Unbelievable!!!!! What a ripoff. Great job on the rotors they look much better (and sportier) than the OEM

As an ex dealer automotive technician i can say there are bad mechanics but there are also good ones my advise to anyone who takes their vehicle to a shop is build a good relation with with your mechanic and gain their trust

They really rip you off. All dealers. It’s a shame how they rip off every day people who work tirelessly for their money. But God is watching, and listening and they will suffer a royal guilt of an enteral complex to be their end.

For what i know about mechanics (not to much) there was no reason to change the back rotor pads, just for the better look, there was no wear on them.

Sorry for how long this comment is, but here you go...it's all useful info at least for the most part.... Wow that's a cheap front caliper design. Most calipers are in 2 pieces, a bracket and the actual caliper. Those are nice because a single bolt, the upper bolt, is removed and the bottom bolt acts as a hinge to open the caliper and change the pads. Oh the rear calipers are what I'm talking about. Also rear brakes wear a lot slower than the front brakes, I typically change the front pads two or three times before having to do the rear pads. Which is why those rear pads were so thick still. That goes for any and every typical road car. Front pads need changing | rear pads hardly ever. At least that's what 22 years of working on my vehicles has taught me (no im not 22, I was 16 22 years ago). Anyways the only bad thing was you forgot/ didn't bleed the brakes after compressing the caliper piston. Can easily be done by a single person with a dry empty bottle with brake fluid in it and two holes in the cap, one snug hole for a hose going into the fluid at the bottom of the bottle you add at the start and another small hole in the cap for air equalization. Connect the hose to the bleed screw and give the screw a turn, set down the bottle and start the car pump the brakes. Go look at the hose (it should be a clear hose) once the hose is full of fluid with no air bubbles in it, tighten up the bleed screw and top off the reservoir and move onto the next wheel. Always top off the reservoir at the beginning and after every wheel. Then just suck out the extra at the end. Closest wheel to the reservoir first, judging that by brake line length shortest line first to longest line last. Your car would be FL, FR, RL, RR. [ F ront, R ear, L eft, R ight ] +Good info: Otherwise if not doing a bleed, just pump the brake peddle in the driveway and build up the pressure before even putting it in gear, cause if there is a problem you don't want to find that out as you are driving. *Useless info: Also those rotors looked perfectly fine. Hmm I used to own a Lexus ES 300h, got it brand new from the dealer and pre-paid for X many services (first time owning a hybrid) and at least my dealers service department was str8 up and honest with me. The Land Rover dealership at first tried to take me for a ride. Called them out online and explained how they tried to take advantage of people by fast talking and overload a person with info. Kinda like this comment lol. +Good info: But there is one thing that is a must which Lexus doesn't include in their vehicle maintenance schedule, that is changing the transmission fluid. They only inspect for leaks and if no leaks they move on. It still needs to be changed and with how annoying that change can be, I'd suggest letting them do it. Cause the engine needs to be running to fill the transmission to the right level. *Useless info: transmissions function basically by a bunch of metal discs being compressed together with sandpaper discs in between them, so they can all spin together and if the fluid goes bad , as all fluid does. It'll burn out clutch packs, cause the broken down fluid can't protect the sandpaper discs any more. Low fluid would do the same thing if enough pressure can even be created to compress the clutch pack. +Good info: Transmission fluid should be changed at best every 30,000 miles or at least at every 50,000 miles. Beyond that is pushing it and if it is never changed once 100,000 miles comes and goes then changing the fluid could be a bad thing. *Useless info: It's crazy how every car manufacture avoids changing transmission fluid. Same goes for the differential and transfer cases of 4x4's or PTUs of AWDs they only check for leaks and move on. Those also need regular changing that isn't in the maintenance schedule.

Your rear pads looked like they are still good. Did you just change them because you installed the cross drilled rotors?

Did you add shim kits to The pads? My brakes are squealing