Honestly the oil changes arent too bad. The plastic drain plug means no tools or torque wrench are required so that step goes quicker. In terms of spillage I recall it being a similar story with my last 5.0 in 2013. I suspect next time I will try and get sneakier with a makeshift funnel. Otherwise just snag some brake clean and rinse of the areas where it dripped and dry with a rag.

Agreed. I got some flack for not using “full synth” but I can say after another couple thousand miles the computer wants me to change much sooner than anticipated. In my opinion this may be a case to utilize the regular motorcraft semi synth or mobil 1 full synth 5w-30 since its often for sale cheaper. Im at 3900mi and its down to 33% oil life after changing at the first 1k miles. I can foresee myself changing every 3500mi if it continues and 10qts aint cheap ;)

Yea i wound up getting a smoking deal on a 4 post lift so no more cumbersome jack and stands for me 😎

2021 mustang gt now recommends 5w-30 with basically the same engine as the 2020.

Trust me with the future plans I have for this car its going to need two of them. They are on the list

I installed one J&L catch can on my '19 GT passenger side and it does indeed catch the crankcase back pressure oil vapors and condenses them in the can. I normally drain the can about once per month (if I think about it). The catch can prevents the oil vapors from being returned to the intake tube which can dilute the gasoline and decrease the fuel octane percent. Currently about $159 at American Muscle.

Personally, I would opt for the silver. It hides the dirt better.

@@AStanton1966 Thanks, I did, I ordered in iconic silver. Besides hiding the dirt it also highlight the accents. Ford says it will be about 3 months maximum to deliver..

@@ralphluces4965 I wouldn't want to be in your shoes--the wait would kill me! Good luck with the new ride. I heard that Ford is dumbing down the ponies in a Mustang next year.

@@AStanton1966 the wait its fine, I will safe some more money to put it into the down payment. I heard so too, about dumping down the ponies, that is even better for this just one year model, 2021. The car market its crazy, sold my lease on the QX50 Red Sport back to Infiniti for $2K over the payoff, that is why I placed the order now instead of January as I had planned.

Dang thats annoying. That is really my only pet peeve is i dont feel the plastic drain plug seals well. Glad you read your owners manual. Had a lot of people bashing me on oil choice and whatnot.

Check out this playlist. The car is twin turbo’d now with nearly 1000rwhp. Plenty of track videos too (drag, road course, roll racing, etc.) 2021 Mach 1 kzfaq.info/sun/PL6ndNXE7Njaf_9GNn6RW1CAckvwQ6EX1f

I appreciate you watching!

Weird my 2021 gt asks for 5w30 in the manual for daily

Thanks for watching and your feedback. It is a shame that the aluminum boss the filter threads into couldn’t have been made to place the filter vertically. It wouldn’t totally fix the mess but would allow you to easily Pre fill the filter. I watched for oil pressure on startup without cranking it in flood mode and it built pressure immediately (i also pre filled the filter). I came back after a few weeks last night and checked the filter for tightness. It was super tight with no visible leaks around the filter. However i guess i hadn’t cleaned up all the oil initially which startled me at first when i saw it on the plastic shield. Im not totally buying into the dry install of the filter. I think the majority of issues with filters vibrating loose were either the more rattle prone GT350 or someone who just didnt put the filter on all the way correctly the first time. I will most likely continue to lightly dab on a bead of oil but ensure the filter is snug plus 180 degrees

Maybe their dad should actually be a dad and teach them?

@@TonicofSonic yeah there are a lot of fathers that sadly don’t choose to be dads in many kids lives

Meh theres going to be assembly lube, any metal broke breaking it in, etc. i dont think its too worrying

So in my experience the viscosity is typically tied to clearances, how the car will be operated, etc. I doubt by 2013 Track Pack car had different clearances than say a standard 2013 GT and thus it requiring 5w-50 would have been safe in either model. Similarly I bet you could run 5w-30 or even 5w-50 without damaging anything in your 2021 GT. If anything you might see lower mpg with the higher viscosity but preferable protection if you were tracking your car. The Mach 1 supplement to the owners manual discusses drastically increasing the frequency of oil changes following a track day. I am just happy it isnt 5w-50. That stuff is $$ and has to be ordered vs. easily picked up in stores

That’s frustrating. I havent been blown away by the build quality but the motor and trans are solid so i cant complain

Yea i haven’t seen a drop of oil consumption since even after an hour long track session. Ill probably swap out the drain plug during the next oil change

Best full synthetic oil on the market in my opinion is Liquimoly.

Mine had a few tablespoons in the passenger side but driver was bone dry. I will be modifying my catch can setup today for the twin turbos. I suspect to start seeing more oil in both sides.

Read the notes further. The “torque” spec they call for is minuscule - essentially uncheckable even with a standard inch pound torque wrench. The vibration issue was a problem with the FPC 5.2 and not the 5.0. Furthermore there will always be oil residue on the mating surface of the block even if you were to spin on a completely dry filter. There is no difference in a standard 5.0 and any of the last 70yrs of V8s. Lube the gasket or dont, whichever you prefer, screw it on until it bottoms out then add another 3/4 of a turn or so. Beyond that you are overthinking it.

*Me sitting here with a beard and no more mustache 🤓….shiiiiiiiit

@@truckandroll989 LOL! ok ok, three reasons, Three: Respond to silliness I posted on YT!

Yea I hear you. Im one of those weird people who doesnt like other people handling their stuff. Often times the oil change comes with a car wash aka a bristle wash with dirty tools, and the lot tech starts your car and beats on it or wtv, etc. i know i sound crazy but I just prefer to be the person who messes with it. That being said Ive been working on cars since before I can drive, Im a Mechanical Engineer by school/profession, etc. so Im fairly comfortable with everything and the money side doesnt bother me.

Check out my newer video where i make a modification for a 4 post lift. In that video you can see where jack from. Its hard to see with the cover installed underneath but is a metal support spanning between the frame rails beneath the steering assy.

@@truckandroll989 I’ve been Going through them. Keep it up

I believe there is a company who makes a quick drain plug with a valve and possibly a magnet which is supposed to work well. I just changed my oil the other day after 2900mi on the twin turbocharged setup and I really hate the plastic drain plug

Damn man that is a good call. I will look under there

Yea I dont disagree. Its basically a bullet plus a few little extra doo dads. Super fun car. Much spicier now that Ive added the twin turbos. Theres many more videos on this playlist and Ive got another fun one coming shortly. More parts coming in this week

So I think the first 100 miles are most crucial. You really go easy there. For me i kept it under 5k mostly. Maybe a couple runs after I had over 500mi to like 6000. I didnt baby it but i wasnt out there racing it either.

@@truckandroll989 It's crucial with Coyotes to beat on them early. Right from the first mile. If you don't, you'll end up with an oil-burner. I'm not saying drive it at the redline for miles at a time, but take it to the redline, then back off. Then get on it, then back off. The manual says "do not drive at a steady throttle", and that means get on it, get off it. Get on it, get off it. Coyotes need heat and pressure to bed in.

@@glock22357 Humbly I don't think so, new engines due to friction for new parts, will always require a break in, there will come years to push it and even a bid of abuse.

@@ralphluces4965 I've owned three of them. Have one now. I'm deep in the Mustang forum community and notice trends with oil consumption issues. Those that baby their motors early, have oil-burners.

Yea im fairly confident I broke it in right. I didnt beat it but I wasnt too ginger either. This oil wont be in too long and Ill prob switch to a full synth next time.

Thats super weird. I was surprised that the FOMOCO filter was smaller than Motorcrafr

@@truckandroll989 oil consumption is normal with a fresh motor it’s still in the process of seating the piston rings

@@hardlycreations Agreed. I was not that worried about it but it’s something that most people probably don’t think to check on a new car

The vibration issues were with the GT350 motor ...oil the gasket or you will have trouble getting the filter off.

Haha I’m 18 and I’m getting ready to order a 22 Mach 1 premium with the hp, appearance pack, pretty much every option lol

Upr is the way to go!

Yea the break in oil change is not required per the manual but rather my peace of mind. Like i mentioned you can get ten quarts of synthetic oil and a filter for around $50 if you shop around so to me it is money well spent. That being said it is not required.

After 2020 and up, ford recommends 5w30 for the famous coyote engine tick. Mach1, Bullit, or Mustangs GT’s have the same exact engine. There is no difference internally. Only difference is on the mach1 and bullit is a gt350 intake manifold, intake and ecu calibrations thats it

@@hialeahhigh Thanks for the info and reply...do you happen to have a link to any documentation on the updated ford oil recommendation? I would like to stay in the know as much as possible.

@@troyjohnson2627 no specific link, just knowledge i have acquire on the coyote platform. Shops as aldo welds, midnight performance, Alejando Flores, lund racing all share knowledge on thr coyote platform on KZfaq great people

@@troyjohnson2627 i can maybe answer any questions you might have if i can help as well

I have a spec sheet that calls for 5-20 and it is Mach 1 specific

Im honestly more worried about the dealership messing things up (albeit probably not an oil change). I had two MT-82s replaced under warranty and my car had a CAI, long tubes, mgw shifter, etc. this was back in 2014 but sometimes they are cool

@@truckandroll989 Trust me it’s not that I trust them more! In fact the opposite lol. I just know that if something does go wrong they can’t come back on me and say “well you did this” and that’s why it broke so it’s not covered under warranty. Once my warranty is up I will likely service it myself unless I don’t have the tools to do so. Like a trans swap.

For real though, You’re trolling aren’t ya?

If you put it on dry and it melts to block, I guess it wouldn't vibrate loose.

@@AStanton1966 Oh, is it the reason why there’s so much filter coming loose? The small factory filter came loose on mine. But haven’t got that issue with the fl500s, that I just hand tight,

@@jpogigtxcr1778 I don't know about Mustangs. However, I'm here to say I had a 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 WT pick up with a 4.3 6-cylinder. I couldn't keep an oil filter tight on that thing to save my life. It didn't matter how hard I tightened it or what filter I used. I traded that truck for a 2017 Silverado LTZ with a 5.3. Best move I ever made.

It really comes down to what purpose will this car serve. If you aren’t into modifications, dont plan on dailying it, and want a really fast modern car that hauls in a straight line and can do track days too than the ZL1. All around most enjoyable car to drive (if you can sacrifice a bit of straight line performance) the Mach 1 hands down. I couldn’t drive the ZL1 every day…period. However it is always a treat when I do occasionally drive it and have all the torque everywhere in every gear.

@@truckandroll989 First, thanks very much for the quick reply. My next vehicle will serve as my daily so I appreciate the comparison. I have a few other cars on my list and I'm trying to soak up as much advice as possible. Thanks again!

Just to follow up the level may not have actually been all that low. Im seeing on a fresh change oil reads pretty much in the middle of the dipstick so it could have been me thinking it was using oil when in reality it was not or only slightly. As for the color yes it is what it is. I didnt kill it during the break in but I bought it to drive it - headed back to the track in 2wks

Thats very odd. Ive been doing oil changes a long time and not putting oil in the filter itself means the that the oil needs to be filled on startup which could momentarily Result in starvation. Is it going to kill your motor? Is there any reason not to do it? Also no. Dont always listen to what people say without thinking about it a bit

Link to Ford instructions? Thanks

Yea Ive swapped to full synth. Oil wont be in it more than 3k miles now that Ive doubled the hp 🤣

In terms of consumption? Yea its possible a bit did not drain out. If the lines are above the drain pan it should gravity feed out. I kept an eye on it since than and it doesnt seem to use any oil

I did

A few reasons. First, I will probably change my oil around 5k miles or the next time I tear into the motor. Boost is likely in the future but OPG would need to be installed first meaning the oil would get drained. Therefore IMO if you aren’t running it out to 7-9k miles and truly using the computer’s change interval recommendations than full synthetic is a waste. Second both oils are approved in the owners manual and meet spec. Im not tracking the car at the moment so the added cost to me for lower mileage change intervals just isn’t worth it. I do plan to install dual catch cans which I believe is good insurance. Otherwise i say just follow the owners manual and if you are worries shrink the interval down to 5k miles and you should be more than safe.

For me the Mach 1 is more enjoyable. The stock supercharger on the Zl1 is addicting though. However if i had to pick one the Mach 1 (especially now that i have added boost)

People are getting all worked up about this and its not an issue. First, the oil filter issue was tied to the 5.2 Voodoo first due to the flat plane crank and the vibration it makes. Second, the boss the filter mates with will always have residual oil on it. Its just gravity. In the amount of time you go to swap filters, even if you were to wipe it dry, another drip will form. In a sense you are lubing that surface whether you mean to or not. Finally the “spec” is 44in lb + 180 degrees. Im going to tell you right now the average person tightens more than that. Ive had multiple Coyotes and do all my own work. There are bigger things to worry about than lubing or not lubing the seal.

@@truckandroll989 you are right according to yourself, but if you bring your car to our Ford dealership, and it's got a 5.0 in it, and I pull the oil filter and there is a ring from oil on the seal line, we will take pics of that and record it on the Ford software. Secondly it CLEARLY states in the owners manual NOT to do this, and it's also on Ford's service software. To each his own, don't know if I would personally roll the dice being cocky and taking that chance to buy an engine. Oh, and as many filters I've done, I've never had residual oil still coming out, but hey maybe I'm doing something wrong 🤷🤷.

@@williamh6547 lol id like to see how a service tech can determine whether a surface was pre lubed or not lol. I think there are bigger fish to fry

Yea thats what i put in it?

@TruckandRoll yes you did, I was sayin that as it applies to all 21 and up GTs not just Mach 1s

Maybe true… but its got twin turbos on it now making near 1000whp… so it is pretty damn good. Best part is it still has the stock clutch. It might be a parts bin car but they are great fucking parts!

Yup its plastic. Honestly i dont have a huge issue with that as its pretty well protected but it was a surprise at first

I had a 2017 Mustang V-6 and it had a similar set up. The electronic steering control was right below the oil filter. My 2020 GT has a little more space between em. That funky plastic drain plug can be replaced with a Ronin type one. It's a lot better.

Lol just keep the key turned and let the starter motor spin the tires. I like your style

How about this, ford performance racing school doesn’t even use the 5W-30 they use 5W-50 only as does ford during durability testing. The 5W-30 is for fuel economy only. The boss 302 from 2012 uses 5W-50 and the same FL500-S filter as these cars so I switched. I picked up around 10 psi of pressure across the board.

@@hpkntnw If you are tracking it a lot 5w50 is a good choice. Stock cars or N/A cars with stock rev limits do well with 5w30 and the 5w30 will flow better at startup than the 5w50. I run 5w50 in mine because it’s boosted.

@@AB-coyote In theory they should flow the exact same when cold. They are both a 5w oil and the track oriented boss 302 ran 5w-50 I’m not sure why these cars don’t from the factory. It’s the same price as the 5w-30.

@@hpkntnw the 5w50 while it has the same “ winter “ rating they definitely will not flow the same when cold. It is significantly thicker when cold than the 30 weight.

While I dont disagree that the shift towards 5w30 across brands is likely due to increased mpg I dont think you NEED 5w50 for a performance engine. Im boosted as well and what I think is arguably more important is more frequent changes and keeping an eye on oil temp before getting on it. I always wait until I see my oil temps > 175 before giving it the beans. From a cost standpoint I think you maybe better off with a higher quality 5w30 thats full synth versus Motorcrafts semi synth blend. Id say save your money, run a better 5w30, and leave the expensive and hard to find 5w50 on the shelf

Thanks for watching. Your comments are an inspiration 👌

Go to 6:34 (give or take) and you can see exactly where in this video kzfaq.info/get/bejne/kNCPl7aZ37GpnIE.html

@@truckandroll989 thanks for the fast reply , but my mistake. I’m trying to find where to put the floor jack from. At 5:30 I can’t really see where the frame is at , but I could tell you used a piece of wood.

@@leninguzman6181 yea click on the full link in my reply and then go to 6:34. It is a link to a newer video and it will show you zoomed in where I jacked from

Ouch

So is making fun of strangers on the internet… but yet here we are 🤫

@@truckandroll989 chill out man - it's all in fun don't be so defensive - geeeeez 🙄🤷‍♂

On today’s episode of new terms for old people the word is “gaslighting”

Lol theres no harm in pre filling your oil filter. But im all ears and interested in why you think that. Did you mean pre lube the gasket?

Lol we are DINKs

Idkn if id call Motorcraft trash. I run pennzoil ultra synth now and change religiously at 3k mi due to turbos

Just saying these are two different transmissions. You had the Getrag Mt-82 in your GT. This is a Tremec Tr-3160. I agree with you on your transmission. I had a 2013 GT and Ford replaced two Under warranty. Just to be clear though I wouldn’t necessarily blame Ford for the transmission issues. Given my previous issues with former cars that is why I chose the Mach 1 because I knew it had the superior transmission.

Thats a pretty good idea. Its got twin turbos now so the CAI is gone but replaced with the upper charge pipe. Ill have to see if I have the space