Glad it helped you out.

Glad it helped you. Either way it's an ugly job.

My shop is a one man operation but occasionally I might have a helper...

Glad it helped you.

Glad it helped you.

It's like this on pretty much everything today. Engineered to be cheap to build and often don't consider what it will cost the consumer for common repairs. I agree that some things are common sense. For example having to remove an entire front bumper and grill to replace a headlight bulb is just bad engineering. Unless it has HID lights typical bulbs last 3000 hours. They are going to need to be replaced at some time. Starters, alternators, heater blower, thermostats, drive belts, and bulbs should all be simple to replace. Oh well keeps me employed...

@@PhillipBailey This was very helpful to replace the fan. you took out all of the guess work. But I have replaced the blower motor, resistor, fuses are good and I checked the relays. Everything seems to be in working order. But the blower still isn't working. Might you have any other ideas. The only thing I didn't replace is the switch itself

@@christophergreen30 do you have power to both fuses 10 and 11 with the key on? You should have power at the blower motor yellow wire with key on. The resistor supplies the ground. It's not really a resistor it's a transistor. If you unplug the resistor (transistor) and jump the red to black the fan should run on high. There is no Switch that you can change it's part of the control assembly. Check these things and get back to me if you can't figure it out.

@@PhillipBailey thanks for all of your help. It ended up being the squirrel cages not being to same and it had to new blower in a bind. It did burn up my new transistor but I still had my old one and it worked. So I just put the old squirrel cage on the new blower motor now everything seems to work. Thanks so much it really help me track down the problem. Come to find out the part that was sent didn't match the picture and spins the opposite direction. I'll have to do it all again with the correct part

@@PhillipBailey if you have a venmo or PayPal I'd like to send you a few dollars for your help

The only thing I can think of is a plugged cabin filter, If all the controls are set to maximum airflow. Has the heater ever been worked on before? If so maybe something was not put back together correctly.

No I never removed the resistor

I just saw another video. Didn't show which way to the. The jam nut, but I think I want to turn it clockwise because you have to turn the clevis counter-clockwise. So turning the jam nut clockwise will move it AWAY, thus leaving room to get the clevis off?

It's normal right hand thread just tight. First law of mechanics: right to tight, left to loosen.

​​@@PhillipBaileyes, I always remember "lefty loosey; righty tighty" 😅 So that's why I initially was turning the nut counter-clockwise (left) to loosen. But the clevis part needs to come off, so the nut needs to go farther onto the bolt, thus "tighten" thus to the right (clockwise) in order to make room to turn the clevis to the left (loosen). So the nut turns right, the clevis turns left. And it took all my strength to loosen it. I had to get a long screwdriver and jam it behind the long metal post thing underneath so I could use both my hands on a longer crescent wrench, and the reef to the right as hard as I could. And it loosened.

I would quote a couple hours plus parts.

Glad it helped you

I also had to remove the Clevis.

Sounds like the brake pedal is not returning properly. Check if the pushrod to tge brake pedal is installed correctly and if tge brake light switch is stopping the brake pedal from returning correctly.

If you disconnect the battery prior to repairs you should not set any codes. Codes will set if you turn on the ignition with the accelerator pedal disconnected. After cycling the key off to on with the pedal reconnected the codes should go to history but the MIL may remain on. It should run fine though and any OBD 2 reader should be able to clear the codes. You may also be able to clear the codes by disconnecting the battery cable for several minutes as well.

Not sure what you're asking. How to replace the hood release cable? Or how to get the hood open if the cable is broken?

@@PhillipBailey no. You said to undo the hood release so you can get the plastic panel cover off. I ended up finagling with the panel and got it out of the way instead of getting it right out. Need the panel out of the way to make room for getting the blower out.

@SarahPoulin oh I'm sorry I don't remember specifically how it is removed from the handle.

That's like Jiffy on a toothache...

I got lucky twice now it’s out forreeal 😂 time to get my hands dirty

No edit ere. I intended to write, 'removes much more stuff than I did'.

if he's your friend you should do it for free...

I'm charging 125$

2 to 2.5 hours.

That's awesome glad it helped you..

@davidknicks I believe its 8mm

Did you plug in all the connectors you disconnected? How about the connectors on the bcm above the gas pedal.

@@PhillipBailey that was it! Thank you! Nightmare of a job but I couldn’t have done it without you!

@rudycastellon6360 great, glad it helped you.

It definitely is a challenge. I found it easier to unplug after unbolting the fasteners. You have to be part Houdini...

@@PhillipBailey I gave up on it tonight Im dizzy as hell from hanging upside down from the passenger seat since i dont have the tool to take the driver seat out

@@PhillipBailey The worst part is i dont think anything is even wrong with it some junk probably just got stuck in it, I could hear it rattling for some time and then it would stop working and would only start going again if i made left turns or hit potholes 😂

@@Usef320 that's a typical sign of worn brushes in the motor. Hit a bump or turn corners and the blower will stop or start. Good luck.

@@PhillipBailey Appreciate the help brother I just got the new motor in, having trouble wiggling it in, pretty sure the old harness got lost somewhere in no mans land 😂

Yes thats likely worn brushes but eventually that won't work anymore

I'd say 2 to 2.5hours plus the cost of the blower motor and filter while you're in there.

@@PhillipBailey My 2012 sentra blower motor is howling and grinding like a bastard. Dropping off Friday. My mechanic said around 200 for parts and labor. After watching what you had to do, i cant see it only being 200 bucks. ha

@user-zu1zf3yf4p yes thats cheap. He may not have checked the labour time guide. Book time is around 6 hours and includes dash removal. Most blower motors are under an hour. Let me know how it goes.

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hbJmlNVjq-Den3U.html

The 2013 is completely different from this 2010 model. In the 13 it's behind the glove box door.

Depends on how much per hour and how many hours. If you look up the factory time it's like 4 to 5 hours as they say the entire dash must be removed. Doing it this way is still tough but I'd quote you 1.5 hours plus the part. Hope this helps

My mechanic just told me it'd cost up to a grand, which I think is insane.

@@kingtut5520 I'd get another quote. He's probably looking at book time for the job. I've done this the "right" way and this way.

@@kingtut5520 That's a price I saw several place. A mechanic can bring in more dollars doing oil changes all day than spending the day getting the dash in and out. I've read it's more like 8 hours with the dash and heater removal and replacement.