Wow. I just did your test and found my leak immediately. And under vacuum… it held! But not under pressure. Awesome new idea you taught me.

At the end of the video, gauges still showing 50 psi,indicating no leak! :) Thanks for sharing.

I like your trouble shooting method using compressed air to find leaks. But without seeing clutch movement I think that this procedure should include gauges on and comp on to see first of all if comp is trying to press up system and pumping. Bottom line is this will save folks money 💰. It's a great diy. Thanks.

Man they give you a ton of data pertaining to the AC compressor operation in there! I'm glad you cleared up what that "3" digit meant in the compressor status data PID, totally didn't know that before! Thanks for bringing us all this fine footage on these euro's man, I always learn something new.

I love the VW/Audi Air Con PID's. Those Pressure Sensors sure are problematic for leaks and sensor failure. I replaced 4 last summer and always have 1 in stock. Nice work 👍

Nice work Tom on the thought process of going through the diagnostics. And great info on the scanner to show the a/c pids! One tip that I've used on locating leaks is to use an ultrasonic leak detector which works very well.

For me a diyer this idea of compressed air as a diagnostic tool is great , and if it's put under vacume before filling ... On a system that's been empty of refrigerant... the chances of having any negative effect must be next to 0 ! Great video !

Awesome job Sir! I've seen Paul use this method but you performed it very efficiently and showed a perfect example. Well done. I'm planning on taking my first stab at servicing my own A/C system this summer and this will definitely help. Thanks Tom!

Cool video. I didn't realize the scan tool gave that much data for AC. Thanks!

Nice video ! I'm going to screen grab those compressor codes lol as we work on a lot of Vag cars and always wondered what the numbers meant . Used compressed air for several years and never had a problem . It's a very efficient and cost free way to troubleshoot a/c

The air trick is fantastic! Thanks for sharing.

You can take a look if you can see oil residue and there is you leak/s or hear also if its not a small leak, anyway the soapy water is what almost everyone use so great video and diagnose.

The receiver drier is for sure saturated with moisture, you will never get all of the moisture you just induced out of there. Nitrogen is your friend when checking ac leaks.

right on tom i got a 02 gti so i will be watching you close for all my vw info lol

Very informative - thanks very much. Bob Hulen

Good easy test to check for leaks.

Good work i liked all your video , i learned many thing from you thank you and keep going. you also can use an old refrigerant compressor for compressing and evacuation of ac circuit this compressor can comperes for about 300 psi

Nice job thanks for sharing I saw danner do this and forgot about it it’s a great test keep the videos coming love them

Great video very helpfull thanks for posting. All the best from England. 😊👍👍

Yes danner and you are doing some cost effective perfect diagnostic techniques 💌

Guys, I want to thank you for sharing all this information. This is my case. I have a 2002 Beetle. When I turn on the AC on the fan position I could see the AC light turn on and can feel the compressor kicking in. BUT, when I move the position of the button to 1, 2, 3, or 4 the AC light shuts off and the air is fan air and not cold air. I did this 1. Check the battery fuses (they are not melted) and change the position on them to make sure they were ok. 2. Bought a Fan Control Module and changed it. I still have the exact same situation. AC light is on in the fan position, but then after hitting 1, 2, 3 and 4, it shuts off and no cold air. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

good video good review for the coming months a/c season is here

thanks to scannerdanner i found ur channel.good stuff man

Awesome video man!

Don't use compressed air, use dry nitrogen for pressure testing, compressed air might introduce contaminants into the system and cause other problems.

Dude you ROCK!!! Thanks.

Gd test great test

Excellent! Thanks for the education!!!!!!

Nice work Tom

NICE one TOMMy, thanks for sharing.cheeeeeeers

Thank you! It is really helpful.

I like to use a rubber tipped air chuck and blow directly into the low side service port and keep the high side gauge connected. the air will go past the valve and it will self-seal when I let go of the trigger so I don't have to close a valve.

Great work,thanks for sharing

Nice mechanic

Stellar job!

you and scanner Danner sound alike ? lol very informative great job

Nice Tommy !

That is a great idea, do not have to go through the bs charging cycle with the ac machine and waste 20 minutes only to find there is a leak.

Yes great video keep them coming plz

Alright 100% legit way to work on the street without making 2 much of a big mess or hassle

this just turned into a engine detaling vid :P

Nice video, dude!

nice find👍

Where Ca I get that tester??

good video. I got code 16. related to n280 in the compressor. Question is. Code 16 refer to circuit problem or performance problem in n280?

Where do you find those off codes. Can you use Identifix or Mitchell to find the list of code's. Nice video by the way.

did you going to replace the receiver/dryer? if not what's your out look on it

theres couple of step to do the a?c if every thing works but is not getting colder check your pressure switch or you need to recharge your freon leaking but if the comopressor dont work at all it might be stock and you will need a new now if everyhing is good but still not clod check your blower under the compartment now if the issue your a?c is loud noise it migth clogged issue or bearing ang your pipe is getting so wet and moisted this just base on my experience

Have 2010 Jetta 2.5 mk5 and Level I’ll check the fuses office is good but I still know how the power and the positive cable connect to the compressor what else I can check I’ll replace the relay inside car Do you think is gonna be the control AC panel the one inside because I push the button for the AC on and not doing nothing I’ll push it off and let’s continue Johnson didn’t do nothing and I still don’t have power in the positive cable

What is the compressor type or part code

Hi Thanks for the video,I will like to know which scanner were use it.? thanks

good test gotta vacum anyway !!

Hai.. my car is vw jetta 1.9 tdi mk5 2008 dsg having same type of compressor.. problem is when i turn on ac its not cooling immediately some time in sunny days.. after few min like 10 to 12 min its turing on cooling... While driving car also its stoping cooling automatic and turing on cooling .. it self.. what is the problem.. everything is ok looks like but problem is not identified and its irritating me q lot.. pls help. Me out my broo

all vid best

nice tommy

hey brother 00457 - Control Module for Network (J519) 013 - Check DTC Memory its a 2008 jetta with a 2.0fsi non turbo engine any thoughts tried changing the control valve on the compressor still nothing compressor does not come on when trying to recharge the system. this code is stored in the hvac and comfort control module.

thanks great

Great diagnostic and fix. So does this test with air, later create more moisture in cabin when using AC? About that status codes, did you get them from repair manual, or is it described somewhere in Elsawin?

What diagnostic computer did you use on this?

is that a snap on scanner?

Hi where did you got that chart with codes definitions where can I get a copy ?

refrigerant should not be at cero, meaning pressure minute 3

I have Toyota corolla gli ac trip same time same work comprsar new what is problem please

nice. Video. tech. exselecte diagnostic. saludes. noelmatute

cool way to find a leak

how did you check to see if the evap core had a leak or the hard to reach spots

So a leak can cause it to blow warm air?

I have a 08 GTI and my A/C blows intermittently. I noticed if it's 90+ degrees outside, the A/C doesn't blow cold but if it's below that temperature it works fine. Any thoughts? I remember have that pressure switch shown on the video replaced like 3 years ago.

What model scan tool are you using

Great video!! Thank you! My mk4 has the exact same problem. Any thoughts on what I should do to repair it

safety third!

Says the cabin temp is almost 90°F

I just need a 3000 dollar scanner now

Hope the Customer did not have to pay for you playing with the Scan Tool. :)

ahahahahahahahaha with water :D

Adding Air is Never a Good Idea. Small Tank of Compressed Nitrogen will last a long time if that is the rout you use to test for leaks. Most Air compressors produce massive amounts of moisture that is trapped in the air and it is rare to see a Shop that has a Moisture Separator. After-coolers and Refrigeration units work but don't get rid of all the water. Nitrogen on the other Hand pushes moisture and does not deposit any moisture inside the system. Today's modern Recovery & Recharge Systems claim to check for moisture when evacuating the system but I still don't think that is fool proof. But still a nice Video!!

9 out of 10 times condencer is to blame and it's on high presure side and yes no good idea to put air in... :-) my vw was ok for one season but this summer I get shut off number 16 something to do with g280 valve..sold car like this so don't know what it was presure sensor whitch I replaced last summer go in peases.. good video anyway

Boring