My local salvage yard charges 20$ all day long for TCMs. I found one still attached. 2 years older than mine. So what. Right? Unplug the suspected bad module and plug in to your salvage box. Zip tie it to the harness and drive it. If it shifts, perfect. Mine did but gear indicator on the dash didn't work. So what. It tells me the shift solenoid pack is good and so is the rest of the transmission. I bought a new OEM from Rock Auto and I have a good test box.

I watched your 5 part series on this problem. The inductive pickups[Input output]Speed sensors. Input sensor you determined had rotten wires. They are simple 2 wire, Hall Effect sensors. They are magnetically triggered by parts rotation inside the transmission @ each revolution. I found your ohm test to be a waste of time. Since this sensor is a momentary switch, not a true inductor. Of course your multimeter set to ohms is going to jump all over the place! A fixed inductor like a choke, would show a steady ohm/resistance reading. A subwoofer in a car will be a fixed ohm value. Maybe 4 ohm for car audio and 8 ohm for house speakers. Or infinite, out of range on blown speaker. Heres one RIGHT way: Remove sensor to test. Attach clip or probe tip of a 5vdc test light to one pin of sensor. Attach a jumper wire to the other pin and then to negative supply terminal. Hold test light probe tip to positive terminal as you move a steel wrench towards, then away from the sensor tip. These are momentary switches. The test light bulb should flash on and off as wrench is moved to and away from tip of sensor. That means sensors is good. Load current through the sensor? 12vdc from car batt to a component designed for 1-5v? No. Use a 5vdc input source. Old cellphone charger would be fine. Splice an LED bulb in series on one lead of the chargers wires. You will have to delete codes in powertrain/ecu after testing these sensors then reinstall them in the trans. A604 41TE issue MIGHT be malfunction of the transmission control solenoid. Dirty and leaky 0-Rings inside the TCS. However, check the whole harness from the PCM to the TCS and the speed sensors. Like your 5th video showed, 1bad wire became an open circuit. Jumpy speedometer and crazy weirdness? Try disconnecting TCS and I/O connectors to clean with spray contact cleaner. Many digital gremlins are water, grease, dirt, grime. Low voltages in these from Bad grounds and/or a very low battery, give bad data, or none to the computers. If your alternators output is less than 12.7v or more than 14.3v, start there FIRST! You cannot diagnose computerized controls properly with an almost dead battery. Chrysler powertrain computer relearns drivers shift preferences. This may require 100+ miles of driving. The input and output sensors are pretty tough. A telltale of internal problems aside from the TCS is metal fuzzy hair all over the tip of the output sensor[will cause bad signal] and fuzzy metal hair sticking to the magnet in the tranny pan. The PCM will not relearn shifting point/speed UNTIL you cancel all related trouble codes. If not, repairs will seem to be no change. Disconnecting the negative battery cable will NOT reset a stored powertrain fault. Limp mode erase, requires an Obd II scantool. I prefer NEVER to puncture wires for a probe. My method is to disconnect the connectors at each end[wiring diagram]test light for continuity check. Then a good spray with contact cleaner. HEAT Shrink tube is dirt cheap. What if the Owner could not pay for new PCM harness? CUT, SPLICE, TAPE? More problems! And if PCM is corrupted Dodge tech still has to reflash it for $$$. Now for the bad. In summation, I spent a huge amount of my afternoon attempting to convey useful information to the tech in his five part tubes. Your thrashing of the inner plastic fender on this Caravan spoke volumes to me as to your lack of discipline. Finesse? Care? I dont know what else to tell you sir. I have been the "angry man" as you are, were, appear. Good luck, God bless.

Thanks for taking the time, it helps big time.

hi i have a 98 mercedes benz ml320 that feels like its in neutral no matter the gear any info will be much appreciated...i also removes the trans cooler lines going to the radiator and no fluid going through

why not plug them wires up first and see what might happen... save money for the customer

Sorry man, spent more time showing how to remove the tire and mud flap, plus can't really hear you.

So if you have more than 1 code it’s the computer that needs to be checked which is located under the drivers side.. can you drive it or should you not

Loose the music in your video. Can't hear you...