Thanks for the video it was very well done and a well informed segment, I'd like to add my two cents to help get this job done even easier what I did at the 11:40 to remove that pesky bolt because of the engine what I did was remove the lower engine mount and I swung the engine forward a couple of inches and I wedged a 2x4 between the transmission and the frame just enough to wear the pesky bolt came right out easily, I have a short video on just that alone concerning the traction arm, thanks again

U are very humble. I'm a senior who has some schooling under my belt & I'm impressed! I'm already subscribed. I'm learning from YOU! I'm an anti-seize guy, I need to GET some lock tite! Wished u could say where/how much parts are u use in your jobs. I know its free advertising.😒 Your alot like me, if it saves me money, I will tackle it. Unfortunately, I live in the northeast & rust makes our jobs even harder. Six point wrenches/sockets/PB Baster help us. DO U REALIZE HOW MUCH MONEY U ARE SAVING ON THESE JOBS?? Good for YOU!! Your Prius looks in great shape. I will continue to watch you, youre a great teacher!! I miss old car manuals!! Not enough info/add on parts FOR PRII.

Great vid

Good video as always. I followed your halogen change from HID and that went well on mine. Amazing how cost effective that change is when picking from some yards that don't charge much at all for bulbs or connectors. Able to test bulbs out now as well, though more visual and not like with a light meter or camera intensity setup yet if needed. Looking like my drivers side lower control arm is ready to go. Wondering what your thoughts are with changing out the bad bushing? Reads on priuschat a few have banged out and pressed or tapped in new bushings. What I found for torque specs looks like for the two bolts that hold the control arm, 101 and 66 for the bearing per 135660_SP_-_Suspension.pdf. For the gen 3 the control arm bolts read like 172 ft/lbs which seems really high per 199997_2010_Toyota_Prius_Repair_Manual_-_Front_Stabilizer_Arm.pdf

My 2010 Prius torque spec is 172 ft lb for the two lower control arm, ball joint is 66

Thank you.

Hello there. Thanks for putting this on the internet as a resource! I had trouble getting the bolt to thread through the front bushing properly on the driver's side. I don't know if this means there's a defect in the arm or I just haven't wiggled it into the right position. Do you have any recommendations on how to get this bolt to thread properly in captive nut in the back? It seems getting it into place is a delicate affair on my car.

Thank u so much for sharing your knowledge. I have a question I hope u can answer. The dealership claims I need to change both front and lower control arms and my Prius only has 77k mileage. They gave me $4,480 worth of recommendations right after my warranty expired so I am suspicious. Do u have an opinion?

I have same 2005 Toyota Prius

Hi what’s your suggestion on a aftermarket cv drive shaft ?

Great can you please give me the link

How did you take off the motor mounts ? I wasn't able see it

Thanks for the walkthrough, do you need an alignment after this?

Hello. One day I happened to find my self hitting a curb in my 2005 Toyota Prius. I somehow didn't damage any part of the wheel or tire at all, but I did notice that the car likes to over steer when I steer too far left and right rather than returning to center. I checked the damage and I noticed that the passenger side lower control arm and ball joint were very bent. I didn't notice any leaks of any fluid or any other bent parts. Is there anything else that i should check for that could be causing this. These are the only symptoms that I can find right now. Im too scared to drive it faster to listen for noise.

How are these holding up because I have some trq and I'm hesitant to use them?

Hey, Do you have any updates on these parts? Do you recommend them? Any downsides? Thanks

Did it hold up ok?