Yes, good advice. I did take one apart and was lucky to get her back together with help from my daughters little fingers.. thx.

Would these freezing up make for a situation where it only shifts into 4 low but not 4 hi?

Shedding new light. Thx

Your welcome, I didn't either in the beginning...

Nice!

Glad it helped

Thank you!

Yw

Tricky, not sure about this. They talk about the position switches. If they are not happy then it won't allow things to move. I'm thinking you should be able to engage by hand some how. I'm thinking you will need some vehicle or shaft movement to get things to mesh. I don't want to suggest dangerous experiments unless you know how to keep it super safe. Me personally.. i would be on perfectly flat concrete and I would safety chuck the tires to limit travel. Then I would get help and see if I could engage manually with some movement of the truck back and fourth. I think this could be done with it NOT running and in neutral and with simply pushing it forward and back. Key on to make motors run.. body positioned where it's impossible to be run over even if a ghost starts the truck... it's possible a bit of movement may allow gears to mesh and engagement or disengagement to occur, be safe.

I had this exact same issue. My 03 sequoia got stuck in 4WD locked diff. Center diff light flashing. I tested both transfer case postion switches and found the front one to be bad. After replacing it I disconnected the battery for about 15 minutes and then reconnected it. I started it and the blinking light went away. I would start with the position switches if you’re having similar issues. The part was $61 with tax.

Glad they helped. Not sure, try using it everyday for a few days for a few seconds. Might just be the sensors but I imagine something is making the sensor trigger. Could be excessive grease, a short in the contacts. Are you sure its fully engaging? Do the front wheels spin on mud and hook up? Go all the way into low too. good luck

What was ur fix

if you want to replace the actuator you have to buy it with the shaft. if you want to replace the shaft as well you need to pull the transfer case

It's an expensive fishing expidition.. I'm not sure replacing it was the first move. I would get a trusted garage with scanning equipment to try and narrow it down. It's usually the simple stupid stuff that's cheap. Check the movement of your actuators. If you see all the comments 99% of the issues seem to be dirty contact or broken contacts inside the actuators. They are pretty simple once you get the hang of it. They come off easy with good tools and then you can clean and test on the bench. This is after you tested to see if they were running on the vehicle. Remember, they will often operate with just the key on so you'll be able to hear things better, motor not running. GL

Sorry, I'm no expert. As far as I know on my tundra vacuum was simply a way to keep moisture out.

Hi, sorry so slow. It sounds like partial engagement of the front diff. I would go thru the steps of testing the front. Exercise it going slow forward and reverse. Try low too. Listen for your actuator motors to see if they are running, you can do this with motor off and help from a friend. If exercise does not make a difference, pull the front actuator and clean it up inside, checking the things I point out in the 3 videos. Good luck.

Just cut a chunk off and bring it to one of the parts stores, they should have vac hose in stock.

That's strange... I might try to get it scanned by someone to narrow it down. I think I understand your conclusion, maybe your right. I had not thought of how it works until you mention this. I think you enlightened me. I think there is a test for those switches online somewhere, maybe Google that test too. If that switch is not too expensive I might take a shot but a scan might help. Good luck, let us know what you learn. Thx

Yes, could be sensor but my guess is possibly an alignment of the gears when putting back in. I think counter clockwise disengages the 4x4 so you want the switch off then insert actuator and then cycle to see if it works. It seems like it may be off just a few teeth.

No, you can just remove the ADD. Gl

@@wetlifesports Wow, really tough to get the ADD out after unbolting it! The space is very tight. I managed to finally work it out past all of the stuff in the way but now I am wondering how I will get it back in without messing up the new gasket in the process. Any suggestions? I have unbolted a couple of what I think are trans cooler lines so I can move them but it will still be tough. What did you use for new gasket material? Thanks for your help! BTW, my problem seems to be identical to yours. The motor runs strong but there was grease all over the contacts which I think were making for bad connections. Hopefully everything works when I get it back together!

Did it work for you @STEVE BOYER

@@kaohiahuna7662 I got everything back together and it worked but I learned a couple of valuable lessons. First, don't remove the whole ADD actuator if you don't have to, just remove the cover. If you remove the whole thing you will have to drain at least some of the diff fluid, plus it's really tough to get out due to the limited space. Second, make sure the big brown gear with the finger contacts stays in place. You will see it when you take the cover off. Take a picture of it in case it comes off so you can put it back in exactly the same position. You will also lose some diff fluid if it comes off. Basically, just remove the cover, clean up the old grease, test the motor per the part 2 video, put a light layer of dielectric grease on the contacts and put it back together. Let me know how it works out for you.

Just follow the pointers in the 3 videos and read some of the comments, first check to see if your front and back actuator motors are running, go from there.

So everything works fine? I can't tell what your saying without punctuation. Are you saying it does all of this on its own? It may be dirty or have too much grease or it may have a crack in the metal contact paths. Maybe just use it once per day for a week and see if it clears up.

Wet Life Sports yes everything works. While driving the lights will flash. Will check connctors thanks for your help.

Well now today the 4lo light is flashing every once it will stop. Will it hurt anything if I still drive it if it’s not in 4wd.

Sorry, can't help with that. I think you'll find it on KZfaq somewhere. Gl

No, and I don't think so.

Just took it apart and cleaned out some grease and it has worked fine since

Just a little sticky, maybe just clean her out.

No but it's straight forward, you want good tools. I bought a good JIS screw driver set, "Japanese Industry Standard" they make a big diff. They have the grip tips and one of them has that stuck screw design meaning you can hit it with a hammer and its designed to turn slightly upon impact to crack it loose. But I think you may need to use socket sets with Phillips tips, use good tips, and and extension and a swivel adapter. BUT, start off with a good shot of wd40, a few times. Good luck

@@wetlifesports i took the plastic cover off and pulled out the plastic gear assembly it was super easy i did not need to take that top cover off and pull the small gear out.

Did that fix it?

@@wetlifesports it ended up being the front diff actuator. but i was able to temove the whole t case assembly this way pretty easily to inspect it

No, they just need to be put back in the same way. I'll be posting a new video showing that soon. I just re-fixed mine as my truck got flooded in Ian and the front one failed again. A good cleaning fixed it.

Please help I feel like banging it to my head... my phone I would gladly give for the help. Or $

Hi Alan, I had a 2002 as well, loved it! Are we talking about the front actuator? If so I believe I recall clockwise engaged it and counter dis-engaged it. But, I would cycle the system to make sure your actuators are on the same page. Meaning the rear actuator as well. I would turn off the 4X4 and make sure it dis-engages at least the rear, meaning you may have to drive it back and fourth in a straight line, slow and gentle. If you think you got the rear dis engaged, you can check to see if the drive shaft leaving the transfer case headed forward spins freely, then go underneath and see if you can gently turn the front gear and shaft counter clockwise to disengage the front wheels. Pay attention to your 4x4 indicator lights while doing this stuff. If this works put the gear back on in a way that will line up with the worm gear in the motor housing. Put it back together partly, meaning sung but easy enough to try again. Don't forget to plug the power lead in. If this doesn't work try the opposite, try to get it all engaged. Remember you need to drive the vehicle to get any of this to work, the system won't mate up unless the gears are moving. If this still does not work check the other systems. If the position switches on the transfer case are bad it won't get the correct signals. Call a garage and see if they have the computer to scan it and narrow it down for you. If they tell you something is bad you can focus on that part and clean it up or replace it. Make sure you have good lighting to see the small details of lining things up under there. Be careful. Good luck.

Can't tell if your saying it works but light blinks or if it's dosent work at all. I got my local garage to scan it. Just call a few until you find one that has a computer good enough to narrow it down for you. GL

Depending on its history, weather it's used alot or in deep water or barely used. Most are barely used and just regular exercise gets them going again.

Not sure, Google parts diagram for that or just take the old one with you to the auto parts store or an Ace. Gl

I guess it should have some sort of timing

Hard to say from here. I recall that there was only one way it would fit.

@@wetlifesports Ok...it has a rod when you remove the complete actuator....the rod should be all the way out or all the way in?

Get it all in either the engaged position or Dis engaged. I think clockwise engages the 4x4, so counter clockwise Dis engages. Make sure the button has cycled off, the shaft is turned counter clockwise, the whole system is dis enguaged, then put it together as far as needed to test. GL

Are you sure it was the transfer case actuator? Did you test to see what was running and what wasn't? Just from sound, vibration? I think it can be done motor off, in neutral, BUT blocked good and on flat surface for safety!!

We're headed that way March 12 to ride dirt bikes. Moab. Too early?

Errr, mine just failed again this week. Just keeps flashing. I guess i can't blame her. Ian submerged the entire system. I'm shocked the truck still works at all. I tried the 4x4 a few time after the Hurricane and it worked. I guess the corrosion is catching up. She has a few other quirks as well. She tries to lock me out all the time now. I guess ill make more fix it videos if i can.

@@wetlifesports actually I’m going this coming Friday Saturday Sunday and Monday. Yes is cold and snowing this year. But March should be perfect

I’m still trying to decide if I should take my tundra has brand new tires off road but horrible on the snow ❄️ or my 2012 Honda accord v6 3.5 has new tires too . Moab is freaking gorgeous I go there a list 6 times a year. I live in Salt Lake City Utah so not that far from salt Lake is 229 miles away from salt Lake 4 hours away

Most likely not necessary, just clean up the grease on the contacts inside the switch. Did you bench test the motor like one of my videos shows?

@@wetlifesports still working on getting it out. It looks as though someone may have been here before me.

Hi, I found despite the computer diagnosis from my mechanic that my front actuator was still good, my 4x4 is now working again and continues to. Did you watch all 3 videos. Both the front and back actuator are virtually identical so I imagine the issues are much the same. You might be able to coax your system, even the old actuator into working by cycling it manually or semi manually. Do the testing I point to, listen to see if motors are running see if the transfer shaft engages, pull the motors and hot wire, make sure you don't have excessive grease in there. Turn the shaft manually and see if you get 4x4. To enguage try reverse, turning a bit, etc. Good luck

Plug in a scan tool and clear the code.

Fix it?

No but i lived there in the past. Did you get it fixed?

Workinman Workinman apparently snowflake engineers cant handle a real shifting knob

Hi, Yes, your right, I was wishful thinking out loud, misspoke. In my case Never means 99% of the time. At 60K this current Tundra lost the rear differential, I was very surprised as my previous tundra never had any transmission issues. So when I was done with that repair, and some front brakes.. I think I was close to 4500!! Ouch!! I lost a bit of faith temporarily but knock on wood I have not been left on the road side ever, dangerous statement... With the noisy Diff, I drove thousands of miles with just an odd drone. My local mechanic was thinking tires, another one said front diff, another one said wheel bearings.. I literally got 4 different opinions then finally put that info together with the knowledge that there was metal particles in the rear Diff oil. She is good now and better be for life!! at least as far as diffs go... :0 Still, I get total pleasure driving it everyday, so smooth, so quiet and personally the seats make my back better! I looked and looked and personally didn't find anything I liked better new or used. Good size for me and we all know its just personal preference. Since owning 4 runners, highlanders, LX470 and tundras since 1997, I have had the best of luck. I do think they have gone downhill a bit, got a bit more plastic, tinny, etc. I got a new Tundra loaner when they were doing my diff and holy cow powerful but did not like the fit and finish on the inside. Granted, it was not the limited with leather at 50K plus.. For the most part all we ever do is change the oil and very rarely does anything major happen and what is nice is that the little stuff never fails. I have never had a power window fail, door locks, etc. etc. So they don't annoy you with little stuff and I love the ergonomics. To me 99% of everything is in the right place. I like simple stuff that works, if it works keep the design the same. Maybe I am ""getting old" I can't stand the new cars with the touch screen stuff everywhere in that it takes you 20 minutes to figure out how to tune the radio and dim the dash lights. You have to pull over to adjust anything because it requires you to stare at the screen and not watch the road. We have a newer Honda Odyssey and to me it is horribly designed in terms of controls, I was not smart enough to see it upon purchase and its hard to avoid. I like the handling, motor, transmission and the body, doors, etc. but the controls and dash are horrible IMO. Seats not great to me either. Wife likes it so were good. Well, I got carried away, design is one of my favorite subjects. Take care.

Ouch! It happens. Bummer.