Big facts. My driveway is all gravel so I’m out here laying on a blanket trying my hardest to break these mf nuts loose. Would be awesome to invest in a lift.

@@theunknownassailant4966 they are fantastic well worth it if you can afford it

Is it even possible?

Yeah i was thinking the same thing. That is what im doing right now an it ant nowhere near this easy at all.

🤣🤣🤣

Exactly, that's my next few days. Going to bake a cradle for motorcycle jack....

@@melvinmariott8609 I’ve made it to the point where I have to remove the starter and it’s been pretty easy so far. Fingers crossed!

That’s great man. I’m glad it helped.

I hope it goes smooth for you. Thanks for watching.

that's slicker n shit isn't it? 4 bolts and bob's your uncle.....

He didn’t edit the subtitles KZfaq shows whatever they think he said sometimes it’s way off

You got this. If you run into any problems. Email me or message me. I’ll try to walk you through it.

@@ltstransmissionhowto5158 Thanks, I managed to get the transmission out, starter top bolt took three days of frustrations. Found that the 6" extension was not quite long enough, cut and welded a one inch peice in.. perfect... then a buddy of mine said to use the 6" 3/8 extension and a 3/8-1/4 adapter with the 1/4 13mm socket, lenght would be perfect. I am now in process of reinstallation of newer transmission. I have it lined up and 2 torque converter bolts in. Your video was excellnet and very informatiove.. Now I got to finnd torque for housing bolts. Thanks,,,, Rick in Newfoundland

Everything should be pretty close to the same.

Get it Brother

@@ltstransmissionhowto5158 can I use a 4×4 f 150 2005 in a 2 wheel drive f 150 2005

The output shaft is different length. You would have to take the transmission apart to change it. It’s the last part to come out of the case

Thanks man. Will do.

I have one in the shop now. I’ll try to get a video this week

Any update on the install video? Getting ready to do my 07' 4r75e

It’s a perishable skill. It takes a little bit to get back into it.

@@ltstransmissionhowto5158 man you had some good tips like go through the bottom of the trans to spin the flywheel. Kinda hard but I was able to make it work.

Great. Thanks for watching

Yeah the late 90’s model you have to take the exhaust out. The starter bolts are never fun. The top one sucks. I’ll work on a video for 4r100 next time I get one in.

Hey man, that’s great. I’m glad it helped.

@@ltstransmissionhowto5158 how to tell what what transmission i have??, a own a Ford f150 2004 4x4 4.6

There’s a big difference in the transmissions that could be in there. Yours is more than likely the 4r70. It could possibly have a 4r100. The 4r100 is about twice the size. Pan on a 4r100 is long and more rectangle and odd shaped at the back end. The 4r70 is more of a square pan.

@@ltstransmissionhowto5158 is there any tag that can tell exactly what a had? I need to order a rebuild kit a i need the exact model

Sticker on door look for tr u is r70 e is 100

Awesome. Thanks for watching

That’s awesome.

Thanks

I'm real lazy and I'm way ahead of where I thought I would have been. In only three hours and its on the ground

By the way working on the ground and no power tools. Still proud of myself

That’s awesome man.

I’m not sure. Look at everything and try to measure how far you can slide it back before it hits. It would save time. But I would hate to get everything loose and not have enough room.

@@ltstransmissionhowto5158 thank you, I have a tape measure in hand.

Make sure your converter is all the way back in the pump. When you’re bolting you’re the the engine take your time to make sure your studs on your converter are lining up in the holes on the flex plate. They will stick through a little when bolted up. Then you will need to pry it back flush with the flex plate. Just take your time.

Probably leave the converter bolted up. When you unbolt the transmission the converter will stay connected and slide out of the transmission. I’m not sure how to get the converter off after that.

@@ltstransmissionhowto5158 So how much does it cost to replace a Transmission ?

@@kevinkelly9303 Depends on what path you choose. I was fortunate and found a junkyard one with just under 100,000 miles for about $650. I probably spent an additional $300 on gaskets, filters and fluids. I was quoted $2550 for the complete removal, rebuild, and installation, with trans cooler flush from a reputable local shop. I was also quoted $5500 from another shop for the removal and installation of a Jasper Transmission.

I like boomhauer

You’re just a boy, you ought not talk like that.

I play cards with JD Shellnut, Chief of Police, the laws on my side. -Doyle Hargraves. I can do this all day.

How far you totin that warsh ?

Can you spin the flex plate with a screw driver or a pry bar?

It’s not that bad.

@@ltstransmissionhowto5158 question for you. Just bought 04' and previous owner switched trans and theres couple of switches not connected etc. How do I know which trans to get so I get the original one? There are 2 ID#s that fall under 4.6L f150 4x4 heritage

As long as it’s the same year everything should plug in. You have your plug in for the internal wiring harness and your two speed sensors. Then the neutral safety

I did mine in the driveway on ramps. It wasn’t bad

If it’s 4x4 look at how much room is between the exhaust and transfer case. That is probably what will hit first when sliding it back

I’ve been slacking. I’ll get an install video up soon. Probably just search it on the internet to get the torque specs. I’ll find the best place to get them and site it in the next video

Sounds like you have clutches or a band burnt. Probably gonna need replace. I don’t believe solenoids will help.

It will slide out. You will probably have to rock the transmission around a little and it should break free and slide out of the transmission

I usually take a screwdriver or pry bar and go through the inspection hole and move it that way. They can be a pain. You can also put a socket on the harmonic balancer and turn it that way

Starter going bad and not completely disengaging maybe ?

Just goes to the vent tube at the back of the case. It doesn’t connect to anything on the other end. Just runs up and by the bell housing and back down

If it’s the 6R80 some of the them have an internal computer that has to be flashed but some just have a lead frame that doesn’t. I’m not real sure on which ones do and don’t. There are several years that have a recall on the transmission. They had a problem with the lead frame that keeps showing speed sensors bad and burn up the transmission. I would check and double check on a recall

Just try to let the transmission down as low as you can and use a long extension and a universal socket if you have one. You might be able to get a straight socket up there. It’s just a tight spot to get to.

I usually hold it with a pry bar if needed

The two longest ones go where the dial pins are.

It’s a pain. If you find the right length extension and a universal socket it’s helps. You just gotta move it around until you get it on the bolt. That’s the worst part of those.

Check to make sure the mount nuts and bolts are tight.

It’s pretty different. I’ve not had that many of them and haven’t made a video of those yet. But the concept of the same. Remove drive shafts Cross member Unplug everything. Converter bolts Transfer case Bell housing. I don’t remember off the top of my head if the exhaust has to be removed. I’m thinking it does. The main wiring harness plug is the exact same as the Chevrolet 6L80. You can skip through the video I have for it and find the part where I unplug it to see how you do that without having breaking it.

I like Boomhauer. I will take that as a compliment. Thank you.

Lt’s Transmission How To ‘twas intended as such

I don’t think it will stretch enough without removing the lines. You can try. It might work out.

@@ltstransmissionhowto5158 thanks for the reply I agree maybe disconnect the lines at least. I will report back after I try it.

You don’t have to. The only reason I would if I just replacing the front seal is to keep fluid from pouring from the line fittings and dipstick hole while I had it out. Also when you get yours out try to look at the pump bushing and feel the hub on the converter. Just to make sure it’s not bad too along with the seal.

@@ltstransmissionhowto5158 Thanks for the advice! She’s almost completely out. Your video definitely has been a big help. I’ve never removed a transmission, so the step by step is amazing.

Yeah. On the earlier ones you will probably have to drop the exhaust or cut it. There’s more stuff in the way on those.

I am new to this my question is in the other comments

It will come out without removing exhaust. Just have to bring it down at an angle.

I would look at e fluid see if it’s dark. Make sure none of the wiring is pinched or pulled out. The next thing would be to drop the pan. Take a look at it.

I don’t think I understand the question

Yes. Just do the opposite. When you’re getting it lined up with the engine. Make sure the studs on your converter or lined up with the holes in the flex plate. If you bolt the transmission up without having the converter studs in the hole it could damage the pump.

If you engine won’t rev up that’s going to be something with the engine. I’d start with checking fuses, having it scanned, and look maybe at a throttle position sensor. If it revs up and just won’t move sensor or solenoids won’t help it. You can unplug everything in the transmission on these and they will still pull.

@@ltstransmissionhowto5158 thanks.. i guess must be engine.. It does reverse but no power the scan give me 5 transmissin sensors.. solenoids.