Thanks buddy very kind of you to say, definitely do it yourself it’s very easy diy job & a huge money saver. You know where I am if you need any advice

Thanks for watching! Appreciate your comment 🥸

Exactly buddy 👍 spot on How did the belt go on ? Did u have to remove the rear cam wheel & make sure the belt is not baggy towards the rear That’s what the bolts are for on the cam pulleys (take out any slack) Well done mate always a massive achievement doing it yourself 🫡

@@VanlifeHQ awesome, thanks a million. Yes took rear cam off to get belt on and it was still quite an effort.

Thanks dan much appreciate the feedback mate, hopefully a few people will get help from the videos I will continue making a few more on the Renault master hopefully saving a bit of money & passing on the tips. Some forums are indeed snobs to put it nicely lol & in my experience definitely if it’s not leaking keep that original seal (Diesel filter) there’s one inside to at top that can be a turd to seal

Hey Tom so the 3 bolts need to be loosened to take out the slack in the belt buddy or when you take out the locking pins holding the clamps in place one side of the belt will become a little baggie…. Loosening up the bolts don’t move the marks the cams are locked in place it’s literally just to take out the slack 👍 Make sure you finish with all 3 bolts in middle of the two upper cam pulleys TIP : take off the rear cam wheel clip into the belt then it will go on ! If you don’t it will be near impossible to get the belt on buddy Honestly it’s a easy job follow my video if u get stuck message me I’ll help as much as possible.

​@@VanlifeHQThanks very much. I will be in contact with you if I need any assistance when I am doing the belt.

Hello Dan how are you mate ? Sure I will find you a few links bud not a problem My van doing good thanks mate just looking into lithium batteries right now

@@VanlifeHQ sounds interesting are you looking into electrifying your van?

@@danashcroft961 already done mate has full solar fitted completely off grid, just have 2 120ah agm looking at 200ah lithium replacement.

ok no worries found one...that funnel shaped little do dad goes big side of the funnel down, then the spring and the little round washer shim thingy that fits nicely into the solenoid housing...

im a bosch injector expert now...lol

Take off the top back cam wheel & put it on with belt on mate, only way your do it successfully Give me a message if you still getting stuck bud 👍

@@VanlifeHQ Cheers mate, will give I a go in the morning, appreciate the advice 👍

Also mines a mk2 movano 2010 2.5 cdti but think it’s the same

Hey mate I’ll find a link to the gates is still available on eBay, torque settings I will drop a message here give me till tomorrow mate Really easy to do yourself mate just follow the video if you get stuck give me a shout

Ok thank you very much

@@ridley20 www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202802544256

The code is - K015573XS

Good morning, So the timing tool holds everything in place not needing marks. obviously the bottom one is important as the lower pin slides in on the top oil filter bolt holding the crank in place The tensioner sits on a small pin & tighten up at the top mark diagrams are easy found on google mate, When refitting the belt if you find it hard remove the back cam pulley locate the belt & fit with pulley on the belt ! Sometimes it’s the only way your get it on ! Hope Iv answered your questions & adequately have a good day

@@VanlifeHQ awesome, thanks very much

Good morning buddy there is a mark needs to be a the bottom for the oil filter housing bolt to lock the crank in place Get it in the ruff place (down) top bolt out of oil filter housing then you can wiggle the pulley to locate the locking rod.. This is the hardest frustrating bit 🤣

@@VanlifeHQ awesome, thanks. Wasn't expecting such a quick reply, top man 👊 Might well have another question or 5 over the course of the next day or so

Yeah no worries buddy if I can help I will I’m acting on here although not 1000s videos I really need to pull my finger out make some more 🤣

​@@VanlifeHQalright, struggling with mount + cover that you're wiggling out at 3.23 Is it just the 2 small (8mm) bolts on the cover part you remove?

@mrchopsaloty I believe from memory it’s 3 bolts mate one up top hidden behind the top mount

Hey bud, so basically if they did not do this when you tension the belt it could be loose on the left side So by loosening up the the top pulleys you take out the slack without moving the locked cams 🤓 Hope Iv explained it for you mate if not I will try better explain it when home

@@VanlifeHQ cheers mate it makes sense now. I'm doing the head gasket on mine and was wondering what the reason was. I've not locked the cams but I've marked them and will have them held in that position when the belt goes back on but now I'll loosen the pulleys thank you

@@c4r5on88 your welcome buddy if you get stuck give me a message

@@VanlifeHQ thank you so much :)

Good evening, the pistons have a good cut out at the top for the valves so depending on how fast the engine was running when it snapped you might get a way with it, how much is the van ? might be worth putting a cheaper belt on just to test it, generally if you can turn the 2 top cams freely your good to go mate

This is for locking the flywheel on the gearbox bud So on the video your see me unbolt the top bolt of the oil filter this is where you fit the pin 📍 Your need to turn the engine back & fourth to locate the pin completely in to lock in the lower crank : dose this make sense mate ? Hope Iv explained it ok 👍

@@VanlifeHQ No, I mean the cotterpin (length 10 mm, diameter 2 mm) that comes with the belt, tensioner and guide roller. I found it, it is lo locate the tensioner on the engine :)

Ah now I know what you mean sorry bud thought you meant in the locking tool So this is for the belt tensioner if you look on the engine your see the tiny pin, it’s a pain in the ass to get out & if I’m really honest it’s not necessary to change mate Iv done a lot & never needed to change it

To allow any stretch out & settles the belt in, it’s very important to do ! If not after a few turns your timing could change

Hey dan I will take a look & get back to you, from memory it sounds right how you have it let me take a look at mine

@@VanlifeHQ I sorted that, they were on backwards, but again laughably it still ran and both the connectors were identical. More weird and shit renault design...But totally and utterly gutted. finally got the whole thing rebuilt new glow plugs in everything battened down. took it for a shakedown, got about 50 m and it blew one of the glow plugs out of its housing. Took it to an engineers to have the old seized ones removed and they must have damaged the thread that much getting it out that it couldnt withstand the cylinder pressure when you rev the engine...what a fucker...so really what they should have done is caught that and put a helicoil in...Fucking Portuguese always a half fucking job with these cunts and then when you pull them up about it shoulder shrugging...

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/p6uPqa9-26qneYU.html for you DAN click private link mate

Cant even up load the data sheet to show you...

No honestly Euro car parts I brought mine first time & fitted perfect although not for the faint hearted to press out, I’ll look up the part number add it here I have one in the van ready for N/S lower & upper

Renault Hull are saying the arm is afteramarket and thats why nowt fits it...but it looks as old as everything else and the previous owners were that lazy that they'd never bother with owt that labour intensive, just bribe the MOT guy to pass it in Holland...

The engineer said he could weld the ill fitting one into the hole but thats not the way I roll. You could never trust it at 120 mph...and your hub all loose and wobbling about with the weight of the wheel added to it = Motorway disaster...

@@danashcroft961 even if it was aftermarket that wouldn’t explain the loss fitment, what’s the other side saying on that k marking ?

AS the ones that came out were so loose when i tried to put them back in they came out of the groove and cut themselves to pieces...

@@danashcroft961 good afternoon dan, there literally standard o rings mate, I brought the kit on eBay the o rings, copper washers, & plastic sleeves for £10, kit is for all 4 also the “new improved stud kit” because you can’t actually get the originals anymore however the new updated are definitely better,

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384806658190

@@VanlifeHQ Bought the crush washers from Bosch here, but they didn't have the O rings and when i contacted Bosch here all I got was the "We hereby state that we cannot give out any information.but what is stated here.":and then sent me a 404'd link. I told em to f*ck off...

@@VanlifeHQ but just so long as they arent anything super heat resistant or owt then yeah then any old O ring of the right size will do then...Did you use a revision kit for the studs holding the injectors on as I am finding them super difficult to torque as the torx bit keeps slipping out of the hole. May machine those into a bolt to get a socket on them...Shite design again. Had to make a special tool to open the oil drain plug, just ground down an Allan Key square and it fitted perfectly...

Hey Anthony I’m down in Thanet, unfortunately I do not really work on other people’s vehicles now but it easy to do if you follow my video & can help if you get stuck buddy

I will try between rain to have a look today for you to see if I can see a k marking on mine

and that should read not including parts, VAT and disposal costs of the belt and pulleys...

Hello Dan, yeah sorry about the “YT choice” of music spent all my money on the Gates timing kit 💰 maybe I’ll leave it out next video 🫡 The torque wrench’s : red is Teng 1492AGE black is helfords jobby I work in both nm/ft-lbs both depending on the weather 🤣 same gos for tape measures The gates kit comes with the metal tensioner Gates kit - K015573XS £80 ish Tensioner - T43117 (gates) I have another cam belt to do next week along with the front crank seal I’ll maybe do a short video on fitting the “special tool” in detail without the music 🥸 Thanks for your input mate good to hear another mechanics view & your most definitely right regarding the faffy ball ache pin location to lock the crank 😡🤬 I had one hand on the pin one on the front crank jiggle back/forwards the pin slipped in ! I felt like a wishbone being broken.

@@VanlifeHQ well I did mine today sans the special tools, as fuck renault...All I did was follow some wide head but cheapo russians plan and cut two slots 21mm wide and deep enough to fit over the camshafts, and placed them 13.7 cm apart and that holds both shafts in place, looked for timing marks on the pulley there was nowt to be seen. So I resorted to the old tried and trusted method banging a long screwdriver down the injector hole and when it tops out its TDC, then removed the crank position sensor and looked for the half mark and there it was, so that confirmed it... So looked in the john paul sartre workshop manual, as its as esoteric as fuck, minimum info and bouncing all over the place no logical order just loads of diagrams of the same thing over and over...It did not even tell you how to refit the pulley and tensioner, just assumed you'd done that, made no mention of the fuel pump cog timing marks and just banged on about them weird special tools and so I put the belt on without locking the crank as when youre putting the belt on the intermediate belt cog you're not moving anything so I didnt see the need. got the belt and pulley on but it also never told you which was the long bolt and which short and no instructions in the box so I had to put the long one in the pulley right first time but to be sure put it in the tensioner and it was too long, solved that.. so pulley on belt on, shafts locked correct timing mark in the window you can only see with a mirror and light and alls looking good, then put the tensioner on, tightened it to tightish as it explains then got me 6 allen key out to put it inbetween the U but no matter what I tried it went no where near it but the belt was still mega tight so in the end I just nipped it up and thought fuck it if I t dies at 120 kph on the Mway in France or Spain (I live in lisbon Portugal, but am originally from the city of Kingson upon Hull) at least it will be spectacular and next time I will get a van with a fucking Haynes manual with clear instructions and logical job order for a rebuild... but the belt was good and tight but the pin was in it, it anchors against and it engaged with that, but it would not go to the U for love nor money. but now perhaps the move is to now untighten the exhaust cam cog bolts and muscle it round to between the U but then surely you have slung it out of time to get the belt tension right or am I missing something??? totally baffled...

@@VanlifeHQ but I watched this characters full engine rebuild, another speed up merchant and an "I wont show you this cos its boring so well skip the important next step as this isnt a real "how to video" but just me filming myself working" merchant and I thought "its spannering mate. its not dancing on fucking Ice, of course its fucking boring" But my thought is why make a video if you're not going to show the full process to help someone less competent with it learn how to do it properly? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/pdSYpdmbntTNdmg.html some other chump told me his speeded up benny hill video was just for personal memories... So why does the whole world have to see it then?... I'd film what I do but I'd go viral as all i do is sing to cheer mesen up and shout and swear at the French and Renault alot even though I have many french friends.. But my point is he fell onto the full line timing mark pitfall that put his engine180 out and it still ran after a gobfull of easy start and didnt destroy itself...the G9U is fucking indestructable, as is the master in general, no better van when its fettled right... Good on gas and got some poke with a 2.5 and 6 gears... like a turbo charged wardrobe it is... car drivers in France were wondering what hit them when a white flash flew past at 160 with a full load of gear in it... banging...

Is it the tensioner point not lining up to the Centre u part ? After setting the belt over that mark (tight) you need to rotate the engine x2 then lock up the engine again loosen up the tensioner & the two pulley wheels at the top then retighten the tensioner to central of the U. when you turn the engine the tensioner mark will move tight loss tight loss allowing for crank, The two top wheels bolts when all tight need to be Centre, When at TDC the two top cam wheels can be out 180 still from memory the bigger cut outs face front ! If you were in uk mate I would have offered to jump on it with you.

amzn.eu/d/14mZIjr

Here’s one that’s similar to mine hope this helps have a good day

Do you think this would fit my 2010?

Is your engine :1.5, 1.9, 2.2, 2.5dci. (k9k, k9q, g9t, g9u) there all normally the same kits buddy so i would say yes 👍 but check your code if you get stuck I will find the kit for yours ok

Shocking really it costs enough theses days just to drive them without garages charges I used to have my own garage hopefully I can save money for a few people 🤞 thank you for watching & commenting 😬