're basically forced to run an oversized tire, speedometers already way off, I'm not down for a much harsher ride and the inability to align properly. I remember when I had my Jeep TJ one guy called rough country rust country and told me that they were garbage. I'm guessing old man emu and stuff like that would be a better lift but I'm sure it would be substantially more expensive. The other thing I don't think I heard you mention is if you're dropping your front differential by 2 in to keep the axles at the proper angle then you technically are losing the ground clearance that you were trying to gain in the first place. You end up at the same spot with a harsh ride and a goofy look. Really appreciate you sharing your insight

I was very skeptical when I considered purchasing a “leveling kit” for my 1998 Chevrolet k1500 so I done quite a bit of research also. I ended up piecing together a leveling kit which included 2500 heavy duty extended swaybar end links, 1-3” adjustable torsion keys, and 1-3” freedom off-road upper control arms. I previously replaced the idler/pitman arm with MOOG replacement parts along with the original shocks on the truck with bilstein 4600 series with no shock extenders. After all the components were installed the torsion keys were only turned about half way up and the shop that aligned my truck had to remove a key/tab so they could align it properly. The truck handled and drove amazing especially since I had enough space between the upper control arm and the bump stop. I could easily clear a 285/75r16 maxxis m/t tire on a 16x9.5 billet specialty wheel or a 305/70r16 Toyo m/t tire on 16x8 weld wheel. I hope that maybe this info will help with someone looking to do something similar. Thanks for the great content that you’re able to distribute and help spread knowledge.

Thanks, I have been following all the why and have been waiting for this

For the tire size you have (which I believe are LT26575R16?), stock height would be just fine. My brother's 95 k1500 Z71 came with that size of tire (even listed on the door jamb) and the few times we've ever run it in the desert or mountain trails it was a pretty capable stock vehicle. I myself have a leveling kit on my 2500HD that came with the truck when I bought it from my other brother, and just like you said, any bump on the road on the downward travel you can feel and hear it. I thought about putting it back to stock configuration, but my tire alignment is just right currently. Howdy from Rio Rancho NM!

I have the same lift kit on my '95 Chevy K1500. I'll have to take a closer look at the bump stops. It does have a harsher ride, but I attribute that to the stiffness of the suspension and the crappy RC shocks. I plan to install a pair of Bilsteins (unsure of 4600 or 5100) right after I build a new rear bumper with a swing-arm spare tire carrier. I recently made a round-tripper from Texas to Joshua Tree and back without any noticeable problems (except for the gas mileage :-) ) EDIT: I checked my bump stops with the vehicle at rest in my driveway...I can pass my fingers through the gap between the bump stop and control arm. Don't know how this compares to yours.

A 4x4 mechanic told me rough country is the great value brand of suspension lifts. Does the job but don’t expect miracles.

I have heard what you just honestly told us. Thank you. Where I live (and you use to) on the West Coast, costal, most trucks are 90% for looks and 10% for function. So, ........ RC sells lots and lots of kits and as far as your truck regarding looks, I give it a 10 (Ten). It really looks great and not stupid high. It looks factory and you always do a great job making things look like factory (lights, stereo, ......). I am glad you dumped the kit. Smart of you. My '96 K2500 Suburban looks higher than yours and I am not sure if it is due to factory size tires or if 3/4 tons just sit up more. I like the stock look of my truck. If it was higher it would be a pain for me at 65 years old to get in and out of. Your viewers really appreciate your honesty! Would factory 3/4 parts raise your truck and give you factory ride??

I thought that if you had a lot of positive camber it was b/c you had your torsion bars cranked too much and you had to lower them some. However, he is saying he had to crank them more? I'm confused.

Replace the steering knuckles with taller ones that relocate the the upper ball joint higher. That would take care of the front, giving you that upper suspension travel. As for the rear end sag, you can fix that with a taller 3 or 4 inch lift block or possibly adding lift shackles. That would correct the rear and raise it back where you want it.

Thanks Jimmy! I watched your video on the install. I have a 96 K1500. I almost went out and bought the kit, but didn’t have a garage. Now I’m glad I didn’t.

Really appreciate your diligence and review, thank you

When you crank your torsion bars up...., you are essentially pre-loading them. In effect, this affects the ability of the axle to "drop" normally when travelling over bumps, potholes & ruts thereby increasing both the harshness and rebound of the front suspension. While gaining more height, wheel travel "droop ability" is less and directly proportional to the amount you crank them up. So you must ask yourself--is it worth it? I have the Superlift 1.5 - 2 inch suspension lift for my 1998 Chevy K1500 Z-71. Though no longer offered by Superlift, it does an admirable job without the headaches of this Rough Country. It came with a differential drop bracket that required no modification and re-uses the stock torsion bar keys versus new keys. The only disadvantage to this is you only get about 1.5-1.75 inches of lift versus 2-3 inches. I'm satisfied with that and it allowed me to run P285 BFG mud tires. I also had to have multiple alignments but found a sweet spot that gives me really good tire wear even though the alignment machine shows it not quite within specs--especially "camber" Great video and I love watching your modifications.

Back to the basics! As the feller said below I have 2000 k2500 and he replaced the stock keys with 2-3" lift keys and it rides horrible so I'm going to either crank the ones installed down or replace with the stock keys and crank those up some to get a smaller lift, the other owner also killed the shocks because he didn't use extenders and the front is bouncing all over the place!! Good luck with your project, I guess that's why we call them projects there never finished lol!!

Your Suburban looks Great 👍 The lift is a 2. Excellent decision to take off the RC lift. Look into a "Pro-Comp" lift. I have had a 6" "Pro-Comp" on my 2005 Chevrolet Silverado HD 2500 Duramax Diesel 4x4 for over 360k miles now and I love it.

I have the same lift on my 94 GMC Sierra. I have had none of the issues you've had. No alignment issues, I'm not maxed out on my torsion keys either. Not sure where the difference is between our two lifts though, I did have to replace my tie rods at install as well however...

Look into replacing the upper control arm bushings with eccentric ones. I had the same alignment issues and swapping in eccentrics allowed me to get a proper alignment with the front end at a level height with the rear and retain a soft compliant ride because the bars were barely cranked. Solved all the issues you noted. May be worth a shot before you remove the lift. ACDelco and SPC both have options.

The Freedom off-road upper control arms will work with the Rough Country kit and allow you to align the front end properly and give you more clearance between the upper control arm and the stop perch giving you more travel than the Moog control arms you installed.

Looks good. Look and see if you could get different upper control arms that have a different geometry in them.

This will help alot of people in deciding if they want to buy this same set up or not.

Have you thought about trying the suspension max adjustable keys? I had to use those on my 94 k1500 as other aftermarket lift keys just didn't have the adjustability I needed. My driver side naturally sits lower than the passenger side even after everything suspension and steering related was replacement. No alignment issues, and the ride isn't terrible.

Hi Jimmy, A good diff drop will also relocate the lower control arms to a lower position. They will come with replacement lengthened knuckles to get correct geometry. Of course the price goes up with this. Also, to keep people straight on what you are talking about, those are "droop" stops, not bump stops. The bump stops cushion the upward travel.

There’s a trick you can do you take that ball joint abs put it under the upper control arms and it helps with when you have the keys cranked up and keeps it from hitting the droop stops

Wow I have a headache listing to your problems and I just caught my breath at the end, woooooosh

Thanks, Jimmy! You saved me a lot of time and frustration. I was planning on installing this same lift on my '94 Chevy Suburban. But, not anymore. I am shooting for more function than fashion. 'Cause damn, they bulit these beast with comfort in mind. Big Blue is smooth as hell on the highway. Anyways, any suggestions on good 2-3 inch lifts for 8th gen Suburbans, guys? Not new to turning a wrench but definitely new to lifts. Cheers.

I have the same lift, I upgraded my rear springs to 6 leaf and it made a big difference in the rear.

Excellent video and honest take on your lift kit. So many swoon when they drop some coin on upgrades. Enchanted by the hype, and the fact they paid for it so it must be a good purchase. Kind 9f like when I paid $1100 for a KW Varient 1 coil overs on my 1991 VW corrado. Everyone boasted these were the bee's knee's of suspension. While my handling was crisp, and my car did hug the road better. The ride was harsh, and not adjustable rebound. Honestly thought they are ok, maybe I should have dropped another $300 for the Varient 2, and got adjustable rebound. But honestly don't feel they were worth the $1100 price tag. Thumbs up on your honesty.

Took my 3" RC lift out too. Front Differential hanging down is a concern so I'm still fiddle farting with that. I didn't remove the torsion keys though. I was able to get the truck back to stock ride height with them left in. 1996 K1500 diesel Silverado

Bro these videos are just great in every aspect! Keep the Obs content up man

Good thing I watched this one. I was really thinking of getting the 2-3" kit from RC. I am definitely leaning more towards the 4" kit since it adds whole new mounts for the upper control arms.

I had a RC 6” lift on a 96 f250 , no issues at all. Torsion bar lifts aren’t really proper lifts , they are mainly cosmetic lifts.

I think it looks perfect. Very usable & tires aren’t to big.

They sell specal alignment bolts to fix your problems and lower those torsion bars.

Have you thought about doing a SAS ( straight axle swap) ? This might be a good time to do it, before investing in new ball joints and the rest.

My thoughts, (almost), exactly... I have an 05 Avalanche and my biggest concern is the torsion key lift will put a lot of stress on the factory ball joints. I have new upper and lower control arms with ball joints in them, but I'm afraid to wear them out prematurely. I know 6" lifts come with lower control are relocation brackets, but I don't want to lift that much. I like the look of the stock height, so I don't want to change it much. All I wanna do is level it without hurting anything.

Ive done a couple of those and back in those days i think back then it was skyjacker kits we did have to modify a lil but nothing too sucky ur truck is sweet still has that og look,, a nice polish would be cool

Too me it’s just wasting money if I would lift my truck and what you experienced I’m not going to bother I don’t want those headaches my truck is fine the way it is Got New tires and rims that my girlfriend bought for me and very happy just paint the calipers and call it a day and change the air intake that’s all. Thanks for the video

Dont blame you for removing it, those issues would drive me nuts!

This lift seems like a mall crawler lift. Why not spend the money and get a better lift for off road? I currently have a 2004 GMC 2500hd 4x4. It doesn't have a lift and continuously bottoms out in our pasture over small levees and big pot holes in our California roads. I would love a good lift. This truck has to tow a livestock trailer, haul heavy loads and travel empty reliably. My old truck was a 1969 3/4 4x4. It was lifted wrong when I bought it in high school (blocks up front, unhooked park brake cable, stretched front brake lines and no drop steering arm). I fixed all that with a 4" Rancho lift then I went to a 4" Skyjackerlift. The Rancho springs sagged over time with the weight(150 pounds) of winch and bumper. I used it on actual 4 wheel drive runs (not rock crawling), hauling and towing the stock trailer. The 69 out performed the 04 off road (hands down), ease of maintenance and smoothness on road (because of 36" tires probably). The 04 has better fuel mileage (17 vs. 10 )(duramax vs. 454) and more cab room, 4 door vs. single cab. But basically lifted is much much better than stock height. Also, the torsion bars are almost maxed out to keep factory ride height. Apparently they are worn out. 04 has 348, 000 miles. 69 had just over 100,000 when I bought it and I put about 200,000 before the odometer quit and drove it regularly another 5-8 years. So if you are going to use your vehicle as an overland vehicle, put on a good quality 4" lift and at least 33" tires. Or go old school and get a straight axle suburban and fix it up. Check out Merricks Garage. He built an awesome suburban. You don't have to go to the extreme he did. But my 1969 was my daily driver from fall of 1984 (high school senior year) through college, a job, marriage, kids and a small cattle business. Also 4 wheel drive runs and deer hunting. In 1998 I bought a Chevy S10 to commute to work but the 69 was still used regularly towing and hauling until 2008 when we bought a used 2004 GMC 2500hd 4x4.

You wouldn't gain travel but to soften you can take tx-bar out drop lower arm and replace bar and tighten it won't take as much and will loosen some tightness

I would rather have the front end up higher. So you don't nose dive into those mud holes. I would also never use blocks in the rear, because I like wheel travel. I'd get new springs. Now, it's a damn shame you have to go through this crap. I would find a way to get that diff back up. Or find another lift. I just picked up a 98 Suburban 2500. I think I'll leave the height where it is, for now. Just replace the Bilstein shocks. It sits pretty high. Thanks for all your videos I watched them all.

IF you replace those Bilsteis shocks with KYB shocks your ride will improve so much

I put a 3 inch body lift on my 91 K1500.. It was easy and looked good. Maybe that is a better option?

Hi Jimmy, Have you looked into changing out the rear leaf springs or front torsion bars on your suburbans? I’m looking at changing my front torsion bars on my 1993 K1500 four-wheel-drive suburban. Was trying to find someone who’s done this already and see what weight rating torsion bars they went with.

Dam I have a totally new outlook on lift kits now . I have a 95 k as well . Thank you 👍

I too will leave my 99 suburban stock. Thank you for the info

Wonder if this is more of an issue with the suburban… @autoedits has a similar style of lift and 35’s but loves it. Y’all need to do a Q and A video together.

What size tires did you put on the stock wheels? Glad I watched the video, I’ve been eying a RC lift for my 96 Silverado, now I think I’ll pass.

I think it's been said. How about keeping the keys and just reinstalling the factory upper control arms? Arguably it's one of the easier things to do, so start there.

From my experience these kind of lift is only good for 2 inches approximately. Yours is WAY over cranked. My ride was awful when I crancked the keys. I fine tune it to be perfect. My key bolts are out almost completely they move up the keys up like 1/4 of an inch or less. One thing to keep on mind; half a turn on those key bolts makes a WORLD of difference when is set up as I mention above. My vehicle is a1995 2 door Tahoe with only the upper Rough Country control arms and the tortion keys. I did not lower the front diff. The alignment shop didn't have any problems with my set up and it drives great. Forgot to mention I I installed BILSTEIN 5100 shocks. 33 Mud Grapplers on factory wheels, no rubbing.

the whole alignment thing is why my 88 K1500 is still sitting at the stock height

thanks really apreciated your time im happy didnt get one until i watch ur video looks nice but yep to hi on front and safty first u rigth 👍👊

Jimmy, get the dedicated upper control arms for a 2-4 inch kit that will solve the problem of angle of the upper control arm tbat yiu have right now

Kryptonite will be dropping suspension leveling and lifts soon! hopefully you will consider!

Just crank the stock keys it doesn't take much to level it out I had plenty more to go on mine if you have to use other keys to get any amount of lift that just tells you the bars are already worn out and weak to begin with and by the time you crank the crap out of them there going to be stiff as a board. I used to run a 34" equivalent tire for awhile now running 33x11 for the past 4yrs no issues I rebuilt the whole front end prior to the crank truck has over 350k on it the only complaint I've ever had was my alignment shop not setting my camber to 0 degrees because they wanted to go factory specs. I have debated dropping the front diff but after the years I have been running it I still haven't rubbed any holes in the cv boots the angles are pretty decent and truck still drives and rides like normal. I helped a buddy put the RC kit on his and he got greedy he ditched the 2" rear block and added a 4" block and maxed out the front even though I told him he would hate it he went that route yeah it jacked it up but rode terrible no down travel and was tearing up cv axles drove like crap.

10. ... Looks great...you are so interesting

Would give it a 10 if it were level front to back

Lack of bottom travel has always been an issue with torsion key lifts. I wouldn't do it without also adding an upper control arm designed for this and then no more than 2 inches. I wouldn't like the front higher than the back either. I also don't care much for RC lifts, at least the older ones. Maybe they're different now.

There are several companies that make upper control arms Kryptonite being the only one I can remember right now they have a curve in them that gives you a lot more down travel and some of the companies even make him a justable so you can move the ball joint back and forth and be able to align it at any height maybe it helps thank you

You helped me make my decision about rough country, they ain’t it.

I have that same lift for my 92 Sierra and I didn’t have to crank the keys. Mine drives better than before because the stock keys were cranked up and rode bad.

Hey Jimmy. Thanks for your review. I just picked up a super clean 87k mile ‘98 Chevy Tahoe. Your review just saved me from ruining my truck. I wish there were better options for these trucks. I hate all that mess with dropped torsion bars and brackets hanging down on the 4 to 6 inch lifts, and was hoping this 2-3” lift was a “good enough” solution. Sounds like it’s not. Looks like my options are to leave the truck alone, or solid axle swap it. For now I’m just going to enjoy my truck for what it is.

Tightening the torsion bar keys does not make the front suspension stiffer at all. All it does is change where the set point is. You're just rotating the whole assembly a little bit. The stiffness It's controlled entirely by the dimensions of the torsion bar, which don't change and the properties of the metal, which also don't change. It's actually similar to adjusting the 0 point on a Spring scale.

Please post the after work video so we can check out the more stable riding suburban

Jimmy get some "old man emu " suspension it's from Australia really good stuff you might pay more but you won't get all the trouble the cheaper ones give you. Let me know what you think of it

I'd say a solid 8.5 an that's me being conservative .. I like it bro bro

As a guy who has been considering this exact lift for a few weeks (and watching your other videos about it in the process) I can't thank you enough for this long term review. I'm definitely not going to go this route now.

I'm surprised you made it this long with that kit Jimmy.I always tell everyone who asks;if you don't care about ride quality and just want a lift,buy RC.For people who are into having a nice ride and a lift,stay away from RC.The reason RC sells so many lift kits is because they are the cheapest.

The upper control arms from Rc must be designed for more than 2” lift if u had to crank torsion keys all the way to get it to align

I’d say 9.5 out of 10 Jimmy! Not too obnoxious and definitely not the Grandpa 👴 look.

Appreciate the honesty.

Take a shot every time he says " droop stop"

The front end doesn't sit higher, the front wheel openings are taller and wider to accommodate the turning of the front wheels.. When lifting these Don't measure from the ground to the bottom of the wheel opening to determine whether level or not. Measure to the body line for level and then re-measure the front wheel opening height and guarantee the front will be at least 1" - 1.5" higher when vehicle is actually level.

Great review Jimmy.

Hello I like your videos they are very helpful and cool. Also i have a 99 yukon and I need some assistance. I put l.e.d bulbs in my rear lights and they are partially working. Is that because of low voltage??

Can an additional 1inch block be added on and sandwiched in the rear where the spring block goes? I’m looking to get one more inch from the rear