Dude, you are hands down the the easiest instructor I have ever listened to. Thank you so much for making this process so easy to follow along with. Great job!!!

My freestyle computer showed issues with the egr valve, with the throttle body and I believe the accelerator pedal. I took it to a mechanic who wanted 1700 to fix it. After watching your video I bought the egr Valve (100), the throttle body (200), and the pedal! (80), changed and reset the throttle body myself and paid a mechanic 230 to change the other parts. Saved over 1,000. Thank you

Outstanding!!! A+ Ford 500 throttle issue and replacement/ installation video. I’m having the same problem on my 500, started exactly yesterday. You are an asset to KZfaq great detail and explanation on how it’s done. Thanks 🙏

What a great and informative video, just took care of my mother in law’s car. What I appreciate the most was the harness diagnostics!! Love and Respect!

What a GREAT VIDEO!! Very well explained and easy to follow. Thank you KINDLY!! I worked A LOT on old 60's, 70's and early 80's V-8's and this is a million miles from that. The computer has to "learn" and "forget"!! Man!! Gone are the days of sitting on the wheel well and adjusting or changing a 4 barrel carb or doing a tune up. I stopped doing work in the mid 80's and by the time I wanted to get going again the whole world of motors changed on me. Emissions, sensors and computers. Finally I just told myself IT'S STILL A MOTOR... just different. Because of videos like yours I'm back to doing much of my own work again. I'd have never gotten to this point without guys like you a sharing what you know. So just know it's REALLY appreciated!! You're helping people like me do their own work and saving us a lot of money. New Sub for sure and a BIG thumbs up. I'll watch your videos just for the heck of it. I've got a lot of catching up to do!!

Check operation first, use a screwdriver, or risk a finger (TYVM for that little tidbit) to check if the TB is seized or sticking. Have a friend step on the gas with the key on, engine OFF and watch TB, should fully cycle. If not suspect wiring or pedal sensor and check wiring/voltage as he and others have described. My 06 500 TB made a horrible grinding noise and didn't move at all. Problem solved. You could've skipped the whole cleaning procedure for your customer, but that's cool, it was very informative. The extra step in DCing the wiring harness saved me, as well as the short/discharge/relearn procedure. TYVM again! Great video!

Another common problem is the wiring harness that rests on the low pressure A.C line. Has a tendency to wear through. Mine was idling rough at a stop and the check engine light came on. Pulled up the harness and sure enough it was worn through. Repaired the wires and running great now. THANKS. I've wanted to clean mine anyway!! Your a PRO!!

Awesome video and the way you explained everything is by far the best I’ve seen in a long time. Was nervous about replacing the throttle body on my five hundred but not now. Thank you so much

Excellent video, thank you for taking the time to put this together.

I just went through this with my 500 , and I love her so of course I got it fixed. I looked up the video to see how to properly reset it because even after getting it replaced , the part where the wrench came on and there was no acceleration happened again but just for a second or so, I turned it off, started it back up , and it was ok, so I’m praying it was just resetting. Hopefully someone in here knows lol. But u are a wonderful teacher !

Fantastic cleaning tutorial to save throttle bodies. Cool 10 cent tip: before buying new throttle body if limp home problem still occuring, at 23:16 also remove negative cable of battery and touch the positive cable of battery with a jumper wire for 5 minutes to discharge the capacitors, clearing the memory and trigger the proper relearn procedure. This will save most throttle body replacements. Seems like this is already a second throttle body as the coolant delete upgrade was done. All new 3.0 V6 came with the coolant line in & out version that was a bad design.

Very helpful and informative video. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks so much for this video. You saved me hundreds of dollars.

thank you so much for this video. it teach me a lot about the throttle body system. your video was a great help. god bless you and your family.

Dude you rock bro. My vehicle now runs. Had exact same issue

Thank you for the guide! This helped me fix my issue.

I like how you added that blue throttle body gasket definitely added five horsepower to that engine LOL but on a serious note don't even have a problem with my throttle body just started watching this video and you did such a good job explaining everything just decided to keep watching in case I end up having a problem so good for you man

Man thank you so much for this ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ star video very helpful and appreciated

Thanks DIY Auto Homeschool!!Just changed my this morning now my car is running great.Many thanks from West Virginia

This weekend I'm swapping my dad throttle body and this really helped!

All around excellent video 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

Thank You. Very educational video!

I came across this video after having my 2005 ford freestyle limited with 231,590 miles keep going into failsafe mode. I had this happen once before about 100k mikes ago and I went to the salvage yard and got a throttle body, because mine has the coolant hoses on them abd all the ones that are sold new is like the one you replaced and didnt have coolant going through them. But I also got some of the throttle position sensors and the inside motors out of the ones at the salvage yard that was like the one you replaced. I tried just replacing it and not clear the memory on the PCM, or letting it idle at all to do any sort of relearn and after 5 minutes of driving it went back into safe mode but was still allowing me to drive, just would eat gas, jerk hard when I let off the gas, and didn't accelerate good at all. So I checked the wiring harness as you showed. All was good. And then I discharged the capacitors as you showed and am in the middle of the relearn procedure now. But the wrench light and check engine light are both off and its idling perfect. But I just wantes to say thank you for being so thorough with this video. I'll definitely subscribe to the channel and watch many more of your videos. Thanks again!

It worked man you helped a lot thank you

What an excellent video!!

This was great info. This has happened to me several times and was not able to fix it. I changed the fuel sensor thinking it was that, then it worked after resetting the codes, but now it kind of idles erratic, specially when waiting on red lights.

Very helpful thank you, Over And Out!

GREAT VIDEO BRO!! THANKS!!

Awesome video man

very informative info ty

Couldn't forcing a relearn after the cleaning fixed it as well? I have a freestyle that just developed the same symptoms and was curious on that

These cars have a design flaw in the wiring harness where it presses on the low pressure A.C line. After a while the vibrations wear through the harness and wire insulation. It's an easy fix if you see that. Just pull the harness up and repair the wire insulation and re-wrap with friction tape. After that leave the harness up off the A.C line. It will be easier if you remove the metal brace that runs across the back of the engine compartment but that's easy enough. You probably know this already but I'm leaving it for comment readers who might have the same problem. I would have NEVER found it without seeing the videoI saw. I'll drop the link below. My "check engine" light came on and initially I thought Gas cap. That was wishful thinking. I checked the bottom of the harness where it was pressing against the A.C line and sure enough it was worn through. My 2005 Ford 500 Limited was maintained perfectly and has 225k miles....mostly highway. I'm thinking about doing the throttle body next. Still idling a little rough at a stop in drive. It stops when I put it in neutral though. I'd rather just clean it so I KNOW it won't be a problem down the road. It's not that bad but still I know it's not right. Thanks for the help. Really appreciated man!! BTW.... you look just like the bumblebee guy. I saw a video of him removing a bumblebee hive and getting stung a LOT. Funny as hell. He had a great sense of humor though. I thought for sure you were him when I clicked on this. Here is the link to the video I found. A Ford GENIUS and he saves people A TON of money. fordtechmakuloco kzfaq.info/get/bejne/f9h0f5tilampeWg.html

Thank you so much for this video. Just a quick question, can i do the battery reset after cleaning the old throttle body since i do not have a new one yet? is that advisable?

Thank you so much for this video. It was very informative, and you were also funny.

Would regular preventative maintenance have stopped this problem?

I have a Ford fusion 06 that just cuts off after it runs about 30 min . But doesn't idle bad ?

I got 06 fordfreestyle. It got the rachet on and the engine on. N when i drive the rpm go all the way to 3 n 4. But when it hit the 4 it stumble n can't over the 4. And i can only go to 25 to 40miles. And sometime when im at the red light is take a while to accelerate. I took it to the shop they told me tranmission no good. Any one got ideas??

Thanks for the helpful video. I purchased a replacement throttle body off eBay, but unfortunately it didnt have the coolant inlet that my 2005 model does. Plan B. I used Carb Cleaner to clean my used throttle body. It worked and I again have smooth, dependable acceleration. :-)

Very well done video. Is there any maintenance that could be done that would have prevented this from happening ? Cleaning it out regularly ? Thank you

It helped a lot I appreciate you

Hello. I did exactly what you said. I heard a noise when i turned the key on, when it was "proofing out" think i heard the throttle doing something. I then pushed, slowly slowly on the gas pedal like you said, and i heard a noise again, this noise sounded like a clicking noise from the throttle. Counted a few secs. Let off slow. Turned it off. And started it. I let it sit, idle, for 20 minutes. It sounded good. Then drove it. Im curious why you have to push the pedal to the floor? Can you please explain. What was the clicking noise? Is that bad? Thanks

nicely explained

You was very educational on this video

What size attachment did you use to remove the bolts?

What if you got the new throttle body and gasket , and you did the poor man’s reset. And then when it went to relearn it started running rough on low rpm idle and then died. Do I need to do the reset again or just restart the vehicle?

Hi, I'm just seeing this video 3 years later. At minute 38:30 I have a question. On pin 'sensor reference' and pin 'sensor return' I have 0 volts on both.... Is roughly 5v always coming from one of those? Thx!!

My ford five hundred keeps shutting off battery light comes on I releases alternator replaced battery wjen my car shuts off to.fix it I unplug terminals and plug them back in any fix or ideas?

Well done

Did you have the car on to do the memory dump

I'm having an issue where I get code P0563 05 Ford 500, the car will run and then charging system light and message appear and the lights and cluster and radio go out for a couple seconds but will still accelerate sometimes, and comes back on a few seconds later. I've replaced alternator 3 times this last time I made sure it was a brand new alternator not remanufactured. And I've checked all the fuses. The idle is quite irradict and I'm just lost not sure how to even begin diagnosis my dad has tested a ton of things as well and were both baffled. Any suggestions? Really hope u see this.

Does this capacitor discharge method work in a similar fashion with most modern day vehicle computers?

Hey I have a question. I have a ford five hundred 2005, and when I put my AC on my car jerks and shakes. I’m not able to drive with it on. Idk what to do.

I figured around 4.80-4.85, in that range, seems about right. Do you remember the automatic transmission commercial from year's back" let me try boss, I always wanted to work on a automatic transmission".

My 5oo bat. Keep runing down when Iwhen put key in the rate comes on

Hello, I had a problem with the car losing power, having to pull off and restart it, it started happening more frequently so I bought a new throttle body (not Motorcraft), and changed it my self. I followed all your instructions but now the wrench light does not go off and after a bit the check engine light comes back on. I followed your instructions step by step, to the t. What did I do wrong?

My 05 Ford five hundred did the same thing Wednesday and i have to replace the throttle body and replace the gas pedal to

Did it go into fail safe mode?

great ! video

i tested the 2 center wires and got no response. zero volts and touched wire and no fluctuation. whats wrong? i have a 2005 ford freestyle 3.0

My throttle body has hose connecting to it for the coolant lines. What do I do now? Please help.

Yo. the sped up brushing was oddly satisfying

So you don't have to replace it because my Ford 500 the check engine light was coming on and AutoZone machine said that throttle body so if you clean it it's good to go

I'm did the exact same thing? I changed the throttle body and the gas pedal and it's still dying when put in drive and u take off please help??

I have a ford 500 2005 my car seems to run good but sometimes it stalls when the AC is running. I had to turn it off because it said failure and check engine. Would you know what the problem is? I just bought it about 3 months ago.

If you are just cleaning your throttle body do you have to go through the computer relearning process. Or is it just on brand new throttle body change out. Your videos are are the best.

My 500 would not start no wrench or engen light. Relearned it then it started but would not rev over 3000, so im on way to bone yard for used. Cant afford 625 dollers at dealler .To be continued. Dec 6 2020. All advise Taken.

Is your key on when you dump the codes and memory?

Thank you for making this video bro, F!@# ive been having a hell of a time with this

Where did you get the throttle body from because I had the same issue with the same car

What you know about Blacklist

I am the new owner of a 2006 Freestyle that I bought from a private party. When I picked it up all was fine but, as I drove home on the freeway, I suddenly had a loss of power. The engine didn`t shut down, just the revs wouldn`t go up enough, while the wrench and little engine lights came on. I pulled to the shoulder and tried to move again but couldn`t. After a couple of minutes trying to decide what to do, who to call, I turned the engine off and was just there, frustrated. Then I turned the engine on again and not only the wrench light was gone as the engine was running normally again. The "oil 0%" message was on, so I took it to change the oil butb the message did not disappear, no matter what I did with the reset, setup, etc. buttons. I am not sure what to do about that yet. In any event, at the oil change place, they ran the computer diagnostic and it gave us 3 codes: P 2111, P 2104 and P 0401. At home I checked and it said that P 2111 was "throttle actuator stuck open". P 2104 is "System forced throttle back to idle, and P 0401 Says that "insufficient EGR flow". I am no mechanic, but quite curious and seeing your video showed me that I can handle the throttle body issue. However, could you please give me some orientation about what to do with the message center? Thank you for helping.

Can you make more videos On the five hundred?

I HAVE A 2007 FORD Five Hundred AND MY CAR JUST STARTED AND THEN CUT OFF CAN U HELP

I called Napa parts and they couldn't even get them. What is up with that has any body run into that

Maybe if you supported your local.parts store for more then just a gasket they could have better inventory.

Are the online throttle bodies ok, or should I pay the $672 Ford price? I have an 06 Freestyle.

"If I'm gonna clean this.....I want it clean"!! Most DEFINITELY!!

One cuestiom is normal 12 volt on all the throrttle body cables whit key off

Hi need help

Next time you change anything check brakes and suspension first, sensors cause the car to not start due to wearing. Default sensors shut the car down and that is the wrench signal which means there's something wrong with the car. Check those brakes first.

Well, you got one thing right you did clear the codes, the correct way, but by you, stepping on the pedal and slowly releasing it, you did not do a thing nothing all you had to do was started up and just let it idle. It will teach itself and it’s not going to take 15 minutes it’s gonna take longer you’re gonna have to have at least three drive cycles on it for the misfire counter to sit in your fuel trims to start the balance out that hot call does not work. You got to go in with a scanner and reset your cam module because you’re going to have a code in the system that the battery was disconnected. it’s a collect Joe blow off the street. He doesn’t do it for living you could do all that and once somebody else gets in it that car is good just to their driving habits and the next person it gets in it it’s going to adjust to their driving habits so don’t listen to this guy. He doesn’t know what he’s talking about.

Anybody in the Southwest Ohio area that knows how to do this DIY work please let me know will pay

Lost power.. Its normally in these years of 500's its in the wiring harness that goes to the crank shaft sensor it will melt and show the wires to were water will get on it and make it do this as well as turning the wheel and after the cars been running to were it gets to that temp it melts it more and makes it shut off like its not getting gas and then dieing. If you follow the wires from the crank shaft sensor up through the motor it will have the wires melted. If it has thrown up a throttle sensor or coil pack its a waste of money in my eyes to fix. They didn't protect the main wires that are important or they just done this to make There money back in the near future

What City of KS are you in?

You shouldn't need to REPLACE the throttle body on a Five Hundred unless you haven't run an air filter. A good healthy spray of Berryman B-12 to clean the TB every 30,000-50,000 miles SHOULD be enough if you buy good gasoline, and stay away from fuel with ethanol in it. If you try to "cheap-out" and run E-15 fuel, you'll have BIG PROBLEMS!!! A can of liquid Berryman B-12 or Seafoam in the tank every 25,000 miles is also cheap fuel system cleaning, including the in-tank fuel filter "sock". Do Berryman in the tank and use 100% gasoline, and it's no sweat to get 22 MPG in "grocery getter" duty with the 6 speed Aisin transaxle and 32+ MPG at 75 MPH highway (my 900 mile trip-BP 89 octane gave me 33.8 and Shell 87 "Platinum" gave me 35.1 @ 70 and 75 MPH cruise all the way Tulsa to Houston and back.) The Taurus/Sable/500/Montegos with the 3.0L are some of the BEST cars made this Century by Detroit. I only wish my 500 had a "moonroof" and was designed to carry 5 FAT (over 170 lb.) people and some luggage.

At that point just buy a new throttle body if it's that dirty and built up with carbon

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