No problem I had a hard time finding information when I was looking into doing it, glad I could help!

I have a 4 1/2 inch lift in the front and 2 inch block in the rear to keep it level. although all that is required is a 2 1/2 inch leveling kit to run the size of tire, truck came with factory auto leveling airbags which are amazing and are an amazing ride quality compared to conventional leaf springs. After putting these rims and tires on if aired up to 130 psi you do notice a little more when it comes to bumps on the road. But if you run them at 80 or 90 psi it pretty much rides like it did before. But I prefer to keep them aired to 130 due to the better fuel economy it gets. The fox 2.0 shocks also help with a better ride quality. I honestly barely noticed a difference once I put them on other than being a lot higher in the air, And having much less rolling resistance.

Ok great yes I run a 2019 ram 3500 cab chassis 60 “ with hitch crafters bed pretty much stock out than a pedal monster you truck is amazing looks like a 5500 and I love the stance I’m very Leary with lifts and stuff of that nature do you mind telling me exactly what products you used I think I’m going to go for it

I went online and searched for wheels they’re saying 22.5 won’t fit cab chassis

@@anthonyjames2870 I remember reading somewhere that the axles are about 8 inches narrower so 4 inches on each side, but the frame rails and leaf springs are also more narrow taking that number so I think 2 inches on each side. I’m not 100% sure but I think if you run 2 1/2 or 3 inch Wheel adapters you should be all right. If I was you I’d go to a dealership and pull some measurements on a regular one versus yours. Any half decent adapter manufacture should be able to custom build adapters for your rear axle to whatever length you need them. I went with venom adapters out of California

Website was venom wheel adapters American made high quality, steel or aluminum. The adapter to the wheel and to the hub were hubcentric, which made for a very tight and secure bolt up. Almost 30,000 miles on mine with no issues.

Did you have to notch the wheels for adapters?

You do Reyes a valid point plus I’d be less rolling resistance. I do a lot of off-highway used so I wanted thicker tread and more plies for puncture resistance.

THATS SUCH A GOOD POINT THANKS

The less weight you can put on your axles the better ride quality you’re gonna get, The aluminum adapters are about 20 pounds lighter than the steel, so that’s 80 pounds overall. there’s nothing wrong with the steel it’s just another factor in ride quality. I tried retaining the most OEM look and ride quality, this is how the truck should’ve come from the factory. I run 130 psi in all of the tires now versus when I first put them on at 80 psi, you barely notice the ride characteristic change unless going over train tracks.. lol but either way that’s rough in the Dually. However I did notice I gained 2 miles per gallon of fuel economy on the freeway. And I’ll take that over ride quality! never heard anything about the bushings going bad. I’m sure the brakes were a little faster due to larger tire diameter. As per ride quality tho before putting these tires on I switched to Fox 2.0‘s shocks and that made a world of difference with the ride quality then so I’m sure it’s helping now.

@@GoForBroke. thanks for the detailed reply. I was thinking of aluminum adapters, until a few guys who purchased it for heavy towing reported that the manufacturer doesn’t give a tow rating ( I guess they are afraid of lawsuits) Fox is what I was going to go with but this one guy who has the same tires and setup like you went with Icon ( A Russian/Ukrainian) hotshot guy). I plan to do heavy towing. But the lighter weight logic makes sense and I am heavily in favor of maximizing my MPG. I wish I could just replace my axles that came with 10 lug. But that’s a future project. My next project is to add supplemental air brakes for trailers to the RAM

@@rayislan9392 that makes sense but I’d also only go with a company that tests all their products, you’ll never find a company that guarantees load ratings for liability reasons tho. Look up venom wheel adapters out of California. They don’t necessarily have ratings but they’ve tested all their products under the harshest conditions. Steel adapters will give you the least amount of offset which would be best for hot shotting or towing, not allowing for too much tire stick out would help with rock chips and debris hitting your load. I’ve heard icons are pretty good and at almost half the price of fox. Personally knowing everything I know now and was gonna start hot shotting to make the most money possible, i’d run around with 4.10 gears 2 1/2 inch leveling kit upfront, steel adapters in the rear, 1 1/2”aluminum adapters upfront, fully bridged steer tires in the front bridged Drive tires in the rear, preferably the auto air suspension dodge comes with, with OEM shocks in the rear, and icon shocks upfront. tires aired up to the max. Tire pressure has a huge effect on the fuel economy, even my trailer would have the highest ply rating psi rating tire I could find. I have a 14,000 pound fifth wheel I pull, triple axle used to have 10 ply tires, 85 psi max switch them all to14 ply 110 psi max and averaged 3 miles per gallon better pulling my camper. It’s crazy how much rolling resistance changes with tire psi.

@@GoForBroke. I will definitely lookup Venom, Thanks!! I also like your idea of front aluminum and rear steel - Glad I waited for the purchase I was lucky when I picked up my 3500. It had 4.10 and rear air bags. I also towed as heavy as 45k over thousands of miles. I picked up a Fifth wheel with air bags rated for 32k which made towing easy. But because I used factory tires that have E ratings, I had many blow outs over the years. So 22.5 tires with 14 ply would be a dream come true. I will probably pickup Solastic shackles/rubber springs for my rear

@@rayislan9392 I had a hard time finding pictures of what tires would look like on my truck if you go to Facebook and look up Dually wheels - American force wheels The profile picture is just a Mexican guy, he’s got a lot of pictures of all the different styles of tires you can run as well as pictures of trucks like ours with these tires and rims to get an idea of what it will look like, A lot of them are set up for hot shotting, and yeah it’s nice having peace of mind knowing I have 18 ply tires on my truck rated for 3 times the weight I’m ever gonna put on it. i’m glad I could help

Their mudflaps off of Trinity semi trailer, Think they’re based out of Boise Idaho, They’re nice cause they’re the soft rubber not the hard brittle plastic mudflaps

4 1/2 inches in the front 2 inches in the back i’ve seen it done on a truck that has a 2 1/2 in the front to level it out and it looks pretty good. A lot of hotshot owners will run these for a fuel economy and the load rating, with just a leveled truck. I’ve heard they will fit on a stock truck but I’ve only seen them on leveled or lifted trucks.

Hi, I have 255/70 r22.5 no lift kit and I don't have any problem with it , lift kit it's optional 👍

Depending what brand you go with some are held to a higher standard than others but I run mine at max psi for the best fuel economy so 130 psi and have no issues. I do have one wheel that is very unbalanced so I always run that one in the back though.

@GoForBroke. thanks. I have the exact same setup you have expect I went for balance rings. I'll try 130 Thanks very much for the info.

Mine is not a c&c I believe with those you need a 3 inch spacer but I’m not 100% sure

@Go For Broke ok mine is a dually as well so how much room u have from inner dually sidewall to leaf pack?

19.5 you have a wider range of tire size selection with 22.5’s smallest you’re gonna be able to go is 37 which works out perfect if you have 4.10 gears. And they do look super slick

With the tread as spaced out and deep with no bridging of the tread blocks, They perform very well. although the rubber compound is harder than your average mud tire, they have a lot more traction in rain and snow than the OEM tires I had on it. Before when I hit big puddles or it was raining really hard I could feel my front end pushing around when I hit large areas of standing water, but with these tires you can really tell that they’ve got good contact with the ground even in the ice they did pretty well. Obviously if you have them aired up to 130 psi they skate around a little more on the snow. But drop them down to 65 and you basically have the same traction you have on any other mud tire. Now if you were to get a commercial tire that was fully bridged like a steer tire or the outer tread blocks are bridged together you may run into hydroplaning issues due to the water not being able to escape the tread blocks. But these tires tend to last longer due to the stability the tread blocks have being tied together.

I put them in a 3 inch piece of pipe, threaded on both ends with a Air chuck so I pressurized all of them and stick it under the backseat. I’d be nice if Dodge had a way to delete that function

Doesn’t increase the axle load bearing capacity. But it does increase the peace of mind knowing your tires will be the last thing to fail while pulling a trailer. Anyone that had a steer tire or one of your dual blow out while pulling knows how sketchy it can be. So when you put tires that are rated for three times the weight, your truck will ever be able to pull you know they shouldn’t give you any issues.

centramatic wheel balancers. that’s what they’re called. You can find a couple websites that sell them the more you spend the better quality you’re gonna get although they are a little spending in the first place.

I’ve got about 40,000 miles on the set up now. No issues tires are still more than half-life toes like a dream with 410 gears 373 and you’d probably drop off on fuel mileage.

This is mostly going to be a looks/aesthetics modification because putting big ass semi-truck wheels and tires on your 1-ton is not going to do anything good from a technical or performance standpoint, aside from lasting forever as you mentioned.

I’ve never had good luck with them. There might be an adapter kit somewhere out there, but I just threw all of mine in a 4 inch piece of pipe with caps on each end and a air chuck. Air up to 90 psi so I don’t get the consul freaking out at me. And put the pipe in those hidden compartments under the back floor mat

There’s a guy on KZfaq that does a review of a 10 lug Ford and what he had to do to get his wheels and tires to fit I believe you have to go with a 2 inch spacer in order to clear the studs unless you get either a cut out rim or have your studs cut shorter. But if it’s a cabin chassis you might run into issues of the rear tires hitting the frame.

I have a 2019 ram 5500. They actually make a bolt on 22.5 10 on 225 mm (small 10) rim. That's what I went with so I don't need adapters

I’m sure there’s a way to make them work, what I ended up doing since there’s not a way to diss activate the TPMS light is put all six sensors in a 3 inch threaded pipe put caps on each end and an air chuck on it and I air the piece of pipe up to 90 psi and then put it in the hidden compartment under the back seat.

Actually a pretty smart hack much appreciated, are you running steel on the inside ? Getting the last little pieces together to do this myself.

@@hustletruckingllc i’m running all aluminum that way I can rotate them however I want but to save money you can do the innards as steel but realistically any semi truck tire shop is gonna have extra aluminum rims for like $160 laying around

What brand of tires did you end up going with?

It’s one of the smallest ones you can get for a 22.5 so I think that’s what they consider it. It look bitchin if I could fit some 11R on there

It sure does. I just bought a 2022 I everything’s the exact same except for this one has the small fender flares that come OEM on the Laramie versus my old one that didn’t so I’m getting 2 inch offset wheel adapters instead of 1.5 in the front so that the tires stick out quarter inch in the rear I’m still running the 1.5 inch.

No, it has the stock 4.10

You are correct it’s the Ford and ram that use 8x200

You’re not right but you’re not wrong, damn good truck but I am waiting on the recall to be completed on my high injection fuel pump lol

@@GoForBroke. its called an injection pump. The CP4 is garbage. But so is the electrical in the new vehicles and the iron graphite block is weaker. Then there is the major failure rates of the hydraulic lifters. The VGT turbos are also junk. How do I known this? I'm a mechanic. My 5.9 has 530000kms on it and has more life left in it than any brand new truck.

They’re having a lot of EGR problems and lifting the heads

@@vinniegillotti9347 all of the 6.7 Cummins have head gasket issues primarily due to the restrictive VGT. As well as the additional coolant ports in the head due to EGR increasing operating temps. All emissions stuff is crap. Hence why the warranty is half for emissions what it is for the engine. Yet the engine won't operate without it.

@@kyles234 You really have to be a glutton for punishment to own any newer emissions diesel truck no matter what the badge is on the grill or who made the motor because they all more or less have a lot of problems stemming from the emissions systems. And guys using them as glorified commuter/grocery getters 99% of the time really should have just bought a gas job.