Is this a must do? It's weird because I see some people saying you must add heat sink compound or dielectric grease but the instructions on the icm dont say anything about grease.

@@Blendswell that's because they want you to keep buying them

I just change one and greased the mount and it started smoking and when I drove it on acceleration it bog down and cut off like the fuel pump failed. I had to re crank it and pull back in the driveway and put it in park it ran very smooth until I hit the acceleration

Did it work?

Did it work?

IT COIULD BE IM ASSUMING YOU PUT NEW WIRES ON AS WELL? ALSO IF YOU HAVE ACCESS TO A SCAN TOOL YOU SHOULD DO A CRANKSHAFT POSITION LEARN IF IT IS RUNNING GOOD.

Saludos! ya lo reparaste? qué fue?

No te sale ningún código amigo

@@sergiodeleon860 Era el sensor del Cigueñal

If the crank signal is not being sent to pcm then the pcm would have no reason for the injectors to fire So im a way yes but diagnostic steps should be done to see if the pcm sees crank signal

when you swapped the coils did it start to miss on another plug?? that will show you which coil is bad when it does that. also when you remove coil pack really clean the base where it will sit good and shiny and use some dielectric grease before you lay down the new coil pack if you change one out .

@@barneyrice8502 Yep swapped & no fire off the bad coil 1st time around while also a bad ICM.......2nd ICM all coils were still good when played the swap game & got a new ICM then good to go......doing some research I'm looking if I've had some overcharging issues off alternator possibly. This stuff never happens in nicer weather it's always winter it seems......

Misfire code for specific cylinder?

ryan graves so it runs great now?

Holy shit, sounds like you should have just junked the car dude. 3800 Series II is bullet proof, but not when someone abuses the hell out of it.

do not for get your fuel filter as they need to be changed every 10,000 to 15,000 miles . they filter particles as small as 5 microns and they do clog up and if not changed they will burn out your fuel filter in time !!!

it should still crank fine just not start ! usually when the module is going bad it will start to miss before it goes totally out . also replace fuel filter as this will make your fuel pump work overtime and eventually burn it out . these things filter particles down to 5 Microns and need to be replaced every 10.00 to 15,000 miles to help your fuel pump last a long time ..

Not a no crank , but no start condition

Having same problem with my 02 Grand Prix no start no click changed starter and alternator

Did it make noise trying 2 start I changed starter and alternator all I hear is a lil humming no click

Im having the same problem

@@paulabrahamson4725 I had a bad ground car started turning back over but found out I got a bad ignition module

Lot of people say that but never has an issue

yes those are gaskets to keep the terminals out of elements and free of corrosion

@@JoeTheAutoGuy Thanks, Joe. This is a 2004 Grand Prix 3.8 A few days ago, I replaced only the 5/2 coil pack and the #2 plug, as that's all I had time for. Once installed, the car seemed to run well and didn't seem to be misfiring. I took it for a ride around the block. The check engine turned off on it's own and it seemed to be running much better. Some dummy cut me off and I had to accelerate to avoid a crash. In so doing, by punching it, the car responded great initially, but then the engine light came back on steady and the acceleration is very sluggish at most times. I continued my drive and went to AutoZone to clear the code. I got it cleared, but it came back on within blocks of leaving. I'm just wondering what's going on. I focused on the #2 plug and the 5/2 coil pack for replacement because the initial scan indicated #2 misfire AND because I could visually see that same coil pack leaking an arc. I'm wondering if my continued problems could be having the remaining old plugs still in place, plus the fact that the single plug I replaced is a new iridium plug, while the old plugs are standard. Sorry this is so long. Do you have any thoughts?

@@PureBlood42 I would replace all of the wires and plugs , but that is me . they do need to be tuned up after so many thousand miles . check your book for exact number of miles . i do mine regularly after so many thousand miles and it never misses a beat. in the process of changing my fuel filter now because of a slight miss it has going on and they need to be changed every 10,000 to 15,00 miles for best fuel pump life ..

@barney rice ~ Thank you! I did end up replacing all plugs and plug wires and the car ran like a top. Months later, a crackhead T-Boned me by hanging an unexpected U-turn. He totaled my Grand Prix and fled the scene. Cops found his disabled Escalade. He had no insurance or license. I'm in a 2001 Grand Marquis now. Lol.

Does it shut off like it is just dead or does it chug and then shut off

Mine chugs and then shuts off I have 08 and it will drive fine untill engine has been running for a bit then all of a sudden the rpm Guage goes all whacky and it like it fighting to accelerate and if I give gas it will just die in the middle of the road or traffic, I changed the MAF aswell it didn't change a dam thing I cleaned the throttle body it ran smoother for a tad longer and now I'm right back to square 1 it stalls when driving for a bit , do you think it's cause I'm not getting enough voltage from the icm plz help if u can

Nope not on this one

Multiple reasons that could be occurring, any dtcs recorded

@@JoeTheAutoGuy I haven't trying using a engine code reader yet to learn what it would say on what going with it

it would roof idle all the time .

Still going strong to this day to

@@JoeTheAutoGuy.... Hello, Joe.... thatnk you for the reply. I'm not sure exactly when you changed that ICM, out... but apparently, it does not matter whether or not "you" (re:anyone) use any or No paste or grease in between the base of the ICM and it's mounting pad/heat sink. What say, you? I just changed the ICM on my wife's 02 Buick, and I "straight edged" the mounting pad before putting it all back together... was not "flat" with a center high spot, almost the length of the pad, as well as several other spots. I inverted the mounting pad onto my larger belt sander machine with and initial 60 grit belt and removed just enough material to where the belt was just beginning to touch the low spots, then switched to a 120 grit briefly then down to a 220 grit.... now had a perfectly flat surface to mount the ICM on to. I put a thin film of grease on the pad, then set the ICM on it, and then "hand pressed" it against the pad, then removed it... had a perfect, even contact print from end to end and from side to side. I then cleaned it all up and mounted it dry, with the exception of some Permatex dialectric grease around the base of the coil pack's. I was thinking of putting shims at the ICM mounting points to create air space & airflow between the ICM and the mount... but didn't. I did, however... polish down and color buffed the mounting pad after I sanded it flat, on my 3hp pedestal metal buffing machine (Baldor), to remove any and all surface imperfections to a near mirror finish.... running great so far, with no issues.

​@@Romans--bo7brhow would you shim it?

@@danielbrown6851.... Hello Daniel, thanks for the reply. "Shim it"..???? Not sure of your question.. could you explain the question a bit better? Thanks.

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