make sure those caliper pins are greased well, alot of time uneven brake wear can be cause by not greasing.

+loui828 Thanks for the feedback! Glad I could help!

+jharmon203 I was about to change the braking pads but a buddy told me I would also need to bleed the brakes and so I stopped, how come you didn't bleed them, so I have to, should I bleed them?

+loui828 I am not sure why your friend told you to bleed the brakes. If your brake pedal is still responding well and isn't soft, I personally wouldn't touch it. Some manufacturers recommend bleeding the brake fluid every so many miles. The latest print of the ford fusion 2010 manual doesn't mention any change interval on it. I didn't bleed mine because I didn't feel it needed it. You are certainly welcome to bleed them and replace as a preventative maintenance, but I don't think it's a requirement. Again I am NOT a certified mechanic. Most of the information I just gave you is stuff I just googled to see others thoughts. Anyone else care to weigh in?

Do NOT bleed your Brakes unless you have a spongey pedal or your pedal goes all the way to the floor and does not hold pressure. Let a mechanic bleed your brakes, because most likely its something else wrong and you might just put air into your brake system if you don't know what your doing.

Absolutely!

Just spent a half day drilling out and replacing one of those slides that you're talking about. It was a pain in the butt and could have been prevented with a little grease.

Hmmm, I do not believe I had this issue. Thanks for the feedback though as it might help others.

You are correct. I was going to say the same thing. the piston must be set with one of the notches lined up with the little nub sticking out of the bottom of the pad.

Silicon is great!

+James Wiggin Thanks for these torque specifications. Could you possibly provide the source where you found these? For torque spec such as these, I always have a hard time finding them and usually i just go for the "snug" approach. However, if these are the correct specs, it would be great to know where you found them.

Sure can, they are from the Haynes manual for Ford Fusion and Mercury Milans 2012 model year and older.

+nikonmikey actually, it helps when turning the brakes in it relieves the pressure of the brake fluid, otherwise it could be difficult turning them in.

Thanks for the feedback Ronald, what the process pretty much or exactly the same? I would like to put mercery milan in my title if it is.

It was pretty much identical.

Brian Housworth These are both excellent suggestions and clarifications. To be honest, I didn't know about greasing the caliper pins. Thanks for sharing that information. Grease on both the caliper pins and the metal clips is a good idea. Be careful when you apply it to the metal clips to not get it on the rotor. Firm brakes at 10-15 MPH is a great way to test. I do not advocate speeding up and stopping on a dime.

@@soccerharms going in reverse and slamming on the brakes was a way that auto adjusting drum brakes was adjusted years ago, but rarely used now unless you have that type of brake.

This is an option yes, but honestly I don't recommend it. There is a chance the bolt can get stripped out and stuck, but I guess you are replacing the rotor that doesn't matter too much. Those threads can be pretty rusted on the rotor.

My ears were ringing from beating on the rotor 😖 living in the “Rust Belt” we need heat and penetrating oil and brute force to get stuff loose. Worked on the suspension on a twenty year old Rx7 from Florida once. It was like mechanics heaven😄Have a good day

They make a less expensive version a small cube for about $10 works great. Also in a pinch needle nose pliers while you push in and turn work great too.

Very helpful, I found this in Canadian tire: www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/disc-brake-piston-tool-3-8-in-0252013p.html

THE TRICK OF SENDING PISTON BACK

Donovan Gustafson Donovan, sorry I didn't reply to this sooner. The process should be relatively the same for the front brakes. In fact, I think it will be slightly easier because I don't think you need the tool to compress the the caliper piston. Instead, you can just used a c-clamp to compress the piston. However, if you see those notches, go to your autopart store and get the tool Once my front brakes need changing, I will make a video on that as well for all the DIYers like myself.

Ah ok, thanks for that reference point. I think I probably just "beat" and pushed on the caliper until it went down. The only issues I could see having with this part would be your piston isn't compressed enough to get the caliper over the new ones but it probably wasn't the case for me. I figured people didn't want to watch me just take time to push the caliper down over. What was the technical part you have troubles with that another video showed you? I am actually going to do this job tomorrow night again and I could possibly post a follow-up video

Alex - brake grease where the calipers and brake pads meet? I jus installed some and didn’t grease them so I have noise... I have to go back and grease them.. any info is appreciated

I use anti seize compound on the sliding portions of the pads. Another tip is put anti seize on the surface of the hub, being careful not to get ut onto the wheel studs. This will make it so the rotor will never rust seize again when you take it off.

Yes, make sure you also test your brakes on slow streets with hard braking. Do not immediately go on the highway or freeway after changing brakes.

Billy The Kiddo My guess would be that the edge is the same since the edge is based on the Ford Fusion platform. I would recommend getting the caliper compress tool from an auto parts store via the rental option.

When I made this video, I didn't know about it on the caliper slide pins. I have stated in other comments that I highly recommend doing it and I put it in the video as well. For the rotor, I just simply forgot to. You are right it's a good idea to clean it. As for the pad clips, I wasn't confident that I wouldn't get the grease on the pads accidentally. I know it helps with squeaks by helping the pads to not get stuck on the rotors. Thanks for you feedback!

So they are doing all in the wrong way

Christoper Vaira...... There is a tool to use , I don't know the name of it. It's used with a hammer , you put the socket on the front ( with adapter cause the tool is 1/2 and the 40 star socket is 3/8 but once the 40 is on the tool and in reverse, hammer the end of the tool . I put some heat on the head first and rust remover spray.

+Matthew Shaw So you have two options here Matthew. Assuming you have both rotor screws out and your caliper bracket off, the rotor should be able to break free. If it is not, your rotor is warped and it's going to require a bit force to remove. The two options of doing this are a really big rubber mallet or hammer; or rotor removal screws. I just changed the rotors on my 2009 honda pilot and I had a really tough time getting the rotors off. Only by about 10 mins of banging on the open section (the section that the thin metal shield doesn't cover) with a large rubber mallet did the rotor finally break free. Let me tell you it look a lot of hits to get the rotor off. I was out of breath. There were many times where I thought it just wasn't going to happen. The other option is to use remove removal screws. There are two screw holes (not the ones that you removed the rotor screws) that can put bolts through that would in essence push your rotor out. There are places that you can find the screw size on your car somewhere, I am just not sure where. Some say the washer fluid screw, other says some of the chassis screws near the rotors. However, these screws are not really hardened and can break during this process if you aren't careful. Take your rotor into home depot (more than likely the new and old rotor will be the same screw size), lowes, or whatever your hardware store is and try to find some good hardened screws that fit. If the screw breaks, you will have to drill it out and that why I recommend the hammer method and elbow grease. The rotor will come off if you have everything detached provided your lug nut screws aren't severely bent. In that case you have other major problems that you will probably need to take to a mechanic.

Sachin Parmar Thanks for catching the brake cleaner no going on the back of the rotor. This is a great suggestion.

All I can say is the process will be very similar. I haven't done the front brakes yet, because they haven't needed changed yet. Apparently with these newer brake systems, the rears actually get worn out before the fronts. It seems counter-intuitive on a FWD vehicle, but it's apparently the case. GL with install and take yourself out to eat afterwards with the $$$ you save. Or just buy more cool tools.

+jharmon203 No, the front wear out quicker than the rear. Yours must have been changed at some point. I didn't have to replace the rear on my 2010 fusion until 111,000 miles. I did the front at 72,000.

I agree, the rears usually make it to around 100k, though I recommend doing them all the way around when you do the Fronts. Did mine at 60k and they needed it! FordtechMakulo is awesome for Ford Techs btw!

I googled this: "brake piston compression tool" and got prices around $20-30. However, like I said in the video, just go to an autoparts store and rent it for free. You buy the tool, use it, then take it back to the store for a full refund.

thank you sir. much appreciated

+Matt Ulakovic Certainly not a stupid question is there are many wrong ways to lift the vehicle. I DO NOT recommend using the lift that came with the car. It should really only be used in emergency circumstances. If you are attempting to do this job yourself, you are going to save hundreds on labor costs so invest that money into tools that you can keep (it's what I did). You have a couple of good options in my opinon. Both are hydraulic floor jacks. I currently own two. I have a smaller 2 1/4 ton jack and a larger 3 ton floor jack. You could also buy a bottle jack, but I don't really recommend these since they can't move as the vehicle shifts (they don't have wheels) You always want to lift the vehicle on a part of the steel frame. For this job, I placed the jack to a section just about inline with the door handle (basically a little farther to the rear of the vehicle). You basically want to lift at the part just before the bend occurs at both ends. Never lift in the middle for brake service. Hope this helps.

+jharmon203 But where? The pinch welds under the doors? Or is there a better place?

Are you certain that the screws are not required for this vehicle? The haynes manual certainly does not indicate so. Im certain no damage will be done if u leave them off but why would anyone want to anyways?

Are you certain that the screws are not required for this vehicle? The haynes manual certainly does not indicate so. Im certain no damage will be done if u leave them off but why would anyone want to anyways?

Yes, I am sure. Those screws keep the rotors on while the car is on the assembly line. ;) They strip often and are not needed. But you can reinstall them if you want. Might want to add some anti-seize.

***** Yea one of mine stripped. I have no idea why they decided to use those stupid star head bolts. I just drilled it out and only put one back on that side.

Yeah, their only purpose is to hold the rotor on during the car assembly process. Once they rust, they are a pain in the ass to get out. I strongly suggest the use of antiseize if you must have them.

Penetrating oil helps loosen rusted bolts and screws

Justin, Thanks for your input on the brake pads. I looked this up and found an article on cartalk. www.cartalk.com/content/i-am-about-change-brake-pads-my It's not absolutely necessary with both new pads and rotors, but still probably not a bad idea.

Yes exactly the same. I just changed them on my gf's 2011 today.

+DrewThomas AYtTNrnal5jkr rk jkjust hrtyh9 joYunju kd

Not all fusions are hybrids

@@soccerharms imagine that! It was a question.

Nick Weber No just FWD

Can you reference at what point in the video the bolts you are referring to? You could try an impact wrench to try to get them off, but that's really a last resort. A breaker bar should be used first.

Yeah just the 14mm bolts on the first step to get the caliper loose..

I agree 100%, I didn't realize that at the time and it's been documented in the comments to spray both sides.

And 322 is considered a cheaper brake job from a place. I usually hear around 500. I have hear quotes over 1000 for disk brakes.

jharmon203 3uiby ttwe_I'll

So sorry that I didn't keep the recording going where you needed help. I try to make my videos as short and concise as possible, so perhaps it was an area that I didn't feel needed much further explanation. Can you please let me know where exactly the video cut off? Minute and Second?

Lol, what a puke. It's not his responsibility to make sure the video he made with his time and supplies, caters to your needs.. if you're having that much trouble, pay someone to do it for you.

Other than the non-greasing of the caliper pins, what issue do you have with the process? Other have provided helpful comments as to what they would change.